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The easiest way to teach advanced tricks is to clicker train your dog. The idea is that the clicker tells your dog that he is on the right track in learning a skill. It means you can be a distance away from your dog and reward exactly the behaviour you want in a very precise way.
You can click a slight eye movement in your dog for example. There is no ambiguity in what your dog is being rewarded for. Clickers allow you to shape behaviour, which essentially means encouraging and rewarding closer and closer approximations to the behaviour you want. The clicker should always be paired with a treat, your dog needs to know that whenever you "click" he will get a treat.
You can buy special dog training clickers, or use anything that makes a consistent noise. To pair the clicker and the reward simply click, wait 1 second, then give your dog a treat. Repeat this around 10 times until your dog understands that a click means he gets a treat. Now you are ready to use clicker training for some advanced skills.
Rewards A reward is usually a treat, but can also be play or praise. Treats are often used to really motivate dogs and are quick and easy to administer. You can use any treat you like, but try to stay away from those with lots of salt, fat and preservatives. That said, some dogs are not that food motivated, so it can be difficult to find what they like.
Sometimes very small cubes of cheese will work, though in large quantities they can give a dog an upset stomach due to lactose intolerance. Small pieces of BBQ chicken also work for those fussy toy breeds. It also helps to train when your dog is hungry, so do a short 10 minute session before breakfast or dinner.
MYTHS ABOUT CLICKER DOG TRAINING
Clicker training is aversive FALSE. Clicker training uses positive reinforcement to mark a behavior with a distinctive sound and tell the dog that you like what he did. A reward always follows the click and there is no punishment involved!
The clicker is used to get dog's attention or to tell him to do something FALSE. The click should come at the time your dog performs a desired behavior, not beforehand. A click will get your dog's attention because he is expecting a treat when he hears the click, but you will be rewarding what ever it was that he was doing when you clicked, which may not be something you want to reinforce!.
I will have to carry a clicker for the rest of my dog's life FALSE. The clicker is used primarily when teaching a new behavior. Once your dog knows the behavior, you do not need to continue to click and reward every time. You can always reinforce a learned behavior with praise!
My dog will learn to work only for treats FALSE. Clicker training actually makes it easier to fade treats from the training process. Dogs learn faster with the precision of the clicker so luring with treats can be eliminated sooner. Additionally, the clicker acts as a bridge between the behavior and the reward, so you can mark the behavior at the precise moment the dog performs it and deliver the reward several seconds later. You don't need to have treats on your person – they can even be in another room!
I can not handle the clicker, the leash, and the treats at once TRUE and FALSE. It can be challenging to juggle all those things since you only have two hands, but with a little practice anyone can do it. If you need a treat for luring the behavior, the leash and clicker can be held in one hand and the treat in the other. Once you have moved from the luring stage to reward - where the treat is presented AFTER the behavior is performed, you don't need treats in your hand at all - they can be in a bait bag, pocket, or on a table somewhere nearby.
My dog is scared of the clicker CAN BE TRUE, BUT IS EASILY CORRECTED. Some sound sensitive dogs can be startled by the sound of the clicker at first. You can prevent or correct this by purchasing a gentle clicker with a softer sound and introducing the clicker some distance away from the dog. Once your dog realizes a click means a treat is coming, they will get over any nervousness about it. Be sure to never click near your dog's ears as that can hurt!
My dog is too old for clicker training FALSE. No dog is too old to learn and clicker training is one of the best methods to teach new things or eliminate undesirable behaviors at any age or or with any breed. Dogs love clicker training and will try all kinds of stuff to get you to click and reward them.
Working dogs have long been important in the handling of livestock throughout the world. Today there also is an increased interest on the part of individuals who are not a part of the livestock industry but are interested in working with their dogs and helping preserve the abilities of the breeds. Competitive trials have been increasing in number and variety. Stockdogs must cooperate with the handler, yet use their own initiative and judgment. There is little that is more thrilling than watching the special partnership between a man and a dog in the field. Making the most of interspecies communication, these teams epitomize a working relationship that has fostered livestock farming for hundreds of years. Without herding dogs, there would have been no British or Australian wool industry and farmers throughout the Old World would have been hard put to get sheep and cattle to pasture and market. Livestock farming is a hard life today, but not so hard as it was a century and more ago when dog breeds developed to help husband the herds and flocks that sustained families and began an agricultural revolution by bringing meat, milk, cheese, leather, and wool to market. Herding breeds were born in the countries now known as England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Germany, France, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, The Netherlands, Hungary, Italy, Poland, Australia, and Israel. The US is home to two herding breeds, and the native people in Siberia and the western Arctic contributed two reindeer herders. As with hunting dogs, herding and driving dogs developed in each region had their own sets of skills. Some were specialists at gathering sheep in rolling terrain. Some drove livestock to market down country lanes and through village streets. Two drove and herded reindeer. Some worked cattle, some kept to sheep, and some did both. And a few breeds developed to guard as well as drive and herd.
They must be able to work with gentleness, yet show strength in facing up to a stubborn animal. One of the best things about training sheepdogs is witnessing that magic moment when the dog realises what it's all about. Some dogs are very hard to train, others seem to take to it naturally, but it's the moment when "the light comes on" for a difficult dog that gives me a real buzz. Start out on the right paw with your new farm dog, and begin training on the farm early.
Training a young herding dog is an exciting and nerve-racking experience. It's hard to believe that such a clumsy, comical little pup will ever become a useful partner in your livestock operation.
But when you see that young dog transform into an intense, quivering bundle of concentration as it turns on to stock for the first time, I guarantee your heart will leap. There is absolutely nothing like the power of a herding dog's natural instinct to work. That's why it's heartbreaking when your pup doesn't turn out the way you hoped. If you don't start its training right, that dog could become a liability.
Keeping a Watchful Eye First, keep your puppy away from dangerous or counterproductive situations. Avoid any contact between your young dog and livestock unless it's under your supervision. It's fine to get a pup used to being around your animals while you are doing chores, as long as you can keep it safe and out of trouble. It's too easy for the dog to escape and get at the stock if you are not attentive, and the result could be a disaster. Either the dog will get hurt and become fearful, or it will think it's OK to harass or injure your stock.
Dog Training Age Begin training your dog only when it is mature enough to withstand the physical and cognitive rigors of training - usually 10 to 12 months old, though it depends on the individual dog. If you are having problems early on, don't get mad at the dog. You may need to wait a few weeks until it is more mature.
Signaling Your Dog Before you start training on stock, have a solid recall on your dog. If you can't call it off when it's chasing your sheep through a fence toward the highway or hanging by its teeth from a calf's ear, you are in trouble. A young dog is so excited when it first starts working stock that it may not listen, but a stern command that it's been well-trained to obey will eventually get through to its crazed brain. Some people also train their dog to lie down on command - essential to stopping or calming the dog and livestock, before training begins, but asking it to lie down on the kitchen floor versus out in the pen with sheep racing by yields wildly different results.
Training Time When introducing your young dog to the farm, use calm livestock that are used to being worked by dogs. Four to 10 yearlings that are already "dog broke" are a good choice, because an older ewe or cow might challenge a young dog and make it fearful.
Many trainers use a round pen where the stock can't get wedged in a corner, or they block off the corners in a square pen with panels. Some people work in an open pasture with a mature dog on hand to bring the sheep back before the pup chases them into the next county. Wherever you decide to start, try to set up an area where you can have some control over both the dog and the stock. You may want to tie a long, thin rope to your dog's collar so you can walk it up to your stock in a controlled manner and guide it around the stock if it shows any sign of wanting to head right into the middle of them. Once you see that the dog will circle your stock, you can let it go and be able to snag the rope and catch him later if he is in trouble or about to collapse with exhaustion but doesn't want to quit.
Don't expect much from your dog in the beginning. Don't say anything - don't correct it. Use a calm, encouraging voice. Make it fun! You want to keep those early lessons stress-free and reinforce the pup's desire to work. Each dog matures and handles pressure at a different rate, so wait a few weeks to resume lessons if it shows fear or a lack of interest, is easily distracted, or chases the stock indiscriminately. If the young dog is eating sheep poop or taking a bathroom break, it probably means it's nervous. A dog that is ready for training should have enough instinct to circle the stock and respond to your body language. If you step in front of the dog as it circles clockwise, it should change direction and circle in the opposite direction. Using the dog's natural instinct to circle and react to the movement of both you and the stock is what all the early lessons are based on. It should be fun but productive. Dogs have a great way of signaling whether they are serious or not - if their tails are up, they are playing. If their tails are down, they are thinking. Once you see that tail go down, you will know the pup recognizes that it has a purpose for interacting with your livestock.
The pressures of training quickly exhaust a young dog. End your session if the dog shows signs of stress, fatigue or inattention. That's when it misbehaves and learns bad habits. Short, sweet lessons are the best for the dog's early training. Above all, be patient. Work on a single skill at a time, and have it solid before progressing to the next. If the dog isn't progressing the way you'd like, it's usually the fault of the trainer - not the dog!
Advanced Sheepdog Training It takes time and commitment to train a good stock dog. If you plan to train the dog yourself, be aware that it's easy to make major mistakes with a young dog. It could turn the dog off of herding forever. Do your research and educate yourself. If you are new to working with young dogs, get help from a respected trainer. You want to do the best for your dog. The joy of working in partnership with a good working stock dog and the invaluable assistance they will give you in managing livestock is well worth it.
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Albert Einstein once said, "if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid." When it comes to the discussion about dogs and their intelligence, this notion speaks volumes: dogs are bred to be good at certain things. For hunting dogs, this means they use their noses to track animals over miles and can even be taught how to not damage the kill in its mouth. Medical alert dogs can be trained to sense a seizure before it happens and to even retrieve medication for their owner. Guard dogs can be taught how to defend their home from intruders and protect the ones they love. Are any of these dogs smarter than the other? Maybe a better question is, what defines intelligence?
They say an intelligent dog has the mental capacity of a two-year-old human child. On some levels, this is impressive: children of that age know and understand many words and are capable of learning lessons, but can a toddler be taught how to herd a hundred sheep, or how to guide a blind person through a busy city street? Probably not. When it comes to determining the smartest dog breeds, many factors must be taken into consideration, including inherited traits, training, a dog's bond with his owner, and the different types of intelligence measured in our canine companions. This article will also discuss the top ten smartest breeds recognized by a dog behavior expert, dog IQ tests you can perform at home, and finally, whether you should consider getting a highly intelligent dog for your family.
Should I get a smart dog? Many prospective dog owners consider intelligence when shopping breeds of dogs for their family; some believe that smarter automatically means better, while others are convinced that potty training will be easier for a smart pup vs. a not so smart pooch. If you are in the market for a dog, however, you may want to reconsider getting a highly intelligent dog: dogs that rank high on the IQ scale often rank high on the misbehavior scale as well. A bulldog, for example, may be content to sleep on the couch all day and only begrudgingly goes for his daily walk. A Border Collie, on the other hand, would not fair well being left at home all day with no interaction and minimal exercise. Smart pooches that are not challenged (much like children) will often result to destructive behaviors and even deteriorate mentally if not given ample opportunity to exercise his body and mind.
When you are searching for a forever friend, the most important thing to consider is your family's lifestyle: how much time will you have to devote to Fido? Who will take him on daily walks? Do you have a large yard? If not, where will he get exercise? Also don't forget about the intelligent pup's mind: how will you make sure that his smarts are being put to good use (and not mischief)? Owners of smart dogs find that doggie puzzles work wonders, while others enroll their pup in a therapy dog course so he can be taken to hospitals and nursing homes to bring joy to the residents (and fulfillment to Fido). Others find their dogs excel at agility, tracking, lure coursing, and dock jumping.
