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Dog Parasites How to Remove the Tick? Why My Dog Has Fleas? What Do Flea Bites Look Like On Dog? 23 Best Ways to Get Rid & Prevent Ticks Dog Flea & Tick Control & Medicine 40 Best Remedies for Getting Rid of Fleas 10 Best Ways to Get Rid & Prevent Fleas How to Protect your Dog from Fleas & Ticks? Dog Flea and Ticks Misconceptions Flea & Tick Control and Treatments for Dog How Do Flea & Tick Pet Medications Work? Best Flea and Tick Medicine for Dogs Best Flea Treatment for Puppies Best Dog Flea & Tick Prevention How to Remove Dog Flea & Ticks Dog Flea & Ticks Remediation Checklist Anti-Flea Pills for Dogs Dog Flea & Tick Prevention Dog Flea & Tick Pills Dog Parasites: Fleas, Mites and Ticks Metods and Remedies for Dogs of All Breeds Dog Tick Control, Removal & Treatment Dog Tick Prevention Products Natrual Homemade DIY Dog Flea & Tick Remedies Collars, Shampoes & Medicine How to Remove Tick, Flea & Mite Frontline, Advantage, Advantix, Advocate Natural Organic Flea Control for Dogs How to Prevent & Control Dog Tick, Flea & Mite Dog Flea Treatment for Home How do You Treat Ticks on Dogs? How can a Dog Get Fleas? How to Keep Fleas & Ticks off your Dog Dog Wormer Remedies & Treatment Dog Flea & Tick Care Flea Prevention & Treatment for Yard Pet Flea Control Dog Demodex Dog Ticks Removal Heartworm Nematodes Nexguard Bravecto Seresto Shampoo Spot-On Spray Worms
WARNING! Never use a DOG flea product on a CAT as they can be extremely toxic and result in death !!!
Fleas have been around for thousands of years and have been responsible for some of the worst outbreaks of disease the world has ever seen like the Modern Plague. These tiny, wingless, blood-sucking parasites would jump from dead rats to human hosts and transmit the bacteria, causing massive sickness and death. Nowadays, fleas prefer our furry friends to humans, and also prefer cats to dogs. Keep this in mind if you live in a multi-pet household, especially with an outdoor cat. Fleas are a reality of life you can't avoid. But you can help prevent infestations in your dog's environment and keep him safe from flea-related diseases and allergic reactions by regularly using preventative medications, especially if you live in a high-risk area.
Fleas are approximately 2.5 mm in length. Their bodies are flat and without wings. Their six legs are long and assist them in jumping great distances.
Meeting with the mite or flea can occur anywhere on the walk - in a park in the yard, in the woods, on the boulevard in the city, in short, wherever there is vegetation.
Species of ticks in nature very much. But life threatening dogs are tongs family iksoidnyh - pasture.
These ticks are vectors of viral, bacterial and other diseases that are dangerous not only for dogs but for humans. Parasites come in many sizes, shapes and levels of "severity" for our pets. This collection of parasites are those commonly found on dogs and other species, sometimes affecting humans.
Fleas They make pets' lives miserable, and humans begin to itch just at the thought of them. Vets are often asked what pill, drug, dip, collar, or shampoo works the best to get rid of these persistent parasites. The answer is there is no single method or insecticide that will completely eradicate or at least control, a flea problem.
Heartworm Heartworm disease is caused by a parasite that lives mainly in the blood vessels of the lung and in the heart, transmitted by mosquitoes. Heartworm disease has been seen in several species, but dogs are very susceptible. It can be fatal and is difficult to treat, but fortunately heartworm disease is easy to prevent.
Ear Mites Ear mites are tiny parasites that live out their life cycle mostly inside the ear canal. They are quite common, and can cause severe irritation and itchiness of the ears. The most common ear mite of cats and dogs is Otodectes cynotis, and therefore an infestation with ear mites is sometimes called "otodectic mange."
Demodex Mite Demodex mites are microscopic normal inhabitants of dog skin. In a healthy animal, the mites are few in number and do not cause skin problems. In some cases though, the mites can take over, leading to a condition commonly called "mange" or demodicosis. Learn about the types of mange and various treatment options for this skin parasite.
Cheyletiella Mites Cheyletiella are mites that live on the skin, causing irritation, dandruff, and itchiness. A distinguishing feature of this mite species are the large, claw-like mouth parts. These mites can be found quite commonly on cats, dogs and rabbits, and other species. Though humans are not a natural host for this parasite, Cheyletiella mites can happily live on humans for a while, causing an itchy rash.
Babesia Protosoa Babesia infections occur in dogs and other species, and are transmitted mainly by ticks. Babesia are protozoal parasites that attack blood cells, though the severity of illness varies considerably depending on the species of Babesia involved, as well as the immune response of the infected dog. A dog bite tick that carries Babesia - protozoan parasites of blood, ill babesiosis (more commonly called - piroplasmosis). These protozoa are developing in erythrocytes. Babesia multiplies very rapidly, and eventually eat up to 50% of red blood cells, blood can not carry out their functions, and the dog dies in 98% of cases of infection.
Cuterebra Parasite A Cuterebra parasite is an opportunistic parasite found under the skin of small mammals. This parasite is the larval stage of the Cuterebra fly, who uses animal hosts to complete its life cycle. This parasite most commonly seen in summer and fall. Cuterebra fly species are also known as botflies, and they are opportunistic in that they use the small mammals (dogs, cats, rabbits, squirrels, etc.) to complete their life cycle. The adult files are large and do not feed on or bite animals. Eggs are deposited around animal burrows and on plants, rocks and other objects. The eggs stick on the animal host as the host passes by, and then the eggs hatch in response to the body heat of the animal. The hatched larvae enter the body through the mouth or nose during grooming, or less commonly, through an open wound in the animal.
Ehrlichia Ehrlichia is tick bourne Bacterial Disease. It's a type of bacteria that infect dogs and other species worldwide, causing a disease called ehrlichiosis. Ehrlichiosis has also been called tropical canine pancytopenia (and several other names). Ehrlichia is commonly transmitted by ticks.
Giardia Giardia is a one-celled protozoan parasite that lives in the intestinal tract of many animals. When this parasite produces a diarrheal disease in animals, it is called Giardiasis. Giardia lives in the intestine of infected dogs, cats, cows, humans and other animals. Giardia can be found in two forms. The active form is motile (swims around) and is called a trophozoite. The inactive form is called a cyst. The cyst has a "shell" to protect it and can survive outside the body.
Hookworm Hookworms are small, thin worms that are less than an inch long. Hookworms are intestinal parasites that are common in dogs. There are three species of hookworms that affect dogs, and some can also affect humans by migrating through the skin.
Whipworm Whipworms are intestinal parasites that are relatively common in dogs, but only occasionally seen in cats. Whipworms are small worms, reaching a maximum size of 2-3 inches. They have a thin, whip-like front end and a thicker back end. They attach themselves to the walls of the large intestine, feeding on blood.
Ringworm Technically not a parasite, Ringworm derives its name from the classic red, round "worm like" lesion seen on human skin that is infected. Ringworm is a fungus that may or may not create clinical signs in animals, but may spread from animals to humans, creating the classic lesion.
For more detailed information on Fleas, Mites and Ticks visit WWW.PAW-RESCUE.ORG
Fleas and ticks. Ticks and fleas. They go together like birds and bees, but they're actually very different. To protect your dog from both of these parasites it's important that you understand the differences between them. Here are some of the differences that separate these parasites.
FLEA & TICKS LIFE CYCLE This article proudly presented by WWW.DOGICA.COM and WWW.BECKERANIMAL HOSPITAL.COM
It's no fun having to remove ticks from your dog during the spring and summer months. Not only are these blood-suckers nasty to look at, all filled up with your dog's hard won blood as they are, they are also notoriously difficult to dislodge, making it so you have to get up close and personal in order to assure success. Because left too long or not removed entirely, these buggers can cause some serious diseases. So, what can you do to keep your dog tick-free this season? There are many different methods for getting rid of and preventing ticks on a dog, and they work in different ways. Here are ten ideas for you to consider.
1. Spot-on Treatments Using an over the counter spot-on medication that you purchase from your veterinarian, pet store, or online can be a very effective method for controlling both ticks and fleas. These medications are effective at keeping parasites at bay for up to a month. While these medications are great, you still need to be very careful about which one you use. Make sure you read all labels carefully, and if you have any doubts, be sure to get advice from your veterinarian before application.
2. Oral Medications Pills that are given once a month are readily available for dogs. These medications can work to kill both ticks and immature fleas and will disrupt the life cycle of fleas. They are easy to give and you won't have to be concerned about small children and cats coming into contact with dogs immediately after application, as you might with spot-on treatments.
3. Shampoos Bathing your dog with a shampoo that contains medicated ingredients will generally kill ticks on contact. This can be an inexpensive, though labor-intensive method of protecting your dog during the peak tick season. You will need to repeat the process more often, about every two weeks, as the effective ingredients won't last as long as a spot-on or oral medication.
4. Tick Dips A dip is a concentrated chemical that needs to be diluted in water and applied to the animal's fur with a sponge or poured over the back. This treatment is not meant to be rinsed off after application. The chemicals used in dips can be very strong, so be sure to read the labels carefully before use. You should not use a dip for very young animals - under four months or for pregnant or nursing pets. Ask your veterinarian for advice before treating puppies, or pregnant or nursing pets.
