NEVER USE A REMEDY / SELF-TREATMENT ON YOUR DOG WITHOUT BEING ADVISED BY VETERINARY PHYSICIAN
NEVER USE A REMEDY / SELF-TREATMENT ON YOUR DOG WITHOUT BEING ADVISED BY VETERINARY PHYSICIAN
All images on DOGICA® pages used only as illustrations and respectfully belong to its legal rights owners !!! Find the author of any image with TINEYE tool If you are a legal rights owner and would like to add, update or remove your material. By using this site you are agree on: The information contained in or provided through DOGICA® site is intended for general consumer understanding and education only and is not intended to be and is not a substitute for professional advice.Use of this site and any information contained on or provided through this site is at your own risk and any information contained on or provided through this site is provided on an "as is" basis without any representations or warranties or pay.   DOGICA® Cookies Policy and Regulations
All images on DOGICA® pages used only as illustrations and respectfully belong to its legal rights owners !!! Find the author of any image with TINEYE tool If you are a legal rights owner and would like to add, update or remove your material. By using this site you are agree on: The information contained in or provided through DOGICA® site is intended for general consumer understanding and education only and is not intended to be and is not a substitute for professional advice.Use of this site and any information contained on or provided through this site is at your own risk and any information contained on or provided through this site is provided on an "as is" basis without any representations or warranties or pay.   DOGICA® Cookies Policy and Regulations
Here is DOGICA - intelligent, cute, talented and loyal pooch! (o: She can walk, play, sit, lie down and roll over. Try to pet her and watch how she responds. Entertain her by playing ball or giving her a bone. Reward a canine with a treat! To get her to sit, double-click your mouse on the ground close to her. Double-click again to get her to lie down, then hold mouse button down,make a circular motion to roll the dog over
Best Dog Training Schools & Courses Online Housebreaking Schedule For Puppies Dog Training Classes, Tips & Information Dog Memory Training Tips & Techniques Train your Dog & Puppy not to Pee Dog Training Methods & Commands Service & Working Dogs Training Electronic Collar Dog Training 100 Advanced Dog Training Tips Train Your Dog to Love Doghouse Teach Your Dog Obedience Best Treats for Dog Training How to Teach Dog Tricks Train Your Dog Online Deaf Dog & Puppy Training Dog Training Programs Clicker Dog Training Blind Dog Training Dog Alpha Training Backpack Dog Training Crate Dog Training Dog Training Books Dog Brain Training Dog Training Videos Dog Carriers Training Stop Dog Biting Scateboarding Dogs Dog Parkour Surfing Dogs Puppy Training Dog Agility
Lots of dogs have no manners, and their owners are at a loss as to how to teach them manners. So these hapless folks frequently end up hollaring at poor Misty or smacking Buster on the butt with an open palm or a newspaper. Even worse, when Rambo doesn't shape up, he's banished to the basement or the backyard to live his days in solitude, or he's taken to the pound because we just can't deal with him any more.
Obedience training would have prevented many of these problems and can help solve the bad behaviors that exist. Many people think that obedience training is something that is done to a dog to make it perform some artificial activity on command. But if we turn the words around, we'll be closer to a real definition: Obedience training is to train dogs to be obedient, to obey anything and everything they're told to do. It covers a wide range of lessons a dog can learn, including tricks, family manners, show ring exercises, and skills demonstrations. Sniffing dogs, service dogs for handicapped owners, search and rescue dogs, sled and carting dogs, hunting dogs, all carry their obedience training to the highest degree. They have been trained to obey an unusual set of commands that increase their value as helpers to man.
Training would be a cinch if dogs spoke the same language that people speak. Dogs have their own attitudes,voice and body language, and mindset. They can be stubborn, dominant, submissive, or fearful, characteristics that can make them difficult to train.
Principles of Successful Training
1. Be Consistent: Apply the same rules and the same words all the time.
2. Be Concise: Give your command just once. Repetition of commands teaches your dog to ignore them because it sounds like you don't care if he obeys or not.
3. Be Generous: Reward your dog for being right. Give him a treat, verbal praise, or an ear massage.
4. Be Smart:Don't give a command unless either you are confident that your dog understands and will respond to it correctly or you are in a position to help him get it right.
5. Be Prepared: Have a leash handy in case your dog does not come to you when you call him.
6. Be Happy: Because your dog is your friend and your training partner, keep your voice upbeat and smile at him. Dogs are sensitive to our tone of voice and body language, so use both to let him know that you will be so happy when he does what you ask him.
7. Decide whether a group class or private lessons fit your situation and your personality.
8. Ask your veterinarian, your dog's breeder, the animal shelter staff, the groomer, or the folks at the pet supply store for referrals.
9. Observe at least two or three instructors or classes before making a choice.
10. Cardinal Rule Number One is to talk to the potential instructor or club or business representative before making a decision on where to train.
Never be afraid to ask the instructor questions and never feel compelled to do anything that you don't understand or feel happy with.
Always be consistent to avoid confusing your dog.
Start as you mean to go on. Set your own boundaries for your own dog and stick to them, make sure everyone in the household agrees to do this. Your dog needs to know its name so that it responds to you. After this you will be able to gain its attention and teach new commands and body signals.
Keep in mind that dogs do not speak English so the different tones of your voice and body movements are better understood so the actual command words are of less importance.
Be patient. If you find yourself getting frustrated and annoyed with your dog, stop and walk away. Do something different for a while. Later begin again with a clear frame of mind.
Train for short spells on a regular daily basis. This way the dog remains interested and you will progress faster.
Understand your dog and learn to anticipate its next move.
Handle and stroke and groom your dog every day with constant praise so it gets very used to being handled.
Play adds an extra dimension to a dog's life and can make training fun when used as a reward.
Persevere ,don't compare your dog to anyone else's, all dogs are individuals and keep in mind your goal that a well-trained dog is a happy dog and a pleasure to live with!
General Training Tips Remember to always keep training sessions short to reduce frustration and enhance concentration, 10 minutes is perfect. Remember to always reward after clicking your dog and reward within 3 seconds. The more you train with your dog, the more he will experiment with behaviours during training sessions to work out what you want him to do. When teaching a difficult command, you can give your dog a "jackpot" of lots of treats and a big cuddle and praise when he finally gets it right. Training should be fun for you and your dog, so whenever you complete a training session, always end on a positive note. If you are both getting frustrated, ask your dog to do something he knows how to do and reward him for that. Never end on a failure. The following video has some great training advice and features the clicker and how to shape behaviours.
Teaching Attention The fundamental of training your dog is to teach him to pay attention. Say his name then click and reward him when he looks at you. Repeat this several times until it is reliable. You may initially just be rewarding a slight movement of his head towards you, but shape the behaviour so that you eventually get actual eye contact and longer periods of attention.
BEST DOG TRAINING TIPS
1.Choose your dog's name wisely and be respectful of it. Of course you'll want to pick a name for your new puppy or dog that you love, but for the purposes of training it also helps to consider a short name ending with a strong consonant. This allows you to say his name so that he can always hear it clearly. A strong ending (i.e. Jasper, Jack, Ginger) perks up puppy ears, especially when you place a strong emphasize at the end.
2.If he's an older dog, he's probably used to his name; however, changing it isn't out of the question. If he's from a shelter, they may neglect to tell you that he has a temporary name assigned to him by staff. If he's from a breeder, he'll come to you with a long name, which you may want to shorten, or change. And if he's coming out of an abusive situation, a new name may represent a fresh start. But we're lucky: dogs are extremely adaptable. And soon enough, if you use it consistently, he will respond to his new name.
3.New name or old, as much as possible, associate it with pleasant, fun things, rather than negative. The goal is for him to think of his name the same way he thinks of other great stuff in his life, like "walk," "cookie," or "dinner!"
4.Decide on the "house rules." Before he comes home, decide what he can and can't do. Is he allowed on the bed or the furniture? Are parts of the house off limits? Will he have his own chair at your dining table? If the rules are settled on early, you can avoid confusion for both of you.
5.Set up his private den. He needs "a room of his own." From the earliest possible moment give your pup or dog his own, private sleeping place that's not used by anyone else in the family, or another pet. He'll benefit from short periods left alone in the comfort and safety of his den. Reward him if he remains relaxed and quiet. His den, which is often a crate, will also be a valuable tool for housetraining.
6.Help him relax when he comes home. When your puppy gets home, give him a warm hot water bottle and put a ticking clock near his sleeping area. This imitates the heat and heartbeat of his litter mates and will soothe him in his new environment. This may be even more important for a new dog from a busy, loud shelter who's had a rough time early on. Whatever you can do to help him get comfortable in his new home will be good for both of you.
7.Teach him to come when called. Come Jasper! Good boy! Teaching him to come is the command to be mastered first and foremost. And since he'll be coming to you, your alpha status will be reinforced. Get on his level and tell him to come using his name. When he does, make a big deal using positive reinforcement. Then try it when he's busy with something interesting. You'll really see the benefits of perfecting this command early as he gets older.
8.Reward his good behavior. Reward your puppy or dog's good behavior with positive reinforcement. Use treats, toys, love, or heaps of praise. Let him know when's he's getting it right. Likewise, never reward bad behaviour; it'll only confuse him.
9.Take care of the jump up. Puppies love to jump up in greeting. Don't reprimand him, just ignore his behavior and wait 'til he settles down before giving positive reinforcement. Never encourage jumping behavior by patting or praising your dog when he's in a "jumping up" position. Turn your back on him and pay him no attention.
10.Teach him on "dog time." Puppies and dogs live in the moment. Two minutes after they've done something, it's forgotten about. When he's doing something bad, try your chosen training technique right away so he has a chance to make the association between the behavior and the correction. Consistent repetition will reinforce what's he's learned.
11.Discourage him from biting or nipping. Instead of scolding him, a great way to put off your mouthy canine is to pretend that you're in great pain when he's biting or nipping you. He'll be so surprised he's likely to stop immediately. If this doesn't work, try trading a chew toy for your hand or pant leg. The swap trick also works when he's into your favorite shoes. He'll prefer a toy or bone anyway. If all else fails, break up the biting behavior, and then just ignore him.
12.End training sessions on a positive note. Excellent boy! Good job, Jasper! He's worked hard to please you throughout the training. Leave him with lots of praise, a treat, some petting, or five minutes of play. This guarantees he'll show up at his next class with his tail wagging ready to work!
Many dog training methods are based on what makes the OWNER feel good, rather than on what actually makes sense to the DOG.
Why to train your dog? This is the really fun and most rewarding part of owning a dog! Training your new friend needs to be high on your list of priorities as soon as you have decided to own a new dog. No dog is too old to learn and training classes are available for every age and ability, pedigrees, crossbreeds and rescue dogs are all welcomed. You will also meet like-minded people and share in a common aim to have well behaved dogs that are a pleasure to own.
Puppies can usually begin as soon as they have had their course of vaccinations. Training is an obligation all dog owners need to fulfil for the community they live in and the welfare of the dog. By going to classes you can meet the ethical and moral responsibilities of dog ownership and promote the benefits that dogs can bring to peoples' lives.
Positive Reinforcement vs. Alpha Dog Methods Mention training methods to a group of dog trainers, and you might want to prepare for a fight at the dog park. Some call those who use only positive reinforcement "cookie pushers" or "treat slingers." The other side calls those who use more dominance-based techniques "choke folks" or worse: cruel and inhumane.
Consider breed-specific behaviors when training. That includes whether the dog was bred to hunt, pull, fight, guard, or has a strong prey drive. Other factors include temperament, age, environment, sensitivity level, and behavior and training history. Do no harm, maintain harmony, and accomplish training and behavior modification without violating the dog's trust. It's important to note that The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has voiced concern that training programs based on dominance or punishment can be ineffective and possibly dangerous, especially in the hands of an unskilled nonprofessional. Owners who rely on positive-only dog training are stuck, whenever their dog "isn't in the mood" to do something.
All Things Positive Purely positive reinforcement has been made popular by trainers such as Victoria Stilwell, of Animal Planet's TV show It's Me Or The Dog. It's also the method taught by Dawn Sylvia-Stasiewicz. Based in Hume, she trained Bo, the Obamas' dog. The belief is simple: Dogs learn good behavior by being rewarded for doing well. And punishment doesn't have to come in the form of a harsh reprimand or physical force. Sylvia-Stasiewicz says more dominant training and techniques focus too much on "bad" things a dog does and force the animal to figure out, through trial and error, what he must do in order not to be punished.
Training doesn't have to be cruel and punishment-oriented. If you train using positive reinforcement, you'll get a trained dog and you will maintain the spirit of that dog. Positive reinforcement trainers often use verbal cues, hand signals, treats, clickers, toys, and even games to help modify behavior, correct bad habits, and even to teach tricks. Trainers use both positive reinforcement (giving rewards) and negative punishment (taking away rewards.). Anything the dog likes and enjoys is fair game to train with.
To Knee or Not to Knee? Sylvia-Stasiewicz, who wrote The Love That Dog Training Method, says a client's Australian shepherd wouldn't stop jumping, despite reprimands. A trainer who used a more traditional, alpha dog technique taught the client to knee the dog in the chest each time it jumped. Rather than punish the dog for doing something bad, Sylvia-Stasiewicz had the client greet the dog only when it was sitting. If the dog jumped, the client ignored it or turned his back. But when the dog sat, he got his favorite treat of a stuffed Kong or praise as a reward for not jumping. After five weeks of class time plus practice, the dog stopped jumping. Sylvia-Stasiewicz admits results can come slower with purely positive reinforcement, but says the method has even saved so-called "death row dogs" who some thought impossible to rehabilitate.
Alpha Dog Approach Trainers who use this approach might use choke chains, prong collars, electronic or e-collars. Other tools might include a hand squeeze that mimics a quick bite, alpha rolls (pinning the dog to the ground) as well as "flooding" or subjecting the dog to something it doesn't like in large doses. Some trainers label their use of this method as "blended" or "balanced" because it can include positive reinforcement, such as well-timed praise and even treats.
Clicker Dog Training Is a form of "operant conditioning". Here's how it works: You click the clicker at the precise instant your dog is doing some desired behavior. You then immediately give a treat. The dog thus learns that whenever he hears the clicking sound, whatever behavior he was doing at that instant will bring him food.
