The information contained in or provided through DOGICA® site is intended for general consumer understanding and education only and is not intended to be and is not a substitute for professional advice. Use of this site and any information contained on or provided through this site is at your own risk and any information contained on or provided through this site is provided on an "as is" basis without any representations or warranties or pay. DOGICA® Cookies Policy and Regulations
What do I do if I am attacked by a dog? Dog Bite Warning Signs Dog Bite Statistics Dog Bite First-Aid Top 25 Dogs with the Strongest Bite 12 Ways To Prevent Dog Bites 7 Steps to Take after Dog's Bite 14 Dog Breeds Blacklisted by Insurance Companies How to Socialize an Agressive Dog? Why Dog Dogs Bite? What Dog has the Strongest Jaws? How to Train a Dog & Puppy not to Bite How Dog Bite Infection being Treated? How Dangerous is a Dog Bite Dog Bite Infection Symptoms 6 Types of Dog Bites Ian Dunbar's Dog Bite Scale Dog Bite Attorney How to find Dog Bite Lawyer? Whom to Sue after Dog Bite Dog Bite Intensity Dangerous Dog Breeds List Dog Bite Inhibition Dog Bite Infection Risk Reasons of Dog Bite Dog Bites & Attacks: Preventing Infections & Treating Injuries Dog Muzzles Training Dog Bite Management Tips to Avoid Dog's Bite How to Train a Dog not to Bite? Types of Dog Aggression How to Stop Dog Leash Biting? What should you do if you get bit by a dog? Why Dogs Bite Children? What Should I Do If I am Bitten By A Dog? How much is Dog Bite Compensation? How Serious Dog Bite Wounds? One Bite Rule Mouthing, Nipping & Play Biting in Adult Dogs Dog Bite Attacks: Damages & Injuries Types of Dog Bite Injuries If a Dog Bites Someone, Will it Be Put Down? Dog Bite Attack Reasons What do I do if my dog bites someone? How to File a Dog Bite Injury Claim? What to Dog if Your Dog Bites You? What is Bite Force PSI? When should you go to the doctor for a dog bite? How do you know if a dog bite is serious? Do I Need a Vaccination after Dog Bite? Do I need a Tetanus Toxoid shot after a Dog Bite? Dog Bites & Agression Misconceptions
77% of dog bite victims are related to the dog owner or are a friend Over 50% of bites occur in the dog's home
If you are approached by a menacing dog:
Do not Attempt to Run
Stay Quiet, and Remember to Breathe
Be Still, with Arms at Sides or Folded over chest with hands in fists
Avoid Eye Contact!
In case of a dog bite, seek the assistance of medical, legal, and behavioral specialists!
If a dog finds himself in a stressful situation, he may bite you as a defense mechanism. Dog bites mostly happen when dogs feel scared, threatened, challenged or they see an immediate threat to their puppies, food or toys. Most often dogs bite people when they feel threatened in some way. It is a natural instinct that is still present in domesticated dogs, no matter how nice they are. That is why it's important for everyone who interacts with dogs to understand what may provoke this aggressive behavior.
Dogs may bite in defense of themselves, their territory, or a member of their pack. Mother dogs will fiercely protect their puppies as well
Startling a dog, such as waking one up or a child suddenly approaching from behind, can provoke a dog bite
Running away from a dog, even if it's during play, can provoke it to bite. They may think it's part of the fun at first, but even that can turn to aggression quickly
Dogs who are in a fearful situation may bite whoever approaches them. This may be something as severe as being abused or abandoned, or it may be something you perceive as ordinary, such as a loud noise
Injury and illness are a common reason as well. If a dog is not feeling well, they may not even want to be approached or touched by their favorite people.
1. One big reason is possessiveness. Dogs do not only bite when feel threatened, but they also bite when you interfere with something that they are possessive of. This includes their owner's house, their pups, their food and their toys. Dogs are among those animals who mark their territory by urinating - this shows their possessive nature. Hence the dog bites.