5. Tick Collars Collars that repel ticks are an additional preventive you can use, though they are mainly only useful for protecting the neck and head from ticks. The tick collar needs to make contact with your dog's skin in order to transfer the chemicals onto the dog's fur and skin. When putting this type of collar on your dog, you will need to make sure there is just enough room to fit two fingers under the collar when it's around the dog's neck. Cut off any excess length of collar to prevent your dog from chewing on it. Watch for signs of discomfort in case an allergic reaction to the collar occurs. Make sure you read the labels carefully when choosing a collar.
6. Powders Another method of topical medication, tick powders work to kill and repel ticks from your dog. These powders should be used with care during application. Be sure that the powder you are using is labeled for dogs before use, as well as for your dog's specific age. Also, make sure you check the label to make sure that the product is designed to kill ticks as well as fleas. This very fine powder can be an irritant to the mouth or lungs if inhaled, so use small amounts and slowly rub it into the skin. Keep powders away from the face and eyes when applying. You will need to reapply the product more often, about once a week during peak season. Some powders can also be used in areas where your dog sleeps, and in other parts of the household your dog frequents.
7. Tick Sprays Another topical application of medication, tick spray kills ticks quickly and provides residual protection. Sprays can be used in between shampoos and dips, and when you are planning to spend time out in wooded areas, where ticks are most prevalent with your dog. Be careful when using this product, and other tick control products, around your dog's face, and do not use it on or around any other animals in the home.
8. Treat the House and Lawn Keeping your lawn, bushes, and trees trimmed back will help reduce the population of fleas and ticks in your backyard. If there are fewer areas for these parasites to live and breed, there will be fewer of them to be concerned with. If you still have a problem, consider using one of the various household and yard sprays or granular treatments that are available from your veterinarian, pet store, or local garden center. Just be careful when using these products, as they can be harmful to animals, fish, and humans. If you have a severe problem or you are concerned about the proper handling of these chemicals, you might want to consider hiring an exterminator to apply yard and area sprays to control the ticks and fleas.
9. Check your Dog(s) After a romp outside in areas where ticks could be lurking, be sure to carefully check your dog for ticks. Look between the toes, inside the ears, between the legs, and around the neck, deep in the fur. If you find any ticks before they have had a chance to attach and become engorged, you may have prevented serious illness for your pet. If you do find a tick attached to your dog, removal should be done immediately and carefully, making sure to get all parts of the tick's body removed from the skin.
10. Keep Dog(s) Indoors While you do have to take your dog outside a few times a day, it is probably not a good idea to allow him to stay outside for extended periods during the height of tick season. Preventing your dog from roaming through wooded areas where ticks are likely to be lying in wait is a very effective way of keeping your pet safe from exposure, but you will still have to check your dog over thoroughly, even after short walks through grass and brush. You may still have a few ticks wandering around your yard, but if you keep things tidy and use preventives for when your dog does go out and check your dog over for any rogue ticks that might have attached themselves, your dog should have minimal risk of becoming a meal for ticks this summer.
WAYS TO NATURALLY GET RID OF FLEAS & TICKS
WASHES, SPRAYS, DIPS AND RUBS
11. Essential Oils Flea Spray Some essential oils make for excellent flea remedies for dogs. Citronella, eucalyptus, peppermint, tea tree, and rosemary will all naturally repel fleas. If your dog does not mind a spray bottle, dilute a few drops of your chosen essential oil into a 300ml-400ml of water and spray directly onto your dog's coat. It's important to know that a number of essential oils, like tea tree oil, can be very toxic to pets unless it is diluted appropriately (.1%-1%). Do not apply a homemade essential oil solution to your pet until you have confirmed its safety at an authoritative source like petmd.com and spoken with your vet.
12. Apple Cider Vinegar and Salt Flea Spray The beauty of apple cider vinegar is that it is a way to treat fleas on dogs naturally by balancing a dog's pH levels, creating an environment that is optimal for your dog's health yet unsustainable for fleas. Dilute six cups of apple cider vinegar with four cups of water, add a dash of sea salt, then spray directly onto your dog's coat. Make sure to avoid your dog's eyes.
13. Lemon Bath This lemon bath is simple to make and will keep your pet smelling fresh and noticeably flea free. Simply dilute half a cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice into two cups of water, then add a squeeze of your normal pet-friendly soap or shampoo for a natural way of treating fleas in dogs.
14. Lather Bath Any pet-friendly shampoo that produces a lather will naturally kill existing fleas. When choosing flea remedies natural is always the best choice, so select an organic pet shampoo without any added chemicals. Once your dog is sufficiently lathered, leave the shampoo on for just a couple of minutes while it does its work. This is a great way of killing existing fleas before moving on to flea prevention remedies.
15. Rosemary Dip If your dog enjoys playing in water, this Rosemary dip will seem like a fun game rather than a flea remedy. Steep fresh rosemary leaves in boiling water, then strain the mixture and dilute it well in warm water. When the water reaches a comfortable temperature, pour the mixture over your dog and let it dry naturally.
16. Multi-Purpose Neem Oil Neem oil is a natural insect repellent and one of the lesser-known flea treatments. If you are able to obtain this oil, native to Burma, Sri Lanka, and parts of India, you can apply it directly to your dog's coat, add it to your normal natural dog shampoo, or dilute it well to make your own flea spray.
17. Organic Soaps By swapping out your usual dog shampoo for organic soaps such as organic peppermint soap or organic Rose soap, you can wash your dog as normal and get a flea-free and great smelling dog at the end of it.
18. Aromatherapy Spray If you are familiar with aromatherapy, you can make up a batch of aromatherapy that will not only treat a flea infestation but also prevent future occurrences, whilst acting as a natural soother for your dog. Try sweet almond oil as the base oil, and add drops of Atlas cedar oil, lemon eucalyptus oil, geranium oil, bay laurel oil, common myrrh oil, and lavender oil.
19. Coconut Oil Rub Is there anything that coconut oil can't do? Coconut oil can help in a number of ways when treating fleas. Rubbing a teaspoon of coconut oil directly into your dog's coat will not only repel fleas but will make the coat shiny and reduce body odor. If added to your dog's normal food, coconut oil can even help treat intestinal parasites due to its antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties.
20. Lavender or Cedar Oil Flea Collar A home-made flea collar is an ingenious way of keeping your dog's flea protection constant without having to spray or rub them with the mixture. Either purchase or make a simple collar or bandanna, then dilute a few drops of lavender oil or cedar oil in water and apply it directly to the collar or bandanna.
21. Vodka Flea Collar Who knew that vodka was an effective way of treating fleas in dogs? Buy or make a simple dog collar, then soak it in a teaspoon of unflavoured vodka and let dry. You could also add a few drops of your essential oil of choice to make a scented collar, otherwise just using the vodka alone is a good alternative for dogs who do not like the scent of essential oils.
COMBS AND SACHETS
22. Lemon Comb Lemon is widely recognized for its abilities to both repel and kill fleas while being completely harmless to dogs and humans. Simply dip your dog's regular comb or brush into fresh lemon juice and apply it to their hair as normal. For a short-haired breed, a cloth dipped in lemon juice will give the same benefit.
23. Flea Comb If you already have a store-bought flea comb, this is one way of treating fleas that we would recommend, and it does not require any additional purchases. Flea combs do not contain any chemicals but are specially designed to remove fleas and their eggs from your dog's coat. If your dog is already infested with fleas, this is a great way of removing existing fleas before using other flea home remedies for dogs to keep future infestations away.
24. Flea Sachet If your dog does not like being sprayed or having products applied directly to their coat, this flea sashay is easy to make and will provide the same benefits. Buy or make a small bag of breathable fabric such as hessian or muslin, then fill the bag with lemon peel, dried lavender buds, and cedar chips. Tie up the top of the bag and place it near your dog's sleeping area. The mixture may lose its potency after about a month, at which time you can simply reopen the bag and replace with fresh ingredients.
FOOD AND DRINK
25. Vinegar or Apple Cider Vinegar Drink To combat and prevent fleas from the inside out, try dilating vinegar or apple cider vinegar in your dog's drinking water. You will need to test them first to make sure they enjoy the taste as you do not want to put them off drinking their water altogether. One teaspoon of your vinegar of choice for every four cups of drinking water is a good ratio to aim for. Not only will you keep fleas at bay, but your dog's coat and skin will also see the benefits to.
26. Brewer's Yeast Perhaps the least obvious way to treat fleas on dogs naturally is to start from the inside out. It remains true that healthy dogs are less likely to host fleas, and one way of improving the health of your dog while warding off fleas is to add a small amount of brewer's yeast to your dog's food. Just a half teaspoon of brewer’s yeast mixed in with your dog's normal meal makes for an effective flea remedy.
FLEAS IN THE HOUSE
When there are fleas on your dog and you let your dog inside, what do you have? Fleas in the house, of course. If you are wondering how to get rid of fleas on dog bedding and other items your dog has access to in your house, read on for plenty of ways of eliminating fleas at home.
27. Machine Wash When you have got fleas in the house, the first step is to gather up all soft furnishings your dog spends any time on, including blankets, towels, beds, pillows, and mats, and put everything through the washing machine. It is a big task, but it is an essential one to combat your existing flea problem.
28. Tumble Dry Washing your soft furnishings is important, but putting everything in the tumble dryer will be even more effective. Just 15 minutes in a hot tumble dryer will kill fleas in all stages of growth, including eggs, larvae, and adult fleas.
