NEVER USE A REMEDY / SELF-TREATMENT ON YOUR DOG WITHOUT BEING ADVISED BY VETERINARY PHYSICIAN
NEVER USE A REMEDY / SELF-TREATMENT ON YOUR DOG WITHOUT BEING ADVISED BY VETERINARY PHYSICIAN
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All images on DOGICA® pages used only as illustrations and respectfully belong to its legal rights owners !!! Find the author of any image with TINEYE tool If you are a legal rights owner and would like to add, update or remove your material. By using this site you are agree on: The information contained in or provided through DOGICA® site is intended for general consumer understanding and education only and is not intended to be and is not a substitute for professional advice.Use of this site and any information contained on or provided through this site is at your own risk and any information contained on or provided through this site is provided on an "as is" basis without any representations or warranties or pay.   DOGICA® Cookies Policy and Regulations
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DOG IS NOT A TOY !!! Consider hard if you can afford and love this wonderful creature during all it's life.
Be responsible for your dog, if you decide to take it ! Give it all your passion, time and love Know dog's strong and weak sides Know dog's path of thinking Know dog's deseases and cure it Help your dog to have happy life !
Remember: There are no any ways out of your life for dog !
Never give it for a present Never give it to a shelter Never kick it Never let it suffer Never bring it pain Never pass or rent it Never throw it away Never betray it Never kill it !
"You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed." "Tu deviens responsable pour toujours de ce que tu as apprivois." "Usted se convierte en responsable de lo que has domesticado" "Sie werden fur das, was du dir vertraut gemacht haben, verantwortlich" "Si diventa responsabile di quello che hai addomesticato" "The Little Prince" by Antoine de Saint Exupery
A puppy is a juvenile dog. Some puppies can weight 1.5kg, while larger ones can weigh up to 10.4 kg. All healthy puppies grow quickly after birth.
(c) by WIKIPEDIA
Development Born after an average of 63 days of gestation, puppies emerge in an amnion that is bitten off and eaten by the mother dog.
Puppies begin to nurse almost immediately. If the litter exceeds six puppies, particularly if one or more are obvious runts, human intervention in hand-feeding the stronger puppies is necessary to ensure that the runts get proper nourishment and attention from the mother.
As they reach one month of age, puppies are gradually weaned and begin to eat solid food. The mother may regurgitate partially digested food for the puppies or might let them eat some of her solid food.The mother dog usually refuses to nurse at this stage, though she might let them occasionally nurse for comfort.
At first, puppies spend the large majority of their time sleeping and the rest feeding. They instinctively pile together into a heap, and become distressed if separated from physical contact with their littermates, by even a short distance.
Puppies are born with a fully functional sense of smell but can't open their eyes. During their first two weeks, a puppy's senses all develop rapidly. During this stage the nose is the primary sense organ used by puppies to find their mother's teats, and to locate their litter-mates, if they become separated by a short distance. Puppies open their eyes about nine to eleven days following birth.
At first, their retinas are poorly developed and their vision is poor. Puppies are not able to see as well as adult dogs. In addition, puppies' ears remain sealed until about thirteen to seventeen days after birth, after which they respond more actively to sounds. Between two to four weeks old, puppies usually begin to growl, bite, wag their tails, and bark.
Puppies develop very quickly during their first three months, particularly after their eyes and ears open and they are no longer completely dependent on their mother. Their coordination and strength improve, they spar with their litter-mates, and begin to explore the world outside the nest. They play wrestling, chase, dominance, and tug-of-war games.
Socialization Puppies playing with each other Puppies are highly social animals and spend most of their waking hours interacting with either their mother or littermates. When puppies are socialized with humans, particularly between the ages of eight and twelve weeks, they develop social skills around people. Those that do not receive adequate socialization during this period may display fearful behavior around humans or other dogs as adults.
The optimum period for socialisation is between eight to twelve weeks. Professional animal trainers and the American Kennel Club advise puppies should be introduced to "100 People by 12 Weeks" and have encountered a wide and varied selection of people and environments.
Are you ready for the Puppy? Dogs are great fun and hugely rewarding, but owning one can also be costly and time-consuming. Are you ready to take on the responsibility? Puppies may be irresistible, but they are also extremely time-consuming. If you have never had a puppy, then you might not realize what you are about to get into. It's one thing to be ready to get a dog, especially an adult dog. Raising a puppy requires an even higher level of commitment. Young puppies need to be fed three to four times a day.
They need to be taken outside immediately after eating or drinking so they can eliminate appropriately and become house trained. Puppies will have accidents in the house while they are still being house-trained. That can mean a lot of clean up. A puppy might wake you up several times during the night. It might be because the puppy needs to go outside, or it might just be because the puppy is bored. A young puppy can't be left alone for more than a few hours. The puppy should stay in a crate when alone - this aids in house training and keeps the puppy from chewing up everything in your house. However, after a few hours, a puppy can't hold its bladder and sometimes bowels too.
Puppies can be destructive. They want to explore, chew, lick, and possibly even eat things in their environment. They don't know manners and may act unruly or hyperactive. All puppies need to be trained and socialized, they also need a lot of exercise. These things take a lot of time. Are you prepared to come home from work midday to care for your puppy? Can you handle being woken up in the middle of the night? Are you able to spend several hours a week working on training and socialization? What about any other pets or people in your home? Will a puppy be too disruptive? If you get a young puppy, be prepared to spend a lot of extra time with it, especially for the first few months. If this sounds like too much, but you still want a dog, consider adopting an adult dog.
47 Secrets to Know Before you get a Dog!
1. A dog is for Life! Owning a dog is a lifetime commitment. Animals develop deep bonds with you and your family. Any change in ownership can be extremely traumatic, so you should be prepared for the responsibility involved in dog ownership. Dog owners need to be able to provide shelter, food, water, medical care, and love and attention.
2. Buy your Dog Accessories in Advance Before you take your new dog home, make sure you have all the basic supplies. These include a dog collar, you should be able to put two fingers between the collar and the dog's neck, ID tag and rabies tag, a leash: four to six feet long, food and water bowls - steel, glass, or ceramic preferred, a comfortable dog bed, and toys.
3. Find a good vet for your dog Find a good loyal and trustful professional vet before you bring your pup home.
4. Training a puppy takes a lot of time and patience If you don't have the time to devote to a professional dog trainer, consider adopting an older, house-trained dog through your local animal shelter or on Petfinder.
5. What Kind of Puppy Is Right for You? First of all, decide what kind of puppy is right for you. Make a list of features or traits you must have, those you prefer, and those that you definitely do not want. How big or small do you want your dog to be? Small dogs often do better in smaller spaces. Food, supplies, and medications are more expensive for large and giant dogs. Do you want a dog that stays very active as an adult, or would you rather have one that will likely calm down in a year or two? How much exercise can you provide? Consider hair coat type as well. Are you willing to deal with shedding? Or, do you want a dog that sheds very little? Low-shedding dogs often need to make regular trips to the groomer. Can you afford this?
6. Create a safe home for your dog Dog-proof your home. Be sure to keep anything that may be toxic to your pet out of the reach. Key things to look out for are poisonous plants, plastic bags and chemical cleaners. If you are unsure call the Pet Poison Helpline.
7. A properly fitted collar should absolutely be on your checklist for your new pup There are many different kinds of leads you can get for walking, including head halters and harnesses - the best choice depends on each specific dog and his needs.
8. Absolutely get an identification tag for your pup and consider microchipping So you never have a chance of losing your best friend.
9. Your pup needs his teeth brushed, too! Make sure you include a toothbrush on your list of supplies before you bring your dog home, but NEVER use human toothpaste - ask your vet for a special canine toothpaste made just for your pup!
10. It's best to brush your buddy's teeth daily, the same way you brush yours But if your schedule doesn't allow that, be sure to brush his teeth several times a week.
11. Make sure to routinely check your dog's gums and teeth, too Her gums should be pink, not white or red, and her teeth should be clean.
12. Safe chew toys can help your pups dental health While also satisfying his desire to chomp. Safe chew toys can help your pups dental health while ALSO satisfying his desire to chomp.
13. There is a long list of plants that could be potentially toxic to your dog Including tulips, lillies, and chrysanthemums, so make sure you refer to this list when puppy-proofing your home!
14. Be wary of lawn and gardening products as well Insecticides and mulch can be harmful to your pup, too.
15. One of the first steps in bringing your dog home is scheduling an appointment to the Vet To make sure your pup has the proper vaccinations. Required vaccinations vary from state to state, so check with your vet to make sure your pup is healthy and up to date!
16. Make sure to factor time into your day for your dog to get enough exercise! Exercise needs vary from each individual dog, but it is recommended that healthy adult dogs need at least 30 minutes of aerobic exercise twice a day.
17. Dogs need to stay entertained! So get your pup a puzzle toy like the Kong to keep him busy, especially when he is home alone.
18. Laundry detergent can be harmful to your dog Especially the pods that can burst and get into their eyes, causing ulcers and infections like conjunctivitis. Stow these away in a safe place and watch what your pup gets into!
20. Other hazardous household items include fabric softener sheets, antifreeze, and mothballs Be sure to refer to the full list of hazardous items to make sure your home is totally puppy-proof!
21. Always check your buddy for fleas and ticks, especially during the warm months! There are flea and tick prevention options as well, so be sure to discuss those with your vet.
22. Know that heartworm is a parasite that lives in the heart, transmitted from animal to animal by mosquito Heartworm infections can be fatal, so be sure to discuss with your vet heartworm prevention options. There is a prevention pill that can be given once a month, which will protect your pet from infection.
23. Start training your pup as soon as possible! Dogs love to learn new tricks and training your new best friend will give you a reliable platform of communication. Consider signing up for training sessions, so a dog trainer can help guide you through the steps of making your pup an obedience PRO.
24. Be sure to consider proper nutrition when picking a food for your dog! Depending on her age, her nutritional needs will differ, but proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals are all essential parts of your dog's diet.
25. Every breed has different grooming needs Wrinkly dogs like Bulldogs have different grooming requirements than fluffy dogs, like Samoyeds. Figure out how much time you have to devote to your dog's grooming and do a little research before bringing a pooch of a certain breed home.
26. Get your pup used to having her feet touched because you will have to trim her nails If her nails get too long, they can break, which causes a lot of pain and can result in infection. Take it slow and be patient. Your vet and groomer will also be able to do this if you are nervous about doing it yourself.
27. Your dog's nails should just about touch the ground If his nails are getting snagged or clacking against the floor, they should be trimmed.
28. Bathe your dog when its needed! It's recommended to bathe your dog at least every three months, and possibly more often if he spends a lot of time romping around outdoors.
29. Winter is tough on your pup's paws - rock salt and ice melters can cause sores, infection and blistering If your dog licks his paws after stepping on these, he can ingest harmful toxic chemicals, so be sure to protect your pup's paws during the cold months. Try out little booties to protect his feet altogether.
30. Same goes for the summer months! Just like your bare feet on hot pavement, your pup's feet are super sensitive to heat, so be careful where he puts his paws.
31. Comb & Trim Paw Hair If you have a fluffy dog, be sure to comb and trim paw hair to prevent painful matting.
32. If you are beginning a new exercise program with your pup, start slowly His paws may be sensitive initially and could become chafed or cracked, especially when running or hiking.
33. Keep your dog's eyes gunk-free by checking them and gently swabbing with a cotton ball If your pup has discharge, redness, or constant runny eyes, he may have an infection, so keep an eye on him!
34. Those ears need to stay clean, too! The curvy design of a dog's inner ear lends itself to the development of parasites, bacteria and yeast. Floppy-eared breeds in particular are prone to these kind of ear infections. Your pup's grooming and maintenance schedule should include regular ear checks, but don't clean his ears so often that it causes irritation! Also note that frequent bathing and swimming can cause irritation as well, and never, ever insert anything into your dog's ear canal.
35. Your dog needs a warm and safe place to sleep
Consider getting a training crate or a dog bed, and you might even let your pup hop up in bed with you at night if you're looking for a cuddle buddy.
36. DO NOT leave your dog tied up outside If you are bringing a pup home, make sure he will have a place to stay safely inside your house. Tying a dog up outside threatens the dog's health and well-being and the safety of other animals and humans.
37. Keep the Pet Poison Control hotline in your contacts They are available 24 hours a day in case of an emergency, and will guide you through the necessary steps to keep your pet safe. They can be reached at (888)426-4435.
38. On hot days, it's best to leave your dog inside Even with cracked windows, a car can get dangerously overheated and leaving your dog outside for too long is harmful as well.
39. Make sure your dog always has access to fresh water and not from the toilet bowl! Change the water frequently to ensure freshness and clean the bowl every day to prevent the growth of bacteria.
40. Bowl with Weighted Bottom! If your dog keeps knocking his water bowl over, purchase a bowl with a weighted bottom!
41. Most of all, make sure you give your new best friend lots of love! Getting a dog takes time and patience, but the love that your new best friend will give you in return is worth every last second.
42. Costs According to the ASPCA, the annual cost of care for a small dog is $420, a medium dog $620 and a large dog $780.