Respective Dog Training Real life for all living creatures, including dogs, and yes, humans, too! Consists of learning from both positive AND negative consequences.
Positive consequences encourage us to repeat a behavior.
Negative consequences discourage us from repeating a behavior.
For example, we hold the elevator door open and someone says, "Thank you!" (positive), so we are likely to do it again. We take an extra-long lunch break and the boss docks our pay (negative), so we are less likely to do that again. We learn from both positive and negative consequences and behave accordingly. So do dogs. When a puppy plays with his mother, if his style of play is reasonable, she responds in a positive manner. But if he gets too rough, she is quick to correct with a growl or bite. Does Puppy become depressed and never play with another dog again? Of course not. He is happy to play, only more gently. Positive only dog training is well-intentioned, but it doesn't match real life or how dogs learn best. Simply withholding a treat is not a negative consequence to most dogs. Especially not when they're happily occupied with pestering the cat or chewing up shoes or digging through the trash. They don't care a whit about your treat.
Balanced Dog Training Where their behaviors can result in positive OR negative consequences.
Positive consequences - YOU rewarding desirable behaviors with praise, smiles, petting, games, and treats.
Negative consequences - YOU correcting undesirable behaviors with your voice or hands, or with the leash or collar. Now, I don't mean hitting, yelling, choke collars, or shock collars. I can show you how to correct your dog without being harsh or hurtful.
By showing your dog both positive and negative consequences, he can make a conscious choice to do a behavior or refrain from doing a behavior: not only when he's in the mood for a positive consequence - reward, treat - but also when he might not care a hoot about the positive consequence but he controls himself because he doesn't want the negative consequence & correction.
When YOU become the arbiter of your dog's behaviors, the one who gets to say yea or nay about what he's allowed to do, your dog feels secure and respectful. And once your dog respects you, he will listen to you, pay attention to you, do whatever you ask, and stop any misbehavior upon a single word from you.
Dog Whispering Though Cesar Millan, the inventor of this method, sometimes comes under criticism because of the use of correction, it can be a very useful technique with some dogs. The foundation of dog whispering is the connection with and understanding between you and your dog. The key is that you have to be able to read your dog's body language and to use your own body language to train him. This does often involve correction but the corrections are based on dog behavior. For example, a dog who is being aggressive toward another dog can be corrected by applying a clawed hand to his neck. This mimics what his mother would have done in the wild. This method requires some study into the behavior of dogs but it can create a very tight bond between you.
In addition to actual dog trainers, you can get advice from a dog behavioral specialist. You might also be interested in learning about the cognitive functions of dogs. There are books on the subject and Cognitive Canine Centers around the country. This will help you understand how your dog thinks and will make training easier. Remember that the most important aspects are to be calm and consistent and try to have some fun, too!
Puller Dog Training PULLER is an interactive device for dogs and owners. Many people struggle combining a busy life with providing their dog with sufficient physical and mental stimulation. As a result dogs get bored and become destructive, they might get anxious or become reactive. The uniqueness of the PULLER is that it is able to provide the necessary workout in a very short amount of time. Just three simple exercises for 20 minutes are comparable to 5km of intensive run. You will be pleasantly surprised how quickly your dog will get more relaxed and content. Moreover, these exercises will help develop muscles, giving your dog an improved physical condition. After trying it once, all dogs simply "fall in love" with it. The quality of the material has helped train many dogs to fetch, although there were no means to make the dog do it before.
Puppy training starts the moment you bring your puppy home. Whatever he does, you must react properly or he will learn the wrong things. First and foremost, teach your new puppy his daily routines. Where his food and water dishes are located. What times of day he will eat. Where his bed is. What time he goes to bed. What time he gets up. Where he goes to the bathroom. Where his toys are kept. Don't make the mistake of thinking that it doesn't matter HOW you teach each of these routines. It definitely does matter. If you do it the right way, your puppy will be better-behaved and pleased to let you decide how you want him to fit into your family.
If you use the wrong teaching method, your puppy will begin making decisions about how he wants YOU to fit into his life, and that's a recipe for conflict and behavior problems.
Teach your puppy words You must teach your puppy words, as well as routines. The most important words are "No" (which means "Stop whatever you're doing") and "Good" (which means "I like what you're doing"). These correction and praise words should be started at 2-3 months of age. Praise and correction words will be used to teach many other words that Puppy needs to know. You must teach them properly, with the right tone of voice and the right body language, or they won't be of any help in teaching other words. If your puppy is older than 2-3 months and hasn't learned "No" and "Good" flawlessly, you must start with those words before you can expect success with other word training.
Avoid biscuit training. It would be a big mistake to rely on food treats to teach your puppy, or a dog of any age. What's wrong with "biscuit training"? It's based on your puppy deciding when he's hungry enough to do what you want.Imagine your puppy running out the front door. You call him to offer a treat. But he'd rather chase a squirrel into the road than stop to munch a treat. In addition to the obvious danger of Puppy getting hit by a car, he learns that he doesn't have to listen to you. He learns that he's in charge of what he decides to do and what he decides not to do. Very bad! Now, I'm not saying you shouldn't give ANY treats to your puppy. Treats can be great motivators. But if your training method consists of giving your puppy a treat when he does what you say, while doing nothing if he DOESN'T do what you say and then you're going to find yourself in serious trouble whenever you want him to do something and he's not hungry or whenever you want him to STOP doing something and he'd rather go on doing it, regardless of the treats you're desperately flinging at him.
Respect training is a must Respect training is not something you can get "almost" right. You must get it completely, consistently right, in a way that dogs understand. I can help you with this.You must teach your puppy to respect you as the leader in your home. Without proper respect, your training schedule doesn't matter much, because he may learn words and routines but choose not to do them. I'm sure you've heard stories from dog owners who say their dog "understands" them just fine: he just doesn't DO what they say. They might even try to laugh it off by saying, "He's so smart he has ME trained!" This isn't intelligence - it's disrespect. And it can be traced to improper training right from the time the puppy was first brought home.
HOW TO TRAIN THE DOG TO NOT TO PEE This material proudly presented by WWW.DOGSBARN.COM
Following these simple tips will show you how to stop your dog peeing in the house and help you discover what the underlying cause might be. There can be many reasons that your dog or puppy urinates inside your home, whatever that may be peeing inside is a big No No, and something you will want to put a stop to immediately.
When you bring a new puppy home it is inevitable there may be a few accidents, but with an older dog there is usually an underlying issue and we need to understand what this might be in order to be able to solve the problem. Rescue dogs can suffer from problems if they haven't been properly house-trained in their previous homes or have been fearful and suffered from stress while in Kennels. Older dogs like humans find it difficult to control their bladders for long periods as they enter their twilight years and one of the more common causes for adult dogs who won't stop peeing in the house are behavioural issues.
Very often people say " My dog is peeing in the house for no reason" - There is always a reason and more often than not that reason is the owner. Housebreaking a puppy or re-training an adult dog takes patience, time and a watchful eye.
How to Stop Your Dog Peeing in the House
Crating Dogs don't like to go the toilet in their personal space Creating a comfortable secure environment for them during alone time or through the night can reduce accidents. Make sure you get the correct size crate for your dog putting a Chihuahua in a crate for a Great Dane will not only give him somewhere to sleep but quite a large toilet area as well.
Make Alone Time Fun Dogs left alone for long periods can suffer from separation anxiety which can result in them urinating either through nervousness or inability to hold it in for long periods of time. Puppies should never be left alone for long periods and if you have an older dog try to make alone time less stressful. Leave them puzzles or hide treats, even leaving the radio or television on can help them feel more secure.
Sprays There are numerous commercial sprays on the market that can stop a dog urinating in a particular area they contain different chemicals or natural compounds such as cayenne pepper that dogs dislike and will avoid. There are also sprays that you can buy that you use on the place you want your dog to pee that actually smell of urine in order to encourage him to go in the correct place. You can also make your own homemade repellents which work just as well and are much cheaper.
White Vinegar Canines can't stand the smell of acetic acid so will avoid areas sprayed with a solution of White Vinegar. Dilute with equal parts water and spray over the affected areas. Not only will it keep fido away but will also clean and neutralise any areas he has already used as a toilet.
Rubbing Alcohol To use its correct name, Isopropyl alcohol has a powerful scent that is extremely disagreeable to dogs. Dilute the mixture with an equal amount of water and spray carpets weekly or after cleaning. This solution also has anti-bacterial properties and will disinfect the area thoroughly.
Lemon Juice Mix freshly squeezed lemon juice with water and spray onto carpets. A more pleasant smell for humans it will remove any lingering odours while keeping your dog at bay.
Have a Neighbour or Dog Walker Pop In If you need to be out of the home for longer periods of time it can be a good idea to get a neighbour to pop in so your pooch can have regular potty breaks or if funds allow perhaps hire a dog walker. A well-exercised dog is less likely to pee in the house and after a long walk will settle down happily instead of fretting.
Never Punish It can be frustrating to have a dog that pees in the home but it is important to never shout or punish the dog by hitting it. This will only make him fearful and nervous. If you haven't seen him do the deed he will have no idea what he's done wrong and if you catch him in the act it will only make him fearful of relieving himself in-front of you in future.
Day Care If you have to work all day every day then you should reconsider getting a puppy, but if you have an older dog that gets on well with others why not consider day-care. He will have fun while you go to work, socialising and playing with others of his kind and the opportunity for plenty of toilet breaks.
Vigilance Whether you are house-training a puppy or an older dog you need to be vigilant, keep them where you can see them at all times and always give them the opportunity to go to the toilet when waking up from a nap, or after food or drink. If your four-legged friend needs a midnight toilet break set the alarm. It might seem like a chore initially but it shouldn't last long and will be worth the effort.
Rewards As with all dogs the best way to get them to do what you want them too is by rewarding them either by lavishing them with praise, giving them their favourite toy or usually the one that works best of all, treats! You will soon come to know what your dog responds too best so use it to your advantage when he pees where you want him to.
Keeping Calm Puppies don't have the muscular control of older dogs and many pee from either excitement or nervousness, although not really a house-training problem and something they usually grow out of it can be embarrassing when they pee all over a guest's shoes. This can be avoided by teaching your puppy to sit and ignoring them until they become calm and relaxed when you enter a room and encouraging any visitors to do the same.
Take Time Off It is impossible to house-train any dog be it a puppy or adult if you are not there, even if you only work part-time you need to take time off to do the job properly and consistently. It won't take long but it really is vital to prevent your pet from peeing in the house.
Check With the Vet Although puppies pee and sometimes a rescue dog that has spent time in kennels may not be house-trained it is unusual for an adult dog to start relieving themselves indoors without an underlying reason. Older dogs especially, can develop many conditions that can increase the need to go or lose control of their bladder muscles. If you haven't had any problems previously and now your older dog is peeing indoors, it is a good idea to check with your vet to rule out anything serious.
Socialization One of the saddest reasons for a dog peeing indoors is fearfulness. Dogs that have not experienced the sounds, smells and sights of the world at large when young can develop phobias that stop them feeling comfortable when going to the loo outside. A loud noise, fireworks, thunder can all be terrifying to a dog. Their nervousness keeps them constantly distracted instead of dealing with the business at hand. making it more likely for them to pee inside the home. It is important to introduce to lots of experiences whilst they are young to build confidence.
Don't Cover the Smell Eliminate it Dog's urine omits a powerful enzyme that tells them to "Please Pee Here!" therefore it is vital to not just clean up any accidents that may occur but also to eliminate the odour completely to stop your dog peeing on the carpet.
Introduce a Word Many owners find that introducing a word associated with going to the toilet helps their dog with training to go potty outside. Our canine friends are usually eager to please and having a word such as "Busy" or "Pee pee" can help them understand what is required if re-enforced and used all the time until they get the hang of it.
Keep Them With You Outside Not Alone Do not put your puppy outside and leave them there expecting them to do the business. Not only will you not know one way or the other if they have been, often they will be so involved in getting back to you and wondering where you have gone which can cause stress and they will concentrate on that rather than going to the toilet.
Avoid Exciting Games Until Business While trying to housetrain any dog it is important you keep them from being distracted. Avoid playing with them until business is taken care of they will be much more interested in a game of tug or playing with a ball than going to the loo. Keep the games for afterwards when not only will they enjoy the playtime but see it as a reward.
Neutering A common problem with male dogs and in particular small breeds is territory marking this can occur if there is more than one pet in the house, if you bring home a new baby or even if someone visits. New and strange smells will encourage a dog to mark his territory and can result in him cocking his leg on every piece of furniture in your home. So how can you stop a male dog from marking? You can try correcting with a firm no or short spray of water when you see him about to raise a leg or actually Neutering can lower the testosterone hopefully making your canine companion slightly less territorial.
Medication There are many medical conditions that can contribute to dogs peeing in the house. Diabetes is a common one where the dog drinks so much he cannot hold it in like he used too. Older dogs can also suffer from Canine Cognitive Dysfunction, a similar condition to Alzheimer's in humans. This makes them confused and they may not even remember peeing at all. Older spayed bitches can sometimes leak urine while sleeping due to decreased hormone levels. Your vet can usually help in these cases by prescribing medication to help with the problem.
Shaker Bottle or Water Spray Making your own Shaker Bottle or water spray can often help you stop dogs from frequent peeing in the home. As soon as you notice your pooch doing the pee dance which inevitably involves sniffing, circling and finally squatting give the bottle a firm shake or spray him with the water. This will be enough to stop him from peeing enabling you to take him outside to the correct area. When he relieves himself shower him with praise. This method can have quick results in stopping your puppy peeing everywhere, if used properly - Don't scare the dog the point is to distract him not make him fearful.
The Boss Dominant dogs both male and female can assert their authority as the pack leader by peeing around the house this is a common trait found in smaller breeds who have been spoiled and allowed to get away with other undesirable behaviours. So how do you stop small dogs peeing in the house? Don't worry this problem can be easily solved by reasserting your authority and showing them who is boss. Don't baby them, use firm training methods, make them sit and wait to be fed re-enforcing the fact that it is you who is the pack leader and not them.
Soaked Paper A common method especially used for puppies who pee indoors is to encourage them initially to pee on newspaper you can use the urine soaked newspaper to show them where to pee outdoors as the powerful smell will encourage them to go in the same place. Hopefully the paper will only be needed for a short time and they will soon get the hang of where the toilet is.