29. Vacuum Your vacuum cleaner is going to be your biggest ally when it comes to treating fleas at home. A water-based vacuum cleaning system is ideal, as the fleas are drowned as soon as they are picked up by the vacuum cleaner. For dry vacuum cleaners, remember that the fleas you collected will try to escape as soon as you open up the canister or bag, so do this immediately and outside your home. Ideally, spray your vacuum cleaner canister with water as soon as you open it to prevent fleas from escaping.
30. Baking Soda By sprinkling baking soda directly onto your carpet and then penetrating and disturbing the carpet fibers by sweeping side to side with a broom, you will dehydrate fleas and their eggs. Leave the baking soda on your carpet overnight, then you can simply vacuum up the baking soda and the fleas in the morning.
31. Salt Just like the baking soda method above, sprinkling salt on your carpet and soft furnishings before vacuuming the next day will dehydrate and kill fleas and flea eggs. An excellent flea treatment, salt still needs to be used with caution as it can cause your vacuum cleaner to rust if not properly cleaned out after you have finished vacuuming.
32. Lemon Spray Lemon spray is a brilliant way of treating fleas that doesn’t require vacuuming afterward. Boil a thinly sliced lemon in water and then let the mixture cool down overnight. In the morning, fill a spray bottle with the mixture and lightly dampen your carpet and all soft furnishings in your home.
33. Steam Clean Steam cleaning your carpets and soft furnishings drowns fleas on impact and will also keep your home looking and smelling great.
34. Diatomaceous Earth Diatomaceous earth is a fine powder created - strangely enough, from the microscopic remains of algae. We will admit it sounds strange, but an incredibly effective way to treat fleas naturally is to sprinkle diatomaceous earth on your carpet and let it sit there for 48 hours. Ideally, block off the area so no one - especially your dog can walk over it during this time. Afterward, vacuum the carpet thoroughly. Diatomaceous earth is an effective way of drying out and killing flea eggs, to prevent another round of infestation.
35. Flea Trap If you are wondering how to get rid of fleas inside your home, this flea trap is an ingenious idea that does not involve spraying anything on your soft furnishings. Simply fill a plate or bowl with warm water and add a few drops of your usual dish soap, then leave it on the floor overnight. The high viscosity of the mixture acts as a glue, trapping fleas onto the surface. In the morning, simply empty out the mixture and wash your plate or bowl well.
36. Rosemary Prevention If you have a pestle and mortar handy, you can mix up a batch of Rosemary powder to prevent a future flea infestation. Add your choice of other ingredients including peppermint, wormwood, fennel, and rue to make a fine powder to sprinkle throughout your home.
FLEAS IN THE YARD
Just because you can not see them does not mean they are not there. If your dog has a case of the fleas, there is a very good chance they are lurking in the darkest, moistest areas of your backyard too. When it comes to outdoor flea remedies natural methods are always the best, and here are our top tips for treating fleas in the backyard.
37. Keep your Garden Bare Fleas love to hide, so the barer your garden is, the less likely it will be they will choose your garden to hide in. Trim or remove overgrown bushes and hedges, and keep your garden weed free.
38. Beware of the Damp Fleas thrive in damp, dark places, and they will avoid sunlight as much as possible. Examine your garden through the eyes of a flea and ask yourself where they'd be most likely to hide. With this in mind, remove twigs, dead leaves, and excess mulch from under bushes. Allow the sunlight to access your backyard as much as possible and avoid overwatering.
39. The Good Kind of Worms No one likes the idea of worms running rampant in their garden unless we are talking about a certain type of nematodes - Steinerma Carpocapsea to be exact. These tiny worms eat fleas while being completely safe for your dog and your garden.
40. Flea Repelling Plants An excellent way to treat fleas naturally is to plant certain plants that naturally repel fleas. Spearmint, chrysanthemums, lavender, and Penny Royal are natural flea repellents for your garden, and there are plenty of others. You may need to do some research to discover which plants will grow well in your area before heading to your local plant nursery.
A NOTE ON ESSENTIAL OILS
You may have noticed a large number of essential oils mentioned in the various flea home remedies for dogs in this article. When it comes to flea remedies natural essential oils can be incredibly effective, and there are a number of different scents you can use. The choice will ultimately come down to the essential oils available to you, and your personal preferences. Since dogs have such sensitive noses, we recommend first testing a very small amount of an essential oil near your dog to see how they react. Just like humans, dogs will have some scents that they enjoy more than others and some that they find almost repulsive. In your quest to treat fleas naturally, you should also keep in mind your dog's preferences and avoid spraying all over their bedding with an essential oil they can't stand. Just imagine having to sleep every night with your head on a pillow scented with your least favorite scent, and you will understand the importance of letting your dog have a say in the scents and ingredients you choose.
There are many ideas about the best way to remove a tick, one of the most common tricks being to light a match, blow it out, and put the hot tip on the tick to make the tick "angry" enough to back out on its own. The truth is, this can actually make things worse for you and the tick, injecting more foreign material into you or your pet from the tick. Early removal of the tick is very important. Find out how to check for and remove ticks safely in this how to.
WATCH DOG VIDEO !!! REMOVING THE TICK Use latex exam gloves to examine your pet for ticks. Examine using good lighting.
Check your pet daily for ticks by thoroughly feeling for any lumps under the hair. Pay close attention to ears, around face, eyes, legs, and belly.
Ticks will range in size from the size of a sesame seed to the size of a fingernail engorged.
When is tick is found embedded in the skin, use a fine pointed tweezers or tick remover tool at the point of attachment, and grasp the tick head firmly and as close to the skin as possible. Remember to wear latex gloves when doing this.
Using slow, steady, and firm traction, pull the tick straight out from the skin. Some tools, such as the Tick Twister, recommend a circular twist motion while pulling.
It is critical to NOT squeeze the tick body at any time this can inject more potential pathogens in to you or your pet while the tick is embedded. Cleanse the skin with mild soap and water.
If a small part of the tick breaks off, you can try to remove it as you would a splinter, but it is probably best to leave it alone. The body will "eject" it in time.
Place the tick in a jar of alcohol, noting the date, in case of future illness. Tick identification and location of tick infestation will be important.
Tips: Do NOT use a match or caustic materials to try to smother the tick or get the tick to "back out". This doesn't work, and may be causing the tick to regurgitate more saliva (and potential pathogens) into the skin. Same goes for "smothering" the tick with petroleum jelly or similar material.
Never try to burn, smother, or otherwise get a tick to "back out." Also, do not attempt to remove a tick with your fingers. These methods do not work and can cause the tick to regurgitate more potential pathogens into the dog's skin.
Talk to your vet about effective tick control (spray, powder, spot-on, or collar) for your pet.
Check pet daily, especially in the spring when ticks are most common.
But if after 3-7 days incubation period, the dog being a little bit changed - urgently need to contact your veterinarian. If you have noticed at least some of these symptoms: sudden weakness, loss of appetite, most of the time the dog is, quickens the heartbeat and respiration, temperature over 39.5 degrees, vomiting, diarrhea, fetid smell from the mouth, urine and feces become red, - run to the doctor for microscopic examination of blood smears.
The treatment is strictly individual, but always very serious, with a dropper. Recovered from the animals become sterile immunity, and fell ill again, barely on the mend, after the third bite is possible, even death. After treatment, the dog most often suffers from disorders of the liver for life.
Today the market has a lot of protective equipment in the form of sprays, collars and drops to the withers. The composition of any form of any protective agent is the active ingredient and a filler, in which the active ingredient is dissolved this. Drops of different sprays concentration of active ingredient, while the collars and the active substance and the solvent is plotted on a synthetic basis.
REMOVING THE MITE Skin mites (mange) is more common in dogs then cats. There are two kinds of mange, Demodectic - Demodex or Red Mange, and Sarcoptic (scabies). The Sarcoptic mites burrow into the skin, and the Demodectic mites live in hair follicles. Both mites cause intense itching, hair loss, and crusting of the skin. Sarcoptic mange is highly contagious between dogs, and a dog that has this should be immediately separated from other pets in the household.
How do I determine if my pet has mites? Mites cannot be seen by the human eye. However, hair loss, dry patches of skin, crusted areas on your pets body are clues that they could be suffering from mites. A vet can only determine if your pet has mites by performing a skin scraping. This procedure does not hurt your pet. The vet will take a skin sample and look under a microscope to see if indeed your pet has mites.
Step 1: You will need a flea/tick comb, protective gloves, Defendex shampoo - 100% natural and safe shampoo, Neem Oil, and wash tub.
Step 2: Place your dog in a wash tub, and put on protective gloves. Wet your dog thoroughly, and using the flea/tick comb, separate your pets fur. Using the Defendex Shampoo, massage thoroughly into your pets skin, leaving on the dog for 10 minutes, avoid eye area, thoroughly rinse with warm water.
Step 3: Blend a 1/2 cup of Neem Oil and one gallon of warm water. Using a sponge, massage into pet's skin for five minutes. Allow to air dry. Repeat every 2 to 3 days until mites are gone. You may use pure Neem Oil directly onto the skin on the affected areas. Always avoid your pet's eye area.
Step 4: Continue to treat your dog with Defendex shampoo to soothe the skin over the next few weeks. Wash any bedding or blankets used by your pet with the Defendex shampoo in hot water and dry on high heat. You may also wipe down any crates your pet may use with Defendex shampoo as well.