Whether you have a pup that is the smartest dog on the block, or have a pooch that is more cute than clever, remember that the most important thing between a dog and his owner is love and care. At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter whether your dog has an IQ like Einstein or Frankenstein, but what really matters is the joy he brings into your life, so be sure to treat him like family no matter what.
Cultivate a desire to learn Tell your dog he is clever, smart, a genius. Get him so greedy for praise that he will work hard to learn what you want. You do this by putting your dog in a situation where you know he will perform a behavior on his own, then you ask for that behavior and praise extravagantly when he does it. A natural place to begin this is when you know your dog or puppy has to pee, after sleeping, eating, or being inside his crate. You take him to the right spot and give the command. When he inevitably obeys, you praise him until he is fully excited and pleased with himself. You have now cultivated in your dog the habit obedience and reward. With young animals and horses in particular, you will achieve superior results by asking very little in the beginning so your dog enjoys a high rate of success and minimal correction.
There are other rewards which can strongly motivate a dog. If you require your dog to perform a behavior before an event he strongly desires, he will more actively try to figure out what you want. An example is to have your dog bring you his leash before leaving for a walk or his dish before being fed (teach him to present it properly, sitting before you with the dish in his mouth-heavy dishes dropped on your feet can be rather painful). Make your dog feel needed. When he has learned to fetch, ask him for help when you drop something and cannot reach it easily, then be extremely grateful when he hands it to you. Teach him to put waste paper in the trash and then deliberately toss and miss so he can put it in for you. As always, shower him with gratitude so he will want to do it again.
Teach your dog English (or any language you prefer) While dogs cannot speak, they are capable of learning words and understanding and acting upon those words in different contexts. Our border collies average about 20 minutes time to learn a new word and one of them knew over 100 words before he was a year old. We start teaching our dogs from puppyhood, but it is never too late to begin. When you bring home that puppy, even if you considered yourself a sensible individual, it understandable to begin speaking funny words to it in high pitched voices (we are perfectly guilty of prattling). However, this is the ideal time for your dog to begin learning English as a second language and you will be so proud as you watch him develop. With better communication your dog will be able to learn tricks faster, help you around the house or farm, and much more. There are many ways to teach vocabulary. Here are a few tips. You will find increasingly more methods to teach your dog as his vocabulary and your understanding of his thinking grows.
Use repetition.When you begin to learn a new language, you do so by repeating words and phrases until they become familiar. Announce events and activities to your dog, using the same phrases such as "Let's go outside!", "Do you need to go paper?" or "Are you hungry?". We like to tell our dogs "I will be back soon." when we leave a room. This allows them to relax and wait instead of anxiously trying to follow. Say "Good morning!" and "Bedtime!" and announce meals.
Name the rooms of your house. Give your rooms names such as: My Room, Auntie's Room, Kitchen, Big Room. Announce the room when you are going to it with your dog. He will soon learn the names and run ahead. You will eventually be able to tell your dog "Take this note to John. He is in the Study".
Name objects. Name toys and any objects you want your dog to handle. Show your dog a toy and say "This is Stinky". You then touch the toy, shake it, encourage him to grab it while saying "Where is stinky?" When he grabs it, you shout "There is Stinky!" If he has learned to fetch, you then tell him "Bring me Stinky." Point at the toy or poke it if necessary to get him to pick it up, then praise him extravagantly. You will probably need to repeat this and any other new word or behavior for a few days before it is solid in his memory. The more object names he learns, the faster he will learn new ones. Eventually, your dog may hand you the remote control or join the the search for lost keys.
Name people. Give everyone in your house a name that your dog can easily recognize: Mummy, Auntie, Grandpa, Uncle George. Teach your dog the names by saying "Go to So-and-so" and have that person immediately call the dog. Make sure So-and-so is attentive or your dog will end up responding to "Call him!" as a command to go to the other person. Learning names is useful because your dog can learn to deliver notes and objects from one person to another and save you from shouting across a big house.
Break up commands into many parts. A command such as "Fetch" can be broken down into "Go get it", "Pick it up", "Bring it", and "Give" or "Drop it". You can then combine these words with others to form new behaviors.
Play hide and seek. Show your dog his favorite toy and then hide it and say "Where is Bunny?" Keep asking "Where is Bunny?" until he finds it. Try it with all his toys one at a time.
Show contrast. To understand a word, your dog also needs to understand what the word doesn't mean. To know what qualifies as "In the trash" he has to know that dropping a paper on the floor next to the trash won't do.
Start from the goal. When teaching a complex behavior, starting at step one may seem logical, but starting at step 10 will accomplish it faster. Make the objective clear immediately. If you want your dog to learn to close a door the objective is the door clicking shut. Start with the door only slightly ajar. When he can close it by pushing one inch, open it a little wider. (Complete steps for this trick will be provided in a separate article.) Teach him to drop things in the trash while he is standing with his mouth over the basket where he cannot miss then gradually increase the distance.
Tell your dog facts relevant to his daily life. Show your dog objects that are forbidden such as chocolate and tell him it is bad. He will learn to be wary of forbidden things. We also taught our dogs the word "Hot" by touching hot bowls of food ourselves and pulling our hands away yelling "Hot!" Then we let them sniff it closely to feel the heat. They now wait patiently when we tell them their food is still hot and move considerately around us when we say we have hot tea.
Music can make your dog smarter Music lessons have been proven to improve children's performance in school; it has the same effect on dogs. Learning to recognize songs and melodies is an effortless exercise that improves the memory. Dogs are attracted to the same elements of music that please children so we sing a lot of nursery songs to amuse our boys. Their faces light up when they hear a song they know and they bark along to certain songs. They are also fond of hand motions to act out songs which they memorize and bark along even if we do the motions without singing. Dogs are also capable of recognizing and enjoying classical music both live and recorded. Pat your dog in rhythm to a symphony and he may learn to tap his tail to music. Use songs to announce events regularly. "Happy Birthday!" can be sung as "Happy baff (bath) day to you!", "Here come the bride" can become "Here comes the food".
The lyrics of dog name You can also change the lyrics for your dog's name to please him. Ludwig is named after Beethoven and he likes to hear his nickname Luvie-Wuvie sung to the tune of Beethoven's 5th symphony or Eccosaise. For Wolfgang, named for Mozart, we changed the military march from the Marriage of Figaro to sing "Wolfie poo on the paper" and Cherubino's aria to have the words: Good dogs get treat! Bad dogs get beat! Good dogs get dinner Bad dogs get thinner
Is punishment ever appropriate? Punishment, which for the purpose here we will define as force or coercion, can range from verbal reprimand, to a painful jerk on a choke chain or pinch collar, to using an electronic shock. It's anything that the animal dislikes or wants to avoid and it decreases the behavior being punished. While punishment can be effective in some situations, it is generally a more advanced technique and can have many side effects. People tend to use punishment indiscriminately because it's the first thing that comes to their mind. That is, they use punishment because they are not proactive enough to reward good behavior and prevent rewards for bad behavior. As a veterinarian, my job is to recommend the techniques that are safest to both animal and human and that are effective. Consequently, I do not recommend punishment as general approach to training because other safer and equally or more effective techniques are available. When punishment is used, it should be used with full knowledge of the potential side effects so that they can be avoided or remedied if they do occur. Here are several considerations when deciding on whether punishment is appropriate.
In general, punishment should only be used after the handler has a strong history of reinforcing the good behavior so that the pet has an alternate appropriate behavior it knows to perform. Punishment should only be used as a way to buy time to reward the good behavior frequently enough so it becomes a habit. In general my recommendation is that if punishment is used, it should be used for one specific behavior and an alternate behavior should be rewarded 50x to every punishment.
Punishment can cause the other pets in the household to become anxious and fearful. Although the punishment may not be directed at them it may still scare them. Since it's not related to any behavior that they can control, meaning they have no way to predict when or prevent it from occurring, they are likely to become more anxious.
Punishment must be strong enough to get a clear reaction and so that the animal does not habituate to - adapt to or get used to the force used. The problem is that this can also cause injury to the animal if it's too high. And it can cause anxiety if the timing is not right or the owner doesn't consistently punish every single time the bad behavior occurs.
Generally negative punishment, removing the reward for bad behavior and positive reinforcement are easier to perform and more effective than using force - positive punishment. Both require the same timing, but as you will see, positive punishment may require more strength and more speed.
Punishment can cause animals to become more aggressive and aroused. For instance, animals are often scared when threatened with punishment and may become defensive when they can't flee. When animals are fearful of being hurt, they can run, freeze or fight. If running or freezing doesn't work, then they are more likely to fight.
Reward a Canine with a treat!
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If you wish attack dog training you should be aware that you will be clinically and economically responsible for any damage that he does to somebody when it assault them. Legal courts have revealed holders to be accountable for harms to the wounded party even if a thief or somebody goes onto your home and he attacks them.
Attack dog training comes with a huge duty. When you want to possess a correctly skilled attack dog, people look for a dog that has been taught by an expert who can show them the way to render instructions to him normally. It requires dogs with especially steady personality to be great attack dogs. Or else he may not be dependable and could cause damage. You can conform to the procedures below when you would still love attack dog training.
Employ an expert security dog instructor. This instructor will aid you show him fundamental behavior instructions. You need him under full control constantly. Dogs performing attack move are by no means in madness. They are operating under full control continually.
Your dog should be trained to be moderate to new person along with other pets. So, he should not be excessively welcoming or harmful to others. This needs him with soothe and constant character who is not effortlessly triggered. He should disregard other people and animals except if you render him the demand to communicate with them.
You will manage your dog's bite work dealing with the expert instructor. You can begin with a bite stick and various other items and graduate to dealing with an individual putting on a bite suit. Initially, he should be on leash for this training and you can change to carrying out off the leash. Show him to bite at the arms and legs of the suit. This is the most effective way to end a burglar.
Show your dog to react to one word instructions to assault and to stop the attack. You will require making use of the similar instruction always.
You and your dog can change to replicating attacks through using somebody putting on the bite suit. Exercise providing him the demand to attack and treat him when he attacks as commanded. Once he produces and prevents the attack as commanded, reward him and treat him. After he views you getting assaulted by the individual in the bite suit, proceed to training him to attack. Anytime he notices you in problem, he will have to discover that he is anticipated to protect you. He must figure out how to act upon his personal notion that you need assistance.
To begin with, you can teach him for attack work and aspire to accomplish great outcomes when you make use of the expert instructor to teach your dog and you own a dog that is a great prospect for security dog work. You will have to strive with him to accomplish dependable, constant outcomes. He could be damaging to you and to others when he has an unpredictable character. It is crucial that you look for an effective dog for training and to complete the training that you begin. Dealing with a great excellent instructor can create a huge distinction in the way he ends up as an attack dog perfectly.
The thing I discover regarding dog leash training is that there are no difficult and accelerated guidelines. Many take to a collar and leash effortlessly and a few do not. Various owners need to put them on a leash when they have them and many may not place them on a leash for a couple of months. An important function of launching a leash is persistence, peace, self-esteem, getting it gradually and utilizing means to get over whatever worries or issues from him.
Initially, you require a collar and a leash to have your dog strolling on a leash. Feels like an apparent move, however there are numerous various kinds available. To have your dog acquainted and used to a collar is the initial move. You will need to prevent issues and circumstances where your pup could get worried, afraid or even possess a mood tantrum. Simply connecting a collar as well as a leash can perform this.