43. Be sure to factor in extra costs when bringing home a pup Emergency vet visits can be costly, so consider that before you bring home your buddy.
44. Allow your dog to be social Socialize your dog early on. By exposing your dog to various people and environments, not to mention other dogs - it will become a more stable, happy, and confident animal. Be sure to continue socialization beyond the puppy years. Socialization reduces the likelihood that your dog could become fearful or aggressive toward other people and animals.
45. Be sure about your decision! Above all, make sure that getting a dog is a wise decision for you, your family and your living situation-not just now, but 10, 12, and even 15 years from now.
46. Always get your pet spayed or neutered Dogs who get this procedure live healthier and longer lives, and it prevents contributing to the already overwhelming population of animals who need homes.
47. Some day, all the Dogs go to the Rainbow over the Heaven. So make their life as good as you can!
According to the ASPCA, the annual cost of care for a small dog is $420, a medium dog $620 and a large dog $780.
But be sure to factor in extra costs when bringing home a pup. Emergency vet visits can be costly, so consider that before you bring home your buddy.
Keep the LOCAL Pet Poison Control hotline in your contacts. They are available 24 hours a day in case of an emergency, and will guide you through the necessary steps to keep your pet safe.
Training a puppy takes a lot of time and patience. If you don't have the time to devote to a little tyke, consider adopting an older, house-trained dog through your local animal shelter or on Petfinder.
Take your time if you are considering adopting a new dog. Talk with the staff at the shelter, make sure your new pup meets all the members of your household, and most of all, make sure you have the time and space to make sure your new buddy can live his best life with you!
Always, always, always get your pet spayed or neutered. Dogs who get this procedure live healthier and longer lives, and it prevents contributing to the already overwhelming population of animals who need homes.
Before you even bring your dog home, make sure you have all of the necessary supplies! This includes dog food, dog treats, bowls, toys, and a training crate.
A properly fitted collar should absolutely be on your checklist for your new pup. There are many different kinds of leads you can get for walking, including head halters and harnesses - the best choice depends on each specific dog and his needs.
Absolutely get an identification tag for your pup and consider microchipping, so you never have a chance of losing your best friend.
Your pup needs his teeth brushed, too! Make sure you include a toothbrush on your list of supplies before you bring your dog home, but NEVER use human toothpaste, ask your vet for a special canine toothpaste made just for your pup!
It's best to brush your buddy's teeth daily, the same way you brush yours. But if your schedule doesn't allow that, be sure to brush his teeth several times a week.
Make sure to routinely check your dog's gums and teeth, too. Her gums should be pink, not white or red, and her teeth should be clean.
Safe chew toys can help your pups dental health while ALSO satisfying his desire to chomp.
There's a long list of plants that could be potentially toxic to your pet, including tulips, lillies, and chrysanthemums, so make sure you refer to this list when puppy-proofing your home!
Be wary of lawn and gardening products as well. Insecticides and mulch can be harmful to your pup, too.
One of the first steps in bringing your dog home is scheduling an appointment to make sure your pup has the proper vaccinations. Required vaccinations vary from state to state, so check with your vet to make sure your pup is healthy and up to date!
Make sure to factor time into your day for your dog to get enough exercise! Exercise needs vary from each individual dog, but it is recommended that healthy adult dogs need at least 30 minutes of aerobic exercise twice a day.
Dogs need to stay entertained, so get your pup a puzzle toy like the Kong to keep him busy, especially when he's home alone.
Laundry detergent can be harmful to your dog, especially the pods that can burst and get into their eyes, causing ulcers and infections like conjunctivitis. Stow these away in a safe place and watch what your pup gets into!
Avocado, grapes, chocolate, garlic, and onions are all on the list of foods that are hazardous to your dog. To see the full list by the ASPA, click here.
Other hazardous household items include fabric softener sheets, antifreeze, and mothballs. Be sure to refer to the full list of hazardous items to make sure your home is totally puppy-proof!
Always check your buddy for fleas and ticks, especially during the warm months! There are flea and tick prevention options as well, so be sure to discuss those with your vet.
Know that heartworm is a parasite that lives in the heart, transmitted from animal to animal by mosquito. Heartworm infections can be fatal, so be sure to discuss with your vet heartworm prevention options. There is a prevention pill that can be given once a month, which will protect your pet from infection.
Start training your pup as soon as possible! Dogs love to learn new tricks and training your new best friend will give you a reliable platform of communication. Consider signing up for training sessions, so a dog trainer can help guide you through the steps of making your pup an obedience PRO.
Be sure to consider proper nutrition when picking a food for your dog! Depending on her age, her nutritional needs will differ, but proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals are all essential parts of your dog's diet.
Every breed has different grooming needs. Wrinkly dogs like Bulldogs have different grooming requirements than fluffy dogs, like Samoyeds. Figure out how much time you have to devote to your dog's grooming and do a little research before bringing a pooch of a certain breed home.
Get your pup used to having her feet touched because you will have to trim her nails. If her nails get too long, they can break, which causes a lot of pain and can result in infection. Take it slow and be patient. Your vet and groomer will also be able to do this if you are nervous about doing it yourself.
our dog's nails should just about touch the ground. If her nails are getting snagged or clacking against the floor, they should be trimmed.
It's recommended to bathe your dog at least every three months, and possibly more often if he spends a lot of time romping around outdoors.
Winter is tough on your pup's paws - rock salt and ice melters can cause sores, infection and blistering. If your dog licks his paws after stepping on these, he can ingest harmful toxic chemicals, so be sure to protect your pup's paws during the cold months. Try out little booties to protect his feet altogether.
Same goes for the summer months! Just like your bare feet on hot pavement, your pup's feet are super sensitive to heat, so be careful where he puts his paws.
If you have a fluffy dog, be sure to comb and trim paw hair to prevent painful matting.
If you are beginning a new exercise program with your pup, start slowly. His paws may be sensitive initially and could become chafed or cracked, especially when running or hiking.
Keep your dog's eyes gunk-free by checking them and gently swabbing with a cotton ball. If your pup has discharge, redness, or constant runny eyes, he may have an infection, so keep an eye on him!
Those ears need to stay clean, too! The curvy design of a dog's inner ear lends itself to the development of parasites, bacteria and yeast. Floppy-eared breeds in particular are prone to these kind of ear infections. Your pup's grooming and maintenance schedule should include regular ear checks, but don't clean his ears so often that it causes irritation! Also note that frequent bathing and swimming can cause irritation as well, and never, ever insert anything into your dog's ear canal.
Your dog needs a warm and safe place to sleep. Consider getting a training crate or a dog bed, and you might even let your pup hop up in bed with you at night if you are looking for a cuddle buddy.
DO NOT leave your dog tied up outside. If you are bringing a pup home, make sure he will have a place to stay safely inside your house. Tying a dog up outside threatens the dog's health and well-being and the safety of other animals and humans.
On hot days, it's best to leave your dog inside. Even with cracked windows, a car can get dangerously overheated and leaving your dog outside for too long is harmful as well.
Make sure your dog always has access to fresh water and not from the toilet bowl! Change the water frequently to ensure freshness and clean the bowl every day to prevent the growth of bacteria.
If your dog keeps knocking his water bowl over, purchase a bowl with a weighted bottom!
Most of all, make sure you give your new best friend lots of love! Getting a dog takes time and patience, but the love that your new best friend will give you in return is worth every last second!
Bringing Home a New Puppy ASPCA logo Bringing home a new puppy is truly one of life's joys. Thoughtful pre-puppy preparations and a well-planned first 24 hours can give your fuzzy bundle of promise a head start and make your dreams of the perfect family dog come true.
Before the Big Day Once household discussions have established that everyone wants a dog of a certain age and breed, where to get the pup-from a shelter or reputable breeder is more or less determined. Now, family meetings should cover scheduling:
Who will take the pup to the papers or backyard and when?
Who will be in charge of feedings three to four times a day?
Who will make veterinary appointments for vaccinations and deworming?
Also, take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use. If Mom says "down" when Puppers climbs on the couch, Dad says "down" when he wants him to lie down, and Junior utters "sit down" when he expects the pup's rear to hit the floor, the result will be one confused dog! Putting the schedule and vocabulary list in writing prevents confusion and will help dog walkers, nannies, and others involved in raising Puppers.
Next, draft a shopping list and purchase supplies: food and water bowls, chew toys, grooming supplies, bedding, collar and leash, identification tag, crate, gate, and odor neutralizer. Pre-puppy shopping allows you to order from wholesale catalogs or visit the pet superstore in the next county without the pressure of Puppers needing it right now.
You will need to puppy-proof the area where the youngster will spend most of his time the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate and installing gates. Once you think you have completely puppy-proofed, lie on the floor and look around once more to get a puppy's eye view.
If you have children, hold one last meeting to lay down the rules: Don't overwhelm Pup the first day, and don't fight over him or create mob scenes showing him to the neighborhood. Now you're off to get Puppers.
Getting Off on the Right Paw When you pick up your pup, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new brand to three parts of the old for several days, then switch to equal parts and then one part old to three parts new.
From the start, consistency is important. On the way home, Puppers should ride in the back seat, either in one person's arms or, preferably, in a crate or carrier.
It's around day two of life with a new puppy that most people start to ask themselves, "what the hell have I gotten myself into?". When you bring a puppy home, you are suddenly faced with obnoxious puppy behavior like whining, biting, jumping, chewing, and pooping on the carpet. And if you have done any research at all, you know that proper care and training is critical during a puppy's first few months. The things your puppy experiences now are going to affect him for the rest of his life. No pressure, right? Between managing the puppy's destructive tendencies, worrying about stuff like vaccinations and socialization, and dealing with well-intentioned but often incorrect advice from friends, family, and TV shows, a puppy parent can get a little overwhelmed. So here are some bite-sized puppy tips to get you through the next few months.
1. Get a crate. It makes housetraining incredibly easy.
2. Let your puppy sleep in your bedroom, at least for the first few nights. This whole experience is scary for a pup. Don't make him sleep in the laundry room. Put the crate next to your bed so you can reassure him.
3. Baby gates are your friend. Use them to keep the puppy out of places you don't want him to destroy.
4. Supervise, supervise, supervise. If you cannot watch him like a hawk, he needs to be in his crate or in his "room," see below.
5. Set up a puppy room for when you can't supervise. Pick a small area like the bathroom or kitchen, block it off with baby gates. Add a bed in one corner and pee pads or a dog "toilet" in another.
6. Pick a potty spot. If you don't want Sparky pooping all over the yard as an adult, pick one area and take him directly there when it's potty time.
7. Set a daily routine. Housetraining proceeds more smoothly if your puppy knows what to expect from her day.
8. Enroll in a puppy class. Your pup will learn some basic obedience, but the real benefit of puppy classes is socialization with other puppies and people.
9. Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Not all advice is good advice. Take everything with a grain of salt. And please, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, stay away from Yahoo! Google Whatever Answers.
10. Make sure everyone is on the same page. Discuss the puppy rules with your whole family. Figure out who will do what when. Pick one set of training cues and stick with them.
11. Play some puppy training games. The rule used to be that you didn't start training a dog until he was six months old. You couldn't take a puppy any younger than that to an obedience class, primarily because the harsh methods that used to be the standard are too.
12. Don't encourage behavior that you will regret when he gets big. Jumping up is cute when he weighs ten pounds. It won't be cute when he's 60 pounds.
13. Get your pup used to handling from day one. Touching feet, nails, tail, ears, mouth, teeth, and belly with love. Your vet will thank you.
14. Start grooming early on. For the same reason as above.
15. Let your puppy meet at least two new, friendly and gentle, people every day. Socialize & Share world with your pup!
16. Take your puppy to the petstore. Great socialization opportunity. Keep her in the shopping cart and off the floor until she's had all her puppy shots.
17. Introduce your pup to all kinds of novel things. People in funny hats. Remote control cars. Kids playing. Agility equipment. Balloons. Cats. Car rides.
18. Socialize, don't traumatize! Introduce new experiences slowly and never let your puppy get overwhelmed.
19. Invite friends and family to meet-the-puppy parties. Set yourself or visit the great friendly PUPS PARTY, together with your little pooch.
20. Frozen wet washclothes and baby carrots make great chews for teething puppies. Treats, Treats, Treats....
21. Reward good behavior, don't wait for bad behavior. Bad habits die hard... Reward the puppy when you see him doing something you like. Don't wait until he's misbehaving to give him attention.
22. Avoid the dog park. In addition to putting your undervaccinated puppy at risk for disease, most dogs at the dog park are quite rude by canine standards. A couple bad experiences could ruin your puppy's opinion of her own species.
23. Feed 2-3 small meals per day. Don't leave food out for her to graze on.
24. Pick up anything you don't want to be destroyed. Destroyed completely or partially or even cosmetically!
25. Get your puppy microchipped. It's your best chance at being reunited with your dog if he ever gets lost. You can get this done for around $25 at your vet or local shelter.
26. Focus on what you want, not what you don't want. For example, teach your puppy to sit when greeting people. Don't just yell at her for jumping up.