Limit Drinks Before Bed Although it is advisable to have a constant supply of clean fresh water available for your dog at all times for dog's who are having problems going through the night without an accident it might be wise to limit their intake on an evening say after 8.00pm. Common sense is needed here though if they have been on a late night walk, enjoyed a strenuous game or the weather is hot don't let them go thirsty.
Never Rub His Nose in It Back in the day this was lauded as the correct way to house-train a puppy, how wrong we were! It is c??ruel and confusing. The puppy has no idea what he has done to displease you he lives in the moment and at that moment he is learning that you-the person he loves most in the world can be unpredictable and someone to be feared. This will only encourage him to hide from you when peeing in future, making it much more difficult to train him.
Keep on Leash When Visiting If you have a puppy who is not yet house-trained or an older dog who pees in the house it is always a good idea to keep them on the leash while visiting friends that way you are in control of your pooch at all times which can prevent any embarrassment or not being invited around again.
Ask the Breeder When you bring your new puppy home a responsible breeder will give you lots of information about what he has been feeding the pup, whether it has had its first vaccinations and any health checks. Therefore, it seems reasonable that you ask if the puppy has started his toilet training and if so is he used to puppy pads or newspaper. Carrying on with something your new best friend is familiar with will reduce the likelihood of accidents.
Paper Training Many dog owners train their puppies on paper or puppy pads initially, this is especially useful if you don't have immediate access to an outdoor area, Perhaps if you live in an apartment, The best way to do this is to situate the paper or puppy pads near to the door, that way when you see your pup heading in that direction you know he needs the toilet.
Gradually reduce the amount of papers until the little fella is fully trained and they are no longer required. This method can take a bit longer than going straight outside but with patience your puppy should soon learn that peeing in the house isn't acceptable.
Belly Bands As a last resort, if your dog has an underlying medical issue that cannot be resolved by medication or suffers from incontinence you can purchase Dog Nappies or "Belly Bands" These bands wrap around the dog's belly and contain an absorbent pad for any leakage helping to keep your home free from any accidents. They should not however, be a lazy man's alternative to house- training. Teaching your dog there is no designated area for peeing and giving them carte blanche to go when and wherever they want is counter-productive and will only give you more work in the long run.
Belly Bands It requires patience to stop a puppy peeing in the house and even more so to prevent an older dog from doing so. We have to remember it is not their fault, they are not on a mission to annoy us or make our lives difficult. Understanding the reason for your dog peeing in the house is the key to solving the problem. Try one or more of these tips on how to stop your dog peeing in the house and you will find that your four-legged friend will soon be peeing where he is supposed to-Outside!
A GOOD dog trainer has a healthy respect for a dog's powers of recall. Considering dog's the superior nose, the massive mental focus on smell and the connection with memory, it stands to reason that a dog will remember smells pretty well. This is why a dog wants to smell your hands and shoes: to learn where you have been and what you have been doing. We, humans think in words and pictures. Imagine going somewhere new and interesting and keeping your eyes closed, then trying to describe it. I believe a dog thinks in smells and, to a lesser extent, textures and patterns of movement. A walk is about gathering smells. A dog's life, its interaction with the world, is all about smells. I try to apply this to dog training.
I have spoken often about the importance of patience, repetition and routines when training a dog. I believe smell can and should be part of the mix. As I work with a dog, I try to fill its head with smells, especially new smells. I put emphasis on overlaying my smell with new scents in the dog's memory. That's my focus on day one: a simple sequence of events, combined with new smells.
Usually the sequence ends at home in familiar surroundings where the dog earns a few treats by performing obedience sequences. The next time the dog meets me, my smell triggers memories of what we did the last time we met, of the things and places we smelled together. When I repeat the routine from the previous session it starts to become a pattern. Even very young dogs remember things we did months later. I think smell plays a big part in this. I think sleep is important too. In my experience, new smells will send a dog to sleep better than physical exercise.
I operate on the assumption that a dog processes its experiences in its sleep and whereas our human experiences are catalogued primarily in visual images, a dog's are mostly about smell. If you have the required patience, you can try this. Take your dog for a walk somewhere new and watch the places it smells with the most concentration, then go back another day and see if it is drawn to the same spots directly by memory, as opposed to discovering them by accident as it did the first time. If a dog is to remember something well it needs to tag it with a smell or more likely an olfactory tapestry at which we can only guess. The more distinctive the olfactory information, the better the memory of the event.
DOG POTTY TRAINING This material proudly presented by WWW.SAMIVY.COM and Sam Ivy
When to Begin House Training Puppy Experts recommend that you begin house training your puppy when he is between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. At that point, he has enough control of his bladder and bowel movements to learn to hold it. If your puppy is older than 12 weeks when you bring him home and he's been eliminating in a cage (and possibly eating his waste), house training may take longer. You will have to reshape the dog's behavior with encouragement and reward. Potty training a dog can be anyplace from effortless to extremely difficult, based on him, your household and your living. Numerous keepers become fortunate and notwithstanding the blunders they inadvertently create, they are with a potty trained dog. However, some holders require help from an instructor or behavior therapist.
Assuring your home is without pee spots and smells is something you must do before starting your potty training strategy. Buy black light and an animal scent cleaner from your nearby animal shop. Switch off the lights and completely examine your house, rugs and furnishings once it is dim. The black light will show all aged spots therefore you can efficiently wash and eliminate them. There are numerous helpful maintenance items available.
Buy an excellent cage when you do not already have one that is sufficient for your dog to stand and lay. In a peaceful yet not remote portion of your house, place the cage. Create and observe an administration plan round the clock of potty breaks. Considering you do not desire your puppy to get a mishap so this is important. Your plan should add food, game, training and rest time and toilet breaks for the whole week plan.
Either you employ a dog walker or pet sitter that can assist you with that part of your potty training plan when you cannot be back throughout the break. This will be important for achievements. Maintain a day-to-day log on your dog's feeding plan and toilet behaviors. Observe as to when he pees and defecates. Mention precise time your dog consumes and any goodies provided every day. Usually, your record will assist you find how much time after feeding he wants to utilize the toilet. When necessary, you can utilize these facts to modify your plan.
Your dog's day will incorporate eating, resting, gaming, teaching and toilet breaks. Throughout all these durations, he is in its cage or connected to you. Absolutely, in the potty training duration, he must be monitored. Observe for indications of having to visit the toilet once he is tethered to you. Rapidly bring him away to its specified toilet spot when you see he is sniffing the surface, trolling in circles or appearing uneasy. Get your dog from its cage, on a chain, and bring him to its specified toilet spot at the planned toilet occasions. Maintain him on its chain however allow him discover while you stay in a place. First, disregard him. He will ultimately visit the toilet considering he is not acquiring awareness from you and there will be restricted issues of attention to discover in the limited region described by the chain.
Reward your dog when he has completed. Render him care and goodies. Have a small occasion with him. This allows him understand that his conduct is great and merits reward. You must make a circumstance where he desires to visit the toilet in that specific spot. Just upon your dog has been to the toilet should it be let from the chain to run or directed for his lengthy stroll. Eventually, this guarantees that he will understand that the quicker he finishes his toilet conduct the faster he receives his incentive of goodies, run or stroll. When you return him in to its cage, constantly workout or enjoy with or teach him.
Reveal to your dog you are a trustworthy and good chief. Don't penalize him for blunders. His mishaps are your mishaps. Merely have his awareness with a deafening clap and instantly bring him away to their toilet spot when you see him showing indications of requiring the toilet while inside and you are sluggish having your dog outside.
Do's and Don'ts in Potty Training Your Puppy Punishing your puppy for having an accident is a definite no-no. It teaches your puppy to fear you.
If you catch your puppy in the act, clap loudly so he knows he's done something unacceptable. Then take him outside by calling him or taking him gently by the collar. When he's finished, praise him or give him a small treat.
If you found the evidence but didn't see the act, don't react angrily by yelling or rubbing his nose in it. Puppies aren't intellectually capable of connecting your anger with their accident.
Staying outside longer with puppy may help to curb accidents. He may need the extra time to explore.
Clean up accidents with an enzymatic cleanser rather than an ammonia-based cleaner to minimize odors that might attract the puppy back to the same spot.
A crate can be a good idea for house training your puppy, at least in the short term. It will allow you to keep an eye on him for signs he needs to go and teach him to hold it until you open the crate and let him outside.
Here are a few guidelines for using a crate: Make sure it is large enough for the puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down, but not big enough for him to use a corner as a bathroom.
If you are using the crate for more than two hours at a time, make sure puppy has fresh water, preferably in a dispenser you can attach to the crate.
If you can't be home during the house training period, make sure somebody else gives him a break in the middle of the day for the first 8 months.
Don't use a crate if puppy is eliminating in it. Eliminating in the crate could have several meanings: he may have brought bad habits from the shelter or pet store where he lived before; he may not be getting outside enough; the crate may be too big, or he may be too young to hold it in.
Do you recommend crate training adolescent dogs to some of your adopters? If you are going to recommend crate training for your dogs when they are adopted, crate train them while they are at the shelter. This approach is easier on the dog: the dog is not completely bonded to one person at the shelter and so experiences less separation distress when crated. Crate training at the shelter also helps the adopter who may be reluctant to use a crate or be unfamiliar with crate training. When the shelter has already crate trained the dog, the adopters will be more likely to use the crate, and the chances for a permanent, successful adoption are greatly increased.
How to Crate Train Dog REMEMBER: you cannot counsel or do this type of quick, easy crate training with dogs already in a home. This is NOT the advice to give to owners over the phone. Instead, this is advisable only for dogs in shelters. Note: NEVER crate train a dog with a choke-type collar on or with a leash attached to his collar.
GOAL: Train the dog to spend time comfortably and calmly in a crate.
1. Place soft blankets and toys or chewies in the crate.
2. Clip a small bucket of water in the crate.
3. Find natural, short opportunities to crate train: a one hour nap, a ten minute "chew on the bone stretch," a rest after a tiring exercise session, or an overnight all make good crate training opportunities.
4. Crate train only for the amount of time the dog can comfortably hold his bladder and bowels. The rule of thumb for puppies is to crate in hours for the age of the puppy in months plus one. For example, a four-month-old puppy can stay in a crate comfortably for at most five hours. No dog should ever be crated for more than nine hours at a stretch.
5. Always supervise dogs when they are first crate trained to ensure they are not panicking.
6. Never force a dog into a crate or lock a panicking dog in a crate.
7. Some dogs will not take readily to a crate and may panic or harm themselves trying to escape. For these dogs, detach the crate door, place comfortable bedding and a few treats in the back of the crate, and leave the doorless crate in the run with the dog.
8. Feed him in the crate for a few days to help him acclimate.
Bear in mind that dogs that will be wearing a backpack for the first time have the possibility of exhibiting reluctance. This is considered as a normal behavior because this is something new and outside of their comfort zone. Do not force the dog to wear the backpack on the first attempt because this can lead to psychological trauma and stress !!!
Do not start hiking with your dog without any practice. Just like humans, dogs need to exsersize many and often, before they can reach highlands. Adding weight without gradual build-up can cause serious and sometimes unrecoverable injury to your dog. While hiking, also be sure to watch for signs of dehydration on your dog.
Many dog owners make the mistake of putting a dog backpack on their dog for very first time only minutes, before a hike, loading it up with stuff and then expecting the dog to be happy and comfortable. The more you practise with either dog back, the happier and stronger your dog probably will be on the hike. So practice makes ideal. The essential factor to remember when using a dog backpack for the first time is that your dog will most likely not want to wear it. This is natural. So, some patience is required here. Give your dog at least a couple of day of practice initial.
To get your dog used to a pack, start slowly. First, let your dog examine the pack, and make this a really positive experience - lots of praise for sniffing and showing an interest in the pack. Do this a few times and always keep your tone positive when introducing him to the pack.
Before the pack goes on your dog's back, make sure he is already been on a decent walk. A calm, focused dog is much easier to fit properly. Ensuing that all the straps are tightened properly, lure your dog into moving with the pack on his back. Use some really tasty treats to get him moving, and your dog will begin to associate the pack with good things.
During this time, you want to assess your dog's comfort level. Nervous? Unsure? Ambivalent? Also watch as your dog moves about the house: does he have his normal range of motion? Are there straps hanging in the way of the legs? Are the saddlebags sitting far enough forward on the shoulders? While it's natural for dogs to feel strange wearing their backpack in the beginning, make sure you watch for signs of pain or discomfort.
Once you have checked the pack and made any adjustments for fit, put it away for the day. You want to keep these sessions short and sweet. The next time the pack comes out you can take the dog for a short, fun walk. Bring plenty of treats and make this a pack party! You want the pack to be associated with really good things, so your dog is happy to carry it.
As your dog gets used to the pack, begin to fill the saddlebags with bunched up grocery store bags. You want to use something lightweight that will give the dog a feeling for the potential bulk of the pack. If you take your dog down a narrow trail or through a crowded farmers market, you don't want the dog ramming the pack into people.
Over time, you can gradually increase the weight of items in the pack. Take care to always keep the pack balanced on your dog's back. Before each use, give the pack a good once-over, looking for any frays or tears in the materials.
Check that the buckles are clean and free of debris. Inspect your dog's body for areas where a pack might be rubbing or causing hair loss. If the pack is rubbing, adjust it, and if that does not fix the problem, get a different model.
Be ready for some extra attention. When people see your dog in a pack, you will be on the receiving end of comments, compliments and questions. If you and your dog are social butterflies, be prepared for many conversations about how cool it is that your dog is carrying some of the weight. And if your dog loves the attention, this helps to re-enforce that wearing a pack is a good thing!
On the first day... Put the pack on your dog without the tightening the staps too much. They ought to be tight enough that your dog can not get it off and afree himself, but not as tight to bear the weight. It will certainly help to praise your dog for weaing it. Plenty of loving attention assists very much! Leave it on for a couple of hours and then take it off. So the doggy should become slowly used with the new back equipment.
Repeat it at the second day, but put the little dog backpack on a little tighter this time. Keep the straps lose enough for three fingers, to slide under the straps effortlessly. Nevertheless, you need to have the ability to pull down on the pockets, just a little without the backpack sliding around too much.