Therefore, place the collar on anytime there are any other things that will inhabit his thinking and he has to consider. Connect the collar anytime your pup is heading out to be in the garden with you as well as in the house once you are getting him. Place it on tight, yet not quite close that it is awkward and annoying. Simply put, he should overlook it as you are obtaining his interest and socializing to bring his thinking off the putting on of the collar.
Place it on at mealtime or when you are starting many fundamental dog leash training. Speedily he will start to take the sense of the collar and leash and you can subsequently go on to the following phase. Something to watch out for is if he marks at the collar. Get his understanding and inspire him to merely conform to you or have him to fool around with a toy so he leaves the discomfort when he performs this.
Permit him run around pulling the leash once connecting the leash. Constantly, you should be managing this in order to prevent a potential tangling. Additionally, it assists to possess an additional dog around to take part in play while the leash is on. Have fun with him or proceed through many enjoyable dog leash training regimen when you own no other dog. Sometimes collect the leash and call him to you anytime he is performing this and appears secure. Perform it lightly and inspire him to appear to you. Once again, goodies are awesome; however constantly ensure they are not huge goodies that he subsequently uses time eating.
Do not try to have him to stroll at heel yet when carrying the leash initially. Of course it is awesome when he performs that; however do not be lured to pull on the leash to have him to perform so if he does not. Try everything quietly and lightly. Occasionally, simply standing even or kneeling down while he discovers what is occurring is a great thought. Render him duration to work this all facts as to what the leash is and does. Allow him build self-esteem in you, then in the leash and himself. Also, you can utilize a treat kept in your hand down with you at his head degree to have him walking together with you on the leash, and then sometimes make him stop and sit for the treat.
Many dogs can sit and determine never to step. For a lot of pups with issues, plus those without them, the collar and leash can be a slight limiting and can make challenge in your dog. Many may walk together with you and not leave you off leash; however they act in a different way anytime they have a leash on.
Spend some time and be chronic in what you perform to accomplish the outcomes you need. Eventually, the little actions get the huge ones you look for even when the outcomes are simply a little move in the direction of what you want to accomplish. You will discover your dog recognizing the leash speedily and ultimately he will start to walk well on it too.
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There are so many dog treats on the market it can sometimes be difficult to decide what are the best dog treats for training. As with food we put into our own bodies, over the last few decades people have become increasingly aware of the health and nutritional contents of what we give our dogs. There are still many dog treats on the market that are full of salt and additives that are bad for your dog. Below is a list of important factors to consider when selecting a dog training treat.
1. Size One of the important factors in choosing a training treat is the size of the treat itself. During any given training session your dog could easily consume in excess of twenty treats. As many breeds have a tendency to put on excess weight, you should be wary of the size treat you are giving your dog each time. Remember the size of the treat itself is not what matters to your dog, it is simply the reward of getting a treat at all. As a dog trainer, I recommend that the treat be no bigger than the size pea, and possibly even smaller for small breed dogs. You can either choose a treat that is small enough as is, or you can break a larger treat into smaller pieces.
2. Consistency There are two main choices in a dog training treat; moist/soft treats vs. hard biscuit type treats. Moist treats are easier to break into pieces. In addition, some small breed dogs and puppies find it easier to chew a soft treat. It is important that the consistency of the treat does not cause your dog to need to do excessive chewing, which then takes time out of your training sessions. Moist treats also tend to be the most flavorful.
3. Ingredients It is important to check the nutritional information listed on the back of any dog training treat you choose. Treats that are made with no additives, preservatives, artificial colors or flavors are always the best choice. These added ingredients are not good for your dog's health, and can cause stomach upset. You also want to be mindful of the salt content. Salt is not good for dogs, and many commercial treats you find in the grocery store have a lot of salt added. You should also avoid treats that contain corn. This is typically used as "filler" in dog foods, and it is not particularly healthy for your dog.
4. Flavors Most training treats come in a variety of flavors. Which you choose makes little difference, as long as your dog really likes them.
5. High Value Treats When a dog trainer refers to something as a "high value treat", they mean something that is very special that your dog does not usually get. Regular training treats do not normally fall into this category as these are things you might frequently give your dog. If there is a training or behavioral issue that you are really struggling with, it is a good idea to use a "high value treat" to really motivate your dog. I would typically recommend, small pieces of chicken, meat or sausage, cheese or peanut butter. It is important to choose good quality food. If you would not put a particular brand in your own body, you should also not give it to your dog!
6. Treats for Dogs with Skin or Stomach issues Even if your dog suffers from skin or stomach problems, there are good quality training treats on the market. Choose a treat that is grain free, and is made from pumpkin or sweet potato. These ingredients are very gentle on the stomach, and have nothing in them that should irritate the skin. You could also choose a salmon based dog treat for dogs with skin issues.
7. Portability Another important factor to keep in mind when choosing a training treat is how easy it will be for you to carry around. Owners are often taking treats with them on walks, outings, or to the park, and so the treats should be an appropriate size and shape so you can put that treat in a treat pouch or simply in your pocket. Timing is everything when rewarding your, and if you are struggling to get the treat out and break it into an appropriate size, you may very well miss the moment and your dog will think they are being rewarded for something else.
8. Packaging Although you can always store open treats in a zip lock bag or airtight container, choosing a treat that comes in a bag with its own zip close top is always easiest! Moist treats tend to get hard very quickly when exposed to the air.
There are many good quality treats available on the Market. If you make sure to check the ingredients, the size and texture, and use the above as a general guide, it should be simple to find a treat that is healthy, flavorful and within you budget.
Even though we love our pets, their behavior sometimes needs improvement. It's never their objective to annoy! it's just that they haven't yet learned (or have forgotten) the proper way to act. If you believe your pet could benefit from etiquette lessons, know that it's not difficult to teach a dog or cat to behave better. To make the most of your relationship with your pet, teach good habits using:
Practice Once you decide on a behavior to focus on, give your pet plenty of opportunities to practice it. Try it at different times of day, in different situations, even in different locations around the house.
Praise Animals love to be adored and told how good they are. When yours masters a new habit, praise him or her in an enthusiastic voice. Use the pet's name and say how wonderful they are. Pat them on the head or scratch your pupil behind the ears as you praise.
Rewards Who doesn't like a cookie (even if it's in the form of a dried fish morsel, for a cat)? Accompany your praise with a treat. Even a small piece communicates how proud you are.
Important Habits to Learn ComeThe best time to teach a cat is before mealtime. Call her name right before you reach for the kibble or can opener. With repetition, she'll start to believe that hearing her name means to make a beeline for you. Away from the kitchen, call her name and have a reward like a sliver of tuna or chicken. Repeat. Similarly, with a dog you can use food and practice, praise and reward.
Go - When placed in a clean litter box, most cats figure out what to do. With a kitten, gently take her paw and use it to scrape the litter. If instinct doesn't take over, keep her in a confined space with the box until she uses it. Clean and repeat. With dogs, it's all about timing and crate training helps, too. And remember to praise and reward good behavior with enthusiasm.
Be a Good Traveler - Whether you need to take your pet to the veterinarian down the street, or on a trip around the world, good behavior can make travel less stressful for everyone. To keep your pet and others safe, make sure that you have an appropriate restraint or carrier for your pet. Make test runs to get your pet accustomed to leaving the house. On a trip, allow time to stop and provide water and a bathroom break.
Leave It - Pets are naturally curious, and dogs in particular are scavengers. To convince yours to give up something he finds that's toxic or potentially dangerous, teach him that the "Leave it" command is always followed by a tastier reward.
Don't Pull - Walking even a small dog can pull you off balance, so it's important to control your pet rather than the other way around. With the dog on your left, walk quickly, talking to the dog as you go. Stop, treat, and go and make every walk a training session until your dog consistently keeps pace with you.
Getting daily exercise - Your dog adores getting outside for a nice long stroll, and so should you. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends 150 minutes of moderate-intensity aerobic activity (like brisk walking) every week for adults ages 18 to 64, and for adults 65 plus with no limiting health conditions. "If you can walk two miles in 30 minutes, that's a pretty good pace," says Raul Seballos, vice chair of preventive medicine at the Cleveland Clinic. The best way to mimic your pup? Bring her with you when you walk. That's because dog walkers are 34 percent more likely to meet federal benchmarks for physical activity, a recent study found. If you'd rather swim, bike, or hit the gym, go for it, Just do something you enjoy.
Having meals reliably prepared and served. - When you feed your dog, you serve him using his special bowl, the same amount, every day. When you dine, you should control your own portions, too. "The last thing you want to do is put big serving dishes out,". That's because you will likely keep eating (and overeating) from the dishes on the table just because they're there. A better solution? "Be aware of what you're eating and plan in advance,"
Some elementary obedience training causes dogs more pleasurable to be with and we are very mindful of that. It has some other, not so apparent obvious advantages - things a lot of us have no idea. Obedience training assists your dog view you as her chief, and in addition it provides her a psychological exercise. Someday, a few instructions can also rescue your dog's existence. Here you will find the fundamentals all dog should be aware. Here you will find how to have dog obedience training?
These 10 steps will take training simpler for you and your dog.
Fundamental instructions not just educate convenient expertise; they strengthen your character as your dog's chief. Among the simplest and most dog-helpful techniques is utilizing goodies to attract your dog in to the right place then to treat her for following.
Work out the fundamental dog training steps day to day for effective training. Hold training meeting brief. Your dog will witness each and every thing as a game, so hold him turned on by means of altering what he is aware. Exercise the instructions in a number of areas in order that he turns out to be familiar with reacting to you in a variety of circumstance. You can make use of the click method to assist with some other facets of your dog's training. Your dog will get the information speedily and react to love and benefits. Obedience training will assist in setting up a long lasting relationship around you and you will be taken care of with a pleased and very well taught dog.
When you soothe your dog anytime he whines, it may really create things more serious. It will take your dog believe he is being recognized for whimpering, and have him into the practice of repeating it for your love. You can assist your dog figure out how to stop crying through not heading out to him anytime he whines. Another dog training tips is through disregarding your dog, and just providing him interest and reward when he ends whimpering, he will discover that whimpering is not the option to secure your acceptance.
QUICK OBEDIENCE TRAINING
1. Remain consistent. Every time, utilize similar prompt for similar instruction.
2. Begin straightforward and slowly allow it to be more difficult. You want to go detailed and render your dog much exercise obtaining it well. Begin with an effortless instruction in a acquainted spot with no interruptions. Put space, timeframe, and disruptions when your dog is performing regularly. If you are wanting to put in another, hang around till your dog has perfected the present obstacle. Simply remove among the difficulties and attempt once more when she flubs it, heading out more gradually this time around..
3. Do not duplicate the instruction. It is not hard to do, however it shows your dog that she does not have to react quickly to the earliest demand.
4. As for attraction purposes to have your dog where you want her to go and benefits for following the demand, utilize food goodies. There are numerous techniques for teaching; however among the best is to utilize food treats. Consider providing communicative reward without having a snack, a preferred device, or a bodily incentive when your dog is not too keen in food.
5. Schedule it best. The reward and incentive must appear instantly as soon as the dog performs what you need when she is going to make the connection.
6. Make benefits erratic, next step them out. Through unstable incentives, dogs are more inspired. Hand out goodies just for the ideal reactions when your dog receives the concept of what you are requesting her to accomplish. Differ the kind, quantity, and regularity of the incentive subsequently. Ultimately, you can phase out the food benefits completely.