27. Watch your puppy's poops. Disgusting? Yes. But it could save your puppy's life. If you notice anything like diarrhea or blood, take your puppy for a vet visit ASAP.
28. Provide toys. If you provide her with her own toys, she's less likely to chew on yours - ha! Yeah right. It's worth a shot, though.
29. Make your own toys. Like kids who'd rather play with the box than with the toy that came in it, puppies are usually happier chewing on an empty plastic water bottle than an expensive store-bought toy.
30. Rotate through the toys. Let your puppy have two or three toys at a time. Changing up the toy selection will keep Sparky interested.
32. If you think your puppy needs to go potty at all, don't hesitate to take him outside! You'd be surprised how often puppies need to go sometimes.
33. Practice separation. As tempting as it is, don't let Sparky be glued to your side all day. Letting your puppy have time to himself in his crate or room will help prevent separation anxiety.
34. Hellos and Goodbyes should be no big deal. Don't make a fuss over your pup when you leave or come home. Again, prevents separation anxiety.
35. Don't get offended when your puppy chews on you. Puppies bite. Sometimes painfully. It is NOT aggression. Do not react by yelling, smacking him, rolling him on his back or holding his muzzle shut.
36. Don't use ammonia-based cleaners. Your puppy will think it smells like urine and it will actually encourage her to pee there again. Use an enzymatic cleaner like Nature's Miracle.
37. Visit the vet. Take your pup for a visit when she doesn,t have an appointment. Bring some treats and ask the office staff to give her some. Make the vet's office a fun place! Call ahead first to make sure this is OK.
38. As a general rule of thumb, the number of hours a puppy can "hold it" is his age in months plus one. So a two month old puppy should be crated for a maximum of three hours at a time, during the day. When they sleep at night, puppies can usually hold it for longer.
39. Leave the TV or radio on when you leave your puppy home alone. For entertainment, enjoyment & boredom lack.
40. Teach good leash manners early. Better to teach your puppy to walk nice on leash than to teach your adult dog to stop pulling on leash.
41. Remember that your puppy is a baby - don't ask too much of her. Don't worry about whether she will perform a perfect sit / stay or heel. Plenty of time for that when she's older. Focus on socialization and having fun.
42. Take lots of pictures! Puppyhood goes by SO fast...
43. Be prepared for your pup to become an obnoxious little brat around age 6-10 months. Adolescence is even more challenging than puppyhood. Have fun with your teenage dog!
Everyone loves puppies and especially that wonderful puppy breath. But did you know that most new owners do almost everything wrong to begin to train their puppy? Unfortunately, people view puppies as small dogs, and they are not, they are babies. Puppies have certain needs to not only be trained, but needs related to their food which must be high quality, needs related to their ability to fit into our human world and needs to be comfortable with everything in our human world. Up until the time you get your new puppy, their entire world pretty much consisted of their litter mates and the area where they were kept by the breeder. The first things owners want to do of course is to have their puppy potty trained, then right behind that is dealing with the biting and nipping that all puppies do. Among new puppy owners there is a common thought process about the problems of potty training and biting and nipping that complicates an otherwise easy process, because this thought pattern confuses the new puppy. But these arguments are truly based on misconceptions. I do think in some cases a calm, polite, persuasive presentation of a reasonable position can explain the misunderstanding to some readers, if not the main combatants.
MYTH: Dogs and wolves are the same While dogs and wolves share a common genetic connection, that is where it ends. Dogs have evolved over thousands of years to be partners with humans and interact with naturally in ways that wolves do not even with extensive training. Two great examples: dogs can follow a human's pointing gesture and often "ask" people for help - wolves do not without specific training.
MYTH: I am sure the last time I had a puppy it was not this much hard work This is what's known as selective memory. The last time you had a puppy was 15 years ago giving you plenty of time to try to block out the memory of all that chewing, mouthing, weeing and pooing!
MYTH: My new dog of the same breed will be just like my last one Just like two children from the same family will be alike in some ways, they can be completely different in others. So while Johnny and Susie both have blue eyes, one might be easy going and the other very stubborn. Two dogs from the same breed can be very different too.
MYTH: Dogs Don't Understand Dogs communicate very well, if you will listen to them. But they can also shut down. Dogs communicate continually. Most positive dog training is built on teaching a communication method with your dog. The most common is clicker training. I prefer using word markers - words that have a meaning to my dog's. Keep the words short, and keep the meaning consistent. I use "good" to mean I want that behavior. "Yes" means the behavior is good and we want to keep moving. The most important communication style for dogs is body language. When you learn to communicate with your dog training is easier, behavior problems often disappear, and you will have more control over your dog's actions.
MYTH: Never Train a Puppy! This was true when people used choke collars and punishment. They could break a puppies spirit very easily. Even today some trainers believe in waiting till a year old. If you do, make sure you continue socialization and mental stimulation. Do not let the puppy run the house. We have started training puppies at 6 weeks, and older than 1 year. We could not spot any difference in the dog's behavior. The dogs that burn out and stop competing at 3-5 years old may have other attributing factors. Maybe the handler stopped viewing the sport as a "game" and became more interested in the ribbons. Play is vital to dogs. Their strongest motivation is play, so when the game is no longer a game then they don't want to play anymore. This has nothing to do with the age you start training.
MYTH: Obedience is forever Dogs do not learn like we do. They learn through association. We can read a book and remember it. Dogs need repetition. A well behaved dog is a process. Dogs learn what we teach them. Dog training should be part of the dog's life, not just a "once a week" outing. Dogs need more mental stimulation than most people think. They can survive without it, but they may develop bad behaviors. The best way to keep your dog happy is to play daily, exercise, and keep teaching new "good" behaviors.
MYTH: Never Punish a Dog Dogs do not need pain. But if you are patient, persistent, and communicate with your dog you can train it without punishment. This doesn't mean punishment doesn't work. The trick is using a balanced approach. When you are training a dog, turning your back, or withholding a treat can be seen as a punishment. Dogs need boundaries, they need to know what is right, and what is wrong. But they don't need pain to learn.
MYTH: Training for Treats is not Real Training The fact is, once you take the "ego" or personal preferences out of the way, food is just another training aid. Real training for sports dogs, working dogs, or service dogs, all depend on motivators. The choice of a motivator needs to be based on what that particular dog loves. If your dog goes nuts for a ball, then use a ball. If it will "stare you down' to get a kibble, than that is the best motivator for that dog.
MYTH: I know my dog doesn't listen, but he is just a puppy While it's true a young dog's attention span and ability to retain information is limited, I am always surprised how old people think a dog has to be responsive for training. While it would be nice to have a mature focused dog to work with, the reality is your dog should start training at an early age to ensure you are not only educating your dog, but also preventing your dog from falling into behavior patterns you eventually regret.
MYTH: Private training is ok for older dogs, but puppies need puppy socialization classes Your dog can socialize at a dog park at the many dog parks in the NCR. Only in the case of aggressive dogs do I believe it should be in an obedience class, and if you do, ensure you have a training school that can handle your dog and takes the safety of the other clients in consideration. Obedience classes should respect a small amount of clients to be able to cater to their needs.
MYTH: Dogs with black tongues have Chow Chow in them FALSE: There are over 27 breeds of dogs that have the birth mark of black on their tongues, including but not limited to purebred Golden Retrievers, purebred Labrador Retrievers, purebred German Shepherds, and more. Actually Chow Chows have black & purple tongues, so the likelihood of maybe some chow in a dog is possible when there are purple tongues, however, it could also be Shar Pei. Black on the tongue of a mix is not uncommon and you should consider the temperament of the dog rather than the color of the tongue.
MYTH: Always wipe your dogs' feet after a walk in winter TRUE: The de-icers used on the walks and streets are harmful to your dogs feet and in some cases can be toxic and if the dog licks it's foot, be ready to head to emergency - it's always safter to wipe the feet than to ignore it. And remember to keep your dogs toenails trimmed.
MYTH: Dogs humping means they want to have sex FALSE: A warm nose is no indication if a dog is sick on not. BUT lethargy, runny nose, lack of appetite, light or white gums, not drinking, do and you should get your dog to a vet asap.
MYTH: When a dog scoots it means a problem FALSE: While intact males may do this as a way of natural procreation, most often it is a form of dominace and will be done by females as well as males. It merely tells another dog that the humping dog is more dominant and superior.
MYTH: Dogs like hugs and kisses Not necessarily. Whilst there are dogs that do accept hugging and kissing, others simply tolerate our human show of affection whilst others simply don't enjoy our "human" greeting protocol at all. Dogs can be desensitised to our hugs and kisses, but to assume that all canines like how we physically show our affection can put you and the dog in an awkward situation.
MYTH: Dogs See in Black and White It was once believed that dogs could see only in black and white - and shades of gray. Many people still think this is the case. There is no evidence behind the origins of this myth, but it may have to do with old science. It could be that scientists came to the conclusion that dogs see in black and white before they fully understood the canine eye or even the human eye for that matter, and the functions of cones. Dogs can see color, but not the way most humans do. Based on the types of cones in the canine retina, dogs probably see colors best on the blue side of the spectrum. Canine color vision is thought to be similar to red-green colorblindness in humans, though not exactly the same. It is believed that dogs see primarily in blue, greenish-yellow, yellow and various shades of gray.
MYTH: To Teach Your Puppy Not to Nip, Yelp When He Does It Some dog myths are eye-rollingly stupid, but this is not among them. Watch littermates at play; if one nips hard or otherwise gets too rough, his play partner may yelp and briefly break off the interaction. It seems reasonable and natural to try to communicate with our puppies in the same way - the yelp is familiar and they will understand it. Except that for a significant percentage of our Puppalinis, the human yelp seems to have exactly the wrong effect. You yelp, and Puppy Excitable reacts by making a big thought balloon of YAY and nipping you again. Harder, because apparently that squeal was just such a thrill. Why is this so? It's been suggested that human yelps sound like prey, but as far as I know nobody has ever done a sound analysis comparing human yelps with the cries of animals that dogs might actually eat. As long as we are guessing, my guess is that among puppies, the yelp is part of a whole communicative package that includes body posture and facial expression.
A yelp on its own might be like a single syllable without the rest of the long word it belongs to. As for replicating the rest of your puppy's body language, go look at yourself and him in a mirror to see why this is a lost cause. Some canine signals do translate - direct eye contact, for instance, is a threat behavior between dogs. Most pet dogs appear to have learned that human stares are not a threat, but plenty of skittish dogs will bark and lunge if your gaze lingers on theirs. For your nippy Puppalini, though, try a calm "Oops" and immediately fold your arms, go still, and look away for a few seconds. And preempt nips by offering her a legal chew toy to mouth whenever you play with her.
MYTH: If a Dog Sits on Your Foot - He is Dominating You Really, there is no end to the number of dog behaviors that human beings have decided are signs of a palace coup: barking, sleeping on the sofa, rushing out the door, chewing the remote, licking your face - Don't these all strike you as kind of, oh, indirect? Like, if the dog wanted to dominate you, why not just go for the throat? But no, instead he sticks with symbolic gestures. "I choose comfortable places to sleep, therefore I rule!" Are your eyes rolling in your head yet? I hope so. Anyway, a houseguest mentioned the foot-sitting business last week: news to me! My dog was sitting on her foot at the time, grinning his fool head off while she scratched behind his ears.
Bless my guest, she didn't buy the dominance notion for a single second. She knows a lap dog when she sees one, and she knows that when the dog weighs 75 pounds "lap" is defined very broadly, to include any part of the human body he can get next to. Even dogs who don't care for petting often seek proximity and contact. They lean on us, they sleep in our laps, they sit or sleep on our feet. There is such a thing as a socially anxious dog who will seek contact and then aggress if you reciprocate, but mainly, our dogs like us and like to be near us. Often they like to be right in amongst us. Relax, and remember to scratch behind the ears.
MYTH: Dogs Are Wolves One traditional definition of a species is "a group of organisms whose members can interbreed and produce fertile offspring." By that definition, dogs and wolves are indeed the same species. Wolves are Canis lupus, depending on which taxonomist is talking, dogs are either Canis familiaris or Canis lupus familiaris, that is, a subspecies of the wolf. But there's more to "species" than who can breed with whom. Dogs and wolves differ anatomically and behaviorally in many ways. A dog weighing the same as an adult wolf - about 100 pounds, will have a brain 20% smaller. Dogs' teeth are smaller and less robust than those of wolves, even allowing for size differences.
Wolves get most of their food by hunting, free-living dogs get most of their food by scavenging. Wolves go into estrus once a year, while dogs generally go into heat twice a year. Breeding wolves usually form monogamous long-term pair bonds - the breeding behavior of dogs would make Rick Santorum's hair stand on end. Just for starters, a litter may have more than one puppy daddy. Wolf pups and dog pups have different rates of behavioral development. Sometimes your dog's wolf ancestry will be apparent in body language and communication, for example. Close relatives are just that - relatives. They are not identical twins. Your best guide for assessing your dog's behavior is solid, scientifically grounded information about, yes, dogs.