The third day... should be a repeat of the second day, except this time the dog backpack will have some weight on it. Try a coulple of hal filled water bottles or some kibble in a zip-locked bag.
The fourth day should be the same as the third day, but this day will probably be a full weight day. The dog backpack should be left on for about a hour, during this time. This would be to get your dog accustomed to the weight. Now your dog ought to be prepared for a little hile with a full pack on his back. If you believe that the fifth day is essential, of course fee free to leave the full pack on longer.
Step 1: Select a backpack that's right for your dog When you are deciding on a backpack for your dog, take into account what you are using it for. Just exercise around town? For long hikes when camping? This will help you decide on the design of the pack and what kind of capacity you need. However, even if you are just using a pack for burning extra calories on a walk, make sure it is of sound construction. Things like where the straps fit on your dog, how well you can adjust fit, and if there is padding under the clasps, will all factor in to how comfortable it is for your dog to wear their new pack.
Step 2: Introduce the pack and get a proper fit It's important to start your dog off on the right foot with their backpack, because the last thing you want is for them to become scared of it or dread it. That means you'll want to have a pocket full of treats when you first introduce your dog to their new pack. Some dogs will accept the pack like it's no big deal and you will hardly need to spend any time conditioning them to wear it. But other dogs may be a little more skeptical or flat out nervous about this strange thing you are attaching to them, so it doesn't hurt to take your time and make it a great experience.
Step 3: Get your dog used to new balancing & space awareness The first thing your dog is probably going to do is try and walk through a doorway and run into the door frame. In fact, they will probably run into a lot of stuff the first time they wear the pack. They have to get used to the new edges of their body. Keep the experience fun with lots of laughter and rewards just for walking around your home with the pack on. Then, head out for a walk with the pack empty. Give your dog plenty of opportunity to get used to wearing the pack, as well as having it put on and taken off, without any weight in it.
Step 4: Increasing weight and improving fitness The next step is slowly increasing how much weight your dog carries and ramping up conditioning. Just as you wouldn't one day wake up and run with a 50-pound backpack, your dog shouldn't wake up and start running with a heavy pack either. Start with a small amount of weight, maybe 2-3% of your dog's body weight, and build up from there over the course of a few weeks to carrying as much as, but no more than about 20% of the dog's body weight.
Step 5: Hit the trail and have fun! Once your dog is conditioned to carry a backpack filled with necessities, you're ready to hit the road! Or sidewalk, or park path, or trail as the case may be. Remember to watch your dog for signs that the backpack is not rubbing them in the wrong place, and that they aren't fatigued from the extra weight.
With a properly fitted pack with just enough weight for your dog, neither of these should be an issue. But if there are areas where the straps are rubbing away your dog's fur, or your dog lies down during your walks to rest, it's a sure sign that it's time for you to carry the pack the rest of the way home.
After a couple of exercise, the dog will suddenly learn to be carried in the backpack. It will be an exciting experience when other people see you carrying your dog at your back. Starting from you, all people will soon start using the dog backpack carrier.
At times, it becomes necessary to carry the puppies rather than leaving them walk around. Other times, dogs get confused when in a crowded area or they get hurt. All this can be solved by employing a dog backpack carrier. Carrying the dog at the back allows the hands to be free while the dog is protected.
Since the dog is strapped, one requires placing the puppy in the backpack strap it and positioning it in the carrier at the back. You can buy a carrier that has the color and size of your choice depending on your budget. They are water tight and stainless implying that they remain clean for a long time. The designer backpack can be employed in cars and some people expend them in flights.
One can also use a backpack carrier that can make their dog unique from the rest. The dog backpack carriers also assist small dogs from getting tired easily. This allows them to be with you anywhere you go. When using the carrier, you can ride around comfortably while the puppy enjoys the trip.
The carriers are effective in carrying old dogs. One also requires spending time with their old dogs. The backpack is light hence it does not feel heavy when carrying the dog inside. They can sit or stand for their solace. Other than dogs, the carriers can be employed to transport other small animals like rabbits, cats among others.
The dog carriers are easily found in the cyberspace and pet stores. There are a number of factors to be considered when selecting a pet carrier. Ensure the carrier has enough ventilation to keep air moving in. It should also have room for simple movements. Keep the pet safe all the time.
First of all, there are no "wrong" hand signs, you can use whatever you feel most comfortable with, as long as you are consistent. There are a few basic obedience signs, but not enough to truly communicate with your dog. The advantage to using these is that most people who have trained a dog will be able to give your dog basic commands.
This can be an advantage because anyone who knows ASL will be able to talk to your dog. Some people use modified ASL, so that they can hold a leash in one hand and talk to the dog with the other. Some people make up all their signs, you will probably still want an ASL dictionary, as it can be a challenge to invent signs with nothing to go on. Most people end up using a combination - obedience signs, and then one handed ASL. Anything you choose is "right" for you and your dog. The examples and ASL suggestions given on this page are just that, examples. Feel free to use, or not anything given.
Using signs instead of words The major difference in training a dog with a hearing impairment versus training a "normal" dog is the fact that they will not be able to hear your commands. One of the best ways to combat this is to teach your dog to react to signs. American Sign Language is one of the easiest languages to learn and will greatly benefit you and your dog. It will give you a language that both you and your dog can learn in order to communicate properly.
No matter what technique you use to get your deaf dogs attention, the idea is the same - teach him as many signs as you can in order to effectively communicate what you want them to do, whether it be to sit, stay or roll over.
Just as dogs can learn many different words and phrases they will be able to learn many different signs and combinations of signs. This means that your deaf dog will have just as much means of communication with you as any other dog would!
DEAF DOG HAND SYGNALS Dog hand signals is yet another great way to teach your dog commands. Since dogs understand gestures and body language better than spoken word, training a dog to pay attention to hand cues is not that hard. Plus it is especially helpful if you or your dog is deaf.
"Good dog!" You can use the ASL word for "Good," or a "thumbs up" or anything else that feels comfortable to you. To teach it, sit with your dog and a handful or so of really tasty treats. Use your "good" sign, and give the dog a treat. Repeat this several (approximately 3 to 10) times. Then give your sign and see what happens. If she looks at you as if to say "well, where's my treat?", she understands! Give her the treat.
"No" is probably the most overused word in dog training. It is better to tell the dog something that she can do, rather than just to yell "no" all the time. For instance, if your dog jumps on you when you get home, what does telling her "no" do? Well, she knows that you aren't happy when she jumps, but she doesn't know what to do instead. So she tries something else and gets another "no." This could go on for quite a while as she tries to figure out what the proper greeting behavior is (and your dog could get the idea that you don't like her very much). It is far easier on both of you, to tell her to "sit" and skip the "no" part altogether.
You need to tell the dog what is "right," and "constructive criticism" will get you there a lot quicker. So teaching no is a little less precise, since all that it really means is "stop." Most people end up teaching at least 2 versions of no, one for minor problems, and one for big problems. The first one is for "No, that's not what I want," and just means to cut it out, do something else. You can shake your head and close your eyes, cutting off eye contact, to reinforce your disapproval. The second no is more serious. "Stop" means you are in really big trouble, and should be accompanied by a very "mean" face and angry body language. This one should be used only after the first has failed, since if you overdo it, it won't be a "big deal"
Teaching a "Release" Word Teaching a release word is also important. If you do not tell your dog that it's OK to move or do something else, he will have to decide on his own. Obviously, if you are teaching your dog to "stay," this is not a good thing, but it comes in handy at other times as well (such as when it is "OK" to go out the door). It is a fairly simple thing to teach. Whenever you finish practicing one thing, sign "OK" before going on to the next. When you end a training session, sign OK, and then put away the treats. "Leave It" is a way to tell your dog that he cannot have whatever it is he is looking at. To teach it, hold a treat in one hand, open palm (if you sign your release word with your right hand, hold the treat in your left, and visa versa). Sign "leave it", and when the dog tries to take the treat, close your hand and turn it over. Do not pull your hand away or raise it up high. The dog will probably nose or lick your hand, or maybe paw at it. When he gives up and turns away, even for a second, sign "OK" and let him have it (still don't move your hand either forward or back or lower). As you practice, your dog will realize that he cannot have the treat unless you tell him that he can. Eventually, you will be able to hold a treat right under his nose and he will not touch it. Once he knows that, you can sign "leave it" regarding other things as well (such as food on a coffee table). You will need to practice, starting slow (such as putting food on the floor, then on a table, and so on), but this behavior usually transfers well.
"Walk Nice" Dogs are taught unintentionally to pull on the leash. Whenever they are taken for a walk, they pull, and their person follows along behind, so the dog think that is what a walk is. It is easier to teach a puppy with no bad habits how to walk nice, but an older dog can be taught too. Teaching your dog to walk nice on a leash is often easier to start training off leash first. Start with a handful of treats, and while out playing, reward your dog every time she walks next to you. As she starts to do it more often, introduce a sign. Once she seems to be doing well at that part, introduce walking on the leash. After she will walk nice in the back yard, try walking on the sidewalk. Dogs that have already learned to be very determined pullers can be controlled by using a head halter. There are several manufacturers, but all work basically the same way.
The principal is the same as a horse halter - when the dog pulls, her head is turned and her body must follow. A small person is able to walk a large strong dog using one of these. Your best bet is to find a trainer to help you learn how to fit and use them, as most dogs will object at first - much like they did when first introduced to a leash and collar. Some dogs will not adjust, and something else will need to be tried, but most will get used to it. The only real drawback is that a lot of people will think that your dog is wearing a muzzle. There are many other ways to teach a dog not to pull. Two of the most common are to stop moving whenever your dog pulls, eventually, she will come back to see why you are not moving, or to turn and go the other way when your dog pulls. Sometimes your best bet is to talk to a trainer for help, as some techniques really need to be demonstrated to be effective. Regardless, your dog can be taught to walk nicely, it just takes practice.
Dog Hand Signal for SIT: Teach your dog to SIT by using a quick flip motion of your hand from palm facing down to palm facing up. With your dog in front of you and a piece of kibble in your hand by your side, bring your arm up to a 45 degree angle, with your palm facing downward. Next flip your palm up and move your hand slightly over your dog's head. Because your dog is following your hand holding the kibble, his bottom will hit the floor. As soon as he sits also use the verbal command SIT and reward him with the kibble. Continue to practice using verbal cue and gesture for 3 times. On the fourth time do not say SIT, just use the hand signal only and your dog should comply. Alternate times you offer a treat reward so your dog learning to respond to the hand signal and not just to get the reward.
Dog Hand Signal for STAY : Teach your dog to STAY by raising your arm up straight and palm facing forward. Once your dog is in the SIT position, hold your palm in front of his face and say STAY and take one step back. If your dog does not move go back to him and give him a treat reward. Start again but this time take 2 steps back. If your dog still does not move, go back and reward him again. Now go 5 feet away and raise your arm up with your palm facing your dog and say STAY. Wait for a count of three and if your dog does not move, go to him and hand him his reward. Next time take a few steps away from your dog and give the hand signal only - walk a few more steps away and show the gesture once more. Wait for a count of 5 and if your dog remained in the Stay position, go back to him and say good stay and give him a well deserve treat.
Dog Hand Signal for COME : Teach your dog to COME by using a sweeping motion with your right arm going across your chest to your left shoulder. Have your dog in front of you and at least 3 feet away. Next, with your hand by your side, show your dog that you are holding a piece of kibble in between your index finger and thumb. Next sweep your arm across to your opposite shoulder and say COME, and at that exact moment take one step back. Once your dog comes towards your praise and reward him with the treat and begin again. Repeat the steps above for 3 more times. If your dog successfully complies, on the fourth time do not say COME. Just use the hand command and reward your dog when he complies.
Dog Hand Signal for DOWN : Teach your dog to lie DOWN by bringing your arm straight down, pointing to the floor. Have your dog sit in front of you. With a piece of kibble in your hand, slowly squat down while lowering your arm towards the floor. Say DOWN while passing the kibble in front of your dog's nose. One he goes DOWN praise and reward him. If your dog does not go DOWN, while you are in the squatting position, place the kibble up under your leg and as soon as your dog goes down to get it say DOWN and then reward. Continue the entire process from a sit to down position for 5 times. Be sure to use the down command and treat reward to mark the successful action. On the sixth attempt, do not use the verbal cue. Just motion your dog to the down position and treat when he complies.
Dog Hand Signal for HEEL : Teach your dog to HEEL or walk nicely next to you by using a lowered arm motion and a pat to your leg or hip. In an open area of a large room or outside, begin by slowly walking around with a treat in your hand and your arm lowered to your side. Lightly pat your hip or upper thigh and say HEEL. Your dog will follow you closely to get to the treat. This one will take some practice so plan on having lots of treats available. You can also teach this command on leash, too. After several successful heel positions have been achieved, step 2 feet away from your dog and tap your hip. Your dog will assume the heel position for his reward.
SEND DOG somewhere with this sygnal This is great for teaching a deaf dog if you want him to go somewhere, i.e. a kennel or mat, or to fetch something. You can also use it for "sending" the dog if you are working on agility.
Thumb Up! Just like for people, you can use this sign to mean "good," or "yes." Since they can't hear a clicker, this can be a great way to "mark" when your dog does something right.
Okay Sign This is another sign you can use to as a replacement for "good" or "yes." Remember to also have positive facial expressions that help your dog understand you are happy.
Finger Pointing Down This is the most common sign for telling a dog to "lie down." Like the one for "sit," it's natural to do and easy to remember, which is important!
Hand Flat Out You can use this symbol for "off," or to teach your dog a "stop" or "freeze" cue. Just remember you can't use it for both, so decide in the beginning and stay with that decision. You will really confuse your dog if you try to switch the meaning later.
Time Out Symbol Although not commonly used in dog training, you could use it for "leave-it," "drop," or "quiet." The nice thing about this sign is it is clearly different from the others, making it less confusing for your dog.
Hand Out This is usually used as a cue to get your dog to "shake" or "high-five." However, for a deaf dog, you may use it to mean "come to me" or "bring me your toy" as well.
Two Fingers Pointed at Eyes You know the hand-to-eye signal the use in comedies to say "I am watching you"? Well, you could use this same gesture to get your deaf dog to "watch you", i.e. give eye contact.
Call Me Another uncommon signal, this one would be cute for a recall or "watch me" cue. Again, it's a nice symbol to use because it doesn't look like the others, make it easier on your dog to learn.