2. Sometimes it is not stress or anxiety, but fear. While a layman will not mostly differentiate stress from fear, there is actually a thin line between them. For example, dogs are afraid of strangers, if you are a not so friendly looking stranger and you come across a local dog, your chances to dog bite are highly likely. Likewise, children who shock the dog with sudden appearance or sneaking, can also suffer from dog bites.
3. Another important reason is pain induced anxiety. Even the friendliest dog can bite, and even a dog owner may face dog bite from his own dog, if the dog is going through some serious pain.
4. Also, if a female dog is going through or has been through pregnancy, she is unpredictable and you better respect her privacy. Pregnancy's pain and anxiety may make your female dog bite, and if she has become a mother, she may act overprotectively and in a way to stop you from touching her pups, she may bite.
5. Predator instincts - how could we possibly forget this reason? As friendly as your canine is, he is still a predator and his instructs may force him to bite you or others. Humans, while jogging or running in a park, must avoid crossing paths with a dog, for it may make a dog bite.
TYPES OF DOG AGGRESSION this information courtesy of ASPCA
Dominance Aggression In cases of dogs who bite due to dominance aggression, members of the dog's human family are most often the victims. Innocently attempt to move a dog off the bed to change the linens, push down on his rump to ensure compliance with a sit command, step over a dog who is resting inconveniently in the doorway and the dog erupts in a "you'd better not do that" vocal warning, followed by a bite. In each situation, the dog believes that he is in charge - that his humans have not earned the status to tell him what to do. Dominance aggression is most commonly, but not exclusively - seen in unneutered males and in confident breed types, such as rottweilers, chow chows, Lhasa apsos, English springer spaniels, Old English sheepdogs and Rhodesian ridgebacks, to name but a few. Obedience training as early as possible can abate a dog's tendency toward dominance aggression, but dogs who are naturally and intractably dominant aggressive must be closely monitored and kept clear of situations known to trigger the negative behavior. Management is underrated. There is nothing wrong with knowing the dog's limitations and living within those boundaries.
Protection of Valuables The protectiveness some people seek when acquiring a dog can prove to be a liability. Some dogs believe the only way to protect their valuables is through an act of aggression. A dog's list of valuables may include food, toys, territory - a house or a car, or even their human family members. Dogs have been known to "protect" one family member from another, driving crying children away from their mothers or chasing amorous husbands out of bedrooms. The protection of territory is most often seen in males of guarding/herding breeds, such as German shepherds and rottweilers, while certain cocker spaniels and Labrador retrievers, females more often than males - put on ferocious displays over toys and chewies resulting in punishing bites to hands and faces. Again, early training and lifelong management are the only solutions.
Fear Aggression The fear aggression response is most often directed toward strangers. Veterinarians learn early in their careers: when in doubt, muzzle. Like people, dogs are naturally fearful of unfamiliar and potentially threatening situations. A dog raised in a quiet adult household will be distraught by noisy, fast-moving youngsters. The dog may bark and lunge to drive them away and deliver a stinging nip to children who do not heed the warning. There is no particular breed or gender predilection for fear aggression, but these biters commonly lack early socialization to a wide variety of people and experiences. With a dedicated owner and a responsive dog, fear aggression can be greatly improved.
Maternal Aggression The first two to three weeks after a female dog gives birth, her puppies rely on her for all they need to survive: warmth, nutrition, stimulation to prompt elimination and protection. Even the most outgoing, well-trained dog may show signs of maternal aggression if she feels her newborns are at risk. No training is indicated here, rather an awareness of the new mother's innate need for a safe space. By limiting visitors to the whelping box to one to two adult family members during those first couple of weeks, the new mother will stay relaxed and focused on the job at hand. There will be plenty of time for socialization once the pups' eyes are open and they are toddling about under their own steam.
Redirected Aggression An attempt to break up a dog fight is the most common scenario for this category of biting. Two canine opponents are barking, posturing and biting at each other when all of a sudden hands reach in and grab at collars, tails and hind legs. The adrenaline-pumped dogs blindly whip around and land oral blows to body parts of the interrupters. Fights are best broken up by loud noises or strong blasts of water when available. However, sometimes that is not enough. If you must lay hands on fighting dogs, stay as far away from the mouth as possible and move swiftly and decisively.