MYTH: Dog Mouths Are Cleaner Than Human Mouths Some of us may recall hearing this as kids, particularly if a dog licked your face or sampled whatever you were currently eating. Don't worry about it! Didn't you know that a dog's mouth is cleaner than yours? - The idea that dogs' mouths are clean was probably surmised by the fact that dogs lick their wounds and sometimes heal faster because of it. In reality, if a wound heals faster after a dog licks it, that's because his rough tongue has been removing dead tissue and stimulating circulation, much like a surgeon would debride a wound. On the other hand, licking wounds can sometimes cause more harm than good by introducing bacteria and/or irritating the wound. Guess the people who came up with this myth did not consider the dog wounds that did not heal properly. A dog's mouth contains plenty of germs, not to mention other "icky" things.
Think about the stuff your dog eats off the ground and out of the trash or the things he licks off of himself. Plus, many dogs do not get their teeth brushed as regularly as people, so there is the dental tartar and bacteria to consider - as if doggie breath didn't give this away. Overall, a dog's mouth contains more germs than anyone wants to think about. But the good news is that these germs are usually dog-specific and unlikely to cause any harm to humans. Basically, if you keep your dog healthy, dewormed and up-to-date on vaccines, there is little to worry over. Better yet, take care of your dog's teeth and there's even less going on in that mouth. So, a little "kiss" from your dog is nothing to fret about, but I wouldn't go sharing water bowls or letting your dog lick your wounds.
MYTH: It's a good idea to get two littermate puppies and raise them together so that they won't be lonely This generally backfires in a big way as you have twice as much puppy pee and poop to clean up and twice or three times, as many puppy chewing and nipping and barking. Also, the two dogs can get so bonded they don't care about human company much or end up fighting because they become competitive with each other. One puppy at a time is definitely a good rule!
MYTH: I crate my two dogs together because they get along well This can work for short periods for adult dogs that get along well, but for longer periods or younger dogs it is best to get a second crate so that they can both be comfortable and not have any arguments in the tight space.
MYTH: My last puppy was not this difficult! Everyone says this! I think we forget how difficult they were or if they were raised by our parents it definitely seems easy in retrospect.
MYTH: My puppy stays by me so I don't bother putting him on the leash when we are out Puppies do stay close by naturally but just wait until your dog is a bit older and look out! This is why young untrained dogs should stay on the leash because we never know when they are going to get the wanderlust! And of course, start training your dog to come to you - it is never too early.
MYTH: My new dog doesn't bark at all Famous last words! Most dogs don't begin barking until about 6 months and most adopted dogs have a honeymoon period in which they do not bark for a couple of weeks.
MYTH: My dog rolls on his belly because he loves to be petted there This could be true, but it could be true also that your dog is a little nervous and so "submits" by rolling on his or her back. If you think this may be the case, the best idea is to give your dog a little break from interaction.
MYTH: A large dog means longer life The average lifespan of small dog breeds like the dachshund and Chihuahua is 14-15 years, while the average lifespan of larger breeds like the German Shepherd, a Labrador or an Alaskan malamute is around 8-10 years. This lifespan decreases even for the giant breeds like Saint Benard, as Their average lifespan is just 5-8 years. Due to this odd trend, lifespan is different to every other member of the animal kingdom. The general pattern is that if the animal is larger, the longer its estimated life span.
The world's smallest mammal and the bumblebee bat Has an average lifespan of 5-10 years. Whereas the world's largest mammal and the blue whale has an average lifespan of 80-90 years? Scientists have explained the trend by examining the use of energy. The body cells of large mammals are slower a more efficient, it means that they last longer. This phenomenon is reversed in dogs. Sadly yet, unfortunately, the decreased life expectancy of larger dogs is due to how they have been bred by humans over the years. Larger dogs can grow up rapidly in their first year. Great Danes - the largest dog breed, can develop five times faster than humans. Due to this advanced growth, they also age quickly, that means their lives are shortened.
All These thoughts can not be further from the truth !!!
MYTH: Having accidents every day in their home is part of the potty training process
MYTH: Leaving the puppy in the back yard to potty is good potty training and easy for the owner
MYTH: The new puppy should be able to give them a sign or a signal when it needs to go potty
MYTH: It's cute when their little puppy jumps
MYTH: The puppy is asking for love and affection when it jumps, that's all
MYTH: When the puppy bites, it simply means that the new puppy is just teething and the puppy will grow out of it
MYTH: Letting the new puppy sleep with them is great for the puppy and lots of fun for the owner
MYTH: Leaving the puppy's food and water down all day for it to eat and drink is easier for them
MYTH: It's fun and the puppy loves to wrestle or rough house with the kids and me - it's how we bond Whether you are at your wit's end with your new puppy, or just beginning your puppy training efforts, you must understand immediately what you need to do to help your puppy be successful now and in the future. Be as comfortable with the trainer of your dog as you are the teacher of your children. And remember, Opportunity Barks!
MYTH: When your dog looks grown up, he's No matter how big he is, or how mature his behavior, your puppy is still a puppy until he's at least a year old. Large-breed dogs are growing puppies for close to two years.
MYTH: It's okay for dogs to be a little plump Excess weight in dogs can be associated with heart, respiratory and blood-sugar level problem, skeletal distress and gastrointestinal disorders. Don't feed your dog table scraps, and make sure he gets plenty of exercise.
MYTH: Dogs heal themselves by licking their wounds Yes, to a certain extent. A small amount of licking can help clean a wound, but excessive licking can actually slow down the healing process. It can even cause further damage to the wound and invite infection. Also consider that licking can turn into a bad habit that's hard to stop. So if you suspect it's getting out of hand, focus on redirecting your dog's tongue to something more tasty.
MYTH: Brushing a dog's teeth is silly Well actually, your dog will have the last laugh when his breath makes your eyes water. Routinely brushing your dog's teeth not only freshens breath, it also limits the risk of oral disease and gives you a chance to notice anything unusual happening to teeth and gums. Seriously, don't brush off brushing. It can make your dog more pleasant to be around and help prevent an array of serious health problems down the road. Ask your veterinarian for help getting started.
MYTH: A dog is a carnivore. Look at his teeth Truth: There is much confusion out there in the pet world about what is the best diet to feed a dog. Many dog lovers insist on feeding their canine friends a pure meat diet because they think their dog is designed to be a pure carnivore. A better understanding of the definitions associated with the dietary needs of animals is a great place to start in understanding how to best feed your pet and tackle this hotly debated myth.
CARNIVORE: An animal subsisting primarily on animal tissue.
HERBIVORE: An animal subsisting entirely on plant tissue.
OMNIVORE: An animal subsisting on both animal and plant tissue.
Cats and dogs are both members of the taxonomic order Carnivora. The confusing part is not all species of the Carnivora order are actually carnivores. Cats are true carnivores because they have a higher protein requirement and higher dietary requirements for nutrients that aren't available from plant sources, such as taurine, arginine, and methionine. Some Carnivora species, including dogs, coyotes and bears, are omnivores that thrive on a diet consisting of both plant and animal tissue. One member of the Carnivora order, the panda, is primarily an herbivore - 99% of a panda's diet consists of bamboo. The truth to this myth is dogs belong to the taxonomic order Carnivora, but their behavior, anatomy, and feeding preferences reveal their ability to eat and be healthy on a diet consisting of both plant and animal foods, which classifies them as omnivores from a dietary perspective.
MYTH: Dogs only need yards to be happy! Dogs do not want to play by themselves. Like their genetic relatives, wolves, they want to be with their pack. While they might run around the yard, burning off their energy, they would be much happier if you were out there to play with them. Exercise is great for a dog, but it is even better if you are out there exercising with them. As the owner, it is your job to make sure that he gets all of the exercise that he needs.
MYTH: Dogs can only see in black & white Although they can't see the world in full technicolour like we can, dogs can see some colours. Their eyes detect fewer colours than ours, so their perception is similar to humans with colour blindness. They can tell the difference between blue and yellow, but see green and red as shades of grey.
MYTH: Guilty look shows us when the Dog did something wrong Ever come home to find your pet has chewed up your child's favourite cuddly toy, or has made a mess on the carpet? That look on his face isn't guilt, but you could be forgiven for thinking it is. Owners often mistakenly believe their dog knows they have done wrong, but what you are actually seeing is "appeasement behaviour". Dogs that look guilty are doing nothing more than responding to an owner's disappointment, upset or anger and it is their way of diffusing tension in response to feeling threatened. They are more likely to do this is they have been told off in the past.
MYTH: Dogs have healing saliva A dog's mouth is filled with bacteria that are suited to a dog's mouth, quite different from the bacteria found in human mouths. According to Dog's Health, dog saliva may also be capable of neutralizing certain bacteria growth around wounds, which is why they will lick their cuts or scrapes. That doesn't mean it will do the same for humans, however. Most of the bacteria in each system is essentially incompatible with the other. So, while letting your dog lick your wounds may not help, a good cuddle won't hurt either.
MYTH! It's okay for dogs to be a little plump Excess weight in dogs can be associated with heart, respiratory and blood-sugar level problem, skeletal distress and gastrointestinal disorders. Don't feed your dog table scraps, and make sure he gets plenty of exercise.
MYTH! Dogs heal themselves by licking their wounds Yes, to a certain extent. A small amount of licking can help clean a wound, but excessive licking can actually slow down the healing process. It can even cause further damage to the wound and invite infection. Also consider that licking can turn into a bad habit that's hard to stop. So if you suspect it's getting out of hand, focus on re-directing your dog's tongue to something more tasty.
MYTH! Brushing a dog's teeth is silly. Give me a break Well actually, your dog will have the last laugh when his breath makes your eyes water. Routinely brushing your dog's teeth not only freshens breath, it also limits the risk of oral disease and gives you a chance to notice anything unusual happening to teeth and gums. Seriously, don't brush off brushing. It can make your dog more pleasant to be around and help prevent an array of serious health problems down the road. Ask your veterinarian for help getting started. Bad breath is often, an indication of dental or health trouble.
MYTH! Getting two puppies from the same litter and raising them together is a good idea Whilst this isn't necessarily a bad idea, it would generally be easier and a nicer experience all round if you only had one puppy. Two puppies means double the poo and wee accidents, double the destruction, double the nipping, and generally a lot more work. It is also possible that having two puppies at the same time can result in the dogs wanting to spend less time with their humans, obviously not always the case.
MYTH! My dog is aggressive/fearful/shy because he/she was abused as a puppy If a dog is acquired at an older age and he is fearful, there is no way of knowing if he was abused. However, by placing our focus on abuse as the cause, we fail to recognize causes that are much more common and we may actually make the problem worse. Feeling sorry for your dog and trying to comfort or console him when he is displaying aggressive or fearful behavior reinforces that behavior. It's like telling him "it's okay to be this way, good boy!" Also, ignoring the problem, especially in an older dog, will almost always cause the problem to get worse. While we still have much to learn about how genetics affects behavior, it is well documented that fearful or shy behaviors are inherited. Nevertheless, the degree of fearfulness/shyness is influenced by learning and the dogs' environment.
Dogs can adjust to whatever makes them afraid by using programs of desensitization & counterconditioning. The sooner the problem is identified and addressed, the better the chances of success will be. That's doesn't mean it's impossible to treat a problem that is longer standing, but long standing problems will take much more time and patience. Ignoring the problem will end up making treatment more costly, difficult, and time consuming. The bottom line is, complex interactions between genetics and environment - nature vs. nurture, are what determines an animals behavior patterns. One single event is rarely the cause of the issue or issues at hand.
MYTH! This new medication is all I need to fix my dogs' or puppys' problem While the development and use of antianxiety or psychotropic medications has greatly facilitated behavior modification, their use alone is not very successful. Many veterinarians fail to realize that using medication without concurrent behavior modification only produces a 25% success rate, at best. Fact is that medication alone will rarely, if ever, give you the changes you are looking for. Sometimes behaviors will be temporarily suppressed, but without concurrent behavior modification they will often return. A good example of this is with the issue of noise phobias. If you are around when the noise is likely to be present, say fireworks on the 4th of July, you can give medication to sedate your dog and make him/her less reactive to the noise. However, over time a higher dose may be required to produce the same affect and the drug may loose its effectiveness all together. However, if desensitization and counterconditioning are instituted, your dog may not need medication at all. He or she will learn to cope with the phobia.
The bottom line is, medications are not a cure all. They can help to decrease levels of anxiety - anxiety inhibits learning and facilitate learning, making behavior modification protocols more effective.Remember clear and well-known, but not very accepted hurtful truth:
THERE IS NOT EVEN 1 MEDICAL / LABOR REMEDY or MEDICATION, WHICH CURED somebody's dog!
All these modern-tech-medicine products suits only the thrashbay, also not sure.. because, actually every single element of this "magical" remedies should easily destroy metallic garbage box cover during just a few days.. or maybe even hours. Think of this, before belieiving this dangerous and painful, but yet very general & common myth.
DO NOT KILL YOUR DOG! Trust nature, more then a doctor !
MYTH! An aggressive, fearful, or shy dog means that he was or being abused A dog's behavior is based on genetics and environment. You cannot generalize that a dog has been abused simply by his mannerisms.