The easiest way to teach advanced tricks is to clicker train your dog. The idea is that the clicker tells your dog that he is on the right track in learning a skill. It means you can be a distance away from your dog and reward exactly the behaviour you want in a very precise way.
You can click a slight eye movement in your dog for example. There is no ambiguity in what your dog is being rewarded for. Clickers allow you to shape behaviour, which essentially means encouraging and rewarding closer and closer approximations to the behaviour you want. The clicker should always be paired with a treat, your dog needs to know that whenever you "click" he will get a treat.
You can buy special dog training clickers, or use anything that makes a consistent noise. To pair the clicker and the reward simply click, wait 1 second, then give your dog a treat. Repeat this around 10 times until your dog understands that a click means he gets a treat. Now you are ready to use clicker training for some advanced skills.
Rewards A reward is usually a treat, but can also be play or praise. Treats are often used to really motivate dogs and are quick and easy to administer. You can use any treat you like, but try to stay away from those with lots of salt, fat and preservatives. That said, some dogs are not that food motivated, so it can be difficult to find what they like.
Sometimes very small cubes of cheese will work, though in large quantities they can give a dog an upset stomach due to lactose intolerance. Small pieces of BBQ chicken also work for those fussy toy breeds. It also helps to train when your dog is hungry, so do a short 10 minute session before breakfast or dinner.
Having a trained dog isn't the same as having a balanced dog, but if your dog knows a few basic commands, it can be helpful when tackling problem behavior, existing ones or those that may develop in the future. So where do you start with dog obedience training? You could take a class, but it's not necessary - you can do it yourself. In fact, with the right attitude, it can be fun for both you and your dog!
Sit! This is one of the easiest dog obedience commands to teach, so it's a good one to start with.
Hold a treat close to your dog's nose.
Move your hand up, allowing his head to follow the treat and causing his bottom to lower.
Once he's in sitting position, say "Sit," give him the treat, and share affection.
Repeat this sequence a few times every day until your dog has it mastered. Then ask your dog to sit before mealtime, when leaving for walks, and during other situations where you'd like him calm and seated.
Come! This command can help keep a dog out of trouble, bringing him back to you if you lose grip on the leash or accidentally leave the front door open.
Put a leash and collar on your dog.
Go down to his level and say, "Come!" while gently pulling on the leash.
When he gets to you, reward him with affection and a treat.
Once he's mastered it with the leash, remove it and practice the command in a safe, enclosed area.
Down! This can be one of the more difficult commands in dog obedience training. Why? Because the position is a submissive posture. You can help by keeping training positive and relaxed, particularly with fearful or anxious dogs.
Find a particularly good smelling treat, and hold it in your closed fist.
Hold your hand up to your dog's snout. When he sniffs it, move your hand to the floor, so he follows.
Then slide your hand along the ground in front of him to encourage his body to follow his head.
Once he's in the down position, say "Down", give him the treat, and share affection.
Repeat it every day. If your dog tries to sit up or lunges toward your hand, say "No" and take your hand away. Don't push him into a down position, and encourage every step your dog takes toward the right position. After all, he's working hard to figure it out!
Stay! Before attempting this one, make sure your dog is an expert at the "Sit" command.
First, ask your dog to "Sit."
Then open the palm of your hand in front of you, and say "Stay."
Take a few steps back. Reward him with a treat and affection if he stays.
Gradually increase the number of steps you take before giving the treat.
Always reward your pup for staying put, even if it's just for a few seconds.
This is an exercise in self-control for your dog, so don't be discouraged if it takes a while to master, particularly for puppies and high-energy dogs. After all, they want to be on the move and not just sitting there waiting.
Leave it This can help keep your dog safe when his curiosity gets the better of him, like if he smells something intriguing but possibly dangerous on the ground! The goal is to teach your pup that he gets something even better for ignoring the other item.
Place a treat in both hands.
Show him one enclosed fist with the treat inside, and say, "Leave it."
Let him lick, sniff, mouth, paw, and bark to try to get it and ignore the behaviors.
Once he stops trying, give him the treat from the other hand.
Repeat until your dog moves away from that first fist when you say, "Leave it."
Next, only give your dog the treat when he moves away from that first fist and also looks up at you.
Once your dog consistently moves away from the first treat and gives you eye contact when you say the command, you're ready to take it up a notch. For this, use two different treats: one that's just all right and one that's a particularly good smelling and tasty favorite for your pup.
Say "Leave it," place the less attractive treat on the floor, and cover it with your hand.
Wait until your dog ignores that treat and looks at you. Then remove that treat from the floor, give him the better treat and share affection immediately.
Once he's got it, place the less tasty treat on the floor, but don't completely cover it with your hand. Instead hold it a little bit above the treat. Over time, gradually move your hand farther and farther away until your hand is about 6 inches above.
Now he's ready to practice with you standing up! Follow the same steps, but if he tries to snatch the less tasty treat, cover it with your foot.
Don't rush the process. Remember, you're asking a lot of your dog. If you take it up a notch and he's really struggling, go back to the previous stage.
DOG BRAIN TRAINING This article proudly presented by WWW.WISHPONY.COM and WWW.DOGICA.COM
Albert Einstein once said, "if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid." When it comes to the discussion about dogs and their intelligence, this notion speaks volumes: dogs are bred to be good at certain things. For hunting dogs, this means they use their noses to track animals over miles and can even be taught how to not damage the kill in its mouth. Medical alert dogs can be trained to sense a seizure before it happens and to even retrieve medication for their owner. Guard dogs can be taught how to defend their home from intruders and protect the ones they love. Are any of these dogs smarter than the other? Maybe a better question is, what defines intelligence?
They say an intelligent dog has the mental capacity of a two-year-old human child. On some levels, this is impressive: children of that age know and understand many words and are capable of learning lessons, but can a toddler be taught how to herd a hundred sheep, or how to guide a blind person through a busy city street? Probably not. When it comes to determining the smartest dog breeds, many factors must be taken into consideration, including inherited traits, training, a dog's bond with his owner, and the different types of intelligence measured in our canine companions. This article will also discuss the top ten smartest breeds recognized by a dog behavior expert, dog IQ tests you can perform at home, and finally, whether you should consider getting a highly intelligent dog for your family.
Should I get a smart dog? Many prospective dog owners consider intelligence when shopping breeds of dogs for their family; some believe that smarter automatically means better, while others are convinced that potty training will be easier for a smart pup vs. a not so smart pooch. If you are in the market for a dog, however, you may want to reconsider getting a highly intelligent dog: dogs that rank high on the IQ scale often rank high on the misbehavior scale as well. A bulldog, for example, may be content to sleep on the couch all day and only begrudgingly goes for his daily walk. A Border Collie, on the other hand, would not fair well being left at home all day with no interaction and minimal exercise. Smart pooches that are not challenged (much like children) will often result to destructive behaviors and even deteriorate mentally if not given ample opportunity to exercise his body and mind.
When you are searching for a forever friend, the most important thing to consider is your family's lifestyle: how much time will you have to devote to Fido? Who will take him on daily walks? Do you have a large yard? If not, where will he get exercise? Also don't forget about the intelligent pup's mind: how will you make sure that his smarts are being put to good use (and not mischief)? Owners of smart dogs find that doggie puzzles work wonders, while others enroll their pup in a therapy dog course so he can be taken to hospitals and nursing homes to bring joy to the residents (and fulfillment to Fido). Others find their dogs excel at agility, tracking, lure coursing, and dock jumping.
Whether you have a pup that is the smartest dog on the block, or have a pooch that is more cute than clever, remember that the most important thing between a dog and his owner is love and care. At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter whether your dog has an IQ like Einstein or Frankenstein, but what really matters is the joy he brings into your life, so be sure to treat him like family no matter what.
Cultivate a desire to learn Tell your dog he is clever, smart, a genius. Get him so greedy for praise that he will work hard to learn what you want. You do this by putting your dog in a situation where you know he will perform a behavior on his own, then you ask for that behavior and praise extravagantly when he does it. A natural place to begin this is when you know your dog or puppy has to pee, after sleeping, eating, or being inside his crate. You take him to the right spot and give the command. When he inevitably obeys, you praise him until he is fully excited and pleased with himself. You have now cultivated in your dog the habit obedience and reward. With young animals and horses in particular, you will achieve superior results by asking very little in the beginning so your dog enjoys a high rate of success and minimal correction.
There are other rewards which can strongly motivate a dog. If you require your dog to perform a behavior before an event he strongly desires, he will more actively try to figure out what you want. An example is to have your dog bring you his leash before leaving for a walk or his dish before being fed (teach him to present it properly, sitting before you with the dish in his mouth-heavy dishes dropped on your feet can be rather painful). Make your dog feel needed. When he has learned to fetch, ask him for help when you drop something and cannot reach it easily, then be extremely grateful when he hands it to you. Teach him to put waste paper in the trash and then deliberately toss and miss so he can put it in for you. As always, shower him with gratitude so he will want to do it again.
Teach your dog English (or any language you prefer) While dogs cannot speak, they are capable of learning words and understanding and acting upon those words in different contexts. Our border collies average about 20 minutes time to learn a new word and one of them knew over 100 words before he was a year old. We start teaching our dogs from puppyhood, but it is never too late to begin. When you bring home that puppy, even if you considered yourself a sensible individual, it understandable to begin speaking funny words to it in high pitched voices (we are perfectly guilty of prattling). However, this is the ideal time for your dog to begin learning English as a second language and you will be so proud as you watch him develop. With better communication your dog will be able to learn tricks faster, help you around the house or farm, and much more. There are many ways to teach vocabulary. Here are a few tips. You will find increasingly more methods to teach your dog as his vocabulary and your understanding of his thinking grows.
Use repetition.When you begin to learn a new language, you do so by repeating words and phrases until they become familiar. Announce events and activities to your dog, using the same phrases such as "Let's go outside!", "Do you need to go paper?" or "Are you hungry?". We like to tell our dogs "I'll be back soon." when we leave a room. This allows them to relax and wait instead of anxiously trying to follow. Say "Good morning!" and "Bedtime!" and announce meals.
Name the rooms of your house. Give your rooms names such as: My Room, Auntie's Room, Kitchen, Big Room. Announce the room when you are going to it with your dog. He will soon learn the names and run ahead. You will eventually be able to tell your dog "Take this note to John. He is in the Study".
Name objects. Name toys and any objects you want your dog to handle. Show your dog a toy and say "This is Stinky". You then touch the toy, shake it, encourage him to grab it while saying "Where is stinky?" When he grabs it, you shout "There is Stinky!" If he has learned to fetch, you then tell him "Bring me Stinky." Point at the toy or poke it if necessary to get him to pick it up, then praise him extravagantly. You will probably need to repeat this and any other new word or behavior for a few days before it is solid in his memory. The more object names he learns, the faster he will learn new ones. Eventually, your dog may hand you the remote control or join the the search for lost keys.
Name people. Give everyone in your house a name that your dog can easily recognize: Mummy, Auntie, Grandpa, Uncle George. Teach your dog the names by saying "Go to So-and-so" and have that person immediately call the dog. Make sure So-and-so is attentive or your dog will end up responding to "Call him!" as a command to go to the other person. Learning names is useful because your dog can learn to deliver notes and objects from one person to another and save you from shouting across a big house.
Break up commands into many parts. A command such as "Fetch" can be broken down into "Go get it", "Pick it up", "Bring it", and "Give" or "Drop it". You can then combine these words with others to form new behaviors.
Play hide and seek. Show your dog his favorite toy and then hide it and say "Where is Bunny?" Keep asking "Where is Bunny?" until he finds it. Try it with all his toys one at a time.
Show contrast. To understand a word, your dog also needs to understand what the word doesn't mean. To know what qualifies as "In the trash" he has to know that dropping a paper on the floor next to the trash won't do.
Start from the goal. When teaching a complex behavior, starting at step one may seem logical, but starting at step 10 will accomplish it faster. Make the objective clear immediately. If you want your dog to learn to close a door the objective is the door clicking shut. Start with the door only slightly ajar. When he can close it by pushing one inch, open it a little wider. (Complete steps for this trick will be provided in a separate article.) Teach him to drop things in the trash while he is standing with his mouth over the basket where he cannot miss then gradually increase the distance.
Tell your dog facts relevant to his daily life. Show your dog objects that are forbidden such as chocolate and tell him it is bad. He will learn to be wary of forbidden things. We also taught our dogs the word "Hot" by touching hot bowls of food ourselves and pulling our hands away yelling "Hot!" Then we let them sniff it closely to feel the heat. They now wait patiently when we tell them their food is still hot and move considerately around us when we say we have hot tea.
Music can make your dog smarter Music lessons have been proven to improve children's performance in school; it has the same effect on dogs. Learning to recognize songs and melodies is an effortless exercise that improves the memory. Dogs are attracted to the same elements of music that please children so we sing a lot of nursery songs to amuse our boys. Their faces light up when they hear a song they know and they bark along to certain songs. They are also fond of hand motions to act out songs which they memorize and bark along even if we do the motions without singing. Dogs are also capable of recognizing and enjoying classical music both live and recorded. Pat your dog in rhythm to a symphony and he may learn to tap his tail to music. Use songs to announce events regularly. "Happy Birthday!" can be sung as "Happy baff (bath) day to you!", "Here come the bride" can become "Here comes the food".
The lyrics of dog name You can also change the lyrics for your dog's name to please him. Ludwig is named after Beethoven and he likes to hear his nickname Luvie-Wuvie sung to the tune of Beethoven's 5th symphony or Eccosaise. For Wolfgang, named for Mozart, we changed the military march from the Marriage of Figaro to sing "Wolfie poo on the paper" and Cherubino's aria to have the words: Good dogs get treat! Bad dogs get beat! Good dogs get dinner Bad dogs get thinner
Is punishment ever appropriate? Punishment, which for the purpose here we will define as force or coercion, can range from verbal reprimand, to a painful jerk on a choke chain or pinch collar, to using an electronic shock. It's anything that the animal dislikes or wants to avoid and it decreases the behavior being punished. While punishment can be effective in some situations, it is generally a more advanced technique and can have many side effects. People tend to use punishment indiscriminately because it's the first thing that comes to their mind. That is, they use punishment because they are not proactive enough to reward good behavior and prevent rewards for bad behavior. As a veterinarian, my job is to recommend the techniques that are safest to both animal and human and that are effective. Consequently, I do not recommend punishment as general approach to training because other safer and equally or more effective techniques are available. When punishment is used, it should be used with full knowledge of the potential side effects so that they can be avoided or remedied if they do occur. Here are several considerations when deciding on whether punishment is appropriate.