Pain-induced Aggression While pain-sensitive breeds like Chihuahuas are common perpetrators, any dog may bite if hurting, depending on the degree of pain. An otherwise gentle dog will bite a beloved owner's hand trying to soothe, bandage or examine wounds. Like us, each dog has a unique pain threshold and tolerance. A sweet floppy-eared dog suffering from otitis externa may bite on getting his ears tousled, a dog with hip dysplasia may turn on a handler pressing down on his hips to enforce the sit command. Of course, any dog can be provoked to bite by overly zealous physical disciplining.
Pestered beyond Limits There are dog biting incidents that do not fit into the aforementioned categories. Perhaps a new category is required, called "Pestered Beyond Limits." Bites in this category are often prompted by children or adults, who simply do not understand that even a dog has limits. Hug a sleeping dog, blow puffs of air in his face, put a rubber banded knee-sox on his nose to turn him into an "elephant dog," ride him like a pony, stuff him inside a pillowcase just to see if he will fit, poke, prod, tickle him, and sooner or later, the dog will say "NO!" the only way he knows how through a bite.
There are three keys to bite prevention: learn to understand canine behavior, take the time to socialize and train all dogs, the younger the better and teach children to respect all dogs, starting with their furry buddies at home. With this accomplished, there is no telling how low bite statistics can go.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
TOP DANGEROUS DOG BREEDS: 14 DOG BREEDS BLACKLISTED BY INSURANCE COMPANIES This information is proudly presented by WWW.PSYCHOLOGY TODAY.COM and Stanley Coren
Dog bites are a major financial burden for the insurance industry. While you might love your dog, the companies that carry the insurance for your house, apartment, or condominium might not. In fact, your dog's breed might determine whether or not an insurance company is even willing to provide coverage for your home. The motivation for denying insurance to households with certain breeds of dogs is based on financial considerations.
In association with National Dog Bite Prevention Week a number of insurance companies have issued their lists of dog breeds that they consider dangerous and according to their rules can result in denial of coverage. The companies argue that the only way to reduce their financial risk is to ban certain dog breeds from coverage. Most of these blacklisted dogs not only the specific breed but any mixed breed that presumably included a genetic relationship to one of the banned breeds:
1. Pit Bull Terrier
2. Staffordshire Terrier
4. German Shepherd
5. Presa Canario
6. Chow Chow
7. Doberman Pinscher
11. Cane Corso
12. Great Dane
13. Alaskan Malamute
14. Siberian Husky
Nonetheless, remember that each company draws up its own list based on its opinion of the risk the dog breed presents. No specific scientific criteria are required for a dog breed to be blacklisted, and it is possible that simply one report in the media might be enough to cause an official in an insurance company to decide that one or another dog breed is dangerous. That situation is bound to lead to some odd choices as to which breeds are uninsurable.
Dogs are the most common pets and have been in contact with humans for years. In such a close relationship, accidents are bound to happen. Your dog can accidently bite or scratch you. This may seem harmless but could in fact be life-threatening.
A dog's saliva contains a lot of harmful bacteria. This puts the bite wound at high risk of infection. In a lot of cases, the infected wound is often severe and may require hospitalization. Apart from a potentially severe infections, dog bites may also result in deadly diseases such as rabies and tetanus.
1. Why are Dog Bites So Dangerous? More than half of all dog bites introduce bacteria to the body. When a dog's teeth bites and compresses your tissue, its smaller teeth tear into your skin leaving an open jagged wound. This wound may get infected and the infection may end up becoming severe. You will need antibiotics or hospitalization to minimize the risks of infection. You should always seek medical attention as soon as possible. Taking no action increases the risk of infection. If you are immunocompromised or have diabetes, you will have a greater risk of infection. More so, feral and unvaccinated dogs are potential carriers of deadly diseases such as rabies and tetanus.