MYTH! You don't have time for dog behavior classes Most people think you have to set aside 2 to 3 hours for dog behavior classes. Not true. Ask around to find a dog trainer that is best suited to help with your dog's specific issue.
MYTH! You can't enroll in a puppy class before the dog has all his shots Puppies are close in age and therefore typically have the same vaccination schedule and therefore will not likely spread disease among themselves. Plus, puppy classes are typically in locations that are easy to clean an sanitize.
MYTH! Dogs destroy things to punish owners If your dog chews up your favorite pair of shoes, she is not punishing you. She is simply enjoying chewing up those shoes! Dogs chew on things such as shoes, furniture, and other items because it relieves boredom, releases pent up energy, feels good on their teeth, and may indicate separation anxiety.
Teething is a natural process and should pose any problems. Puppy Teething Symptoms are evident, but for most of us, they may be misinterpreted as annoying behavioral problems. With rare exceptions, most puppies are born without teeth. By three weeks of age, sooner for larger breed puppies, tiny teeth begin to emerge. First come the incisors, then the canine teeth and finally the premolars. There are no molars at this point.
The last premolar erupts between 8 and 12 weeks, usually about the same time that a puppy goes to his forever home. Puppies have 28 deciduous or baby teeth. Baby teeth remain until about five to eight months of age. After about three or four months, the pup begins to lose his baby teeth and the permanent teeth erupt in the same order as the baby teeth: incisors, canine teeth, premolars and eventually the molars. By the time the puppy is 8 months old, the teething process should be complete.
Teething in puppies is just a phase and all dogs do grow out of it. How we handle this pup development stage does have an impact on future behaviors. Once this phase is over, chewing should diminish, dogs should be less likely to nip on your fingers, and much of the destructive behaviors are gone.
If they are still present, it is time to consider them to be behavioral problems that should be addressed. A deciduous tooth should be lost before its permanent replacement appears. When a carnivore has both a permanent and deciduous tooth at the same site, it is referred to as a "retained deciduous tooth." These need to be removed surgically to prevent abnormal alignment of the permanent tooth.
Unlike human babies who are teething, puppies are not likely to cry, run a temperature or get clingy. Rather, you might just notice that the puppy would rather bite you than love up to you. If your puppy is drooling, biting, chewing, or bleeding from the gums, there is a good chance that he is in the throes of teething. There are some telltale signs your puppy might be teething.
Chewing Chew ToysPuppy Teething Symptoms can be reduced by giving them good chew toys. This is undoubtedly the most visible outward behavior. Chewing on anything, preferably chew toys, but most puppies will find other things to chew on as well. Your shoes, furniture, woodwork, sticks from outside, anything within reach is fair game. Chewing helps relieve some of the pain associated with new erupting teeth.
Bleeding or Swollen Gums First of all, do not panic! Bleeding is minimal and you might not even notice this sign, but a telltale sign is there are drops of pinkish blood on favorite toys. Teething can be painful and those drops of blood will help us remember that what the puppy is going through is not a bad behavior stage.
Drooling If you notice more saliva than usual, there is a good chance that new teeth are trying to erupt. Even if you don't notice the actual saliva, you will probably feel his wet face or see more wetness on his bed or wherever he sleeps.
Missing Teeth Sometimes you will see areas in your dog's mouth where a tooth has fallen out or you might even find the tiny baby tooth on the floor. Do not worry if you can't find these teeth, as many are swallowed without any problems.
Poor Appetite Puppy Teething Symptoms can include refusal to eat. Puppy Teething Symptoms can include refusal to eat. Some puppies lose their appetite or refuse to eat. You might confuse this behavior with some other health issue, but if they are otherwise healthy, the chances are that eating causes some pain.
Other Puppy Teething Symptoms: Sometimes they will run a low-grade temperature, cry or whimper. If you do take your puppy's temperature, remember that the normal canine temperature is 101 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything above that could suggest fever. Not all puppies have fever, cry or whimper.
Help Relieve Your Puppy's Distress There are some things you can do if you are aware that your puppy is teething. Stock the Toy Box to Reduce those Puppy Teething Symptoms !
Now is the time to stock up on puppy toys. Hard plastic toys, rope toys, Kongs, and other chews are all necessary at present and should be readily available. You might not want to put them all out at once but rather rotate them. The novelty will encourage the puppy to play with and chew on them more frequently.
Some dogs love soft toys such as stuffed animals or stuffless toys. These are also good to have around during the teething stage.
A lovely homemade toy that works well for teething is to braid some old rags together into a long rope toy. These can also be frozen for a different tactile sensation.
Dip a plastic toy in peanut butter or other tasty paste/liquid and freeze. You can even do this with rope toys. Dip a rope toy in a meat broth, water from a can of tuna, or a thin gravy and then place in a plastic bag and into the freezer.
A small washcloth can serve the same purpose for teething. Wet the cloth, roll it up and freeze. If you choose to dip the toys in broth, you should plan on keeping the puppy confined to a small area while they enjoy their treat. It can get very messy.
Change Your Tooth-brushing to Gum Massage! - If you have already started to brush your dog's teeth, you might want to use a piece of gauze dipped in a dog toothpaste and wrapped around your finger. The finger massage will feel good to the dog, but a toothbrush may hurt. Keep the toothbrush in the closet until the process of teething is complete.
Protect Your Puppy from Chewing Dangerous Treats It is very important to puppy proof a home, during the teething phase. Anything that is within reach is a fair target to chew in a puppy's mind. It is not that they are deliberately naughty, but rather they are exploring and when they find an object that relieves some of their pain, they are going to check it out. Figure out how tall your puppy is when standing on his back to legs. Any object from that height down to the floor is fair game.
The electric cords, chargers, children's toys, furniture legs, wooden doors, baseboard or molding wood is generally a favorite, but upholstered items might also be sampled. Don't forget that everyone in the household must be diligent about leaving things on the floor: shoes, boots, cell phones, eye glasses, papers, books, well, the list just goes on and on.
Don't allow a puppy to teeth on you or another person. Some people make the mistake of allowing a small puppy to mouth their fingers, hands, or even feet.
Problems during puppy teething While most puppies emerge unscathed with a full set of adult teeth, some breeds are prone to some common problems:
Retained Baby Teeth If you see what appears to be extra teeth, there is a good chance that the dog has retained a baby tooth. This is notoriously common in small breed dogs. If the baby tooth does not fall out, eventually the adult teeth are pushed out of line and cause a bad bite or malocclusion. It is important to check the puppy's teeth periodically during the teeth process and alert your vet if a tooth does not fall out. Many vets will routinely pull out any baby teeth at the same time that they spay or neuter the puppy. This saves the dog from having to undergo general anesthesia more than once and also saves you money too.
Wrong Number of Teeth Most breeds have their entire 42 teeth by the time they reach 8 or 9 months old. Some small dogs, especially the brachycephalic breeds may not have as many molars as their longer palate cousins. Some hairless breeds such as the Chinese Crested may also have missing teeth. Most of these problems are hereditary and do not pose a health risk to the dog. In some breeds, missing teeth may be a disqualifying fault in show dogs. Some breeds even have more teeth than they should. Greyhounds, for example, may have extra teeth that crowd out or overlap healthy teeth.
All puppies are cute, but some breeds have that Extra look & feel, that makes them irresistible. For this reason, some of these breeds are popular in greeting cards, commercials and other marketing materials.
English Bulldog There is something about these wrinkly, tubby, squat puppies that just make humans melt. Bulldog puppies literally make people stop in their tracks. It's why they are so popular on greeting cards and print advertisements.
Chinese Crested You won't find a better dog than Chinese Crested because this dog breed was created to be an invalid's companion. They always desire to stay with their owners. This breed comes in two variants, one is Hairless, with silky hair on the head and tail and the other one is Powderpuff who have a full coat. They usually don't accept strangers, but if they fall in love with you, then you will get a stalker on your hands. This breed doesn't come from China; actually, they evolved from Mexican or African hairless dogs. This breed was officially recognized by the AKC in 1991. The Chinese Crested dogs are 11 to 13 inches in height - both male & female, and they weigh up to 12 pounds. The coats of Powderpuff come in all colors such as blue, lavender or copper. Pink and black are the skin tones of the Hairless Crested. Powderpuff Crested need a lot of work to groom. They do have a silky coat and the undercoat. The Chinese Cresteds are alert and happy. They make an excellent companion and extremely intelligent. This breed can be stubborn sometimes. Adapts well to apartment living, Very affectionate with family, Incredibly kid friendly and also friendly towards other pet animals, Very healthy, Easy to train!
Coton de Tulear The Coton de Tulear is a sweet and cuddly dog breed. This breed originated in Madagascar. This breed was officially recognized by the AKC in 2014 and was developed on the island of Madagascar and still the national dog of that island. Many people believe that the Tenerife dog was brought to Madagascar and they were mated with a dog of the island, which created an unexpected result. The male dogs stand 10 to 12.5 inches at the shoulder and weigh 9 to 13 pounds, on the other hand, female dogs are 8.5 to 11 inches and weigh 8 to 11 pounds. Their coat is long, soft, and thick and this is what make them look fluffy. Their coat is white and has a few shadings of light gray or red-roan on the ears. This breed is always happy who wants nothing but to spend time with family. They build up a strong bond with their family members and don't like to be separated from them at all. They are very smart and easy to train. Adapts well to apartment living, A great choice for novice owners, Tolerates both hot and cold weather, Very affectionate with family, Incredibly kid friendly, Very friendly towards other pets and strangers, Very healthy, Very smart and intelligent.
Golden Retriever There is something about a Golden puppy that makes everyone smile. They are used in a lot of commercials, and it's no secret why they are irresistible.
Labrador Retriever Another breed that gets a lot of air-time as a puppy is the lab. And we all know why: their rolly-polly bodies and sweet face could sell anything.
Corgi With their short little legs and ears that are bigger than their body, corgi puppies are absolutely adorable. To see one it so fall in love immediately.
French Bulldog Like the Pug and English Bulldog, something about the Frenchie's flat face is endearing. Couple it with those too big ears, and you have one cute pup.
Pomeranian As a puppy, this breed looks like a little teddy bear. Their fluffy coat, tiny ears, and round eyes make it impossible to not want to pick them up and cuddle them.
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel If there was ever a dog breed that was born to give her owner the "sad look," it would be the cavi. No one can resist this face.
Saint Bernard Those big paws, covered in extra soft fur, make the Saint Bernard puppy one of the cutest of the giant breeds. The "sad eyes" don't hurt, either.
Basset Hound This puppy has it all: short, wrinkly legs, tons of loose skin, ears that are too big, and those sad eyes. Not to mention how soft those giant ears are, they are definitely irresistible.
Pug While their looks are slightly unconventional, you can't help but smile when you see a pug pup. They melt your heart with their bug-eyes, smooched face and curly tail.
Chinese Sharpei They are simply the BEST puppies ever! : )
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LABRADOR RETRIEVER One of the most popular breeds all around, we have documented Labradors elsewhere as the best dog to have if you are looking for a date, the only breed accepted for training as arson dogs, and one of the more popular breeds for service dogs. For a family, there's hardly a better choice. Labradors love to please their humans, being playful, protective, loving, and reliable. There's nothing that a Lab loves more than to show off by learning a new trick, even if they manage to learn that new trick before you've taught it to them. They are canine Einsteins.
BERNESE MOUNTAIN DOG Meet the Bernese Mountain Dog. Top 2 on the list! Not only are these dogs beautiful, but they are very intelligent and easy to train as well. They are natural watchdogs, without being overly dominant, which makes them perfect to have around children. This breed actually loves children and are known to be friends for life. Like any other breed, they must be socialized well as puppies and trained firmly, but gently, as they are a sensitive breed. Due to this, they must also be kept around people and not simply put in a backyard or a kennel. It's a large breed and they are strong so you need lots of space to make this dog happy.
GOLDEN RETRIEVER Goldens are almost everything a Labrador is, except with a much shorter life span then the Irish Setter, twelve years at the most, but ten more likely. Their main asset is extreme patience, useful around children, as well as their high energy. Frequently used as service dogs, they were originally bred as gun dogs and are avid swimmers.
BULLDOG The great advantage of bulldogs? They're sturdy, so they can take anything that rambunctious kids throw at them, while they're not very energetic. End result? A dog that will put up with a lot. They're also not picky about where they live, so both small apartments and large houses are fine.
BEAGLE If you don't mind a bit of high maintenance when it comes to brushing and bathing, Charlie Brown's best friend is an ideal dog for families with children. Energetic and friendly, beagles are also sturdy and mostly child-proof, and your kids will wear out before they do. They also make good nannies that can help you herd the young ones at bed time, and have endearingly humorous habits, like howling, which can be very amusing in small doses.
GREAT DANE Although very tall, these dogs are mild mannered and placid, they are known for their patience around kids and are extremely gentle. The Great Dane's large and imposing appearance has a way of hiding its friendly nature. Great Dane's are often referred to as gentle giants. Great Danes are generally well-disposed toward other dogs, other non-canine pets and humans. As with all dogs, they should be supervised around young children. Great Danes can be protective and make good guard dogs.