7. Ensure that it stays brief and nice. When it is enjoyable and you end earlier you becomes annoyed or discouraged, training will be best. Maintain the temper positive and have the periods brief.
8. Jumble individuals and locations. Apply having folks providing instructions in various settings when you want your dog to follow kids, wives, etc.
9. Hold your fun. Shouting, striking, or jacking your dog over through a chain won't show her the way sit or turn on demand. It will educate her that you are frightening and unstable, and that instruction is not enjoyable. Sensible, relaxed, constant training is the easiest way to get your dog to follow and value you.
10. Continue training. Do not anticipate that she will figure it out forever when your dog has learned things. She can shed her new expertise with no frequent training.
Forget the Sympathy! Our first reaction is to become very sympathetic to her whines and cries, but this type of reaction is likely to backfire. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do. What this does is validate her feelings.
Begin by observing your dog when he appears anxious! Teach a fantastic automatic down as well as a down on verbal cue. What happening around your dog when he is anxious? Are there loud noises nearby? Are family members arguing? Are you feeling worried or stressed? Is a storm approaching? If it's an obvious problem, place distance between your dog and the stress factor. For example, if your dog appears to stress in large crowds, calmly remove him from that situation and place him in a quiet place where he feels safe. Once you have an idea about what's making your dog anxious, you can better prepare for or avoid similar situations which might arise in the future. This brings me to my next point.
Use tough love! The development of serious anxiety issues in many of these dogs is preceded by an excessive attachment to one person. That person should be sure to adopt a policy of aloofness when returning home, and not praise or pet the dog excessively, especially if the dog is going wild with joy. Reserve attention for when he's calmed down, and he will start to get the message that your attention comes once he is settled, and not before.
The goal of treating separation anxiety is to reduce a dog's dependence on its owners. Ensure that your dog feels safe and comfortable when you are away from him. Provide plenty of fresh water and clean, warm bedding for your dog. Separation anxiety is also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior. It is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training. Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destruction of property, excessive barking, self-destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation.
There are many things that can be done through out the day during your day to day interactions with your dog that can help this process. Part of what contributes to a dog's intolerance of being alone or ignored is that the dog is constantly being petted for long periods. Instead, always have your dog sit before giving attention and then only give your dog 10 seconds of petting at a time. If he wants more, wait until he is not actively seeking it, have him sit again, and give another 10 seconds of petting. Have him earn attention by sitting. Ration attention out in small bits so as to not create an overly dependent dog.
Change Your Behavior ! Most of us have a routine we follow before we leave the house: shower, dress, put on a coat, grab keys, walk out the door. Once he has recognized your routine, your dog's anxiety may start building from the first step. This means his anxiety is not just beginning when you walk out the door. Instead, it starts when your alarm clock goes off or you turn on the shower, and by the time you leave the house he is in a full blown panic. To prevent this building anxiety, make some changes to your own behavior. Pay attention to the things you do before you leave the house, and begin doing them randomly throughout the day. For example, you can grab your keys and sit down to watch television, or put on your coat and feed your dog. Practice fire drills - go out, return, sit, play a game, go out. Vary the time you are gone.
Within a few weeks, your dog should no longer see these things as signs that you are about to walk out the door, and some of his anxiety should be eased. Do not respond when the dog demands attention. Ignore attention-seeking behaviors. Only give attention during times when the dog is not actively seeking attention, such as when lying down calmly.
Reduce the contrast: most separation-anxious dogs cannot tolerate the either or conditions of attention when the owner is home vs. no attention when the owner leaves. Reduce the contrast by picking two days out of week when you are home. Ignore the dog for 6 to 8 hours on those days, matching the time you are away at work. Limit attention to only feeding or letting the dog out to potty during this time. The dog will learn: "what's the big deal when my owner is gone - even when he's home, he still sometimes ignores me."
Look At It From Your Dog's Perspective To your dog you are the most important thing in his world. Dogs are pack animals who are very sociable creatures and thrive on company for many reasons. Your dog would spend every bit of his life with you if he could. So it's only natural that when you go out, your dog experiences varying degrees of distress or anxiety. He becomes confused, doesn't know where you are going, why he can't be with you and if you will be coming back to him. When the two of you are separated all he wants is to be reunited with his pack, which is you.
THE FIGHTING TECHNIQUES
1. Start When They are Young Separation anxiety may be prevented while they are still a learning young puppy. If you have just adopted a puppy then you can encourage them to explore and entertain themselves with toys and treats for short periods of time. Try leaving the room for short intervals of 1 or 2 minutes leading to slightly longer intervals. Leave small treats to reinforce that your absence creates positive emotions. Eventually, the shock of being left alone as they age won't be as emotional.
2. Run Before You Leave For Work If you are not a morning person I can hear you moaning already, believe me I am not a morning person either. But after my dog ripped down every curtain and drape in my home and chewed up each corner of my kitchen table, I knew I had to do everything I could to calm him before I left. Dogs build up nervous energy that needs an outlet, if they don't find one they result to destructive behavior. Wake up 30 minutes before you leave for work, put your shoes on and run - not just a walk! your dog. If you are not into morning jogs then teach your dog to play fetch and let them sprint back and forth for 20 minutes, getting all that pent up energy out. By the time you leave for work your dog will be ready to go back to sleep. After doing this for a few months you will actually begin to love your new morning routine, I promise. The morning fresh air is better than coffee. For extreme cases you may have to do this every time you leave - not just for work, but your dog will become accustomed to the routine of playing, and then napping when you leave.
3. Have a Consistent Routine Dogs with a routine behave better. They have an amazing sense of time, and once they settle into a routine of play and exercise, they generally just nap during the rest of the day. Simply by walking, feeding, playing, and sleeping at generally the same time each day, your dog will get into a rhythm and feel more relaxed.
4. Find a Dog Walker or Sitter An afternoon visit may be just the thing your dog needs, and another part of their daily routine they can look forward to. Again, dogs love routine, so having a dog walker arrive roughly around the same time can keep them at ease. Alternatively you can leave your dog with a trusted sitter. When looking for a dog walking service do a little research, and make sure they are well trained for the job and insured.
5. Take Your Dog to Daycare Some dogs take well to daycare, others not so much. You will have to analyze your dog's behavior in populated environments and dog parks. Also, stay in contact with your daycare to get updates on how well your dog is responding. Daycares can be great for your dog's social development, not to mention a great way for them to run and play. I understand that Daycare every day of the week may be out of your price range, however some day cares will give you deals for booking an entire month in advance, or reduced day-rates. But if that's not an option try just picking at least one day a week and see if there's any improvement.
6. Use Puzzles and Interactive Toys to Keep Them Busy One of the favorite methods is to fill up a toy with your dog's favorite treats. My personal favorite is securely pushing in Lamb lung into a Kong. There are several other "puzzle" toys available to keep your dog occupied. You can also create a scavenger hunt around your home, hiding treats for them to discover. Or you can simply leave a bone, raw hide, or other chewable treat. For obvious reasons, don't use treats that can stain furniture or leave a mess. And of course do not save money on your furball, with buying ON SALE AMAZON-EBAY-WHATEVER chinese happy 1-day dog toy. Some toys and chews present a choking hazard, and bones can damage teeth. Don't leave your dog alone with these items until you have monitored their chewing behavior. You won't be home in case of emergencies, so be aware of any possible dangers.
7. Mental Stimulation is Just as Important as Physical Walking your dog every day is great, but it may become mundane. Dog's love routine, but they crave new challenges, new experiences, and to visit new places. If your dog is suddenly acting out, and walks just are not doing it anymore, maybe it's because you have walked the same path for several weeks and haven't challenged them to something new. Switch it up and explore new places, Training is a great way to stimulate that brain, and you may find your dog is exhausted just from learning new tricks, Puzzles and toys are another way to challenge your dogs mind, or simply hiding treats to create a scavenger hunt around your home!
8. Don't Make a Big Deal of Leaving and Coming Home You know the routine, you walk through the front door after a hard day of work and are greeted with excitement and kisses. Who doesn't love that? ;-) Unfortunately, you may be feeding into their sense of anxiety. Show them that leaving and coming home isn't a big deal and doesn't need to be celebrated. From now on when you get home completely ignore them until they are totally calm. Over time they will understand that they will get rewarded with attention for being calm, and ignored while overly excited. The same goes for leaving your home: ignore your dog 30 minutes prior to departing. Make a rule with everyone in the house that there's no touching or eye contact before leaving or coming home. What about guests who don't know those rules? Put a sign on your front door that reads something like this:
GUESTS: We have dogs in training, and have a NO TOUCH rule. Please, do not pet dogs until they are calm.
9. Reward Them for Being Calm, Ignore Them When Overly Excited As a follow up to the previous rule, you can apply this technique through the day as well. This is a simple training technique, but one that requires discipline from the owner more than the dog. Simply put, if your dog is bouncing off the walls, ignore them. When they are calm and acting in a way you prefer, then reward them with gentle pets, treats, and attention. If they suddenly begin to get too excited from your attention then go back to ignoring them. Even negative attention is still attention, so when your dog is overly excited and misbehaving - yelling and getting frustrated is still giving them what they want. This is where your patience will truly be tested but overtime you will be rewarded with a calm dog.
10. Desensitize Your Dog to Your "Leaving Routine" - Your dog is very receptive to triggers, try this: grab your car keys and put on your shoes. Does your dog immediately jump to attention and begin to monitor your every action. They recognize your routine for leaving, just little sound and movements, like the sound of your keys can trigger them into a learned response of excitement or anxiety. Because you go through the exact same routine every morning your dog has picked up on your cue's they know you are about to leave. If you desensitize them to those daily triggers it will certainly reduce the separation anxiety felt when you leave.
Wait for the dog to completely calm down, and go through the entire process again. And again. And again. You may have to do this dozens of times, leaving slightly longer each time. But each time you do it you are causing your dog to relearn their emotional triggers. Eventually, and it may take some time, your dog won't even respond to your leaving. Keep testing how long you can leave before they appear anxious when you return, then dial it back a bit and keep trying to expand on your away time. This can be a big training commitment, so even using this technique a few times each day for several weeks can help curb this negative behavior. Unlearning a bad habit takes time, I recommend doing this over a weekend or when you have a few days at home.
11. Crate Training and Creating a Comfortable "Safe-Space" Even if you are training an older dog, all dogs in the wild will naturally seek out a small and dark shelter, so crate training can create a very comfortable and safe environment for them. But it must be introduced the proper way or it will cause even more distress - we want a safe-space, not a prison. Crate training is not something you can implement over-night. It will take weeks of training before you can comfortably leave your dog alone in a crate without causing anxiety. Crate size is very important, it should have enough space for your dog to comfortably turn around, stand up, and lie down in any position. Start by keeping the crate in the room you spend the most time, leaving the door open. Use comfortable bedding or blankets, and always present treats, toys, and food in the crate. The idea is to get them to go in by themselves and enjoy their time there. Never force your dog into the crate, you must introduce it as a comfortable place, and continue to do so. Forcing them in will cause even more anxiety and distrust. That means when you leave for work you can't just shove them in. After your dog has begin to spend their own time in the crate, have them spend short periods of time in it with the door closed, while slowly increasing your time away.