Step 5: Revisit your vet to have another skin scraping done on your pet to determine if the mites are gone.
REMOVING THE FLEAS An external parasite, fleas use their mouth to attach themselves to their host, sucking their blood to survive. Contrary to popular belief, fleas do not have wings, but are able to move and jump very quickly. Fleas cause intense itching and inflamed skin, and can transmit infectious disease to humans.
How do I determine if my pet has fleas? Separate their fur by using a flea/tick comb, examine the back of their neck and tailbone area first. If you see dark spots on your pets skin, this is flea dirt (also known as flea feces), your pet may have fleas. If you see movement on your pets skin, this too could be fleas.
Step 1: You will need a flea/tick comb, protective gloves, Defendex shampoo (100% natural and safe shampoo), triple antibiotic ointment, wash tub, bowl with dish detergent, vinegar, and baking soda.
Step 2: Place your pet in a wash tub, and put protective gloves on. Start by combing your pet with the special flea comb; as the comb pulls fleas out of the fur, place them in the bowl you have prepared with the dish detergent (this will kill the fleas).
Step 3: After you have combed through your pet, bathing with Defendex shampoo will help soothe their irritated skin caused by the flea's saliva. Depending on the severity, it will be important to repeat Step 2 for about 6 weeks, as adult fleas lay eggs that hatch every 7-10 days. Bathing your pet once or twice a week may be needed to help the skin.
Step 4:Use Triple Antibiotic Ointment where needed on severe lesions
Step 5: Discuss Flea Prevention with your vet
Step 6: Decontaminating your home and yard is next. Fleas live in everything, leaves, grass, wood, blankets, rugs, bedding, crates, and many other areas. Use baking soda - work into the fibers on rugs, and furniture, prior to vacuuming. Washing blankets and bedding in hot water and drying on high heat will be required once a week until the fleas are gone. Next, a good yard clean up will be important, removing debris, and dead leaves will help disturb the fleas habitat.
Besides using Defendex shampoo, here are some other tips for natural remedies to help your pet ward off any fleas. Using a mixture of vinegar and water, spray the areas where your pet lives indoors and outdoors. Also, add a small amount of fresh garlic to your pet's food to help repel fleas, the garlic is unappealing to the fleas with brewer's yeast.
How would I know if my dog has fleas or mites? A dog that is sensitive (allergic) to flea bites will show typical signs of intense skin irritation with self-inflicted sores and hair loss - especially along the back by the tail head. The adult fleas are small but are visible to the naked eye and may be seen moving quickly over the skin.
The characteristic comma-shaped droppings may be seen - if in doubt comb the dog's skin so these droppings fall onto a wet white surface and they will dissolve to give a red colour. Some people can become sensitised to flea bites, so if a family member suffers from the typical red sores, it is likely there are fleas present in the environment. Dogs that are not allergic to the flea saliva may carry fleas without scratching or showing the typical skin sores. These can be a source of infestation in a multi-pet household.
Prevention is key. While prescription flea and tick preventives require a trip to your veterinarian, they often offer more convenience and peace-of-mind than over-the-counter options. There are many topical flea and tick prevention treatments available for your dog as well as flea collars that can be convenient since they typically last longer than topical treatment. Talk with your veterinarian to find the best option for your four-legged friend.
Actively check your dog Fleas and itching seem to go hand-in-hand, but you shouldn't wait until you see your dog scratching to check for fleas. Regularly run a flea comb through his coat and if you find your dog already has a flea and tick infestation, your first step is to eliminate the parasites from your pet. Choose a flea and tick spray to keep adult fleas and ticks off your pup or bathe your dogs with a flea and tick shampoo made to kill these critters. If your dog is outside in wooded areas, check him regularly for ticks and remove any you find right away. Visit your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog may have a tick-borne illness.
1. Keeping your carpet clean is key to preventing infestations. Use a high-power vacuum or get your carpet professionally cleaned periodically. Or your could get rid of your carpet altogether!
2. When moving into a new location, make sure it has been thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.
3. Keeping your pet and his bedding clean can keep the fleas away. Wash beds and blankets in hot water and dry on high heat to kill flea eggs and larvae. But keep in mind, frequent bathing of your pet will reduce the length of effectiveness of topical flea medications.
4. Don't skimp on quality of flea-preventative meds. Since fleas lay eggs as early as 24 hours after latching onto your pet, you want to make sure your medication is working as quickly as possible to kill fleas and prevent them from spreading.
5. Avoid the neighbourhoods full with a lot of cats around. They usually become a main source for ticks.
6. Mowing Most people who know me will tell you I am not a fan of mowing or lawns in general. However if you live in a flea prolific area, you need to keep your lawn cut short.
7. Plants That Guard Keep pots of lemon balm, sage, rosemary, catnip, lemongrass, basil and mint outside of your main "potty" doors and throughout your yard. These plants help repel fleas through the natural oils that they secrete and deter fleas from entering the house.
8. Nematodes When soil temperatures rise above 45 degrees for at least 2 to 3 weeks - spring, summer and fall in most areas, use nematodes to minimize flea populations. Nematodes are your best friends when it comes to keeping your yard flea-free. If fleas aren't in your yard, they are less likely to find their way onto your dog. Nematodes are tiny wormlike multicellular animals found in the soil. There are a lot of different kinds of nematodes, good and bad. The good ones I am talking about here are beneficial in controlling many garden pests like ants, termites and grubs - but they also eat fleas!
9. Garlic Fleas don't like garlic, so it's a natural flea repellent that's safe to use in the yard and with your pets. When treating your yard with garlic, just give everything one light spray. If you use it too heavily, garlic might harm some of those beneficial bugs you do want in your hard, so just give everything a light spray and don't soak your grass or plants in the liquid.
10. Treat your house. Foggers and sprays are an effective way to control fleas indoors. Most experts recommend sprays, because foggers can miss crevices where fleas hide. Choose only safe, nontoxic insecticidal sprays for indoor use. It's also a good idea to vacuum thoroughly each week, being sure to get under cushions - a favorite flea hideout.
HOW DOG FLEA & TICKS REMEDIES WORK? This article proudly presented by WWW.PET360.COM and Jessica Remitz
An infestation of fleas or ticks on your pet can be a nightmare for your both, from endless flea baths and powders to the threat of Lyme disease. Using preventative medication can combat those bugs and keep your pet happy, healthy and doing what they do best - running, jumping and playing outside. Learn more about flea and tick medications and how they work, below. There are a variety of different types of flea and tick medications, including topical treatments, oral medication and flea and tick collars. To be effective, the medications rely on chemicals that paralyzes and / or kills fleas or ticks at their various life stages, said Susan O'Bell, DVM at the MSPCA-Angell Animal Medical Center. Common chemicals found in these medications include permethrins, fipronil, amitraz and diatomaceous earth that are responsible for killing the bugs before they can lay eggs on your dog's skin.
Topical treatments tend to be the most popular form of flea and tick prevention, and are used by applying the medication between your dog's shoulder blades or at the base of their neck. They are absorbed by the animal's oil and sweat glands in the skin, and help your pet repel fleas and ticks within 24 hours. These treatments are waterproof, but need a full day to dry after being applied. Some products claim to repel mosquitos and flies, but both don't, according to Bell. For prevention of additional pests, including heartworm, mites and round or hookworm, talk to your veterinarian about the proper product to use for your pet. The newer modern way to treat / kill fleas & ticks is external. Zoetis (Pfizer) bio company did reveal and produce the new technology, which actually injects no any chemical substances into your dog's body, but it does resides over (on) your dog's skin & fur and succeeds on killing fleas, ticks and their offsprings (eggs). More innovative way is Ceresto collar, which claimed to be naturally organic with no any chemical ingredients addition. If you are looking to purchase preventative products elsewhere, be sure to always shop for flea and tick medication from trusted, reliable sources. Knowing the source of these products, particularly in case of product failure or an adverse reaction, will help you seek help if you need it.
Once you have determined which product you will use, make sure to read the instruction labels carefully and follow the directions closely, Bell said. Call a consumer hotline or your vet if you have any questions before use, and make sure you follow the age, weight and animal guidelines on the label. Some medications safe for dogs, like permethrins, can be very toxic to cats, making it essential to use the right product for the proper pet. Though rare, more adverse reactions to these medications is possible, so be sure to monitor your pet closely in the first few days following its application, and try not to give your pet any additional medications when trying a new flea and tick treatment.
FLEA & TICK REMEDIES FOR PUPPIES This article proudly presented by WWW.AKC.ORG and Liz Donovan
After you have welcomed a new puppy into your home, it is important to use all available resources to set him up for a long and happy life. Those include getting all required and recommended vaccinations for your puppy, beginning the socialization process, and initiating a regimen of preventive care, including heartworm preventatives and flea & tick medication. Most flea & tick medications are not safe to use on puppies until they have reached at least 7 or 8 weeks of age. Your veterinarian will be able to recommend a flea andtick medication to use and advise you on when it's safe to begin administering it to your puppy.