In general, punishment should only be used after the handler has a strong history of reinforcing the good behavior so that the pet has an alternate appropriate behavior it knows to perform. Punishment should only be used as a way to buy time to reward the good behavior frequently enough so it becomes a habit. In general my recommendation is that if punishment is used, it should be used for one specific behavior and an alternate behavior should be rewarded 50x to every punishment.
Punishment can cause the other pets in the household to become anxious and fearful. Although the punishment may not be directed at them it may still scare them. Since it's not related to any behavior that they can control, meaning they have no way to predict when or prevent it from occurring, they are likely to become more anxious.
Punishment must be strong enough to get a clear reaction and so that the animal does not habituate to (adapt to or get used to) the force used. The problem is that this can also cause injury to the animal if it's too high. And it can cause anxiety if the timing is not right or the owner doesn't consistently punish every single time the bad behavior occurs.
Generally negative punishment (removing the reward for bad behavior) and positive reinforcement are easier to perform and more effective than using force (positive punishment). Both require the same timing, but as you'll see, positive punishment may require more strength and more speed.
Punishment can cause animals to become more aggressive and aroused. For instance, animals are often scared when threatened with punishment and may become defensive when they can't flee. When animals are fearful of being hurt, they can run, freeze or fight. If running or freezing doesn't work, then they are more likely to fight.
Reward a Canine with a treat!
STOP DOG BITING This material proudly presented by Copyright 2011 Dog Training Institute.
If you wish attack dog training you should be aware that you will be clinically and economically responsible for any damage that he does to somebody when it assault them. Legal courts have revealed holders to be accountable for harms to the wounded party even if a thief or somebody goes onto your home and he attacks them.
Attack dog training comes with a huge duty. When you want to possess a correctly skilled attack dog, people look for a dog that has been taught by an expert who can show them the way to render instructions to him normally. It requires dogs with especially steady personality to be great attack dogs. Or else he may not be dependable and could cause damage. You can conform to the procedures below when you would still love attack dog training.
Employ an expert security dog instructor. This instructor will aid you show him fundamental behavior instructions. You need him under full control constantly. Dogs performing attack move are by no means in madness. They are operating under full control continually.
Your dog should be trained to be moderate to new person along with other pets. So, he should not be excessively welcoming or harmful to others. This needs him with soothe and constant character who is not effortlessly triggered. He should disregard other people and animals except if you render him the demand to communicate with them.
You will manage your dog's bite work dealing with the expert instructor. You can begin with a bite stick and various other items and graduate to dealing with an individual putting on a bite suit. Initially, he should be on leash for this training and you can change to carrying out off the leash. Show him to bite at the arms and legs of the suit. This is the most effective way to end a burglar.
Show your dog to react to one word instructions to assault and to stop the attack. You will require making use of the similar instruction always.
You and your dog can change to replicating attacks through using somebody putting on the bite suit. Exercise providing him the demand to attack and treat him when he attacks as commanded. Once he produces and prevents the attack as commanded, reward him and treat him. After he views you getting assaulted by the individual in the bite suit, proceed to training him to attack. Anytime he notices you in problem, he will have to discover that he is anticipated to protect you. He must figure out how to act upon his personal notion that you need assistance.
To begin with, you can teach him for attack work and aspire to accomplish great outcomes when you make use of the expert instructor to teach your dog and you own a dog that is a great prospect for security dog work. You will have to strive with him to accomplish dependable, constant outcomes. He could be damaging to you and to others when he has an unpredictable character. It is crucial that you look for an effective dog for training and to complete the training that you begin. Dealing with a great excellent instructor can create a huge distinction in the way he ends up as an attack dog perfectly.
The thing I discover regarding dog leash training is that there are no difficult and accelerated guidelines. Many take to a collar and leash effortlessly and a few do not. Various owners need to put them on a leash when they have them and many may not place them on a leash for a couple of months. An important function of launching a leash is persistence, peace, self-esteem, getting it gradually and utilizing means to get over whatever worries or issues from him.
Initially, you require a collar and a leash to have your dog strolling on a leash. Feels like an apparent move, however there are numerous various kinds available. To have your dog acquainted and used to a collar is the initial move. You will need to prevent issues and circumstances where your pup could get worried, afraid or even possess a mood tantrum. Simply connecting a collar as well as a leash can perform this.
Therefore, place the collar on anytime there are any other things that will inhabit his thinking and he has to consider. Connect the collar anytime your pup is heading out to be in the garden with you as well as in the house once you are getting him. Place it on tight, yet not quite close that it is awkward and annoying. Simply put, he should overlook it as you are obtaining his interest and socializing to bring his thinking off the putting on of the collar.
Place it on at mealtime or when you are starting many fundamental dog leash training. Speedily he will start to take the sense of the collar and leash and you can subsequently go on to the following phase. Something to watch out for is if he marks at the collar. Get his understanding and inspire him to merely conform to you or have him to fool around with a toy so he leaves the discomfort when he performs this.
Permit him run around pulling the leash once connecting the leash. Constantly, you should be managing this in order to prevent a potential tangling. Additionally, it assists to possess an additional dog around to take part in play while the leash is on. Have fun with him or proceed through many enjoyable dog leash training regimen when you own no other dog. Sometimes collect the leash and call him to you anytime he is performing this and appears secure. Perform it lightly and inspire him to appear to you. Once again, goodies are awesome; however constantly ensure they are not huge goodies that he subsequently uses time eating.
Do not try to have him to stroll at heel yet when carrying the leash initially. Of course it is awesome when he performs that; however do not be lured to pull on the leash to have him to perform so if he does not. Try everything quietly and lightly. Occasionally, simply standing even or kneeling down while he discovers what is occurring is a great thought. Render him duration to work this all facts as to what the leash is and does. Allow him build self-esteem in you, then in the leash and himself. Also, you can utilize a treat kept in your hand down with you at his head degree to have him walking together with you on the leash, and then sometimes make him stop and sit for the treat.
Many dogs can sit and determine never to step. For a lot of pups with issues, plus those without them, the collar and leash can be a slight limiting and can make challenge in your dog. Many may walk together with you and not leave you off leash; however they act in a different way anytime they have a leash on.
Spend some time and be chronic in what you perform to accomplish the outcomes you need. Eventually, the little actions get the huge ones you look for even when the outcomes are simply a little move in the direction of what you want to accomplish. You will discover your dog recognizing the leash speedily and ultimately he will start to walk well on it too.
There are so many dog treats on the market it can sometimes be difficult to decide what are the best dog treats for training. As with food we put into our own bodies, over the last few decades people have become increasingly aware of the health and nutritional contents of what we give our dogs. There are still many dog treats on the market that are full of salt and additives that are bad for your dog. Below is a list of important factors to consider when selecting a dog training treat.
1. Size One of the important factors in choosing a training treat is the size of the treat itself. During any given training session your dog could easily consume in excess of twenty treats. As many breeds have a tendency to put on excess weight, you should be wary of the size treat you are giving your dog each time. Remember the size of the treat itself is not what matters to your dog, it is simply the reward of getting a treat at all. As a dog trainer, I recommend that the treat be no bigger than the size pea, and possibly even smaller for small breed dogs. You can either choose a treat that is small enough as is, or you can break a larger treat into smaller pieces.
2. Consistency There are two main choices in a dog training treat; moist/soft treats vs. hard biscuit type treats. Moist treats are easier to break into pieces. In addition, some small breed dogs and puppies find it easier to chew a soft treat. It is important that the consistency of the treat does not cause your dog to need to do excessive chewing, which then takes time out of your training sessions. Moist treats also tend to be the most flavorful.
3. Ingredients It is important to check the nutritional information listed on the back of any dog training treat you choose. Treats that are made with no additives, preservatives, artificial colors or flavors are always the best choice. These added ingredients are not good for your dog's health, and can cause stomach upset. You also want to be mindful of the salt content. Salt is not good for dogs, and many commercial treats you find in the grocery store have a lot of salt added. You should also avoid treats that contain corn. This is typically used as "filler" in dog foods, and it is not particularly healthy for your dog.
4. Flavors Most training treats come in a variety of flavors. Which you choose makes little difference, as long as your dog really likes them.
5. High Value Treats When a dog trainer refers to something as a "high value treat", they mean something that is very special that your dog does not usually get. Regular training treats do not normally fall into this category as these are things you might frequently give your dog. If there is a training or behavioral issue that you are really struggling with, it is a good idea to use a "high value treat" to really motivate your dog. I would typically recommend, small pieces of chicken, meat or sausage, cheese or peanut butter. It is important to choose good quality food. If you would not put a particular brand in your own body, you should also not give it to your dog!
6. Treats for Dogs with Skin or Stomach issues Even if your dog suffers from skin or stomach problems, there are good quality training treats on the market. Choose a treat that is grain free, and is made from pumpkin or sweet potato. These ingredients are very gentle on the stomach, and have nothing in them that should irritate the skin. You could also choose a salmon based dog treat for dogs with skin issues.
7. Portability Another important factor to keep in mind when choosing a training treat is how easy it will be for you to carry around. Owners are often taking treats with them on walks, outings, or to the park, and so the treats should be an appropriate size and shape so you can put that treat in a treat pouch or simply in your pocket. Timing is everything when rewarding your, and if you are struggling to get the treat out and break it into an appropriate size, you may very well miss the moment and your dog will think they are being rewarded for something else.
8. Packaging Although you can always store open treats in a zip lock bag or airtight container, choosing a treat that comes in a bag with its own zip close top is always easiest! Moist treats tend to get hard very quickly when exposed to the air.
There are many good quality treats available on the Market. If you make sure to check the ingredients, the size and texture, and use the above as a general guide, it should be simple to find a treat that is healthy, flavorful and within you budget.
Even though we love our pets, their behavior sometimes needs improvement. It's never their objective to annoy! it's just that they haven't yet learned (or have forgotten) the proper way to act. If you believe your pet could benefit from etiquette lessons, know that it's not difficult to teach a dog or cat to behave better. To make the most of your relationship with your pet, teach good habits using:
Practice Once you decide on a behavior to focus on, give your pet plenty of opportunities to practice it. Try it at different times of day, in different situations, even in different locations around the house.
Praise Animals love to be adored and told how good they are. When yours masters a new habit, praise him or her in an enthusiastic voice. Use the pet's name and say how wonderful they are. Pat them on the head or scratch your pupil behind the ears as you praise.
Rewards Who doesn't like a cookie (even if it's in the form of a dried fish morsel, for a cat)? Accompany your praise with a treat. Even a small piece communicates how proud you are.
Important Habits to Learn ComeThe best time to teach a cat is before mealtime. Call her name right before you reach for the kibble or can opener. With repetition, she'll start to believe that hearing her name means to make a beeline for you. Away from the kitchen, call her name and have a reward like a sliver of tuna or chicken. Repeat. Similarly, with a dog you can use food and practice, praise and reward.
Go - When placed in a clean litter box, most cats figure out what to do. With a kitten, gently take her paw and use it to scrape the litter. If instinct doesn't take over, keep her in a confined space with the box until she uses it. Clean and repeat. With dogs, it's all about timing and crate training helps, too. And remember to praise and reward good behavior with enthusiasm.
Be a Good Traveler - Whether you need to take your pet to the veterinarian down the street, or on a trip around the world, good behavior can make travel less stressful for everyone. To keep your pet and others safe, make sure that you have an appropriate restraint or carrier for your pet. Make test runs to get your pet accustomed to leaving the house. On a trip, allow time to stop and provide water and a bathroom break.
Leave It - Pets are naturally curious, and dogs in particular are scavengers. To convince yours to give up something he finds that's toxic or potentially dangerous, teach him that the "Leave it" command is always followed by a tastier reward.
Don't Pull - Walking even a small dog can pull you off balance, so it's important to control your pet rather than the other way around. With the dog on your left, walk quickly, talking to the dog as you go. Stop, treat, and go and make every walk a training session until your dog consistently keeps pace with you.
Getting daily exercise - Your dog adores getting outside for a nice long stroll, and so should you. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends 150 minutes of moderate-intensity aerobic activity (like brisk walking) every week for adults ages 18 to 64, and for adults 65 plus with no limiting health conditions. "If you can walk two miles in 30 minutes, that's a pretty good pace," says Raul Seballos, vice chair of preventive medicine at the Cleveland Clinic. The best way to mimic your pup? Bring her with you when you walk. That's because dog walkers are 34 percent more likely to meet federal benchmarks for physical activity, a recent study found. If you'd rather swim, bike, or hit the gym, go for it, Just do something you enjoy.
Having meals reliably prepared and served. - When you feed your dog, you serve him using his special bowl, the same amount, every day. When you dine, you should control your own portions, too. "The last thing you want to do is put big serving dishes out,". That's because you'll likely keep eating (and overeating) from the dishes on the table just because they're there. A better solution? "Be aware of what you're eating and plan in advance,"
Some elementary obedience training causes dogs more pleasurable to be with and we are very mindful of that. It has some other, not so apparent obvious advantages - things a lot of us have no idea. Obedience training assists your dog view you as her chief, and in addition it provides her a psychological exercise. Someday, a few instructions can also rescue your dog's existence. Here you will find the fundamentals all dog should be aware. Here you will find how to have dog obedience training?
These 10 steps will take training simpler for you and your dog.
Fundamental instructions not just educate convenient expertise; they strengthen your character as your dog's chief. Among the simplest and most dog-helpful techniques is utilizing goodies to attract your dog in to the right place then to treat her for following.
Work out the fundamental dog training steps day to day for effective training. Hold training meeting brief. Your dog will witness each and every thing as a game, so hold him turned on by means of altering what he is aware. Exercise the instructions in a number of areas in order that he turns out to be familiar with reacting to you in a variety of circumstance. You can make use of the click method to assist with some other facets of your dog's training. Your dog will get the information speedily and react to love and benefits. Obedience training will assist in setting up a long lasting relationship around you and you will be taken care of with a pleased and very well taught dog.