Don't always leave the house while they are in their crate, or they will automatically associate the crate with you leaving. If your dog can comfortably spend 30 minutes in the crate with the door closed, you can now experiment by leaving the house for short periods of time. Again, do not make a big deal of leaving or coming home, just go through the routine without showing emotion. You may need to follow Rule #10 to desensitize them to your "leaving routine", or they will become anxious every time it comes time to enter their crate. Keep in mind some dogs respond very well to crates, and some typically free-roaming large breeds, do not respond well at all. Through personal experience.
13. Chewable only Kong! Make off-limits chew objects undesirable. To do this, you can use hair spray. First coat a Q-tip and have dog approach it. It will taste bad when he licks it. Then liberally spray the hair spray on couch cushions, wood molding and other places the dog chewed before. The spray's smell and taste will repel the dog.
14. Turn on the tube! (TV) Flip on HGTV if your dog is a demolition do-it-yourself type or ESPN if he is more of an Air Bud. The background sound reduces the amount of external noises that could disturb your dog.
15. Give your dog a bedroom! This worked amazingly well for many dogs! Instead of giving dog free reign of my entire home, or reducing his space to a kennel, I just used a spare bedroom that had nothing but his bed and his favorite toys. I introduced it as a safe space, left items of old clothing that smelled like me, and my dog would often sleep in there during the day even when I was home. If you have the space available this may work for you.
16. Smelly Owner The Smell Of Its Owner Can Ease A Dog's Separation Anxiety! According to the ASPCA, one way to ease mild separation anxiety in your pet is through something called counterconditioning. Counterconditioning teaches a dog to develop an association between being alone and something good, like getting a treat or a toy. Or, if fMRI brain scans are any indication, something that smells like you.
And finally... Track Progress with Journals Photos and Video tapes! A baseline for panting, pacing, urination or defecation, whining or barking, and digging & chewing, as well as their timing and intensity is needed to determine whether treatment is working. A video camera can be aimed at areas where elimination or destructiveness has occurred - recording 30 to 60 minutes will provide a reasonable idea of the dog's distress immediately after departure. Audiotaping may be enough if barking is the primary complaint. Video or audiotaping should be repeated as needed to monitor progress. A journal of the dog's behavior is also helpful and should include when relevant elimination behavior outdoors as well as when the owner leaves the house and returns.
Depression Structure: Grounding Dogs with separation anxiety need your help, and the first thing to do is to start having your dog do things respond to commands for everything he gets: food, attention, treats, play and walks all happen after he listens and responds to a command such as sit. This will calm him and help reassure him that you are leading the team. For complete guidelines click here.
Space Separation anxiety dogs are often "owner addicts." They want to be leaning, touching, sitting on, gazing up at or sitting their owners every moment. This needs to change. Get a dog bed. It doesn't have to be fancy - a folded blanket will do and give him all his petting and attention there. Treats are given there. Meals are given there. Make this the best seat in the house. Do not call him off of the bed to come to you, and leave him be when he is on it. This may be hard for you at first but things have to change, right?
Teach & Train Get the interaction you crave through training. Take a class, pick up a dog sport and find new ways to spend time with your dog, ways that don't involve you attending to his needy side. If you want him more confident, you need to build his confidence through daily, fun training sessions. Developing shared communication between the two of you is a gift only you can give your dog.
Teach your dogs as many commands as possible. Your pet should be able to "sit", "relax" & "stay" on command while you stroke and reassure him. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to join a group obedience class. Each member of your household should participate in a take charge way because it is impossible to have happy, well-adjusted family pet if family members are below it in the peck order. The point of this training is teaching anxious dogs to relax and give it confidence. Do the exercises in various rooms of the house and in the yard. Give out praise effusively and chew treats liberally.
Confinement Many dogs can learn to be contentedly crated, as long as you take the time to make the crate a pleasant spot. Crating an anxious dog can prevent mishaps and calm him. If he is clean in his crate, the crate can be as large as you want.
Slow Start Start slowly. Introduce crating with treats, feed him in the crate and then crate for short periods when you are home. If you only crate when you leave, that can create crate stress.
Exercise Physical Long walks, solo fetch games up slight hills and swimming are all good ways to give yoru dog a work out. Playing wrestle-mania with a friend's dog works some dogs up, leaving them more excited and active. How do you know when you have found the right routine? When your dog is calmer after the session than before.
Mental Side Mental exercise is just as important than physical, if not more. Games that build his self-control, focus and patience are key to him getting better when alone.
Sleep Alone Sleep alone. If you sleep with your dog in your bed - stop. Snuggle together in bed if you like but when it's time to sleep, have your dog sleep in her own bed.
Calm your Friend Our advice? Leave and greet your dog the way you leave and greet your parents or spous - calm and matter of fact is perfect. Avoid long, drawn out, emotional partings because those only make matters worse for your dog. A good rule? Act the way you want your dog to act, he will follow your lead.
At the other end of the spectrum, skip yelling. As frustrating as this problem is, if you yell at your dog when you come home you will increase his stress about your coming home, making the anxiety more intense. Prevention is key, not punishment. Lastly, keep your routine the same seven days a week. If you give your dog 100% attention on Sunday, expect an increase in separation issues on Monday. Do him a favor and make his life predictable. Apart from using tried and true strategies for breaking a dog's separation anxiety, there are a number of useful tips and tricks that can help your dog. These small changes and practices can make a world of difference!
What Not to Do !!! There are certain methods that definitely won't work: just ask the numerous pet experts and fellow pet parents. These practices are not only ineffective, they might make things worse - both for you and your pet.
Punishment Most dog trainers agree: it isn't effective for treating separation anxiety and can even make the situation worse!
Another Dog Getting your dog a companion is not a cure-all and might double your problems. Consult with a behaviorist or trainer before taking on responsibility for another dog.
Ignore the Dog! Do not pay attention to your dog when he follows you or your family around the house. Many attention seeking behaviors, including separation anxiety, can simply be corrected by ignoring them.
Yell or make a Fuss Negative attention is still attention- and the last thing you need to do is to make your dog believe that being destructive is what it takes to be in the spotlight.
Obedience training While formal training is typically always a good idea, your dog's separation anxiety might not be the result of disobedience or a lack of training.
Calming Yo-Yo Exercise The Calming Yo-Yo exercise is designed to teach a dog how to remain calm during short, controlled absences from its owner. This exercise is useful for dogs who suffer from very mild to severe cases of separation anxiety, or for dogs who just don't like their owners to leave the room. A professional diagnosis of canine separation anxiety is not necessary to begin this exercise, but if your dog has a strong reaction to this exercise, it would be wise to consult a competent veterinary behaviorist soon. The principles of the Calming Yo-Yo exercise are the same as for most realistic, sensible treatment protocols, which makes it easier to understand how those protocols work. The insights gained from this simple exercise make it less likely that serious errors will be made if or when more complex behavior modification procedures are attempted. What the exercise does is demonstrate to the dog that being calm is the quickest, most reliable way to bring an owner back. Being anxious, whining, barking, stamping paws, panting excessively, or straining at the restraint won't achieve the dog's goal.
Dogs know when you are thinking of leaving long before you do. Perhaps it is because you put on your shoes, pick up your purse or car keys or put on your dress clothes. If you can determine what the clues are that you give your dog, you can try to desensitize him to these clues by repeating them frequently but not leaving and by giving him a treat and praise when he behaves well. When you have made progress, make your departures quiet and quick. Try leaving through a back or side door. Departures should be quick and quiet. The Family should ignore the dog 20 minutes before you leave and 20 minutes after you get home.
If none of the dog separation anxiety tips work the first time, it doesn't mean they won't work the second time around. Experiment and try out different techniques until one of them proves to be a match. Anxious behavior is just behavior. It looks and sounds terrible, but it can't go on forever. Separation anxiety can be treated with the right method, and finding one is just a matter of trial and error. However, if your dog's separation anxiety disorder is extreme, seek professional help sooner rather than later!
Make it Fun ! Associate your family's departure with something wonderful, like a rare treat that he only gets at that time of day. Also, always ask your pup to sit before you interact with him. This sets up a predictable, structured relationship between you and your pup and helps him to understand how to get attention from you.
On a certain level, it's easy enough to ascertain whether the program is working. If you come home and the house is not ripped apart, the dog has not relieved himself on the floor, and neighbors are not talking to you about excessive barking - the 3 major complaints of separation anxiety, you can feel pretty confident that the plan you have put into place, perhaps with medication, is having a beneficial effect. But to be certain beyond the shadow of a doubt, go the extra mile: set up Skype or a webcam or Face Time to see what your dog is actually doing while you are away. The bottom line: yes, there is a great chance of success when it comes to taking separation anxiety out of the picture. Some dogs, in fact, can even stop using medication. But that doesn't mean the problem disappears. It can be reignited, so to speak, and owners should, if necessary, be prepared to go through the paces once again.
EXCESSIVE VOCALIZATION CASES If the dog barks to express his separation anxiety, add the following to your program:
Do not give the dog any attention for any type of vocalization, not even eye contact.
Reduce dog's visual access to things he will bark at.
Catch him in the act of barking. Say OFF! and use a startle technique, such as a loud clap, spraying water at the dog with a spray bottle, or creating an unpleasant, interruptive noise. After the dog has stopped barking, wait one to five minutes and begin to reward the dog's quiet behavior.
Randomly, notice when your dog is not vocalizing in any way. Pass near him, toss a treat and say "good quiet." The dog learns that he gets rewarded for quiet behavior and gets startled for noisy behavior. These discipline techniques are not to be used with great frequency, nor should they be relied on as the sole way to stop barking.
Set up tape recorder or video recorder to chart the time the barking occurs. Come home for lunch. When you give your separation-anxious dog attention, dole it out in 1 second increments.
SIT & STAY REMEDY Teaching the Sit-Stay and Down Stay: Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your dog is practicing the "sit-stay" or "down-stay" training exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal it to be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position and thereby teach your dog that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. To do this, you gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you are watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish your dog during these training sessions.
POWER ON THE LIGHTS! Have a light source. Dogs do best when they are in a room that is well-lit by natural sunlight as this can combat feelings of isolation when home alone, however it is always helpful to leave on a lamp or overhead light as well. Even if you normally return home well before the sun sets, if it happens to rain or even if a storm is close by and the sky becomes cloudy, this can make a house very dark. Dogs that have separation anxiety are often sensitive to light changes, each will have a tipping point. 70% light, 50%. Each dog will reach a point when they perceive the room to be dark and that can exasperate the feeling of isolation.
ROOM WITH VIEW Some dogs prefer to watch the world go by. If at all possible, supply her with a view. If she can see the world going by, that's the next best thing to being out and about in it. Dogs with Separation anxiety should not have the run of the house, but she should not be confined to a crate either. A good compromise is a small room or a section of a room partitioned off by an exercise pen. If a window is available, the dog will not feel quite so isolated. Watch your dog's reaction, though, as sometimes a window can cause even more anxiety.
WATCH DOG & PUPPY VIDEO !!! Training is vital! Training is also vitally important for blind dogs. Instead of just "heel," "sit," and "stay," you need to add commands such as "step up," "step down," "slow down," and "stop." Self-preservation helps the dogs pick up on those new commands, but you have to work at it, too.
Blind dogs can be trained, too, it just takes a little adjustment in your approach. Training a blind dog does not take any special skill or magic. Blind dogs are still dogs, and they are more than capable of learning.