PUG With their curly tail and scrunched up little faces, Pugs are adorable, they are incredibly good with kids and love to play. Pug dogs seem to prefer people to other animals and are extremely social creatures. Pugs faces look very serious but they are playful, charming, clever and are known to succeed in dog obedience skills. Which means they are very easy to train if you do it the right way In general, Pugs are very attentive dogs, always at their owner's feet, in their lap, or following them from room to room.
BICHON FRISE These dogs are so lovable and so tolerant! It seems that they express real emotion and that's a very good thing for kids! They know when he's done wrong and displays signs that he feels bad, or when someone is sad and just cuddles up or brings a toy to get some play going.Bichons are small 10-20 inches, 15-30 pounds, they like to cuddle, they're smart and highly trainable. I can't think of a better dog breed to have with children! They can reach an age of 15. They don't shed, but you have to take them on a regulair baisses to the groomers like every six weeks or so.
COCKER SPANIEL The cocker spaniel is friendly, eager to please, quick to learn and willing to obey. An affectionate and easy-going family dog. The Spaniel considered an excellent working dog. It has exceptional stamina and needs moderate amounts of activity, and need plenty of exercise in order to run off their excess energy.It is a sociable breed that enjoys the company of children and handles the company of other pets well, except birds. If left alone for too long, they can become destructive and mischievous through boredom. They love the water, and tend to get wet whenever they have the chance!
SAINT BERNARD The St. Bernard is a gentle giant. He is intelligent and makes an excellent guard dog for family and children. Saint Bernards are famous for how good they are with children. They seem to have an innate understanding for how children think and behave, and are incredibly patient with them. They are gentle with little ones, and go out of their way not to hurt them. A Saint Bernard owner will have to protect his Saint Bernard from the children, as they might try to ride him like a horse! Saint Bernards are awesome family pets if you don't mind having a gigantic dog being part of your family, if you don't mind a lot of slobber and if you don't mind a lot of fur. A Saint Bernard is intelligent, and incredibly strong, so you need to start obedience training when they are young! They will learn bad habits just as efficiently as they will learn good ones, so you do not want a giant, strong dog running your house! They aren't that easy to train as they can be independent, and occasionally stubborn. They are quick to housetrain, however. Saint Bernards were bred to be search and rescue dogs, and they need daily exercise and mental stimulation. However, they are not terribly active dogs, so they will need some incentive to exercise.
BASSET HOUND The Basset is gentle in disposition and devoted to master and family. He has a deep, baritone musical voice. Although normally placid, he has surprising agility and energy on the hunt. Because Bassets are scent hounds, they should always be on a leash when out on walks. He is an independent dog by nature so needs discipline training in order to be an ideal housepet. Even though Bassets sleep a lot, walks are still necessary. The Basset Hound is a friendly dog, to people and other pets, and makes an excellent companion for children. I remember when I was a child that our chicken did eat at the same time as our dog did out of his bowl! Basset Hounds are extremely loyal to and very much attached to their owners. This dog hates to be left alone and owners should recognize that Bassets can be stubborn and provide gentle correction where required. Bassets are highly social and are best situated as a family dog with a large, fenced back yard.
SHIH TZU Originally used as companion dogs, these little dogs are also good with children, their long hair can be hard to maintain but if being kept as a pet, you can trim it short. Shih Tzu's are very social dogs and love being with people. They tend to be sweet, playful, and trusting as well. Shih Tzu's don't need as much exercise as larger dog breeds, but do suffer from the same difficulties as most small breed dogs due to having a smaller bladder. Shih Tzu's are great dogs for inside. They do not shed hair and leave it all over the furniture. They love to sit on your lap in a warm cozy couch. Shih Tzu's are small enough to take anywhere. I'm sure you have seen Paris Hilton carry hers around like an accessory in her bag!
BULLTERRIER Spuds McKenzie, Buster Brown's Pal, and the preferred canine baby sitter of yesteryear, bull terriers are intelligent, energetic and friendly dogs that can take a lot of roughhousing while remaining calm. Particularly suited to large families, they don't complain too much when manhandled by children, and can actually help teach kids how to properly relate to dogs. Plus they are just very cute and adorable. While they are energetic and require lots of play time, they will also help wear your kids out - the more the merrier and will return the favor by being very protective of them.
COLLIE One word: Lassie. In fact, Lassie was one of the two dogs, the other was Rin Tin Tin who inspired a very young Cesar Millan to become a Pack Leader in the first place. While its long coat is high maintenance, its tendency to herd your children may be useful, at least in their early years. Beyond that, collies love nothing more than to make their humans happy, and it's really not a stretch to imagine that you could train yours to alert you to a fire in the barn, or to remind you that you've left your cell phone on the dining room table before rushing off to work with a well-timed bark and whine. Sadly, though, no one has yet been able to train this breed to cook.
DACHSHUND "Weiner dogs" or "doxies," as they're sometimes called, pack a spunky personality in their little bodies. They tend to be loyal lap dogs and cuddlers who love to give kisses. Doesn't shed and requires minimal grooming short-haired / smooth-coat variety
NEWFOUNDLAND Because of their natural love of children, the Newfoundland has been dubbed "Nature's Nannies." Large and sweet, it's hard not to fall in love with them, and they will return the favor. While they can drool and shed a lot, and suit a family with large open spaces, they will also tend to wind up wherever the family is. Basically, they are gigantic, loveable furballs who desire nothing more than to keep watch on their pack members.
VIZSLA Originally a middle-European hunting dog, and little known outside of its native Hungary, the Vizsla is gentle, loyal, quiet and affectionate. It does require a lot of exercise - not a problem if you have energetic children. Still, it prefers to spend a lot of time indoors with its family, and is very eager to learn and show off. If you want to teach your children by teaching them to train dogs, then this breed is a good choice.
KEESHOND The fluffy Keeshond is an attention craving, family friendly breed that looks like a smaller version of a Samoyed or Husky. Keeshonds quickly become a part of the family and are generally great playmates for kids.
IRISH SETTER A better choice for families with yards because of their energy, Irish Setters are wonderful with children, because they are playful and energetic. One word of warning, though, their life spans are among the shorter ones for larger breeds, so you should only choose an Irish Setter if you want to teach those inevitable life lessons while your children are in middle school. Twelve years is considered old age for the breed, and few make it to fifteen.
POODLE Please note, only the standard poodle is a good family dog! Miniature poodles tend to be very high strung and not suitable for families with children. Standard poodles are smart and gentle, and are good for children with allergies, as they do not shed as much as other breeds. Otherwise, they are good-natured, and make excellent playmates for children.
MALTESE The Maltese dogs are very gentle and fearless. This breed is known by a variety of names throughout the centuries. They are originally called the "Canis Melitaeus" in Latin. They are also known as "Ancient Dog of Malta" and the "Roman Ladies Dog" in English. This breed was officially recognized by the AKC in 1888. Dog experts believe that this breed originated in the mid-1960s on the U.S. East Coast. Maltese dogs are generally known to be sweet and gentle pups that aim to please.
While they enjoy playing with kids, they are also content to spend downtime inside. The Mal-Shi or Malt-Tzu, a Maltese-Shih Tzu mix, is a hybrid breed that also scored great reviews for its good balance of energy and gentleness. Doesn't shed, careful with kids. This breed has the lively personality because they are very people oriented & they take well to training and respond to positive reinforcements. As Maltese dog's age, their energy level, and playful demeanor remain fairly constant.
BOXER One of the Boxers' most distinctive qualities is its love for children. They are a people oriented breed and prefer to have their pack close by. Energetic and affectionate, the Boxer needs to have plenty of exercise and playful interaction.
MASTIFF This good natured giant bonds instantly with its family and loves to be around his people. Gentle with children, this breed makes an ideal family pet. When he feels his pack is threatened, a Mastiff will most likely knock an intruder to the ground and lay on them until assistance arrives.
OLD ENGLISH SHEEPDOG This working dog is considered affectionate and loving, although there may be an instinct to herd its family, this might not be so bad if the kiddos are running late for school. The AKC described this breed as athletic filled with clownish energy.
DALMATIAN People oriented and lover of fun and play, the spotted Dalmatian would be an incredible addition to any family. Energetic, this breed loves to run with the kids all day long and snuggle with them at night. If the home includes horses, even better; the Dalmatian has a symbiotic relationship with horses.
DOGUE DE BORDEAUX If an owner can get past the drooling nature of this lovable breed, the Dogue de Bordeaux sports a calm temperament, is loyal to its pack and affectionate to a fault. Gentle with the children, this French Mastiff will also be protective of the family it loves.
AMERICAN STAFFORDSHIRE TERRIER Extremely loyal, this breed loves nothing more than to be part of a family. At the turn of the 20th century, the Staffordshire Terrier was the number one family dog in the country and was the poster dog for WWI. Pete from the "Little Rascals" short movies was an Am Staff.
MUTTS Bonus choice: go to your local shelter, and consider rescuing a mixed breed dog. In fact, consider a mixed breed in any case. Look for a dog that matches the energy level of your family, keeping one thing in mind: mid size and larger dogs are great for families, while small breeds are not. If you have children, avoid Chihuahuas or Yorkies or anything you could pick up with one hand; look at terriers, retrievers, or other bigger dogs. In general, if you're not afraid of injuring it by stepping on it, then it's probably durable enough for children. Once again, though here's the most important thing to remember: Whatever dog you bring in to the family, all of the people need to be the pack leaders, whether adults or children. Follow this rule from day one, and no matter what dog you adopt, you will have an enjoyable experience.
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Akita Chihuahua Rottweiler Alaskan Malamute Bullmastiff Weimaraner Siberian Husky Australian Shepherd Affenpinscher Afghan Hound Chow Chow The English Toy Spaniel Greyhound Japanese Chin Pekingese Shih Tzu Jack Russell Terrier
First Meeting Make sure your dog is well-exercised beforehand. Inside your home - the baby's turf, one parent should confidently hold the baby while the dog is several feet away. After a few days, invite the dog closer. Look for healthy body language sitting calmly, wagging tail, a curious nose, head lowered. "If a dog turns her back and avoids the baby, take this as a red flag," Millan says.
Once The Baby's Home Never leave an infant or toddler alone with a dog. This is especially important when the baby is on the floor, Stilwell says.
Include the dog when people stop by. Remember, the dog was part of your pack first, Millan says. Enlist the help of a calm and trustworthy person in the house to be responsible for the dog when you and your partner are not able to.
Practice displaying "calm, assertive energy." It's good dog psychology and great for future parent traps like setting boundaries and dealing with tantrums and power struggles, Millan explains.
Whether you are bringing your new baby home to meet your dog for the first time, or thinking about adopting that dog your kids have been asking for, there are some basic ways to safely introduce kids and canines. We spoke with Jennifer Shryock, a certified dog behavior consultant and founder of Family Paws Parent Education, about how to make a smooth transition.
Never force interaction between a dog and a child ! Pay attention to your dog's body language to determine if the dog is engaging with the situation or tolerating it. Shryock recommends allowing your child to pet the dog a couple times and then stop. Wait to see if the dog is interested in continuing the interaction.
Have reasonable expectations for your dog. Parents often think a dog should put up with a baby crawling near the animal at eye level and reaching and grabbing. You can't let a toddler freely explore the dog. A new dog will have a tolerance limit for your kids, and it's important to recognize that limit and provide the dog with a quiet area to retreat to when the interaction might become too much.
Instruct your kids not to crowd the dog or carry it around. Instead, create safe, supervised activities for your toddler and your dog. This might be dropping a treat in the dog's crate or filling up the food and water bowls together. No matter what you do - Shryock always recommends total supervision.
Rule of thumb (or dewclaw) If it doesn't feel right or it looks too good to be true, it probably is. Any behavioral issue is going to take time; there are no quick fixes. And if a child shouldn't be doing something to correct an animal's behavior, a parent shouldn't be doing it. For this reason, physical force with your dog in front of your kids is not recommended. Positive reinforcement is key.
New parents, help dogs prepare for the baby Before my nephew was born, I hired a trainer to help my dog and my sister's dog get acclimated to new baby scents and sounds. (A crying baby sounds a lot like Lulu's favorite squeaky toy.) Burckhalter has this advice for those who need help preparing furry babies for the arrival of a real baby.
Get to know your dog better during your pregnancy and use that time to reinforce basic training. Study your dog's body language and learn to identify triggers that stress or upset your dog, so you know how to protect your pet from these situations.
The best way to cultivate a good relationship with your dog and your new baby is to make sure your dog observes and participates in positive, daily routines with you and your baby. Never force your dog to check out the baby. Instead, invite him or her to sit next to you while you hold the new addition.
Make any lifestyle changes before the baby arrives. If your dog requires long walks, start doggie daycare as an outlet for exercise. Establish a no furniture rule and enforce it. Install baby gates well before duty calls and you have to stumble out of bed at 2 a.m. for a diaper change.
Get the dog acclimated to baby sounds and scents. Let your dog smell the baby's blanket and other gear. Set up the pack 'n' play and car seat weeks early.
Make the baby's room a dog-free zone. Start obedience training. Be honest about whether your dog is good with children. If your dog does not like children, Burckhalter said, you should find her a new home.