2. Can You Get Tetanus from a Dog Bite? Tetanus is a serious disease that can lay dormant in the human body for years before spreading regularly. Although getting tetanus from a dog bite is rare, it is not unheard of. It is important to seek medical treatment immediately after a dog attack. You should also try to find the dog's owner to ascertain if the dog's inoculations are up to date. Dirty dog bite wounds put you at higher risk of getting tetanus.
3. Do You Need a Tetanus Shot After a Dog Bite? In case of a dog bite that has broken the skin, most doctors will recommend a tetanus shot. The shot may be necessary especially if you have not had a tetanus shot within the past five years. Although transmission of tetanus from dogs is rare, tetanus is a dangerous disease with a high mortality rate. Administering the tetanus shot is a safety procedure that helps minimize the risk of a possible infection.
4. How Long After a Dog Bite Do You Need a Tetanus Shot? After cleaning up the dog bite wound, you will still need to seek medical attention immediately after being bitten. If the doctor recommends a tetanus shot, it is recommended that you get it within 48 hours of the bite. This allows the vaccine to be more effective.
5. Should I Get Rabies Vaccine After Dog Bite? You should see your doctor right away after a dog bite especially if you are not aware of the dog's inoculations. Postexposure vaccination can help treat the infection and limit the risk of getting rabies.
6. Can I Take Rabies Injection After 1 Day of Dog Bite? Luckily, even though rabies is a deadly disease, it is treatable. If you are bitten by a rabid dog, you should go for the injection as soon as possible. The rabies vaccine yields good results because the virus works slowly. For the vaccine to work properly, it is recommended that it be administered within 6 days of infection. However, the vaccine is still generally effective when administered up to 10 days after infection. If you are at a high risk of contracting rabies or you are a vet and work closely with dogs, you could routinely take preventive rabies vaccination as a pre-exposure precaution.
7. Can I Take Tetanus After 48 Hours? If you have gone for more than 5 years without getting a tetanus shot, you should get one within 48 hours. This is because most people show a decrease in tetanus immunity after 5 years since their last tetanus shot. If you get an injury, you should get a booster shot within 48 hours especially if your immunization is out of date. If you have high-risk injuries and they are not fully immunized, a tetanus antitoxin may be recommended. For people with high-risk injuries who are not fully immunized, tetanus antitoxin may also be recommended. If you do not receive proper treatment, the toxin's effect on respiratory muscles can interfere with breathing. If this happens, you may die of suffocation.
8. Can Dog Teeth Scratch Cause Rabies? Bites are the most common way through which rabies is transmitted. This, however, is not the only mode of transmission. Rabies can also be transmitted through contact with the saliva of an infected dog, licks, or scratches. A dog teeth scratch can therefore cause rabies. The virus is transmitted when the dog's saliva comes into contact with any open wound or mucus membranes such as the nose, eye, or mouth. Thus, you should seek medical attention if you suspect that the dog is rabid.
9. Do All Dog Bites Cause Rabies? Dogs are responsible for most of the human rabies cases. This, however, does not mean that all dogs cause rabies. The dog has to be infected with rabies first for it to be able to transmit the virus. Although not all dogs have rabies, all dog bites should be treated unless you are completely sure that the dog has received a rabies vaccination in the past year.
10. Early Signs of Dog Bite Infection When a dog bite pierces your skin, bacteria from the dog's mouth can be transferred into your body causing an infection. The infection can be around the bite area but in some cases, the infection may spread to other parts of your body. Some of the early signs and symptoms of a dog bite infection include redness and swelling around the wound, discharge from the wound, a warm sensation around the bite area, experiencing difficulty in moving the bit area, and experiencing pain that lasts for more than 24 hours. If the infection has spread to other parts of the body, you may experience fever and night sweats.