Choose A Training Method So where do you start? Clicker training is a great method to use with a blind dog. The "click" makes a very short and concise noise that is easily distinguishable from anything else. Use the click to mark the exact moment that your dog does the right thing. Then follow this with a reward; most commonly a small, soft piece of food is given. The two easiest ways to teach a dog using a clicker are:
1. Luring: This is when you take a small, soft piece of food and use it to lure your dog into position. For instance, if you want to teach your dog to sit, take the treat and put it front of your dog's nose and then slowly move it up and over his head. As his head goes up to track the food, his rear end naturally hits the floor. When this happens, you want to "click," marking the exact moment your dog sits. You then immediately follow the click with the reward.
2. Capture: This is when you click and treat a dog for doing something on his own that you like. If you want to teach your dog to lie down, then click and treat the very moment he lays down on his own. If he continues to lie down, then click and treat a few more times while he remains down. With consistency, he will soon realize that lying down causes good things to happen. Soon, when you are around, he will begin to offer this behavior, hoping to get a click and a treat! With just a few adjustments you will find that training a blind dog is not really any different than working with any other dog. With patience and consistency, your dog will be learning all the things that you are willing to teach him.
BASIC TRAINING METHODS FOR YOUR BLIND DOG Obviously your dog that is suffering from blindness is going to be a poor candidate to train using hand signals. So you will want to teach your dog several verbal cues you can do this at home, however, if you are at all concerned or confused, you should enroll in a class or have private sessions with a trainer that has experience training blind dogs. You want to get this right as quickly as possible to reduce confusion for your dog. When using verbal cues, don't start adding them too soon when you are teaching a behaviour. Make sure the dog has performed it, usually using a food lure, at least 3 times before. Next, don't talk too much: talk to your dog, but don't narrate the whole world to the dog, or repeat a cue over and over again.
Keep your verbal cues simple. Use single word cues such as sit, down, lay, etc. Keep your cues consistent. Dogs who can see our faces or body language rely heavily on what they see when learning verbal cues. Sometimes they never truly learn the word but are responding to our body language. Blind dogs do not have that advantage, so we need to help them out by keeping our cues simple and precisely the same each and every time and finally, Consider using a unique sound. Instead of using words or hand signals, you can also use novel sounds for each exercise you teach your dog. A shepherd's whistle, a whistle that you can make different tones and sounds with, would be great for using with a blind dog.
BLIND DOG CLICKER TRAINING Training your dog using a clicker or any other audible marker sound - tongue click, whistle etc, can help them distinguish when they have done the correct thing. The clicker in dog training is used as a precise marker - saying yes, that is exactly what I wanted you to do and is the bridge between capturing the correct behaviour and the reward. For example - teaching the dog to sit using a lure.
With the dog in a standing position, take a reward, and place it in front of their nose. Gradually raise the treat up and take it from their nose over the back of the head - most dogs will sit in order to follow the treat. The second their butt hits the ground, the trainer clicks, and then follows up with the reward. The click to the dog, will indicate "Yes that's exactly what they wanted me to do - great now I'm going to get a reward".
This training utilizes clicking sounds to inform dogs that what they've just done is good. All you have to do is carry a compact plastic box. As soon as you see your dog eliminating in the grass during an outdoor walk, for example, press the metal tongue on the box. Voila, your dog will hear a clicking sound. Right after you click the box, reward your pet with a tasty treat. He will eventually develop a positive association with the click. Once your dog is responding to the clicker, you are ready to start!
VERBAL CUES FOR BLIND DOG
1. Name Game: - This is a great way to teach a blind dog to orient to you. Start with 10 small, soft treats. Say your dog's name and give him a treat. Repeat 10 times. Do this a couple of times a day over a period of two or three days. You want to see your dog get visibly excited when he hears his name. Next, when your dog is not paying attention to you, say his name. As soon as his head turns around and he is facing your direction, click immediately and follow with a treat. Soon he will respond and come to you every time he hears his name.
2. Come: - I teach this the same exact way as I teach a dog to respond to his name in the Name Game above. Not only can you teach this using the word come, you can also teach it using a whistle sound as your cue. This way you also have an emergency recall as well.
3. Sit: - Using luring, follow the same steps as described above.
4. Down: - Have your dog sit. Then take a small, soft treat and put it in front of your dog's nose. Slowly move your hand with the treat straight down between your dog's front feet. Letting your dog smell or even lick at the treat, hold it there until he crouches into a down. Click and treat. You can also capture the down as described above.
TRAIN BLIND DOG BY SCENT You can teach your dog to follow a track or trail on the ground, to air scent and to identify scented objects. All three can be taught simultaneously because they employ similar scenting skills. To teach scenting a track, you need some treats and a grassy area, such as a baseball field or park. Although hot dogs are not the most nutritious food, I find they work best, and you won't over stuff your dog's belly. Begin early; many people start by 6 a.m. before anyone has walked on the grass.
Have your dog sit or lay down and stay. Take a couple of inch-long pieces of hot dog and use your shoe to mash them into the grass. Make sure to crush the grass under the hot dogs, which will release a grass scent. Then, with the hot dog residue on the bottom of your shoe, walk a straight line away from your dog. Every six or ten feet, drop a piece of hot dog. Stop after about 20 feet and drop one of your gloves or one of your dog's toys; your dog needs to find something at the end of the track. Drop another piece of hot dog on top of the item.
Go back to your dog and release him from his stay, encouraging him to smell the ground where the hot dogs were. Tell your dog "Find it!" and let him sniff. If he begins to follow the track, praise him quietly by saying, "Good dog!" and let him lead the way. Don't be too enthusiastic or you may distract the dog from his sniffing. Also, don't try to lead him; let your dog figure it out. At this point, your dog is following several scents: the trail of hot dogs, which helps motivate him, the crushed grass where you mashed the hot dogs and the crushed grass where you later stepped. Your dog is also following your individual scent, which he knows well because he smells your scent every day. But now your dog is learning to combine the scents, to follow them and to find the item at the end of the track.
When your dog successfully completes this trick, make another one by taking 10 steps to the side. If your dog is excited and having fun, you can do three or four short tracks per training session. As your dog improves over several sessions, make the track longer, add curves and corners, and drop several items along the way, but put the hot dog only on the one you want him to find. When making tracks longer or adding curves, use small pegs, stakes or flags to mark the track so you can tell if your dog is off track.
Air scenting requires your dog to find someone by sniffing the scents wafting through the air instead of following a track. Most search-and-rescue dogs have both skills. they can follow a track, but if people walking over the track spoil it, they can also use their air-scenting skills. You will need another person to help find a spot with room to run and places for a person to hide, such as a field with trees. Hold your dog while the other person shows him a treat or toy. The person should playfully tease the dog to get him excited and then run away from the dog for a short distance. The person should then hide behind bushes or tall grass. Wait a few seconds, letting your dog watch and think, and then let him go as you tell your dog, "Find him!'' When your dog finds the person, he or she should give your dog the treat or toy and praise him enthusiastically.
When your dog begins to understand the game, you can make him more difficult. Have the other person run into the wind once and then with the wind so your dog has to use his nose and think through the problem. The person can run a zigzag pattern away from the dog or change hiding places once out of the dog's sight. Increase the difficulty of the challenges gradually so your dog doesn't get discouraged.
When your dog becomes good at finding the other person, turn him away or cover his eyes so he can't watch the person run away. Then your dog really has to use his nose. Identifying scented objects can be taught much like tracking. Use a piece of hot dog to scent a particular object, such as a glove. Place the object on the floor or ground and send your dog to it. Praise your dog when he sniffs the object. Easy game, huh?
When your dog consistently goes to the object, scent it with a piece of hot dog and place it on the floor with several other different objects. But use tongs when placing the other objects so your scent is not on them. Send your dog, telling him "Find mine!" Don't say anything if he sniffs the wrong objects, but praise him when he finds the right one. Make training fun for your dog. Remember, you are trying to control a skill your dog has naturally. Use lots of praise, be enthusiastic and vary the training. If your dog has a good time, he will try harder and concentrate more.
HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DOG TO RUN WITH YOU This information proudly presented by WWW.AKC.ORG and Stephanie Gibeault
Running with your dog is a fun way to spend time together and helps keep both of you in tip-top shape. Plus, having a running buddy can be an important source of motivation. To train your dog to be the perfect running companion, check out the following tips.
The Right Breed and Age Before you start your training program, make sure your dog is suited to long-distance running. For example, brachycephalic dogs - those with short muzzles, like Bulldogs or Pugs, should only sprint for short distances. Also, be aware that running is not safe for puppies, as their bones are still growing. For most breeds, wait until the dog is about one and one half years old. Even within breeds, every dog has his own personality, and some will take to running more than others. Consider your dog's temperament, research his breed, and take him to the veterinarian for a physical checkup to ensure that this is a safe activity for him.
Walk Before You Run Your dog should master loose-leash walking before you start training him to run beside you. A canine companion that pulls on the leash is frustrating when walking, but downright dangerous at faster speeds. Remember that the environment is full of rewards, like squirrels and interesting smells. So, if you want your dog to stay near you, with the leash hanging in a J shape, you need to be equally rewarding. Use treats, toys, and praise to reinforce your dog for keeping the leash slack. Keeping your dog on one side of you will be essential when you start running together. If he runs in front of you or weaves from side to side, he can trip you or tangle your legs in the leash. It does not matter which side you choose, left or right, but pick one and stick with it. Start training at a walking pace and keep reward placement in mind. Always give your dog his treats in the position you want to reinforce, so if you want him on your left, only offer treats at your left leg. Once your dog has mastered one side, you can train the other with a different cue.
Speed Cues Now that your dog is politely walking at your side, it is time to speed things up. When you are out for a walk, it is handy to have a cue, such as "let's go," that tells your dog it is time to move on and get walking. A different cue, like "get running" or "move it," can be used to tell your dog it is time to pick up the pace. The more information you can give your dog about what you expect, the better he will be at responding appropriately. To teach the running cue, intersperse short bursts of jogging or running with your normal walking pace. Simply give the cue immediately before you increase your speed, and then reward your dog when he hurries to catch up. In the same way, you can teach a cue such as "whoa" to slow your dog down.
Building Endurance Now that your dog knows to stay at your side and match your pace, it is time to get his body in shape. Just as humans need to build strength and endurance slowly, so does your dog. Start by adding small stretches of running into your walks. Then, on each subsequent walk, gradually increase the portion of your time spent running and decrease the portion spent walking. After several weeks, your dog will have adapted to running long distances.
Extreme Weather Conditioning Dedicated runners will head out in rain, snow, or heat, but sometimes the weather outside is simply too cold or hot for your dog. Even though you can not run together, you can still maintain your dog's physical conditioning with indoor exercise. Depending on his size, a game of fetch down a long hall or up and down a flight of carpeted stairs can get your dog's heart pumping and work his muscles. You can also set up an obstacle course with things you have lying around the house like a hula hoop or a cardboard box. Many training facilities also offer indoor agility classes that will get your dog running and jumping. Many dogs can even be trained to use a treadmill. Some treadmills are specifically designed for dogs, but if you already have one of your own, that will work fine too. Just be sure the length of the ramp is long enough for the size of your dog. The bigger the dog, the bigger the treadmill he will need. Even though this is one of the easiest ways to give your dog an indoor workout, you can not just drop him on and go. Research treadmill training or speak to your dog trainer so you can teach your dog to enjoy the machine and use it safely. And never tie your dog to the treadmill or leave him on it unsupervised.
Tips for a Safe and Enjoyable Run Your dog is finally trained and conditioned to be your running companion. But to ensure that he is safe and enjoys running with you, keep the following tips in mind:
Warm up your dog before you run and cool him down when you are finished by walking for several minutes.