When you soothe your dog anytime he whines, it may really create things more serious. It will take your dog believe he is being recognized for whimpering, and have him into the practice of repeating it for your love. You can assist your dog figure out how to stop crying through not heading out to him anytime he whines. Another dog training tips is through disregarding your dog, and just providing him interest and reward when he ends whimpering, he will discover that whimpering is not the option to secure your acceptance.
QUICK OBEDIENCE TRAINING
1. Remain consistent. Every time, utilize similar prompt for similar instruction.
2. Begin straightforward and slowly allow it to be more difficult. You want to go detailed and render your dog much exercise obtaining it well. Begin with an effortless instruction in a acquainted spot with no interruptions. Put space, timeframe, and disruptions when your dog is performing regularly. If you are wanting to put in another, hang around till your dog has perfected the present obstacle. Simply remove among the difficulties and attempt once more when she flubs it, heading out more gradually this time around..
3. Do not duplicate the instruction. It is not hard to do, however it shows your dog that she does not have to react quickly to the earliest demand.
4. As for attraction purposes to have your dog where you want her to go and benefits for following the demand, utilize food goodies. There are numerous techniques for teaching; however among the best is to utilize food treats. Consider providing communicative reward without having a snack, a preferred device, or a bodily incentive when your dog is not too keen in food.
5. Schedule it best. The reward and incentive must appear instantly as soon as the dog performs what you need when she is going to make the connection.
6. Make benefits erratic, next step them out. Through unstable incentives, dogs are more inspired. Hand out goodies just for the ideal reactions when your dog receives the concept of what you are requesting her to accomplish. Differ the kind, quantity, and regularity of the incentive subsequently. Ultimately, you can phase out the food benefits completely.
7. Ensure that it stays brief and nice. When it is enjoyable and you end earlier you becomes annoyed or discouraged, training will be best. Maintain the temper positive and have the periods brief.
8. Jumble individuals and locations. Apply having folks providing instructions in various settings when you want your dog to follow kids, wives, etc.
9. Hold your fun. Shouting, striking, or jacking your dog over through a chain won't show her the way sit or turn on demand. It will educate her that you are frightening and unstable, and that instruction is not enjoyable. Sensible, relaxed, constant training is the easiest way to get your dog to follow and value you.
10. Continue training. Do not anticipate that she will figure it out forever when your dog has learned things. She can shed her new expertise with no frequent training.
Training is vital! Training is also vitally important for blind dogs. Instead of just "heel," "sit," and "stay," you need to add commands such as "step up," "step down," "slow down," and "stop." Self-preservation helps the dogs pick up on those new commands, but you have to work at it, too.
Blind dogs can be trained, too, it just takes a little adjustment in your approach. Training a blind dog does not take any special skill or magic. Blind dogs are still dogs, and they are more than capable of learning.
Choose A Training Method So where do you start? Clicker training is a great method to use with a blind dog. The "click" makes a very short and concise noise that is easily distinguishable from anything else. Use the click to mark the exact moment that your dog does the right thing. Then follow this with a reward; most commonly a small, soft piece of food is given. The two easiest ways to teach a dog using a clicker are:
1. Luring: This is when you take a small, soft piece of food and use it to lure your dog into position. For instance, if you want to teach your dog to sit, take the treat and put it front of your dog's nose and then slowly move it up and over his head. As his head goes up to track the food, his rear end naturally hits the floor. When this happens, you want to "click," marking the exact moment your dog sits. You then immediately follow the click with the reward.
2. Capture: This is when you click and treat a dog for doing something on his own that you like. If you want to teach your dog to lie down, then click and treat the very moment he lays down on his own. If he continues to lie down, then click and treat a few more times while he remains down. With consistency, he will soon realize that lying down causes good things to happen. Soon, when you are around, he will begin to offer this behavior, hoping to get a click and a treat! With just a few adjustments you will find that training a blind dog is not really any different than working with any other dog. With patience and consistency, your dog will be learning all the things that you are willing to teach him.
BASIC TRAINING METHODS FOR YOUR BLIND DOG Obviously your dog that is suffering from blindness is going to be a poor candidate to train using hand signals. So you will want to teach your dog several verbal cues you can do this at home, however, if you are at all concerned or confused, you should enroll in a class or have private sessions with a trainer that has experience training blind dogs. You want to get this right as quickly as possible to reduce confusion for your dog. When using verbal cues, don't start adding them too soon when you are teaching a behaviour. Make sure the dog has performed it, usually using a food lure, at least 3 times before. Next, don't talk too much: talk to your dog, but don't narrate the whole world to the dog, or repeat a cue over and over again.
Keep your verbal cues simple. Use single word cues such as sit, down, lay, etc. Keep your cues consistent. Dogs who can see our faces or body language rely heavily on what they see when learning verbal cues. Sometimes they never truly learn the word but are responding to our body language. Blind dogs do not have that advantage, so we need to help them out by keeping our cues simple and precisely the same each and every time and finally, Consider using a unique sound. Instead of using words or hand signals, you can also use novel sounds for each exercise you teach your dog. A shepherd's whistle, a whistle that you can make different tones and sounds with, would be great for using with a blind dog.
BLIND DOG CLICKER TRAINING Training your dog using a clicker or any other audible marker sound - tongue click, whistle etc, can help them distinguish when they have done the correct thing. The clicker in dog training is used as a precise marker - saying yes, that is exactly what I wanted you to do and is the bridge between capturing the correct behaviour and the reward. For example - teaching the dog to sit using a lure.
With the dog in a standing position, take a reward, and place it in front of their nose. Gradually raise the treat up and take it from their nose over the back of the head - most dogs will sit in order to follow the treat. The second their butt hits the ground, the trainer clicks, and then follows up with the reward. The click to the dog, will indicate "Yes that's exactly what they wanted me to do - great now I'm going to get a reward".
This training utilizes clicking sounds to inform dogs that what they've just done is good. All you have to do is carry a compact plastic box. As soon as you see your dog eliminating in the grass during an outdoor walk, for example, press the metal tongue on the box. Voila, your dog will hear a clicking sound. Right after you click the box, reward your pet with a tasty treat. He will eventually develop a positive association with the click. Once your dog is responding to the clicker, you are ready to start!
VERBAL CUES FOR BLIND DOG
1. Name Game: - This is a great way to teach a blind dog to orient to you. Start with 10 small, soft treats. Say your dog's name and give him a treat. Repeat 10 times. Do this a couple of times a day over a period of two or three days. You want to see your dog get visibly excited when he hears his name. Next, when your dog is not paying attention to you, say his name. As soon as his head turns around and he is facing your direction, click immediately and follow with a treat. Soon he will respond and come to you every time he hears his name.
2. Come: - I teach this the same exact way as I teach a dog to respond to his name in the Name Game above. Not only can you teach this using the word come, you can also teach it using a whistle sound as your cue. This way you also have an emergency recall as well.
3. Sit: - Using luring, follow the same steps as described above.
4. Down: - Have your dog sit. Then take a small, soft treat and put it in front of your dog's nose. Slowly move your hand with the treat straight down between your dog's front feet. Letting your dog smell or even lick at the treat, hold it there until he crouches into a down. Click and treat. You can also capture the down as described above.
TRAIN BLIND DOG BY SCENT You can teach your dog to follow a track or trail on the ground, to air scent and to identify scented objects. All three can be taught simultaneously because they employ similar scenting skills. To teach scenting a track, you need some treats and a grassy area, such as a baseball field or park. Although hot dogs are not the most nutritious food, I find they work best, and you won't over stuff your dog's belly. Begin early; many people start by 6 a.m. before anyone has walked on the grass.
Have your dog sit or lay down and stay. Take a couple of inch-long pieces of hot dog and use your shoe to mash them into the grass. Make sure to crush the grass under the hot dogs, which will release a grass scent. Then, with the hot dog residue on the bottom of your shoe, walk a straight line away from your dog. Every six or ten feet, drop a piece of hot dog. Stop after about 20 feet and drop one of your gloves or one of your dog's toys; your dog needs to find something at the end of the track. Drop another piece of hot dog on top of the item.
Go back to your dog and release him from his stay, encouraging him to smell the ground where the hot dogs were. Tell your dog "Find it!" and let him sniff. If he begins to follow the track, praise him quietly by saying, "Good dog!" and let him lead the way. Don't be too enthusiastic or you may distract the dog from his sniffing. Also, don't try to lead him; let your dog figure it out. At this point, your dog is following several scents: the trail of hot dogs, which helps motivate him, the crushed grass where you mashed the hot dogs and the crushed grass where you later stepped. Your dog is also following your individual scent, which he knows well because he smells your scent every day. But now your dog is learning to combine the scents, to follow them and to find the item at the end of the track.
When your dog successfully completes this trick, make another one by taking 10 steps to the side. If your dog is excited and having fun, you can do three or four short tracks per training session. As your dog improves over several sessions, make the track longer, add curves and corners, and drop several items along the way, but put the hot dog only on the one you want him to find. When making tracks longer or adding curves, use small pegs, stakes or flags to mark the track so you can tell if your dog is off track.
Air scenting requires your dog to find someone by sniffing the scents wafting through the air instead of following a track. Most search-and-rescue dogs have both skills. they can follow a track, but if people walking over the track spoil it, they can also use their air-scenting skills. You will need another person to help find a spot with room to run and places for a person to hide, such as a field with trees. Hold your dog while the other person shows him a treat or toy. The person should playfully tease the dog to get him excited and then run away from the dog for a short distance. The person should then hide behind bushes or tall grass. Wait a few seconds, letting your dog watch and think, and then let him go as you tell your dog, "Find him!'' When your dog finds the person, he or she should give your dog the treat or toy and praise him enthusiastically.
When your dog begins to understand the game, you can make him more difficult. Have the other person run into the wind once and then with the wind so your dog has to use his nose and think through the problem. The person can run a zigzag pattern away from the dog or change hiding places once out of the dog's sight. Increase the difficulty of the challenges gradually so your dog doesn't get discouraged. When your dog becomes good at finding the other person, turn him away or cover his eyes so he can't watch the person run away. Then your dog really has to use his nose. Identifying scented objects can be taught much like tracking. Use a piece of hot dog to scent a particular object, such as a glove. Place the object on the floor or ground and send your dog to it. Praise your dog when he sniffs the object. Easy game, huh?
When your dog consistently goes to the object, scent it with a piece of hot dog and place it on the floor with several other different objects. But use tongs when placing the other objects so your scent is not on them. Send your dog, telling him "Find mine!" Don't say anything if he sniffs the wrong objects, but praise him when he finds the right one. Make training fun for your dog. Remember, you are trying to control a skill your dog has naturally. Use lots of praise, be enthusiastic and vary the training. If your dog has a good time, he will try harder and concentrate more.
There are many different types of classes available and activities that you can do with your dog but the first step should be finding a Kennel Club approved organisation. These will vary in types of classes and methods of training but all have to abide by the Kennel Club's codes of conduct. A training class is not there to train your dog. Its purpose is to teach you to train your dog so you will need to be committed to train your dog for short sessions (5 minutes) several times a day rather than just simply turn up for classes! This little bit of training everyday will be repaid with a lifetime of living with a well behaved dog. You will also learn to avoid problems before they begin as well as receive help to overcome any that you already have with your dog.
Before enrolling with a particular club contact them and ask if you can go to watch a class without your dog. This will help you decide if this is the right environment for you and your dog. Some clubs have waiting lists and you will need to book ahead, some accept people on a roll on roll off basis. Prices will vary from a joining fee and then weekly payments to a one off fee for a certain length of training.
What should I look for at a dog training club? Are you made welcome and are the trainers friendly and approachable?
Do the people and their dogs look as if they are enjoying the class?
Are the dogs focused on the task with their owner?
Are the instructors giving lots of encouragement and information? Are they helping the owners to correct problems that occur?
Are the instructors maintaining a safe, controlled environment?
Is everyone in the class receiving equal help as well as meeting the needs of the whole class?
Remember that a free for all group of puppies playing happily off the lead may seem attractive but can very quickly become out of hand and even frighten your puppy. The same applies to older dogs that certainly benefit from socialising and playing as a reward but only if they respond immediately to the owners command.
Before you make your decision ask the owners if they enjoy the classes!
DOG TRAINING OBEDIENCE AGILITY SCHOOLS AND COURSES This material proudly presented by WWW.DOGICA.COM
Skateboarding is an advanced trick that will truly get heads to turn. Make sure to get a big enough skateboard for your dog to be comfortable with all 4 legs on at a time, or else this trick will not work! Only try this trick if your dog is safe around a skateboard.
HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG SCATEBOARDING: Introduce the skateboard to your dog. Bring a skateboard inside, where your dog feels safe and secure, and encourage them to sniff and examine the board. Move the skateboard wheels, knock on the board, make noises so your dog can start to become comfortable with how the board operates.
Roll the skateboard back and forth. Watch your dog's reaction for any signs of fear and uncomfortableness. If you see any, stop and move back a step in the process. Praise your dog for any curious behavior. If he/she tries to get on the skateboard, safely secure it and praise your pup! You're pup is getting comfortable with the board!
Continue praising your pup for any curious behavior he/she shows the skateboard. Now you need to reward more directed behaviors from your dog. Offer more praise when your dog's paws are on top of the board. Reward and treat each time to associate the behavior with great things: treats!
In this step, you need to up the ante and begin rewarding every time your dog puts more than one paw on the skateboard. However, be sure to still reward when he/she puts one paw on the board, but now only every other time. Continue rewarding less over time. It's time to start rewarding your dog when he/she has more than one paw on the board.
Once your dog is comfortable with more than one paw on the skateboard, begin moving the board forward and backward a few inches to get your dog used to the idea of the board moving. Reward your dog as the skateboard is moving and their paws are on the board. Grab a stinky, tasty treat and hold it in your hand tightly. Allow your dog to lick and try to get the treat from your hand as you move the skateboard with your other hand. Remember, your pup's paws must be on the board. This action will help associate the greatness of the treat with the moving of the board. Work on moving the board up to 3-5 ft in distance while your dog's paws are on the skateboard.
Get your dog to stand on the skateboard. It's time direct your dog's behavior to the next step in the training. This time, reward when your dog is standing on the board with all 4 paws and intermittently reward when your dog puts 2 paws on the board. Be sure to stabilize the board so it doesn't move much. Your dog should work on getting all 4 paws comfortably on the skateboard.