11. Rabies Symptoms in Humans After Dog Bite Rabies is a serious disease caused by a virus and is usually transmitted by a bite from an infected animal. The first symptoms of rabies can appear from a few days to several years after the dog bite. At first, you will experience an itching, prickling, or tingling around the bite area. You may also experience flu-like symptoms such as general fatigue, headache, nausea, and muscle aches. After a few days, you will start developing neurological symptoms. These include agitation, excessive movements, aggressiveness and irritability, muscle spasms, convulsions or seizures, hallucinations, confusion, paralysis, and sensitivity to bright lights. You’ll also produce a lot of saliva and develop a fear of choking which will result in you avoiding water.
12. Is a Dog Bite a Puncture Wound? There are several types of dog bites. Some bites are light and the teeth will barely get through your skin. Some bites, however, are serious and even deadly. The number of puncture wounds caused by a dog bite vary depending on the severity of the bite. You could get one to four shallow puncture wounds. You could also get one to four puncture wounds from a single bite where at least one puncture wound is deep. You could also get deep puncture wounds from multiple bites. In case of a puncture wound, you should seek appropriate medical care to eliminate the chances of getting long-term complications due to a dog bite.
13. How to Clean a Dog Bite Wound (First Aid Treatment) Managing a dog bite as soon as possible is important as it helps prevent possible bacterial infection from the bite. You should tend to the injury right away while assessing the wound to determine the severity of the bite. Minor dog bite wounds can be treated by washing the injury right away with soap and warm water. The area should be cleaned thoroughly. You should let the bite area under warm water to get rid of the bacteria. You should then apply antibiotic cream to the wound and then wrap it with a clean bandage. If the bite wound is deep and serious, you should try to stop the bleeding by firmly pressing a dry and clean cloth against the wound. You should then seek medical attention right away.
14. Do All Dog Bites Need Antibiotics? Antibiotics help to reduce the risk of infection due to dog bites. Antibiotic prophylaxis is usually recommended for moderate to severe dog bite wounds of the hands, feet, genital area, or face. Bites involving the bone, tendon, or joints leading to tissue damage are also treated with antibiotic prophylaxis. If you are bitten, you should always seek medical attention since in some cases, you may have to be hospitalized and get intravenous antibiotics.
15. How Long Does a Dog Bite Take to Heal? The time it takes for a dog bite to heal depends on the severity of the dog bite, how you take care of the wound, and if you have complications such as diabetes which may delay your healing process. Depending on your bite, it may take as little as a week or as long as several months. Taking good care of your bite will help speed up the healing process. Seeking medical attention will also minimize the risk of you developing complications later.
16. Can I Take Rabies Vaccine Without Dog Bite? You can take the rabies vaccine without dog bite. People who work in animal shelters, forest rangers, and veterinarians are usually vaccinated against rabies since they are constantly in contact with different dogs and could contract rabies from an infected animal. A booster or vaccination is given every two years to protect you against a possible bite from a rabid animal.
There are several possible reasons why a dog may bite a child:
The dog is protecting a possession, food or water dish or puppies
The dog is protecting a resting place
The dog is protecting its owner or the owner's property
The child has done something to provoke or frighten the dog - hugging the dog, moving into the dog's space, leaning or stepping over the dog, trying to take something from the dog
The dog is old and grumpy and having a bad day and has no patience for the actions of a child
The dog is injured or sick
The child has hurt or startled it by stepping on it, poking it or pulling its fur, tail or ears
The dog has not learned bite inhibition and bites hard by accident when the child offers food or a toy to the dog
The child and dog are engaging in rough play and the dog gets overly excited
The dog views the child as a prey item because the child is running and/or screaming near the dog or riding a bicycle or otherwise moving past the dog
The dog is of a herding breed and nips while trying to "herd" the children.
How do dogs warn us? There are always warning signs before a bite occurs, but these can be very subtle and may be missed by many people. A dog may appear to tolerate being repeatedly annoyed by a child and one day bites, surprising everyone.