Be aware of weather conditions. Dogs can not handle heat and humidity as well as humans can.
Carry water on your walks and offer it to your dog regularly.
Give your dog frequent breaks, so he can recharge, go to the bathroom, and enjoy his surroundings.
Only allow your dog to run off-leash where it is safe and legal, and only if he has a reliable recall amid distractions.
Watch your dog for signs that he is had enough, such as excessive panting or lagging behind you. Dogs may run to please their owner, even when they want to stop.
There are many different types of classes available and activities that you can do with your dog but the first step should be finding a Kennel Club approved organisation. These will vary in types of classes and methods of training but all have to abide by the Kennel Club's codes of conduct. A training class is not there to train your dog. Its purpose is to teach you to train your dog so you will need to be committed to train your dog for short sessions (5 minutes) several times a day rather than just simply turn up for classes! This little bit of training everyday will be repaid with a lifetime of living with a well behaved dog. You will also learn to avoid problems before they begin as well as receive help to overcome any that you already have with your dog.
Before enrolling with a particular club contact them and ask if you can go to watch a class without your dog. This will help you decide if this is the right environment for you and your dog. Some clubs have waiting lists and you will need to book ahead, some accept people on a roll on roll off basis. Prices will vary from a joining fee and then weekly payments to a one off fee for a certain length of training.
What should I look for at a dog training club? Are you made welcome and are the trainers friendly and approachable?
Do the people and their dogs look as if they are enjoying the class?
Are the dogs focused on the task with their owner?
Are the instructors giving lots of encouragement and information? Are they helping the owners to correct problems that occur?
Are the instructors maintaining a safe, controlled environment?
Is everyone in the class receiving equal help as well as meeting the needs of the whole class?
Remember that a free for all group of puppies playing happily off the lead may seem attractive but can very quickly become out of hand and even frighten your puppy. The same applies to older dogs that certainly benefit from socialising and playing as a reward but only if they respond immediately to the owners command.
Before you make your decision ask the owners if they enjoy the classes!
DOG TRAINING OBEDIENCE AGILITY SCHOOLS AND COURSES This material proudly presented by WWW.DOGICA.COM
An additional benefit of dog skateboarding is that dogs who have a bad habit of chasing humans on skateboards learn to stop chasing the skaters and to start loving the skateboard itself.
We teach them how to stop viewing the skateboard as something alarming, as something to be chased. If you'd like to try your hand at teaching your dog to skateboard at home, make sure that you never try to force your dog onto the skateboard. Instead, patiently develop a real positive attitude toward the board through the use of positive praise and treats. Also, make sure to begin practicing on a rough surface, as opposed to a flat, slick one. A grassy backyard, for example, can be ideal as the skateboard won't too readily slip out from beneath your dog, and in case of a spill, the grass is nice and soft.
Consider your Dog's Breed,
Age, and Athletic Ability Before teaching your dog to hop on a skateboard, it is important that you assess a few things. First off, you should make sure that the trick is something that your dog is physically able to do. The Pit Bull has a very muscular back end, which makes him more sturdy on a board. But other dogs are tinier with funky knees. They could get hurt very easily and are not meant for that type of work. While any dog can technically learn how to skateboard, the fact is that certain breeds, like bulldogs, are better equipped for it than other breeds. Welsh Corgis, for instance, have legs that are too short to reach the ground from the board. It is also important that you check with your vet to make sure that your dog is in shape and healthy enough to handle a trick like skateboarding. And you definitely don't want to put a nervous dog on a board. If you have a dog that is really shy and does not want to approach new objects, do not force him. It's not worth ruining your relationship with the dog for a cool trick.
Get Your Dog Used
to the Skateboard Before teaching your dog to skateboard, you have to make sure that he actually likes the physical board. You should first introduce the skateboard to your dog and make sure that he is okay with being around it. Let the dog sniff it, walk around it, and give him lots of treats and lots of praise. Once he is used to the stationary board, begin to move the skateboard around a little bit in order to get the dog used to the fact that it's not a stationary object. Move the skateboard a little bit, give the dog treats when he pays attention and notices it.
Try a Stationary
Skateboard First For the next step, it is important that the skateboard does not move. Place it in the grass or on the carpet to stabilize it or lock the wheels. You want to get the dog to start getting onto the skateboard and you want it to stand still because if it moves while the dog is first learning to get on it, he might get scared and then never approach it again. You can also try getting a dog to hop onto one of those aerobic stackable steps at first because they are about the same height as a skateboard but they do not move. The idea is to have the dog get used to the muscle memory required to step up onto something. Stand behind the skateboard and have your hand over it with a dog treats by your pup's nose. Slowly guide your pup towards the skateboard until he steps on it. And then once your dog steps onto the board, praise him for being on it. Give him high-value treats - like hot dogs, cheese, or boiled chicken and ask him to stay. Then give your dog more treats for staying still. Avoid rushing through this process. You want to work at the dog's pace. You do not want to force him onto it and scare him. Depending on your dog, it might take five minutes, or it might take a couple of hours. Do it over a couple of days and take breaks.
Moving the Skateboard
With Your Dog Once your dog is fully comfortable with being on the skateboard, slowly start moving the skateboard a little bit. If he jumps off, it is fine. That's all part of the process. Repeat this step until you are eventually able to move the skateboard quite a bit and the dog is still on it..
Teach Your Dog
to Move the Skateboard For this next step - attach a leash or a rope to the board so that you have full control over it. You should never leave your dog's side while he's standing on the board. Once the dog is used to the motion of the board moving with him on top of it, have him put two paws on the skateboard and with your foot or hand, move the skateboard from side to side, just a little bit. The dog is going to have to learn how to move his weight so that way he is moving with the skateboard. Next, slowly increase how much you are moving the skateboard so that the dog's front paws are still on the skateboard, but now his back paws are having to push himself to move with the skateboard. From there, slowly increase the distance until the dog realizes - Oh. I can use my back paws to move the skateboard towards the treat. And if your dog is not food motivated - you can use a toy or attention.
GUIDE: TURN FIDO INTO
A SKATEBOARDING DOG
by Sophia Yin
Step 1: Luring The first stage of training this dog trick consists of teaching Fido to place two front feet on any object that you want. The benefit of this behavior is that you can also use it to teach other tricks such as shake paws, high five, wave, turn on the lights, or ring the bell. To start, you will need an object that is elevated several inches off the ground and wide enough so that your dog can't easily walk around it. Objects I have used for a 40-pound dog include a step-aerobics platform, an indo board, several coffee table books placed side by side, and a square, firm doggie bed. Next lure the dog with treats or kibble so that his front feet are on the object and then give him 5-10 more treats in a row. Then walk away so he gets off and follows you, or toss a treat on the floor so he has to move and repeat the procedure. Repeat this step until you are able to walk towards the object with him and he steps on without hesitation consistently-meaning 5-10 times in a row-with the food lure.
Step 2: Switch to Rewarding
the Desired Behavior Next, switch to rewarding the behavior instead of luring. Walk up to the object and see if he will step up on his own. If he does, say "yes" right as he does it in a distinct voice and give him a treat within 0.5 seconds. That is right. I said 0.5 seconds. Dogs learn best if the reward comes within a split second. That means you will have to whip your treat delivery hand out and get that treat right up to his face. If you are able to do this, then "yes" will come to inform Fido exactly what he is done right and that he is getting a treat within an instant. Again, follow with several additional treats. Then, walk away and repeat. Be sure to approach the object from different directions so that you know Fido's focusing on stepping up onto objects rather than just on stepping on one object from one specific approach.
Step 3: Generalizing to
a Few Other Objects When he can immediately step up 5-10 times in a row from different approaches, switch to a smaller object for him to step on. Try a coffee table book or a hard-cover binder. At this point you may realize he only knows to step on the objects you just trained. So you may need to go back to step 1 when you first start with a new object. Work on several different types of objects so that you know he is learning the concept of "step."
Step 4: Adding the Cue Word Once he is regularly stepping onto the object of interest, you can start teaching the cue word "step." Walk up to the object ahead of him and if you are sure he will follow and step on it, point to it first and say "step." It's important that you are sure he is going to step up and you say the word before he is performing the action. If you say the word and he does not perform the behavior, he will not make the connection between the word and the action.
Step 5: Practicing on
to Test Fido's Knowledge
of the Cue Now you can move to even smaller objects or objects that are tilted slightly. If the object is small, it's OK for him step with just one foot. Walk up to the next object, point to it and then stay "step." Once he is stepped, say "yes" and reward. Avoid staying "step" and pointing simultaneously in this step and the last step, too or he will tend to learn just the visual pointing cue and not the verbal cue since the visual one is more obvious. Repeat step 5 in rapid succession going between different objects. When he can step on different objects on cue without hesitation, then he actually knows what the visual or verbal cue means. This process is short. Most dogs can learn this dog trick within several sessions if they are hungry and motivated for what you have to earn. My dogs are used to working for their meals so I use their daily allotment of kibble as rewards when I want them to learn tricks such as this quickly.
Step 6: Turning this into the
Skateboard Dog Trick Now transfer this dog trick to stepping on a skateboard. Place the skateboard on a carpet or grass so it won't move and scare him. Point and say "step." Then reward him when he is standing with his two front feet. Repeat 5-10 x in rapid succession. Then start requiring he step on with 3 or 4 feet before you give the reward. Once he easily steps on onto the board, sometimes reward 2 feet on and sometimes 3-4. Next move the skateboard to a sidewalk so that it will move around and have him step on the skateboard. When he is more excited he will jump on with all four feet. It is important that he learn both 2 and 4 feet so that he can propel the board forward as well as riding on it. Practice this dog trick in 5-15 minutes sessions several times a day and in just several days your pooch will be a skateboarding pro.
AND VALUABLE TIPS
1. Don't start too young. Wait to train a dog until it is at least 6 months old. If you start too young, you will scare the dog.
2. Figure out your dog's passion. Every dog loves to do something and different breeds have different passions. It's your job as an owner to figure out what that passion is and build it into a tangible skill.
3. Practice in an enclosed, secluded spot. A safe practice area will not only keep the dog from running away but it will keep crowds from gathering, which can be distracting, not only for your dog, but for you as well.
4. Concentrate on simple and consistent communication. Say the same word every time your dog does well so that it is never confused about your message.
5. Introduce the skateboard slowly. Don't allow your dog to always play with the board or scooter. As soon as it becomes just a toy the dog will lose interest. It needs to remain special, and nothing is special if it is always around.
6. Use positive reinforcement. You advance in spurts, then you hit plateaus. But repetition and positive reinforcement will allow your dog to continue to improve.
7. Don't yell. Raising your voice will simply scare the dog. Instead, change your tone and your body language. "I don't ever scream". "Dude, seriously?!?" look and he understands.
8. The biggest reward should be the skateboard. Don't dilute that by giving your dog too many treats. I never once rewarded Tillman with treats. He just has a drive for the skateboard. He doesn't do it for treats.
9. Find a role model. Dogs are very observant and learn from watching other dogs. So the fastest way to teach them is to provide them with an example.
10. Dog balance improves with age. As a dog grows and develops, so does its balance. Most dogs stop growing at the age of 2, which will make them more comfortable on a skateboard or a scooter.
11. Don't skimp on equipment. Spend money on some good gear. It helps a lot. Big soft wheels and a big board will really help the dog feel comfortable!
12. Time equals results. The more time you spend with your dog, the more of a chance you have of your dog being better at whatever it is your training him to do.