Before adding a new dog to your household, the first thing to consider is whether you really want another dog just for the sake of having another dog. Although sometimes a new dog may work out to be a great companion to the dog you already have, there is really no way to know in advance if that will be the case. Dogs with separation anxiety frequently remain distressed even if there are other dogs in the house with them, and if the dogs turn out to be incompatible the new dog will introduce new problems. Once you have decided to get another dog, you'll want to make the introduction with a minimum of stress. Give some thought to choosing a new dog who can be compatible with your present dog. In our experience, conflict is least likely to occur between a male dog and a female dog. Male with male is the next best combination, female with female is the combination most likely to result in conflict. When you choose a new dog, consider your present dog's needs. For example, try not to bring a very active young dog into a home with an older dog who already has health problems such as osteoarthritis. If you do get a puppy or young dog, be prepared to "protect" the older dog from her. You will have to spend plenty of time with the new dog and offer distractions to keep her from harassing the older dog.
1. - Try to introduce the new dog at a time when you will have at least a weekend to be home. You will want to observe and supervise closely at first. It is best not to leave two newly introduced dogs alone before they have become acquainted and the new dog is at least somewhat comfortable in his new home.
2. - Introduce the dogs in a neutral area rather than your own home or yard.
3. - Both dogs should be on leashes for control, but try to allow them a little room to maneuver. They may be calmer if they don't feel completely restrained. You will need one adult for each dog.
3. - Have the person walking the new dog approach from the side and "catch up" to you and your dog as you walk. Pick an area where you can walk together with a little distance between the dogs. As they walk they can look at and sniff each other, but there will be other things to catch their interest as well. Try to do this in an area without a lot of other people and dogs so that neither dog is over-stimulated. The walk should end at your home.
4. - If you have a yard and the weather permits, it may help to bring the dogs into the yard before going into the house. At first, allow them on a long leash until you notice relaxed and "wiggly" body postures and interest from both dogs. Once they appear relaxed and interested in a friendly manner, you can allow the leashes to drop so that they can interact.
5. - When you first enter the house don't let the dogs jostle each other in an entryway. Try to get both into the house quickly so that one doesn't react to the other's entrance later.
6. - Make sure there is an environment of plenty. There should be more than one water bowl and more than one comfortable place to lie down. There should be plenty of toys, especially of kinds your dog likes, so that there's no reason for the dogs to have a conflict over access to them. If your dog has a history of guarding his toys, they should be removed for the initial introduction period, which may take a few weeks. This all needs to be arranged before you pick up the new dog.
7. - At first, feed your dog the way you always have done and feed the new dog in a different room. Your dog should not have to worry about feeding time, leading to problems feeding the dogs. The new dog has no expectations of your home, so he shouldn't be upset by whatever feeding spot you choose. A very food-motivated dog will eat well from the start, but some dogs may need a person with them for the first day or two.
8. - Wait until you feel confident that the dogs are comfortable with each other before offering valuable treats such as real bones, rawhide, pigs' ears, etc., and supervise when you do. If your dog is reactive with these, you may have to separate the dogs before giving them these items. If your dog never gets these kinds of treats because he is aggressive over them, that should be the rule for the new dog too.
9. - Your dog may try to keep the new dog away from things that are very important to him. He may block the new dog from approaching you, from resting places like dog beds and furniture, or from rooms like the family room or the bedroom. If the new dog is very anxious, he may do the same, trying to keep your dog away from him in certain locations, or even sticking with a family member and trying to keep your dog away. Do not scold or punish the dogs if this happens. Instead, get up and move if it looks like you will be the center of contention, and distract either dog if he seems to be invading a place where the other is resting.
10. - Keep both dogs away from areas where food is being prepared or eaten at first. If either dog is anxious about the food, there could be a conflict.
11. - Don't change your dog's sleeping arrangements. If he sleeps in your bedroom, you will have to decide whether the new dog will sleep there too. That may be the only way to avoid a lot of distress on the part of the new dog. He may have to be crated, though, at least in the beginning, to avoid problems during the night when you would be unprepared to intervene.
12. - Very few dogs coexist without disagreements. A stare, a lifted lip or a growl is a normal dog signal that he's uncomfortable with something another dog is doing. Often the recipient of these signals will stop and move away , this is appropriate. There is likely to be some of this at first. As the dogs become more comfortable with each other they should do less of this, but punishing them can have very negative results. It can turn uncertainty into fear and aversion and result in ongoing conflict between the dogs.
13. - Supervise and distract as needed to make sure serious conflicts don't arise, but don't punish this sort of behavior. Examples of serious conflicts I include staring that cannot be interrupted, hard stiff muscles and posturing that lasts more than a few seconds, or full-contact fights. Please also monitor for excessive "bullying" behavior from one dogs towards another. If you notice that one dog is repeatedly avoiding eye contact and interactions, rolling over onto his back, or attempting to escape from the other dog. This can be an indication that one dog is uncomfortable and fearful and that the other dog is not appropriately responding to his avoidance cues.
14. - Don't leave the dogs together when they are alone in the house until you're reasonably sure that they are comfortable with each other. The new dog especially may be very anxious when left with your dog at first. If they can be crated, fine. If not, perhaps they can be gated apart. It may be difficult to separate them behind closed doors. Leave them for very short periods at first to make sure no problems arise when you are gone.
15. - Supervise play between the dogs at first. Dogs who are not well acquainted may do some rough play at first and this can result in growling or snapping. Be prepared to distract and redirect the dogs to another activity if play becomes too intense. As the dogs become more familiar with each other they usually learn to modulate their play.
16. - Any situation that raises the level of excitement in your environment should be avoided at first. The more time the dogs have to become acquainted before they have to deal with visitors or other disturbances the better. If you have children, do not let them or their friends interact with the two dogs without adult supervision.
17. - Remember that the new dog will have no idea at first how to signal that he needs to eliminate. Treat him as though you were beginning to housetrain him until he understands your routine. Try not to let him have accidents in the house; sometimes one dog will mark over the elimination of the other leading to housesoiling problems.
18. - As time goes on you will learn more about the new dog's personality, but be careful at first of overwhelming him. People should not hug or kiss him, and there should be no rough play.
19. - Especially at first, avoid doing things to either dog that require restraint, such as grooming or bathing, in front of the other. A dog may attack the restrained dog if he is anxious about him.
20. - When using treats during daily activities, be sure there are plenty for each dog. You might start out with less attractive treats so as to avoid aggression over them.
21. - Be patient and keep in mind most dogs get along well once they are accustomed to each other.
Here are some things to consider, to prevent separation anxiety when you have a puppy:
Teach your puppy to be alone
Teach your puppy to feel comfortable in a crate
Keep greetings and departures low-key
Make sure your puppy has plenty of exercise
Help your puppy associate your departure cues with good things
Never reward or encourage attention-seeking behavior
Because separation anxiety is much easier to prevent than to treat, taking steps early to train your dog to be away from you is something every puppy parent should think about. Putting in this effort now will save you heartache, frustration, and costly repairs when your dog is older.
Teach your puppy to feel comfortable in a crate. Our crate training tutorial will help you get started.
Teach your puppy to be alone. Make time in your day for your puppy to be alone, either in his crate or in a puppy-proofed area. This may sound silly and unnecessary if you work from home or are retired, but if you don't do this it can set the stage for separation anxiety later on.
Keep greetings and departures low-key. Highly emotional comings and goings tend to ramp up a dog's arousal level which over time can make it harder for him to be left alone.
If you are anxious or emotional about leaving, you might unintentionally transmit that tension to your dogs. Some owners leave without saying goodbye at all.
Help your puppy associate your departure with good things. Think of the things you typically do before you leave: Putting on your coat, jingling your keys, picking up your bag or briefcase, etc. Start doing these activities when you are not leaving, give your puppy something he loves - like a stuffed Kong or a favorite toy, and put him in his crate. Wait a short time and take him out before he is finished with his treat. The idea is to teach him to associate the signs of your departure with feeling good. Some owners save high-value toys and treats for alone time to help this process along.
Follow a "nothing in life is free" protocol. It's important for puppies to learn that they must earn the things they want. Ask your puppy to sit before being fed, going out to play, even being petted.
Make sure your puppy gets plenty of exercise. Appropriate exercise depends on the age of your puppy, but free play with other puppies, gentle fetch games, and short walks can all burn off excess energy. Keep exercise sessions short and allow the puppy plenty of rest periods. Avoid long walks - over a mile and runs until your dog is 1 year old. The growth plates at the ends of his bones are still developing, and hard exercise can cause swelling or even stunted growth.
Discouraging the Unacceptable Behavior It's virtually inevitable that your puppy will, at some point, chew up something you value. This is part of raising a puppy! You can, however, prevent most problems by taking the following precautions:
Minimize chewing problems by puppy-proofing your house. Put the trash out of reach, inside a cabinet or outside on a porch, or buy containers with locking lids. Encourage children to pick up their toys and don't leave socks, shoes, eyeglasses, briefcases or TV remote controls lying around within your puppy's reach.
If, and only if, you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then offer him an acceptable chew toy instead and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
Make unacceptable chew items unpleasant to your puppy. Furniture and other items can be coated with "Bitter Apple" to make them unappealing.
Don't give your puppy objects to play with such as old socks, old shoes or old children's toys that closely resemble items that are off-limits. Puppies can't tell the difference!
Closely supervise your puppy. Don't give him the chance to go off by himself and get into trouble. Use baby gates or close doors so you can prevent him from going where he shouldn't.
When you must be gone from the house, confine your puppy to a small, safe area such as a bathroom. You may also begin to crate train your puppy. Puppies under five months of age should not be crated for longer than three hours at a time, as they may not be able to control their bladder and bowels longer than that.
Make sure your puppy is getting adequate physical activity. Puppies should not be left alone in a yard as they don't know how to play by themselves. Take your puppy for walks and or play a game of fetch with him as often as possible.
Give your puppy plenty of people time. He can only learn the rules of your house when he's with you.
Encouraging the Acceptable Behavior! Provide your puppy with lots of appropriate toys.
Rotate your puppy's toys. Puppies, like babies, are often more interested in unfamiliar or novel objects. Put out four or five toys for a few days, then pick those up and put out four or five different ones.
Experiment with different kinds of toys. When you introduce a new toy to your puppy, watch him to make sure he won't tear it up and ingest the pieces.
Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys focuses your puppy's chewing activities on those toys instead of on unacceptable objects.
If your puppy is teething, try freezing a wet washcloth for him to chew on.
What Not to Do! Never discipline or punish your puppy after the fact. If you discover a chewed item even minutes after he is chewed it, you are too late to administer a correction. Animals associate punishment with what they are doing at the time they are being punished. A puppy can't reason that, I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that's why I am being scolded now. Some people believe this is what a puppy is thinking because he runs and hides or because he looks guilty. Guilty looks are canine submissive postures that dogs show when they are threatened. When you are angry and upset, the puppy feels threatened by your tone of voice, body postures and or facial expressions, so he may hide or show submissive postures. Punishment after the fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but could provoke other undesirable behaviors, as well. In most cases, destructive chewing by puppies is nothing more than normal puppy behavior. Adult dogs, however, can exhibit destructive behaviors for a variety of reasons, which can occasionally be the cause of chewing problems in puppies, as well.
When puppies play with each other, they use their mouths. Therefore, puppies usually want to bite or "mouth" hands during play or when being petted. With puppies, this is rarely aggressive behavior in which the intent is to do harm. Because puppies are highly motivated to exhibit this type of behavior, attempts to suppress it or stop it are unlikely to be successful unless you give your puppy an alternative behavior. The goals of working with this normal puppy behavior are to redirect your puppy's desire to put something in her mouth onto acceptable chew toys and to teach her to be gentle when a hand is in her mouth.
Redirect your puppy's chewing onto acceptable objects by offering her a small treat whenever you pet her. This technique can be especially effective when children want to pet her. As you or the child reach out to scratch her behind the ears - not over the head, with one hand, offer the treat with the other. This will not only help your puppy learn that people and petting are wonderful, but will also keep her mouth busy while she's being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and which one has the treat. At first, you may need to pet or scratch your puppy for short periods of time, since the longer she's petted, the more likely she is to get excited and start to nip.
You must also teach your puppy to be gentle with hands, and that nipping results in unpleasant consequences for her. Teach your puppy that nipping "turns off" any attention and social interaction with you. After a nip, look your puppy right in the eye, and yell "OUCH" as though you have been mortally wounded, then ignore her. Leave the room if you must, but ignore her until she's calm, then try the treat & petting method again. It's even better if you can coax your puppy into a sitting position using food. It may take many repetitions for her to understand what's expected. Nipping and mouthing hands can also be discouraged by loosely holding your puppy's lower jaw between your thumb and forefinger after she's taken your hand in her mouth. Don't hurt her by squeezing too hard, just gently hang on so that wherever her mouth goes, your hand hangs on. This will quickly become tiresome and she' will eventually pull away. After several seconds, release her jaw, but continue to offer her your hand. If she licks or ignores it, praise, pet and offer a tidbit. If she closes her mouth on your hand again, repeat the procedure.