How Flea Bites look like On Puppy? Flea Symptoms on Dog So what do flea bites look like? Fleas leave tiny, red, raised dots on your dog's skin. They are typically smaller than other insect bites, although they can become inflamed after a dog scratches. Some dogs have a stronger reaction to flea bites than others, which creates a much larger red area. Flea bites are much more obvious on humans, since we don't have dense layers of fur. On humans, flea bites look like tiny red dots. If you have a flea bite, however, you probably won't be worrying too much about what it looks like you will be more concerned by how much it itches. Along with the symptoms of flea bites, the best way to determine if your dog has fleas is to look for fleas themselves or their droppings. Fleas like to infest the neck, ears, lower back, abdomen, and base of the tail in dogs. These tiny parasites measure approximately 1-to-3 millimeters in length, but their dark brown or black bodies are relatively easy to see moving around, especially on light colored dog hair or skin. If you don't catch the fleas while they are active, you can always look for the most obvious sign of fleas their droppings. "Flea dirt," as flea droppings are commonly called, looks like flecks of pepper scattered over the infested area of your dog's body. These specks are actually dried blood, and if you place them on a damp paper towel they will turn from black to brown and then to red as the blood rehydrates. The best way to search for fleas and flea dirt is to comb your pet with a flea comb. These fine-toothed combs pick up fleas and flea dirt, making it easy for you to spot evidence of flea activity on your pet.
According to veterinarian and AKC Family Dog columnist Jeff Grognet, Capstar, is safe to give to puppies as young as four weeks old and a minimum of 2 pounds. This medication is given in a tablet form to treat flea infestations. Because its active ingredient (nitenpyram) works for only 24 hours, it is not effective as a preventive medication. Always speak to your veterinarian before offering your dog a new medication to ensure it is safe for your dog to take and to confirm dosage.
Flea Shampoos & Collars: Most veterinarians do not recommend flea shampoos or collars for puppies or adult dogs because they are not very effective, Grognet says. There is an exception: The collar, Seresto, is designed to slowly release the active chemicals (imidacloprid and flumethrin). This product may be useful at stopping flea larvae from molting. Seresto is effective against fleas and ticks for up to 8 months and can be used on a dog as young as 7 weeks old. Speak with your veterinarian about this option. Grognet also points out that some flea shampoos can be beneficial for nursing dogs because it will prevent exposing the puppies to the chemicals, which are washed off with the shampoo. Some experts swear by bathing a flea-infested pregnant dog or young puppy in Dawn soap, but Grognet is wary of this method. It strips out the dog's natural oils and does not kill fleas. If you do use this method, Jerry Klein, AKC's Chief Veterinary Officer, advises being thorough in rinsing. Many times the rinsing should take longer than the lathering. The complete rinse after a shampoo is one of the most important aspects of any bath, and often hurried in many cases. Consult with your veterinarian before using any product on your dog, especially if she's pregnant or nursing.
Flea comb: As an alternative to medications or for pups younger than four weeks, Grognet recommends using a flea comb to check your puppy for the presence of fleas and safely remove them.
Clean the home: Depending on the severity of the infestation, it may be necessary to also treat your home to ensure flea eggs and larvae don't grow to reinfest your puppy later. Of the flea population, only 5 percent includes adult fleas on pets. The rest are in various stages of the life cycle and can be found outdoors or in your home. Vacuum your carpets - remember to remove the bag afterward and clean all bedding your pet has used as well as any chairs with padding. Speak to your veterinarian about what additional steps you should take to treat the problem and prevent it from returning.
Prevent & Control Once your puppy is old enough, it's important to start using a monthly preventive medication to ensure that he won't be affected by fleas or ticks in the future. Many of the medications available and mentioned in the chart below are effective for preventing both fleas and ticks. Speak to your veterinarian about the best medication for your pet based on your location, the age and weight of your pet and more.
A Clean Home is a Happy Home ! Around the house, laundering pet beds and furniture covers, and vacuuming and disinfecting the floors - not just around your pet's living spaces but all over - will help to control the population of fleas - just make sure you do not use products with volatile organic compounds. Always dump the bag or cannister of the vacuum, since fleas can continue to live inside the container.
A lot of people are reluctant to use chemical flea treatments because of the possibility of a toxic reaction with the skin. "If it isn't safe for my children, how can it be safe for my pet?" they ask. Unless it is a full blown flea infestation, you may have good results by using gentler and safer methods for flea eradication and control.
Natural prevention also entails checking your dog regularly, for fleas and ticks. Combing her over a white surface helps if/when fleas fall you will easily see them. Make sure to remove ticks entirely when you find them.
Here are some natural methods for keeping your dog flea and tick free in the spring and summer:
Vacuuming / Cleaning Vacuum cleaners collect fleas from carpets, floors and dark shaded places underneath the furniture. If you are facing a flea infestation, don't forget to dispose of your vacuum bags, or preferably use water based vacuum cleaners that immediately drown fleas. If you have a bagless vacuum system, make sure to immediately splash all the dust and fleas with water, as you can expect the vacuumed fleas to attempt escape as soon as you open your vacuum cleaner. If the flea infestation is out of proportions, you might want to invest in a professional carpet cleaning service.
Bathing / Washing Keeping your dog and the environment it's in clean is the best job you can do. Soapy water will get rid of fleas, and regularly washing beyour dog's bedding sleeps will eliminate flea eggs and larvae.
Grooming / Combing Dead dog hair gives birth to mats, which are a breeding ground for fleas and a hiding spot for ticks. Some breeds require more grooming than others, but regular combing is always the key. Fine flea combs are a great tool that can be used daily, and any fleas caught should be drowned in soapy water. Combing your dog will also allow you to see what's going on closer to the skin, hence you will be able to spot ticks that might had just started their supper.
Keeping your dog healthy and strong Strong immune system in pets and humans keeps insects away, as they prefer to attack weaker, more sensitive animals.
Coconut oil rub Coconut oil is truly one of nature's greatest gifts. Amazingly enough, this oil can be given to your pets to improve their overall health. In its pure, unprocessed state it contains lauric acid, which acts as a natural flea repellent, so only but pure organic, unprocessed coconut oil. Rubbing only half a tablespoon of oil on your doggy's fur will reduce body odor, improve coat shine, and act as a flea, tick or mite repellent. When ingested, coconut oil has natural antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral properties and helps expel or kill intestinal parasites. Also, another one of my absolute favorites.
Oranges, lemons and grapefruit Place orange, lemon and grapefruit peels in a blender and puree it. Boil some water and add it to the puree until you obtain a soft paste. Let it cool and rub onto your dog's fur. It will make your pet smell wonderfully, and it's an excellent natural flea repellent. Citrus is a natural flea repellent. Slice a lemon (score and leave the peel on) and pour 1 cup of boiling water over it. Let sit overnight this water can then be sprayed on your dog. This will kill fleas and temporarily prevent new ones from taking up residence on your dog.
Brewer's yeast and garlic Along with ACV, this is another one of my favorite combos. Apparently, fleas dislike the taste of garlic and brewer's yeast. A few years back I used to prepare homemade doggy biscuits and treats for my dogs, and I'd always add garlic. I never recall having any problems with fleas back them. Thinking back on it now, due to time constraints I stopped doing that some time ago, and I've had to fight fleas much harder ever since. But I was back to using this magical mix just at the beginning of summer, and I can say that my dog's have been flea and tick free, even after daily walks in a nearby park and forest.
1tbs of brewer's yeast or natural yeast for a 50-pound (23kg) dog and a few cloves of garlic, or garlic powder added to food. Naturally, adjust the amounts for smaller / bigger dogs. Too much garlic can cause anemia in dogs, so as with everything, balance is the key.
Mint infusion Mix the following ingredients: 2 lemons (squeezed into juice) 10 tsp apple cider vinegar 10 mint leaves Warm water
Leave it to sit overnight, strain and place into a squirt bottle. Spray onto your dog.
Cloves and camphor spray 33oz (1 liter) ethanol or pure alcohol 3 camphor rock crystals 3 dried cloves 1 cup of apple cider vinegar
Mix the camphor crystals in alcohol until they fully dissolve. Add cloves and ACV. Pour the mixture into a squirt bottle and spray it onto the animal's fur, protecting its eyes and mouth. Let it sit for 2 hours, and then rinse out with water.
Wash your dog with organic rose bar soap Washing your dog with rose soap is a natural way to repel fleas invading its body, and it will leave your dog's hair super soft. Rose bar soaps are usually easily accessible and a great low cost solution.
Wash your dog with organic peppermint soap Organic peppermint soap should contain a fair amount of peppermint essential oil. This oil is deadly for insects like fleas and ticks, since it causes the insect's nervous system to break down. It also smells wonderfully.
Bathe your pet in a natural, herbal shampoo Use an herbal shampoo that contains a combination of pine cedar, bergamot, rosemary, lavender, eucalyptus, citronella, juniper or geranium.
Dry pennyroyal (not as essential oil) Dried pennyroyal can be placed around the house or dog house. It's a biological deworming agent, as well as an excellent insect repellent.However some caution is required. If you're keen on using it in essential oil form, be cautious with its application. As essential oil it can never be ingested internally due to high toxicity.
Alcohol, distilled water and essential oils spray 3.3oz (100 ml) ethanol or pure alcohol 6.6oz (200 ml) distilled water 30 drops lemon tree essential oil 30 drops eucalyptus essential oil 60 drops lavender essential oil Spray it onto your dog's fur, rub it in and leave to work its magic!
Aromatherapy spray against ticks, fleas and phlebotomus (sandflies) For those more familiar with aromatherapy oils, this spray is a strong insect repellent, it regenerates hair and skin, and soothes the dog. It is also recommended for dog owners.