13. Comfort Your Dog on The Board! Help your dog to be comfortable on the board - This step is critical and I recommend doing it slowly. Rushing it will slow down your eventual success. Start by reinforcing the dog for putting one paw and then two on the board while it is secured with a piece of wood or with your foot acting as a brake. If the board is adjustable, start with the board tightened so it can't rock back and forth.
14. Get your Dog Used to Movements Get your dog used to being on the board while it is moving, starting with just a few inches and then a little bit more at a time. Only allow the board to move slowly. Ideally, you should take advantage of opportunities to reinforce the dog for having all four paws on the skateboard and for letting it move with one paw hopping along behind.
15. Reinforce Positively Reinforce your dog for pushing the board with one or both back paws. These pushes are a critical piece of having a dog propel the skateboard for any distance rather than just passively riding a board you have set in motion.
16. Increase the Speed Gradually Gradually increase the speed and the distance that the dog covers before reinforcing him. Some dogs may not enjoy the increased speed or riding it for a longer period of time. Stay within your dog's comfort zone.
17. Loosen the Skateboard Loosen the skateboard in stages so that it rocks back and forth - necessary for steering and go through the entire process with the board at each one of these settings. You can then reinforce the dog for steering, which is accomplished by shifting his weight to one side or the other as he rides.
Always keep in mind what your dog can comfortably do so that you do not put him in a situation that is over his head. Stick to smooth surfaces, keep him away from roads and other dangers, and do not send him down a hill of any kind, no matter how mild, until he is ready. Just as in people, some dogs are athletic, fearless and adventurous enough that skateboarding comes fairly naturally to them. Other dogs may never reach true proficiency at it, but might enjoy doing it very slowly for brief periods. There are also dogs who are clearly not suited to this activity, and if that is the case for your dog, there is no need to even consider attempting to teach him to ride.
Historically, Dog surfing has been documented as occurring in the 1920s in California and Hawaii.
Dog surfing involves dogs that are trained to surf on surfboards or bodyboards, either alone or with a human on the board.
Some dogs have been trained to ride a skimboard on the shore (after the board is initially skimmed by a human) and to windsurf with a human, and bodysurfing dogs have also been documented in surfing media. Additionally, some dogs have been trained to ride on paddleboards with people.
In the 1930s, a silent film titled On The Waves in Waikiki depicts Phillip K. Auna and Night Hawk, his terrier, surfing together on a wooden surfboard in Hawaii. The terrier was able to perform the hang ten surfing maneuver on the surfboard.
In 1944, a full page image of a surfing dog named "Rusty" was published in National Geographic magazine.
In the 1950s, UPI published a photograph of Joseph "Scooter Boy" Kaopuiki and his dog Sandy surfing in Hawaii, which was published in newspapers throughout the United States. During this time, they were also reported about on the television show You Asked For It!.
Dave Chalmers and his surfing terrier mix named Max, both from San Diego, California, were featured in several forms of media in the late 1970s through the 1980s, including surf movies and a television appearance on the show Amazing Animals.
Don't be fooled! Surfing with your dog - "IS NOT AN EXTREME SPORT! IT'S JUST EXTREMELY FUN!!!"
Dog Parkour (pronounced par-coor) is a military (human) based training discipline which combines running, jogging, jumping, climbing, swinging, vaulting, and rolling to quickly, efficiently, and most of all safely, finish an urban obstacle course. The objective is to maintain as much momentum as possible without failing the obstacle or injuring one's self.
Parkour is a holistic training discipline using movement that developed from military obstacle course training. Practitioners aim to get from A to B in the most efficient way possible. This is done using only the human body and the surroundings for propulsion, with a focus on maintaining as much momentum as possible while still remaining safe. Parkour can include obstacle courses, running, climbing, swinging, vaulting, jumping, rolling, quadrupedal movement, and the like, depending on what movement is deemed most suitable for the given situation.
Parkour is an activity that can be practiced alone or with others. Although it can be practiced in any location, it is usually practiced in urban spaces. Parkour involves seeing one's environment in a new way, and imagining the potentialities for navigating it by movement around, across, through, over and under its features.
Developed in France, primarily by Raymond Belle, David Belle, and Sebastien Foucan during the late 1980s, Parkour became popular in the late 1990s and 2000s through films, documentaries, and advertisements featuring these practitioners and others.
Parkour is becoming a recognised sport with events, competitions, and official teams around the world, although this is controversial as many practitioners are philosophically opposed to competition.
Parkour has been adapted to dogs, and is rapidly growing in popularity; therefore, we decided to innovate and offer dog owners a chance to learn, teach, and practice this awesome activity.
Canine Urban Parkour is by far the best physical and mental stimulation one can offer their pet!
Canine Urban Agility Urban Agility is a method of exercising your dog using public structural components and park furniture. Training with your dog to sit, trot along or jump over obstacles found in the urban environment helps with improving the dog's agility and providing positive mental stimulation for the dog. When trained positively, the dog should gain greater confidence with navigating these obstacles. Conversely, a bad experience such as suffering a fall can possibly take away a dog's confidence and engender fear.
So, you wish your doggy to enjoy his warm & comfortable, brand - new and perfectly choosen doghouse? Unfortunately, that warm and fuzzy feeling quickly dissipates once it becomes apparent that your pet wants nothing to do with the dog house. What to do? This is a scenario that happens all too often with new dog houses. If it's any consolation, don't feel too bad because you are not alone.
However, for those of you who have just spent $400 on an insulated cedar dog house with a personalized door plate, this isn't really the answer you were looking for. Chances are your thinking runs more along the lines of: sometimes it's OK for dogs to be indoors but at other times, they love to be outdoors and should be outdoors, even for sleeping. After all, dogs and their wolf ancestors happily lived outdoors for thousands of years. Some Dogs Respond to Living in a Dog House Better than Others. Realize that some dogs are more inclined to use a dog house than others because of their upbringing. For example, dogs that were whelped and raised by their mom in a dog house are patterned to it from day one and are therefore quite comfortable with living in a dog house. To such dogs, their house is their home and it represents security and good times with mom. This isn't to say that a dog house-raised pet will readily adopt a new dog house but it will be a much easier task to get her to accept the new house compared to a pet who has never used a house. And there are some things you can do to make the new house more familiar to your pet.
There is also anecdotal evidence to support the belief that certain breeds take more naturally to a dog house than others. Many Lab owners are convinced that labs are people-oriented dogs that really want to be inside with their families, not outdoors in a dog house. Of course, the situation gets murky because the dog's upbringing is always part of the equation. Much of it depends on how the dog has been raised. Alright, onto some specific suggestions for getting the dog to like the dog house. Some of these ideas are just common sense but they still bear telling.
TIPS ON GETTING DOG TO LOVE DOGHOUSE
Don't make your pet feel like she's being banished to Siberia. - Perhaps the worst thing to do with a new dog house is to put it in a remote area of the yard that is away from the familiar smells, sights, and sounds to which your dog has become accustomed. At least initially, give some consideration to placing the dog house closer to the area where her human buddies are coming and going.
Timing is everything. - Choosing an appropriate time of the year to put your dog outside can also be important. If you've been keeping your beloved pet indoors and then suddenly expect him to happily accept being stuck outdoors by himself in the dead of winter, don't you think there might be a little push back? Dogs require time to build up a tolerance for heat or cold so you are asking for trouble if you attempt to abruptly change the ambient temperature of their living environment.
Give your dog time to adjust to the new house. - Keep your expectations realistic. If you have been keeping the dog indoors at night, don't expect it to readily accept sleeping outside in a strange enclosure. If the dog is already an outdoors dog but has never used a dog house, or has an existing dog house that you wish to replace, it will probably take some time and persuasion to get him to adopt the new house. Patience grasshopper, patience.
Make the house intro a positive experience. - When you first introduce your dog to the house, spend some quality time with him. Maybe sit next to the house for a couple hours with your dog. If the house is big enough, you could even crawl into it yourself. Yes, some owners have success with this technique! The dog will be intrigued by this funny looking new object that his master seems to like so much. Also try using treats and familiar objects to lure the dog inside the house. Introducing your pet to the doghouse while you are around helps to reassure her that all is well when she is put there and that she has not been banished from the house or otherwise exiled.
Place familiar objects in the house. - To make the new dog house feel like a home, place something that belongs to your dog in the house. You know, something that he likes. This can be a favorite toy, a well-worn bone, a blanket with the dog's scent, his food bowl, your expensive shoes that he chewed apart, that dog face door mat from Aunt Matilda. Use your imagination. Get wild. You might even try placing some old clothes with your scent in the house. Although don't be offended if your dog drags them out, that's not unheard of.
Feed the dog in the house for awhile. - Some dog owners have had success introducing a new dog house by feeding the dog in the house. You could start by placing the dog's bowl just inside the doorway of the house so the dog can easily find it. Then, gradually move it further into the house so the dog is forced to go inside the house to chow down. You might even try hiding some dog bones inside the house. Eventually your pet will form a pleasant association between the dog house and eating and will decide that it's not such a bad place to hang out after all.
Make sure the house fits the dog. - If the dog house is too big, it won't feel like a cozy den to your pet. Furthermore, if the house is not heated, the dog must be able to heat the inside of the house with his own body heat. An overly large house defeats the purpose. Of course, if the house is too small for your pet to fit comfortably inside, that can cause problems. During the winter, make sure the house has plenty of clean, dry bedding into which your pet can burrow to stay warm and dry. You might even consider a heated pad as a further enticement to keep him in the house.
Give the dog a companion. - We all know that dogs are pack animals and like hanging out with others of their kind. If you have the desire and resources to acquire another dog, consider putting both of them in the same house - at least for awhile, to make it seem more like a snug pack den where they can keep each other warm. Having a companion will also help your dog feel like she hasn't been banished to the outdoors, she now has two "families" to hang with,an indoor one and an outdoor one.
I Tried All That But Nothing Works! Sometimes you try many different dog house introduction techniques and the dog still doesn't seem to like the house. What do you do then? Well, try to determine if the dog is suffering by not going inside the house. Many dog owners have observed that their pet will use the house only under extreme weather conditions, on days when it is extremely rainy, snowy, windy or hot. Dogs, like almost any other living creature, will seek out a safe comfortable place when the situation requires. The important thing is to make the house available to your pet so he can use it when he wants. Dogs innately know how to make the best out of being outdoors.
If your dog doesn't use the house even under severe weather conditions and is obviously suffering, then clearly a change of course is warranted. Perhaps its time to give the dog house to a friend and bring Fido back inside the house with the humans. Just follow your instincts, they are usually spot on.
Need to train your dog? Have fun using this great app that works! Dog Tricks & Bark Machine is your ultimate portable Dog Trick training app. Photos and instructional text in Bark Machine were sourced from the popular dog training books: Maran Illustrated Dog Training & Maran Illustrated Puppies. These books were supervised by certified dog trainers that were members of the highly respected American Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Bark Machine includes a variety of amazing sounds designed to captivate your dog. Bark Machine is fully integrated with the Dog Tricks so that you can play any of these sounds while teaching your dog tips or tricks. Choose from Woof, Meow, Doorbell, Fire Truck, Clicker, Squeaky Toy, Door Knock or a high frequency Dog Whistle. Hours of fun ! Dog Tricks includes Basic commands, Games, Tricks, Tips on behavior issues, and a separate category just for Puppies! Also included is a section on popular dog breeds and a great "Photos" section. Impress your guests, friends and family and show off your smart dog today!!
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