A third alternative is to wear cotton gloves coated with a substance with an unpleasant taste such as Bitter Apple. In this way, your puppy will learn that hands in mouth taste bad. For this method to work, every time she nips your hand she must experience this bad taste. The possible disadvantage to this method is that your puppy may learn hands with gloves taste bad and those without gloves don't. Remember that any of these three methods will probably not be effective unless you work hard to teach your puppy the right behavior by offering her an acceptable chew toy.
Jumping Up When your puppy jumps up on you, she wants attention. Whether you push her away or block the jump by raising your knee towards your chest, she's being rewarded for jumping up - even though it's negative attention, she's still getting attention. When your puppy jumps up: Fold your arms in front of you, turn away from her and say off. Continue to turn away from her until all four of her feet are on the ground, then quietly praise her and give her a treat. If she knows the "sit" command, give the command when all four of her feet are on the ground, then quietly praise her and give her a treat her while she's in the sitting position. When you begin to praise her, if she begins to jump up again, simply turn away and repeat step two, above. Remember to keep your praise low-key. When your puppy realizes that she gets no attention from you while she's jumping up, but does get attention when she stops jumping up and sits, she will stop jumping up. Remember, once you have taught her to come and sit quietly for attention, you must reward her behavior. Be careful not to ignore her when she comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention.
It's very difficult for children under eight or nine years old to practice the kind of behavior modification outlined here. Children's first reaction to being nipped or mouthed by a puppy is to push the puppy away with their hands and arms. This will be interpreted by the puppy as play and will probably cause the puppy to nip and mouth even more. Dogs should never be left alone with children under ten and parents should monitor closely all interactions between their children and dogs.
This will eventually teach him that there is a world beyond you, even when you are home, and that he can comfort himself once in a while. Don't be stern and don't punish him, but just don't pet him every single time he asks for it. If he were to escalate his demands, then go as far as leaving the room but do not reward that behaviour of course. So, separation anxiety is a tricky one. It can be devastating if full-blown, but it's really easily preventable. Start these good habits now and give yourself and your dog peace of mind.
Teach your dog to be alone! Independence training is a great way to teach your dog boundaries and make them feel more comfortable when alone. If your pooch is clingy and never strays far from you, use commands like "stay" and "wait" to encourage self-sufficiency. Having a dog that follows you around loyally and lovingly can be adorable, but it's not advisable to nurture this type of behavior. Even though you might think your dog will be sad if they are not constantly with you, a little bit of independence can prevent obsessive dog behavior and separation anxiety. Teaching them positive behaviors and how to properly deal with puppy separation anxiety early can save you a lot of hassle, effort and potentially money in the long run. As with many behavioral problems, it is much easier to prevent than to cure.
If you are wondering if puppies grow out of separation anxiety, the answer is not that straightforward. In cases where dog stress symptoms in puppies are just caused by their young age, it's possible. But, your puppy won't kick their destructive or negative behaviors overnight, as much as you might want or pray.
BLIND PUPPY CARING GUIDE This article is proudly presented by WWW.WIKIHOW.COM
Prepare your environment. Dogs that are blind from birth are very adaptable and do not need a completely unmoving environment, since they develop excellent mental maps and adjust, but they do need to be away from stairs and sharp objects that they may bump into.
House train them normally. Most sighted puppies rely on feel and smell as much as a blind dog. Puppies don't have great eyesight.
Get your treats ready! :) Chicken thighs are very inexpensive and a great luxury for dogs. Gourmet preparation is not required - just bake them until they are not pink, then cut them into tiny pieces. Training pieces are not meals.
Condition them for words. Sighted dogs can see how happy or upset you are, but blind dogs need to learn it by touch or treat. Condition "Good!" (Good boy, good girl, good puppy, good Fido) with either a soft pet or a small treat. The best treat is a tiny piece of chicken for a small dog. Blind dogs can be trained for some actions far easier than sighted dogs, because they are not distracted. Easy words and easy training are even easier for a blind dog! Condition something negative with a sharp sound. It can be a hiss, pst, "uh-uh," or something very short. The sound alone should be enough to deter bad behavior, but steering them away from the behavior at the same time will help.
Use liberal touching and affection. Sighted dogs look at your face for affection. Blind dogs can't. Touching, petting, and rubbing are their only signs that you are affectionate towards them.
Tell them what you are doing. You may not think they can understand, but they will develop an understanding of what you are doing by what you tell them. If you walk away, tell them in a simple word about what you are doing. "Laundry," "Dishes," "Jammies," "Potty," and many more daily activities are all things they can come to understand. You can even use made-up words for activities. "Hodeeho!" could mean you are going to the car and will be right back. Feel free to make up as many words as you want. Your sighted dogs will understand these too.
Walk your dog. Blind dogs (who have never had sight) are even better on a leash than sighted dogs. They don't have the distractions that sighted dogs have. They will learn, much as a horse does, that a slight tension on the leash means to turn. Keep them on a close leash so you can steer them from things they may bump into, but let them run if it's clear and they want to. Be lenient on your walks. Blind dogs don't heel well, since they can't see where your heel is. Because blind dogs are denied the visual stimulation of walks, let them have plenty of time to stop and smell. Do this either on the way out or on the way back, since they should have some good exercise time too.
Train the dog to sit, stay, shake, leave it, and any other command you think is desired. They may require more touch and chicken treats than a sighted dog to get it the first time, but will reward you with far less disobedience once they understand.
Remember that dogs do not think existentially. They have no idea, if blind from birth, that sight exists. They can be fearless and blissfully happy.
Step train the dog. This can take time for a blind dog, so be patient. Sitting by a step with the dog can help. Say, "Step!" and then put the front paws on the step. They are naturally and rightfully afraid of stairs and steps. Never try to stair-train a blind dog. Disorientation can cause them to tumble and fall. Blind dogs should always be carried on stairs.
The idea for Puppy Cake came when Kelly Costello, owner and founder of Puppy Cake, was looking at a client's old cake mix advertisements. As she was looking at the cake mix, she said to herself, "Wouldn't that be great if they made this for dogs? People love their dogs!" After lots of research and many recipes, Puppy Cake was created! To match the traditional chocolate cake, Puppy Cake Carob Cake Mix was created and to match the traditional yellow cake, Puppy Cake Banana Cake Mix was created. In November 2007, the product launched and quickly became the #1 selling cake mix for dogs in the US.
MISSION Puppy Cake seeks to provide a healthy and satisfying treat for dogs and a fun experience for their owners. We use only human grade and natural ingredients in our products because we believe that Puppy Cake is held to a higher standard. Customer service is a top priority that we take very seriously. We first want to make sure every customer, from consumer to retailer, has a great experience. We stand behind our product 100% and will work to ensure satisfaction with every transaction. Our company wants to further the well being of canines throughout the US by donating a portion of our profits to animal rescue organizations.
PUPPIES & BATH This article is proudly presented by WWW.ASPCA.ORG
If you get your puppy used to regular bathing now, bathing him as an adult will be a breeze. Follow the guidelines above with your puppy. The same ideas apply. Try to focus on associating bath time with treats, toys and games, and on slowly and gently introducing your puppy to the sights, sounds and sensations of bathing. Bring some toys into the tub, encourage your puppy to play with the bubbles and make the bath seem like playtime.
It's also worthwhile to get your puppy accustomed to other kinds of grooming and handling. Take time every day to touch your puppy all over his body. Handle his feet and toes, open his mouth and look at his teeth, examine his ears, brush his fur, carefully trim his nails, lift and handle his tail, and gently restrain him in your arms for a few seconds at a time. Immediately after touching or handling, give your puppy his favorite treat or play with him. Just like with bathing, your goal is to convince your puppy that people restraining and handling him result in good things. If you can build your puppy's positive feelings about grooming when he's young, handling and grooming will be much easier for you both throughout his life. Please see our articles, Grooming Your Dog and Trimming Your Dog's Nails, for more detailed tips.
Do dogs love, and if so, how does your puppy love you? Dogs have well-known reputations as loyal, loving companions the quintessential "man's best friend" and deservedly so. Your puppy thrives on social interaction.
Dogs communicate their moods, emotions, and desires in a variety of ways, from obvious to subtle. Although affection should be reciprocal, our dogs are unique in that many offer us blind adoration, whether we deserve it or not. It is the rare pup who is indifferent to people, although mistreatment and/or poor breeding can warp the canine personality into a dysfunctional animal. Puppies are also individuals, with a wide range of personalities.
How Puppies Show Love to Other Pets
Puppies show their affection toward other dogs and even cats or other pets by sleeping together. They also lick and nuzzle each other.
Simply sharing space can be a subtle sign of affection between dogs. Affectionate dogs also may share toys or food. They often enjoy playing together, invite games and take turns being "it" during chase and tag. Pupppies show love to people in many of the same ways.
How Puppies Show Love to People
Puppies love with wags. Considered a "distance decreasing signal" a puppy tail wag often invites you to come closer begs for attention.
Puppies love with licks. Slurping your hands or even better aiming a smooch at your eyes or mouth is a canine declaration that YOU are TOPS with him! This submission gesture often is used in greetings or as an appeasement gesture a way to say I'm sorry when you act upset.
Puppies love with leaps. Jumping up looks cute in small babies but once he grows up, these love leaps can knock you over and break a hip in elderly visitors. He's jumping up to aim licks at your face that's a proper doggy greeting after all. You can always kneel for a face-slurping greeting, or teach your puppy a better greeting like to sit when you come home.
Puppies love by rolling over. Besides enjoying a tummy rub, showing the tummy puts puppies in a vulnerable position that declares trust and affection. Rolling over in front of more powerful dogs or people is how puppies show through body language they offer no threat and want to be friends.
Puppies love by shaking paws. Dogs often offer a paw just before they roll over. Puppies paw your leg to ask for attention.
Puppies love by crawling into your lap. They crave contact with you and a sign of deep affection and trust can be leaning against you or resting across your feet.
Puppies love by napping with you.They show great trust by falling asleep on your lap, and sharing your pillow can be a great treat for you both.
Puppies love by wetting the floor. This is different than urine marking. Even when pups understand potty training basics, they may squat and wet when you first greet them or raise your voice. Technically called submissive urination, consider this gesture your puppy's way of crying uncle and declaring you to be in charge.
Puppies love by chewing your stuff.Sure, it feels good for teething babies to gnaw, but they target certain objects because they smell like their most beloved person you.
Puppies love with crotch sniffs.They mean no disrespect, and to dogs, sniffing this (ahem) area is the equivalent to shaking hands in greeting. Older pups may even offer a return of the favor and present their butt for you to sniff.
Puppies love with play. They invite owners to play, bring you gifts of their favorite toys, and eagerly join in your games sometimes whether you want them to or not.
Puppies love with smiles. Some dogs actually learn to "grin" by lifting their lips to show a fun toothy smile to show their happiness and affection.
It is important to start training your new puppy as soon as you bring it home. Training can be done yourself or a professional can be hired. Local dog training classes are often available. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a trainer or look in your local newspaper for a trainer in your area.
There are two types of training: behavioral and obedience.
Behavioral training prevents and or corrects bad habits that your puppy or dog may develop or already has developed. Jumping, car chasing, begging, climbing on furniture, and chewing are just a few. It is very important to be consistent during the training process. For example, do not let your puppy on the couch unless you are planning to allow it on the couch when it is full grown. This will confuse it, causing problems. Taking the time to learn natural dog behavior and satisfying the dog's natural instincts along with proper exercise will help you communicate to your dog and can mean the difference between success and failure.
Obedience training is training the dog to obey certain commands such as sit, stay, come and teaching it to heel. Training sessions should be frequent but short to prevent your dog from becoming bored; ten to fifteen minute sessions, two or three times a day will be sufficient.
Tip: training your dog right before meals will help them associate their meal with a reward for the training and also make them more interested in the food treat you use in your training session.
Before giving a word command to your dog, speak its name to get its attention; then speak a one-word command such as "stay," "sit," "come" or "heel." Do not get impatient. You will probably have to repeat the command many times. Never use negative reinforcement. Do not call your dog to come to you for punishment because this will teach your dog not to come on command. Be sure to keep any frustration out of the tone of your voice. If you feel yourself becoming frustrated, take a break. Your dog can sense this and will start to associate training with your unhappiness. You cannot hide your frustration from a dog. You cannot pretend. Dogs can feel human emotion, so stay relaxed, firm and confident.
Some of the specific commands are "sit," "stay," "come," "down" and "heel." When speaking the commands, say them loudly and clearly, repeating them often. The dog may have to hear the commands over and over, but will soon begin to associate the word with its meaning. Always remember to praise your dog when it responds correctly. This will encourage your dog to perform correctly the next time. You may either use food, or affection such as a belly rub, a pet or verbal praise as the reward or both.
A lot of puppy and dog training classes teach the heel command only in the advanced classes. The heel command should actually be one of the first things you teach your puppy or dog. They need to learn how to follow. Once you establish this all other aspects of training will be easier and their behavior in general will be better as the dog will learn to respect you as the leader.