Base oil: Sweet almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus dulci) Drops of: English or common lavender oil (Lavandula angustifolia) Geranium oil (Pelargonium graveolens) Common myrrh oil (Commiphora myrrha) Bay laurel oil (Laurus nobilis) Lemon eucalyptus oil (Eucalyptus citriodora) Atlas cedar oil (Cedrus atlântica)
Homeopathic remedies Sulphur 30c in water. Homeopathic sulphur is usually not used to repel ticks, as its potency works better for smaller parasites, like fleas (and other biting bugs). It doesn't kill them, it simply turns your pet's skin far less attractive to these bugs, and in that way deterring them from living on the animal.
Ledum (Marsh Tea) 12c to 30c in water. Remedy for puncture wounds, stings, animal bites, with amazing ability to heal tissues carefully from the deepest point and working up to the surface with specific action on hematoma (bleeding under the skin).
Staphysagria 6C with water Mixing several pellets of Staphysagria 6C with water and spraying around cracks, crevices, and furniture will kill adult fleas and prevent eggs from maturing. Repeat twice a month or more frequently to keep the house free of fleas during summer.
Eastern black walnut (Juglans nigra) powder / capsules Eastern black walnut works against fleas, ticks and sand flies. It also anti-parasitic properties; commonly used to cure tapeworms and ringworms. It is poisonous to horses, so consult your vet before giving it to animals.
Bay leaves (crushed or ground) Rub crushed or ground bay leaves all over dog's hair. You'll have to repeat this process every time before going out.
Rosemary infusion Add two cups of fresh rosemary leaves (needles) into 33oz (1 liter) of boiling water. Let it sit for 30 minutes, while it cools down. Sprinkle this infusion all over your dog's fur, rubbing it in and allowing it dry naturally.
Lemon, salt and vinegar spray Boil several lemons in water with a few tea spoons of salt. Once cooled, add one table spoon of apple cider vinegar. Spray it onto your pet's coat and leave it to dry naturally.
Apple cider vinegar, salt and baking soda spray 8oz (240 ml) ACV 4oz (120 ml) warm water 0.5 tbs salt 0.5 tbs baking soda Spray it onto your pet's coat and leave it to dry naturally.
Neem oil this is another strong natural repellent. There are a couple products here that are good, they make shampoo and spray.
Rub-a-Dub Tub Remember the old cartoons where dogs would jump into water to relieve themselves of fleas? Water really does work. Since fleas do not grasp and hold onto the hair shafts, they fall off in the water and drown. A good dip in a tub of water will wash away most, if not all, of the fleas on your pet. Using a gentle pet shampoo or a little bit of regular dish liquid, along with a thorough brushing (an outdoor brushing is best), will go a long way toward ridding your pet's body of fleas.
Flea vs. Predator In the yard, you might consider adding a natural predator of fleas. Nematodes are small worms that feed off of flea larva, and are easy to find at garden stores or pet shops. They are highly effective, with a noticable improvement in flea popualation within two days. Keep in mind that the type of nematode that is being recommended here is termed a "beneficial" nematode. It is not the type that is known for infecting animals, such as the heartworm.
Lady bugs can also be found at your local gardening shop, and are also very effective. Lady bugs feast on soft bodied bugs like fleas, and a mature lady bug can eat an average of 50 insects a day. Finally, fire ants are known to eat flea larvae, so if you have them in your yard, you may want to practice some controlled fire ant management that limits them to some areas of the yard rather than complete eradification of them.
Blades of Fury Ticks hang out in tall grass and use the opportunity to grab on to passersby when they feel body warmth - which they are very good at doing. If you are going to be spending time in wooded or grassy areas with your dog, you might want to fashion some cover-up clothing for your dog in order to avoid ticks. An old t-shirt can be altered to fit your dog's body, and old socks can be cut to make "leg warmers." This may not entirely prevent ticks from making their way onto your dog, but it may work to keep most of them off since they have nothing to latch onto, and will slow the rest down so they do not spend as much time on your dog's skin (the longer ticks stay on the skin, the more likely they are to transmit disease).
Borate This fine powder appears to interrupt the life cycle of fleas when professionally applied to carpets, upholstery and floor cracks. Poisonous to fleas, borate can remain effective up to one year, unless you have your carpets cleaned. Boric acid, however, can be toxic to infants if eaten. You can get borate from pest-control companies and via the Internet.
Coconut Oil All you need, to scare the ticks and fleas away, is coconut oil! I was more than surprised that this insect repellent still seems to be a secret among dog guardians. After all, maybe not that surprising, because the pharma industry is earning millions with their medication and wouldn't like the fact that there might be a much cheaper and natural insect repellent. In fact, coconut oil is not only cheap and natural, it also has a neutral scent and is healthy for the dog and its fur.
Essential Oils Because ticks carry dangerous bacteria, repelling them is a priority. One of the natural repellents that a lot of people have success with is rose geranium oil, which can be applied to your dog's collar. Do NOT use rose geranium oil on your cat, though. Cats can have a bad reaction to essential oils, primarily because they spend a lot of time grooming, which means that anything on their skin goes into their mouth. With ticks, the best thing you might do is to check your pet a few times a day when you are in an area that has ticks, and remove them promptly. Proper technique is important for removing ticks, so make sure that you consult a veterinarian before doing it yourself if you are not completely sure of how to do it.
These are some of the most frequently used essential oils to treat pests: Lemongrass Lemon Citronella Tea tree Eucalyptus Rosemary Bay Thyme Witch hazel Clove Cinnamon Linalool Rue Neem Juniper Cedar Geranium Bergamot Lavender Sweet almond oil Pennyroyal
As mentioned in one of the sections above, pennyroyal essential oil should be avoided. If ingested, it can cause seizures, coma and even death in animals. Preferably, use dry pennyroyal which can be placed around the house in safe places. Furthermore, not all essential oils are safe for animals. Oils such as citrus, cinnamon, clove, d-limonene, geranium, tea tree, lavender, linalool, bay, eucalyptus and rue oils should be used sparingly because they reportedly can cause allergic reactions in cats and dogs.
Some of the safest oils for pets: Cedarwood Lemongrass Peppermint Rosemary Thyme
Salt and baking soda Remove all furniture prior to sprinkling salt and baking soda heavily on your carpets. Once you applied both products, take a broom a sweep them from left to right so that they penetrate the carpet fibers. Leave it on for at least 12h, or up to a week, depending how severe your flea infestation is. Vacuum afterwards, but make sure to throw away the vacuum bag or to clean water vacuum cleaners well. Both salt and baking soda dehydrate the fleas, so they literally die out of thirst, or they're just too thirsty to reproduce. Repeat the process during several days as fleas can hatch every 3 days in "optimal" conditions. Note, if you live in humid climates or it's raining outside, the salt will absorb air moisture, so make sure to vacuum within 3-5h, instead of leaving overnight. If you decide that your weapon of choice is only salt, you can use a squirt bottle filled with lukewarm water to dampen the carpet. Sprinkle salt heavily afterwards, and leave overnight. Vacuum in the morning.
Happy gardens If you have a backyard or garden, keep the grass and shrubbery clipped. In areas where your pet likes to spend time, you may want to refrain from excessive watering. Sun, heat and dryness can reduce flea numbers, as they prefer warm and moist environments.
Plants that act as natural pest repellents The best way to treat pests and insects in your garden is to do it naturally by planting herbs and shrubs which act as natural repellents. Consult the list of essential oils for options, adjusting for climate, soil type and sun exposure in your garden and backyard. Once the plant is grown, you'll be able to rub the animal's fur with freshly cut leaves, hence reducing your expenditure in essential oils.
Dehumidifiers, air-conditioning, vacuuming All of these interrupt the flea life cycle. Fleas like humidity of at least 70%-75% to hatch, and larvae need at least 50% humidity to survive, they also need temperatures at 70° to 90°F / 21° to 32°C to survive. Lower temperatures slow down or completely interrupt the flea lifecycle. According to Wikipedia, laboratory study done at the University of California showed that vacuuming catches about 96% of adult fleas. A combination of controlled humidity, temperature, and vacuuming should eliminate fleas from an environment. Altering even one of these environmental factors may be enough to drastically lower and eliminate an infestation.
Nematodes or Roundworms These itty-bitty yard and garden allies feast on baby and teen-age fleas nestling in the soil around your home. Like fleas, nematodes like to live in warm, moist, shady spots. They must be reapplied monthly because they can't survive temperatures below 45 degrees or above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. You can buy nematodes at nurseries and garden centers.
The insect-parasitic nematodes are safe, as they are not the type that attack people, pets, or plants. They are a natural way of controlling fleas, as they act by feeding on flea larvae. They can be purchased at some pet and garden stores, and should be placed in moist, shady spots outside the house. Initially, introduce only a small number, as nematodes have a very high reproduction cycle. Research shoes that they are most effective against fleas in moist, sandy soil, and they won't survive on dry, sun exposed soils, but then again, neither do fleas.
Shampoos and Dips A shampoo, or "flea bath" is a good first attack on fleas for the pet that has large numbers of fleas visible on its body. Cats can be difficult to bathe. It is important to know how to properly use the medicated shampoo to effectively rid your pet of fleas. It is also important to realize that a flea shampoo is not intended for lasting control. Many people are surprised when they see fleas and it was "only a week ago" that the pet had a flea bath. Shampoos are only effective for a day or less. They leave little residual chemical on the animal when properly used.