Once your dog is comfortable on a stable board, begin using a command to have your pup hop on the skateboard. Using your chosen command, ask your dog to mount the board by themselves, without any assistance from you. Reward him/her when they successfully hop on the board by themselves.
Continue the previous step, but begin rewarding your pup from further away. Instead of tossing your dog a treat, make him come to you while on the board to receive the treat. Start close and as your dog masters pushing the skateboard, move further away. You have a skateboarding dog!
Dog Parkour (pronounced par-coor) is a military (human) based training discipline which combines running, jogging, jumping, climbing, swinging, vaulting, and rolling to quickly, efficiently, and most of all safely, finish an urban obstacle course. The objective is to maintain as much momentum as possible without failing the obstacle or injuring one's self.
Parkour is a holistic training discipline using movement that developed from military obstacle course training. Practitioners aim to get from A to B in the most efficient way possible. This is done using only the human body and the surroundings for propulsion, with a focus on maintaining as much momentum as possible while still remaining safe. Parkour can include obstacle courses, running, climbing, swinging, vaulting, jumping, rolling, quadrupedal movement, and the like, depending on what movement is deemed most suitable for the given situation.
Parkour is an activity that can be practiced alone or with others. Although it can be practiced in any location, it is usually practiced in urban spaces. Parkour involves seeing one's environment in a new way, and imagining the potentialities for navigating it by movement around, across, through, over and under its features.
Developed in France, primarily by Raymond Belle, David Belle, and Sebastien Foucan during the late 1980s, Parkour became popular in the late 1990s and 2000s through films, documentaries, and advertisements featuring these practitioners and others.
Parkour is becoming a recognised sport with events, competitions, and official teams around the world, although this is controversial as many practitioners are philosophically opposed to competition.
Parkour has been adapted to dogs, and is rapidly growing in popularity; therefore, we decided to innovate and offer dog owners a chance to learn, teach, and practice this awesome activity.
Canine Urban Parkour is by far the best physical and mental stimulation one can offer their pet!
Canine Urban Agility Urban Agility is a method of exercising your dog using public structural components and park furniture. Training with your dog to sit, trot along or jump over obstacles found in the urban environment helps with improving the dog's agility and providing positive mental stimulation for the dog. When trained positively, the dog should gain greater confidence with navigating these obstacles. Conversely, a bad experience such as suffering a fall can possibly take away a dog's confidence and engender fear.
So, you wish your doggy to enjoy his warm & comfortable, brand - new and perfectly choosen doghouse? Unfortunately, that warm and fuzzy feeling quickly dissipates once it becomes apparent that your pet wants nothing to do with the dog house. What to do? This is a scenario that happens all too often with new dog houses. If it's any consolation, don't feel too bad because you are not alone.
However, for those of you who have just spent $400 on an insulated cedar dog house with a personalized door plate, this isn't really the answer you were looking for. Chances are your thinking runs more along the lines of: sometimes it's OK for dogs to be indoors but at other times, they love to be outdoors and should be outdoors, even for sleeping. After all, dogs and their wolf ancestors happily lived outdoors for thousands of years. Some Dogs Respond to Living in a Dog House Better than Others. Realize that some dogs are more inclined to use a dog house than others because of their upbringing. For example, dogs that were whelped and raised by their mom in a dog house are patterned to it from day one and are therefore quite comfortable with living in a dog house. To such dogs, their house is their home and it represents security and good times with mom. This isn't to say that a dog house-raised pet will readily adopt a new dog house but it will be a much easier task to get her to accept the new house compared to a pet who has never used a house. And there are some things you can do to make the new house more familiar to your pet.
There is also anecdotal evidence to support the belief that certain breeds take more naturally to a dog house than others. Many Lab owners are convinced that labs are people-oriented dogs that really want to be inside with their families, not outdoors in a dog house. Of course, the situation gets murky because the dog's upbringing is always part of the equation. Much of it depends on how the dog has been raised. Alright, onto some specific suggestions for getting the dog to like the dog house. Some of these ideas are just common sense but they still bear telling.
TIPS ON GETTING DOG TO LOVE DOGHOUSE
Don't make your pet feel like she's being banished to Siberia. - Perhaps the worst thing to do with a new dog house is to put it in a remote area of the yard that is away from the familiar smells, sights, and sounds to which your dog has become accustomed. At least initially, give some consideration to placing the dog house closer to the area where her human buddies are coming and going.
Timing is everything. - Choosing an appropriate time of the year to put your dog outside can also be important. If you've been keeping your beloved pet indoors and then suddenly expect him to happily accept being stuck outdoors by himself in the dead of winter, don't you think there might be a little push back? Dogs require time to build up a tolerance for heat or cold so you are asking for trouble if you attempt to abruptly change the ambient temperature of their living environment.
Give your dog time to adjust to the new house. - Keep your expectations realistic. If you have been keeping the dog indoors at night, don't expect it to readily accept sleeping outside in a strange enclosure. If the dog is already an outdoors dog but has never used a dog house, or has an existing dog house that you wish to replace, it will probably take some time and persuasion to get him to adopt the new house. Patience grasshopper, patience.
Make the house intro a positive experience. - When you first introduce your dog to the house, spend some quality time with him. Maybe sit next to the house for a couple hours with your dog. If the house is big enough, you could even crawl into it yourself. Yes, some owners have success with this technique! The dog will be intrigued by this funny looking new object that his master seems to like so much. Also try using treats and familiar objects to lure the dog inside the house. Introducing your pet to the doghouse while you are around helps to reassure her that all is well when she is put there and that she has not been banished from the house or otherwise exiled.
Place familiar objects in the house. - To make the new dog house feel like a home, place something that belongs to your dog in the house. You know, something that he likes. This can be a favorite toy, a well-worn bone, a blanket with the dog's scent, his food bowl, your expensive shoes that he chewed apart, that dog face door mat from Aunt Matilda. Use your imagination. Get wild. You might even try placing some old clothes with your scent in the house. Although don't be offended if your dog drags them out, that's not unheard of.
Feed the dog in the house for awhile. - Some dog owners have had success introducing a new dog house by feeding the dog in the house. You could start by placing the dog's bowl just inside the doorway of the house so the dog can easily find it. Then, gradually move it further into the house so the dog is forced to go inside the house to chow down. You might even try hiding some dog bones inside the house. Eventually your pet will form a pleasant association between the dog house and eating and will decide that it's not such a bad place to hang out after all.
Make sure the house fits the dog. - If the dog house is too big, it won't feel like a cozy den to your pet. Furthermore, if the house is not heated, the dog must be able to heat the inside of the house with his own body heat. An overly large house defeats the purpose. Of course, if the house is too small for your pet to fit comfortably inside, that can cause problems. During the winter, make sure the house has plenty of clean, dry bedding into which your pet can burrow to stay warm and dry. You might even consider a heated pad as a further enticement to keep him in the house.
Give the dog a companion. - We all know that dogs are pack animals and like hanging out with others of their kind. If you have the desire and resources to acquire another dog, consider putting both of them in the same house - at least for awhile, to make it seem more like a snug pack den where they can keep each other warm. Having a companion will also help your dog feel like she hasn't been banished to the outdoors, she now has two "families" to hang with,an indoor one and an outdoor one.
I Tried All That But Nothing Works! Sometimes you try many different dog house introduction techniques and the dog still doesn't seem to like the house. What do you do then? Well, try to determine if the dog is suffering by not going inside the house. Many dog owners have observed that their pet will use the house only under extreme weather conditions, on days when it is extremely rainy, snowy, windy or hot. Dogs, like almost any other living creature, will seek out a safe comfortable place when the situation requires. The important thing is to make the house available to your pet so he can use it when he wants. Dogs innately know how to make the best out of being outdoors.
If your dog doesn't use the house even under severe weather conditions and is obviously suffering, then clearly a change of course is warranted. Perhaps its time to give the dog house to a friend and bring Fido back inside the house with the humans. Just follow your instincts, they are usually spot on.
Historically, Dog surfing has been documented as occurring in the 1920s in California and Hawaii.
Dog surfing involves dogs that are trained to surf on surfboards or bodyboards, either alone or with a human on the board.
Some dogs have been trained to ride a skimboard on the shore (after the board is initially skimmed by a human) and to windsurf with a human, and bodysurfing dogs have also been documented in surfing media. Additionally, some dogs have been trained to ride on paddleboards with people.
In the 1930s, a silent film titled On The Waves in Waikiki depicts Phillip K. Auna and Night Hawk, his terrier, surfing together on a wooden surfboard in Hawaii. The terrier was able to perform the hang ten surfing maneuver on the surfboard.
In 1944, a full page image of a surfing dog named "Rusty" was published in National Geographic magazine.
In the 1950s, UPI published a photograph of Joseph "Scooter Boy" Kaopuiki and his dog Sandy surfing in Hawaii, which was published in newspapers throughout the United States. During this time, they were also reported about on the television show You Asked For It!.
Dave Chalmers and his surfing terrier mix named Max, both from San Diego, California, were featured in several forms of media in the late 1970s through the 1980s, including surf movies and a television appearance on the show Amazing Animals.
Don't be fooled! Surfing with your dog - "IS NOT AN EXTREME SPORT! IT'S JUST EXTREMELY FUN!!!"
Trick training is a whole lot of fun for both you and your dog and you never know, with enough training, your dog could become the next big canine star!
1. Nothing in life is free You have to work for a living, so why should your dog get an easy ride? Aim to get a behaviour from your dog for anything they want in life. Want dinner? 'Sit' Want to go outside? 'Stay' Want dinner? 'down'. Obviously you will need to train these behaviours first, but following this is the easiest way to keep practicing with your dog and the best way to get them to associate doing things that you want them to do with getting things that they want.
2. Your dog is a simple being There is a lot of info out there on canine behaviour and cognitive processing, but unless you have a deep academic interest, everything you need to know can be boiled down to this: your dog will do things that feel good to it more and things that don't feel so good less, so...
3. Praise all good behaviours and ignore ones that you want to see less of. Do this all the time, even if you're not actively training.
4. Take responsibility for your dog's learning Everything your dog knows about how to behave, it learned from you. If your dog does something 'bad' take a newspaper, roll it up, and hit yourself with it - bad parent. Then think of a way to train for the behaviour you would have wanted to see from your dog in that particular situation and start working on it for next time.
5. If your dog is not doing what you are asking them, they're telling you its too hard It is very unlikely that your dog is trying to spite you. Take it one step back to make it easier, then try it again before moving forwards. Pushing your dog harder won't make what you're asking any easier to understand.
6. Have fun! This is too important to be saved for last. If you're having fun - your dog will have fun. Never work your dog without a clear head and if you get frustrated for any reason, stop and take a break.
7. Avoid negative corrections I say 'no' to Luna as little as possible and never when we're learning tricks. There will always be exceptions, but when your dog does something wrong, rather than scolding them - try to redirect them to a positive behaviour and praise them for doing it right. Imagine someone trying to teach you to use a new computer system and the only instruction you are given is being told off when you do something wrong. How much easier would it be if someone could just tell you what you should do.
8. Always leave your dog wanting more Train in short, regular sessions, every day if possible. Finish before your dog gets bored, while they are still excited about training with you. If you have a puppy, this is going to mean really short sessions
9. Train within your dog's comfort zone and set them up for success Don't expect too much too quickly from your dog. Just because they can do a trick in the living room, doesn't mean they can do it in the park. Start every behaviour at home, then start adding distractions and trying new locations.
10. End every training session with a win. If you've been working on something that's hard for your dog, make sure you end with a few things they know before you pack up and give them a great big fuss for being so darned clever!
11. Train your dog in a quiet, distraction-free environment This makes it easier for your dog to focus on just you. Once your dog has learnt the trick, you can move on to practising it in more distracting locations to ensure it's really sunk in.
12. Don't go out there empty-handed Take some dog currency! Just like people don't usually work for free, we shouldn't expect our dogs to either. Get the most out of your dog by training them using rewards like food treats or a favourite toy. The higher value the reward, the more impact it will have when you're rewarding your dog for their efforts. As your dog learns the trick, you can gradually reduce the amount of treats you give them but don't stop giving them completely.
13. Take it easy and work your way up Start off with simple commands before tackling more difficult tricks. Once your dog has learnt a few simple commands, you can think about "chaining" these together to create a sequence of tricks.
14. Keep training sessions short and sweet Teaching your dog tricks doesn't have to be difficult or time consuming. Short (yet regular) training sessions can actually achieve more than long tiring ones. Five minutes a few times a day is great, and always remember to end on a positive note.
15. The quicker the reward, the better. Reward the desired behaviour within two seconds of it happening. The quicker your dog realises they have done the right thing, the faster they'll learn.
15. Don't expect your dog to be a mind reader Show your dog what to do by using food to lure them into the position or place you would like them to be. If your dog isn't catching on, break the command up into parts. For example, to teach your dog to "wave" you might first hold a treat in your closed palm near your dog's forearm. Your dog will surely try to nibble the treat but hold it in your fist so that they can't get at it. Wait until your dog paws at it, as this is the behaviour you are looking for. Reward this by saying "good", followed immediately by the treat. Shape this paw movement into a wave by holding the treat higher and further away. Once your dog is performing the command consistently with your hand movements, it's time to introduce the command "wave" before you give the hand signal.
Need to train your dog? Have fun using this great app that works! Dog Tricks & Bark Machine is your ultimate portable Dog Trick training app. Photos and instructional text in Bark Machine were sourced from the popular dog training books: Maran Illustrated Dog Training & Maran Illustrated Puppies. These books were supervised by certified dog trainers that were members of the highly respected American Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Bark Machine includes a variety of amazing sounds designed to captivate your dog. Bark Machine is fully integrated with the Dog Tricks so that you can play any of these sounds while teaching your dog tips or tricks. Choose from Woof, Meow, Doorbell, Fire Truck, Clicker, Squeaky Toy, Door Knock or a high frequency Dog Whistle. Hours of fun ! Dog Tricks includes Basic commands, Games, Tricks, Tips on behavior issues, and a separate category just for Puppies! Also included is a section on popular dog breeds and a great "Photos" section. Impress your guests, friends and family and show off your smart dog today!!