Flea dips are strong chemical rinses to rid animals not only of fleas, but mites and ticks as well. I do not recommend dips unless absolutely necessary, as in the case of a mite infestation. Dips last approximately 1-2 weeks. That is a lot of chemical residue to leave on an animal! Flea shampoos and dips are effective for adult fleas.
Flea Collars Flea collars work one of two ways - by emitting a toxic to fleas, anyway... gas, and by being absorbed into the animal's subcutaneous fat layer. The toxic gas is usually only effective in the immediate area of the head and neck. This type of collar is best used in the vacuum cleaner bags to kill any fleas vacuumed up. The collars that absorb into the subcutaneous fat are much more effective. Ask your vet what collars they carry. Collars are not for all pets - particularly cats that roam outside. Flea collars are effective for adult fleas. Some collars have an IGR, or Insect Growth Regulator, to prevent flea egg and flea larval development as well.
Anti-Flea Powders and Sprays Flea powders and sprays offer short term (2-3 day) protection from fleas, and with some products, ticks and mites too. Powders and sprays have fallen out of favor recently with the newer spot-on treatments that are available. Most flea powders and sprays are only effective for adult fleas, some offer additional flea protection by inhibiting flea egg and larval development contain an IGR.
Spot-on Treatments Common brand names include: Advantagetm, Frontline, and Bio-Spot just to name a few. These products are applied between the shoulder blades of the pet, and typically last about one month. Spot-on treatments are effective for adult fleas. Some include ingredients to inhibit the larva from emerging from the flea egg and some are active against larval development as well. Click on the product names above to learn more about each individual product from the manufacturer's web site.
Oral Medications Flea "pills", such as Program and Sentinel work by stopping the larva from emerging from the flea egg. Program is also available as an injectable medication for cats. Fleas ingest the blood of animals on these medications, and the female fleas then lay eggs that are unable to hatch. They do NOT kill adult fleas. These medications are essential to break the flea life cycle and stop the flea problem when used in conjunction with flea adulticide treatments.
Other Tick & Flea Prevention Methods Most natural flea and tick prevention methods, such as garlic and brewer's yeast, have proven ineffective, advises WebMD. Diatomacious earth can control flea larvae, but contains microscopic silicone that can be hazardous if inhaled. Control flea and tick populations in your yard by keeping tall grasses trimmed and cleaning up leaves and other litter. Consider spraying an insecticide for fleas and ticks along the fence line and under shrubs, but be sure to allow time for the product to dry before letting your dog out in the yard.
Anti-Flea Pills for Dogs Flea pills for dogs typically guarantee the most success in fighting off parasites, but there are a few points to consider when choosing this treatment. Some orally administered drugs will require a prescription from your vet, and can come with side effects. And oral pills typically target either flea eggs or adult fleas, but not both, so you may have to pick up several drugs to eradicate the infestation. Currently, there are no oral medications that destroy ticks. Flea pills are the fastest way to eliminate these pests, with some treatments killing off infestations within four hours. If your dog doesn't like swallowing capsules, look for oral medications available in chewable tablets.
Capstar Flea Killer Kills off flea infestations within 6 hours, Administered daily, effective for 24 hours, Minimum pet age: 4 weeks, Ingredients include: Nitenpyram, Sold over the counter
Comfortis Chewable, beef-flavored tablets, Kills fleas and flea eggs, Begins working within 30 minutes, Administered monthly, prevents fleas for up to 30 days, Minimum pet age: 14 weeks, Ingredients include: Spinosad, Prescription required.
What is the difference between Advocate and Revolution? Advocate is a multi-purpose medication that combines Imidacloprid - the active ingredient in Advantage with Moxidectin. It treats fleas, as well as prevents heartworm, hookworm and roundworm in dogs and cats, plus whipworm in dogs. It also controls other external parasites such as lice and ear mites in cats, and mange mites and lice in dogs. Application is monthly to the skin at the back of the neck. Advocate does not treat ticks or tapeworm. It is recommended to worm with a tapewormer tablet once every 3 months.
Revolution - also has a multiple action. It is an easy to use and effective control for fleas. The main advantage of Revolution is that it also treats heartworm as well as ear mites and intestinal worms in cats and ear mites and sarcoptic mange mites in dogs. It is a very good treatment for cats that do not like taking tablets. Like Advocate, Revolution is eliminates the need to use separate flea and heartworm preparations each month. In dogs it is recommended that you still give an all wormer once every 3 months which treats all of the gastro-intestinal worms, such as the Drontal tablets.
What is the difference between Advantage and Advantix? Advantage and Advantix are made by the same manufacturer - Bayer. They both contain an ingredient called imidacloprid, which kills adult fleas, as well as flea larvae on cats and dogs for up to a month after application. They both also have a claim to kill lice for up to 6 weeks in dogs. As both products contain the same ingredient for flea control they have a similar activity against fleas. Advantage and Advantix both kill 98-100% of fleas on a dog within 12 hours.
The difference between Advantix and Advantage is that Advantix also contains permethrin, an ingredient which repels and kills ticks, mosquitoes and sand flies for up to a month. Advantix is registered for the treatment and control of bush ticks, brown dog ticks and paralysis ticks. To control paralysis ticks Advantix should be applied every 2 weeks. Permethrin is highly toxic to cats, so Advantix is only for use in dogs.If you have dogs and live in an area where ticks are a problem, Advantix would be the better product to use. In households where dogs and cats socialize closely it is recommended that you don't use Advantix due to the serious harmful effects that this product has on cats and Advantage is preferred.
What is the difference between Revolution and Frontline Plus? Revolution is a topical 'spot-on' parasiticide used in the treatment and prevention of fleas, heartworm and ear mites in dogs and cats.
Frontline Plus is also a topical 'spot-on' type application and is used for the treatment and prevention of fleas, ticks and lice on dogs and cats, however the main difference is that Frontline Plus has no effect against heartworm.
Heartworm is a serious disease spread by infected mosquitoes. Heartworm infection is widely distributed throughout the mainland states of Australia. Treatment is very involved, complex and expensive, therefore prevention is preferable to the cure. When using Frontline Plus pet owners are also advised to use a heartworm preventative.
Both Revolution and Frontline Plus have a rapid onset of action for fleas. Both Revolution and Frontline Plus kill the egg stage as well as the adult stage of the flea lifecycle. Revolution is not registered for the control of ticks in Australia while Frontline Plus is registered for the control of the brown dog tick as well as paralysis ticks. To control paralysis ticks Frontline Plus should be applied every 2 weeks.
Revolution contains the active ingredient selamectin while Frontline Plus contains fipronil and S-methoprene.
Revolution is easy to use and effective against fleas and heartworm, as well as having added benefits such as ear mite control and intestinal worm control in cats. However if you live in an area where ticks are a problem you want to consider using Frontline Plus along with a separate heartwormer such as Heartgard Plus or one of the generic heartwormers such as Nuheart.
erein lies the rub, or the scratch, as the case may be. If a dog or cat is scratching, it may not be fleas or any external parasite. Most animals that actually carry an infestation of fleas or one or two, are NOT that itchy. This is because the itchy ones are often demonstrating a flea ALLERGY, a reaction to the flea bite/saliva.
MYTH: Ear Mites vs. Yeast Infections Lastly, people often mention they are concerned about their dog' "ear mites." In many well-homed, indoor dogs and cats, mites are a very low probability. Usually, the dark waxy material that has an odor, is a yeast infection, with its roots in food allergies. In fact, one of the cardinal signs or "flags" of a food allergy is excess ear wax/yeast, odor, and itching. Your veterinarian can easily distinguish yeast infection from mites. In addition, cat ear mites - the more common case - do not transmit to dogs. Unless you place your cat's ear wax into your ears, they won't be interested in your ears! In the case your cat really does have mites, there are simple topical products that result in a quick resolution. As summer progresses into the cooler months, remember that California fleas are like California people - they are here for the weather, all year long! In late fall winter, you can reduce flea control measures or increase application intervals to every other month, but stopping flea control completely is unlikely. Consider trying one of the natural remedies mentioned above if you'd like to experiment. It may be the perfect answer.
MYTH: Cats Can Cause Flea Problems for Your Dog The other culprit that can be a "stealth" source for fleas on dogs is your CAT. Not only do cats tend to act as flea "buses" bringing the "outdoors in", but the fleas we find on dogs are frequently CAT flea species. Unfortunately, they find dogs just as tasty. Speaking of cats, what if you have indoor-only cats? Do you have to be concerned about fleas? Well, it depends, if you have hard surface floors and minimal material upholstery or area rugs, then it is highly unlikely your cat will have flea problems. If on the other hand, you move into a carpeted home WITH your cat, there may be eggs or larvae in the carpets waiting for a better deal. Enter: your cat. In this case, it is wise to use a topical or oral product for at least six months on the carpet. Consider using a safe product such as diatomaceous earth or boric acid powder. Sprinkle it into the carpet and vacuum it up, to desiccate remaining pests.
MYTH: Fleas and ticks are only a problem during warm weather If weather alone were enough to keep insects from thriving, we wouldn't have fleas and ticks at all! In inclimate weather, these pests find places to hide - and survive - until it's nice out again.
MYTH: Fleas and ticks are only problems for pets There are actually plenty of diseases your family can catch from fleas or ticks in your environment, including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.
MYTH: A healthy pet won't get fleas While not a guarantee, it is true that a healthy animal is a much less attractive host for fleas. That's one of many good reasons to feed a high quality diet of natural food. However, even a healthy pet can get fleas in heavily infested regions, so keep a watchful eye out and use a natural flea repellent on all at-risk pets.
MYTH: Fleas live on pets, not in the houses Fleas usually enter the house on pets, as stated above, but they can quickly find refuge in the house. Carpets, bedding, pet beds, and upholstered furniture make cozy homes for fleas, flea eggs, and flea larvae. If you find fleas in the house, you must take quick action to eliminate them there - as well as on your pet, and even in your yard.
MYTH: Keeping the house clean will prevent fleas Unfortunately, fleas can infest even the most spotless home. Fleas usually enter the house on your pets, but they can also hitch a ride on clothing, and have even been seen to jump right into the house on their own. Hard-surfaced floors are no protection, either - fleas can live in the cracks and around the edges of wood, laminate, or tile floors. They can also take refuge in furniture, bedding, and area rugs. If you live in an area with fleas, it is important to protect your pets at all times. It's also important to get rid of fleas in your yard. Creating a flea-free buffer all around the house a great way to prevent infestation.
MYTH: If I only see a couple of fleas on my pet, then it's not a big problem More than 90% of a flea population is in the egg, larval, or pupal cocoon stage, all of which take place off the pet, usually in carpet, bedding, or furniture, or shady areas in the yard where your pet or other critters hang out. If you see a few fleas, it's certain that there are hundreds of eggs and immature stages in the environment. The process of producing an adult flea can take weeks or even months. There's no quick fix, but vigilance and persistence can get rid of even stubborn infestations. If you see a few fleas, it's certain that there are hundreds of eggs and immature stages in the environment.
MYTH: Once the fleas are gone from my pet, the problem is solved Fleas do not surrender easily. If you have seen fleas on your pet or in house, you need to treat the house with a safe product, and stay vigilant for months. Fully solving the flea problem requires a 3-pronged approach of treating the pet, the house, and the yard. Use an outdoor treatment in shady areas under decks, bushes and trees, where fleas like to hang out. The best approach is prevention, so always protect your pets with a natural flea repellent, especially if they spend time outdoors, or at a dog park or doggie day care.
MYTH: I don't have to worry about fleas during winter Although you may not see them in the winter in cold climates, fleas can live quite comfortably in your house, as well as on wildlife. If your pet or your house had fleas during the warm months, you're likely to have fleas during the winter months as well. If your pet goes outdoors and may have contact with squirrels, birds, or other wildlife, they can still get fleas. And, of course, fleas live happily in warm climates all year long, so flea control is a year-round battle.
MYTH: My veterinarian can most effectively treat fleas It is fine to consult your veterinarian about flea control, but be wary of the chemical flea control products she may recommend. In addition, veterinarians may not know the best ways to get rid of fleas in the environment. We recommend trying to find a holistic veterinarian who can guide you on natural flea control products. One resource for finding a holistic veterinarian is the directory of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association. We recommend trying to find a holistic veterinarian who can guide you on natural flea control products.
MYTH: Chemical spot-on flea products are an easy and safe way to prevent fleas They are easy, yes, but they are not necessarily safe. The US Environmental Protection Agency recently (2010) completed an in-depth investigation due to the hundreds of reports of illness and death in pets. Serious adverse effects were reported for every product EPA assessed. EPA is in the process of increasing restrictions on their use. You can read more on the EPA website.
MYTH: Chemical flea collars are an easy and safe way to prevent fleas Flea collars are the least effective control method. Fleas spend most of their time off the animal. Their effects tend not to last very long. Conventional flea collars which use chemicals may contain potentially harmful residues that are transferred to dogs' fur and can be transferred to humans who handle them. The Natural Resource Defense Council is involved in a lawsuit in California to block the sale of these products, some of which contain cancer-causing agents and poisons that linger on fur for weeks. Children are most at risk for neurological damage. A great alternative is natural flea tags, which are effective for most pets and can work for up to two years.
MYTH: Natural flea control products don't work Although many natural flea control products don't have to go through EPA-mandated tests because they aren't classified as pesticides, this doesn't mean that they don't work. People all over the country use the natural approach to flea control effectively, and although it is not always as easy as using chemicals, you can rest assured that the products are safe for your pet and your family.
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What is a Tick? The tick is an Ectoparasite which is found in long grass and will attach itself to whatever brushes against it, this could be humans, hedgehogs, deer, cats and of course dogs. Ticks attach to the body for about 5-10 days and feed by sucking blood. They can cause a reaction at the attachment site, or anaemia if in large numbers. They can potentially transmit a number of serious infectious diseases. This is especially a problem in Southern Europe, but is becoming a more widespread problem as pets are allowed to move more freely throughout Europe. There are a number of products that are effective at killing ticks. In addition, some repel the ticks before they bite, and so may be preferable in areas where tick borne diseases are prevalent.
What does it Do? After the parasite has got on to your dog's skin it will burrow it's head under the skin and start sucking blood.
What can fleas do to my dog? Fleas are small parasitic insects that feed by sucking blood from your dog. During feeding, they inject a small amount of saliva into the skin and many dogs become sensitised or allergic, to this resulting in intense irritation. The severity of the irritation is related to the degree of hypersensitivity of your dog rather than the number of fleas on the body - so a very sensitive dog may suffer intense irritation even though you may not always see a flea! The dog's response to the intense itching is to chew, lick, or scratch. This causes hair loss and can lead to open sores or scabs on the skin, which may subsequently become secondarily infected with bacteria. The area most commonly involved is over the rump just in front of the tail, although all areas of the body can be affected. In long standing cases, the skin can become thickened and dark in colour. Large infestations of fleas may lead to anaemia, and fleas are also responsible for transmitting tapeworms to your pet.
What Does it Look Like? Look a the pictures on this page and you will have a pretty good idea, although colors can vary, they look like a brown wart, with very small black legs on either side.
What are the Dangers? There are a culmination of dangers that ticks can cause including.
1) If you try and fail when removing the ticks from dogs and it bursts, this can cause blood poisoning to your dog.
2) Lyme Disease.
3) Canine Ehrlichiosis passed from the brown tick.
4) Canine Anaplasmosis.
5) Rocky Mountain fever can effect humans and dogs.
How do fleas breed? The adult fleas live on the dog and can be seen moving quickly over the surface of the skin with the naked eye. They suck blood and their droppings are small dark and comma-shaped. The female flea lays eggs and these drop off into the environment, including carpets, bedding and upholstery, together with the droppings. The eggs hatch into larvae which then feed from the deposited droppings. Once mature, the larvae pupate and new adult fleas then emerge that can re-infest your dog. This whole life cycle can take as little as 14 - 21 days. Though your dog can become infested with fleas when contacting other infected animals, the greatest risk of infestation comes from newly emerged fleas in the environment.
How would I know if my dog has fleas? A dog that is sensitive allergic to flea bites will show typical signs of intense skin irritation with self-inflicted sores and hair loss, especially along the back by the tail head. The adult fleas are small but are visible to the naked eye and may be seen moving quickly over the skin. The characteristic comma-shaped droppings may be seen - if in doubt comb the dog's skin so these droppings fall onto a wet white surface and they will dissolve to give a red colour.Some people can become sensitised to flea bites, so if a family member suffers from the typical red sores, it is likely there are fleas present in the environment. Dogs that are not allergic to the flea saliva may carry fleas without scratching or showing the typical skin sores. These can be a source of infestation in a multi-pet household.
Can I stop using preventives in winter months, when all the fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes are dead? It depends on where you're located. In most of the United States, my answer today is "No" for various reasons. There are so many different tick species, and fleas can be a problem even late into the fall. If you get into some of the more northern states or into Canada, where they have very long, protracted winters, then it could be reasonable for several months. But even here in Eastern Kansas I don't recommend stopping. We've only got about 40-45 days a year when we don't see ticks.
Where the flea & ticks are hiding usually?
In the home Fleas love to get comfortable inside your home. First, their eggs fall from your untreated pet onto carpets, floors, and furniture. Then, they hatch into larvae that dig deep into crevices to escape the light. Soon you've got an indoor infestation.
Grass Fleas and ticks thrive in yards and parks where they can hide in the grass and shrubs. There, they wait for unsuspecting pets to pass by so they can latch on for a blood meal.
Sand Gravel and damp sandboxes make the perfect home for flea larvae to develop into adults.
Forest Ticks hang out in the underbrush of wooded areas as well as the tips of tall grasses and weeds.
Other animals Fleas can be found almost any place where pets or wild animals go—from dog parks to spaces under your home. Eggs that fall from other animals can soon cause problems for your pet.
Are Cat Fleas and Dog Fleas the Same? Cat fleas (Ctenocephalides felis) are a different species than dog fleas - Ctenocephalides canis. However, their differences are best distinguished through the use of a microscope. Despite their name, cat fleas are capable of affecting dogs and an array of other animals as well as humans. The majority of North American flea problems are cat flea infestations. If your pet is exhibiting symptoms of a flea problem, it is likely that they are hosting cat fleas. Dog fleas are most common in Europe, although in rare cases, they appear in North America, as well. Symptoms of flea infestation include excessive itching, red skin and secondary infections. In extreme cases, animals may develop flea allergy dermatitis. A veterinarian can help you decide upon flea remedies for your pet, but contact your local pest control expert to discuss science-based solutions and extermination options for your home.