Sometimes the warning have gone on for months or even years before the dog finally loses its tolerance and bites. Signs that you should take very seriously that indicate that the dog is saying "I have been very patient with this child, but I am nearing the end of my patience", include:
The dog gets up and moves away from the child
The dog turns his head away from the child
The dog looks at you with a pleading expression
You can see the "whites" of the dogs eyes, in a half moon shape
The dog yawns while the child approaches or is interacting with him
The dog licks his chops while the child approaches or is interacting with him
The dog suddenly starts scratching, biting or licking himself
The dog does a big "wet dog shake" after the child stops touching him
Stress to children that they should only pet happy dogs.
You may think that your dog loves to have the children climbing all over him and hugging him, but if you see any of these signs, then you are being warned that a bite could occur if the dog feels he has no other way of defending himself. Do your dog and your child a favor and intervene if you notice any of these signs.
Know when a dog can attack. Preventing dog bites lies in your understanding of the dog's behavior. The obvious signs of a dog that might attack you include raised fur, snapping, growling, or a rigid body posture. You should also avoid approaching an anxious dog. Anxiety is represented by behavior like covering, lip licking, turned head to avoid eye contact, tucked tail between the legs, or repeated yawning. An anxious dog will also show its eyes' whites. And, do not forget that a dog wagging its tail is not necessarily friendly - it could be anxious and ready to attack.
1. Keep a distance between you and the dog when walking close to a leashed dog, do not let the size of the dog fool you.
2. If the dog is on a very long leash and a walk with the owner, alert them so that they can control and prevent the dog from biting.
3. Ask the owner's permission if you'd like to approach the dog, whether the dog is out in the yard or on a leash.
4. If a dog approaches you aggressively turn to the side, you won't appear threatening anymore.
5. Place an object between you and the dog.
6. Do not run, be still, withdraw slowly, and move away at constantly slow pace when you are threatened.
7. Do not approach a barking dog. Also, do not approach if it's snarling, sleeping, eating, growling, and not when she's nursing her precious pups.
8. If you spot an unleashed dog a block ahead from you, be careful about approaching it. It is safe to change your route or turn around to avoid a confrontation or an attack.
9. Do not stare at a dog in the eyes. Aggressive dogs stare at each other, and that dog ahead of you might attack because it thinks you are threatening to attack.
10. Speak to the dog softly to calm it down.
11. Wondering if you should approach that dog or not? Look out for a color-coded warning, probably on the dog's collar or leash. Signals to watch out for include "No Dogs", "Nervous Dog", "Blind", "Deaf", "Do Not Feed" or "Caution".
11. What do I do if I'm approached by a strange dog? - If you are approached by a dog you do not know, do not run away or panic. Stay perfectly still and do not move or make any loud noises. Avoid making direct eye contact with the dog as direct eye contact is seen as challenging body language. Do not stand directly facing the dog. Instead, turn and stand with the side of your body facing them. Slowly and carefully cover your neck with your hands and keep your elbows tucked in. Slowly back away or wait for the dog to walk away. If you are ever knocked over by a dog, protect yourself by curling into a ball with your head tucked and your hands covering your neck and ears. Do not attempt to kick, hit, or fight the dog off.
What do I do if I'm attacked by a dog? Put a jacket or bag between you and the dog if you have one to protect yourself. In case you are attacked, curl up into a ball to protect your head, face, and neck.
Understanding the reasons for your dog's aggressive personality is the foundation of working towards an effective solution. There is no such thing as a "bad dog" and if anything, the way your dog exhibits his behavior is much more matter of fact than humans! That being said, there is still a variety of reasons why dogs can become volatile. The tension between two or more dogs is pretty usual.
Dog on dog aggression is a typical behavior problem that pet owners and trainers deal with. The reason is that during their growth, dogs are deprived of socialization with other dogs. As a result, many fluffy pets grow up with no social skills and are not able to read other dogs' signals. Socializing an aggressive dog is not easy. But as long as you follow our tips, you will be able to see a significant difference in your dog's behavior. Never assume that aggression is developed in the early years. It is actually much more likely that dogs who experience periods of extreme stress at any stage of their life can suddenly change their character for the worse.
Dogs that may not be physically harmed, but instead just ignored, are at great risk of becoming antisocial. From their perspective, they may have simply given up on groveling or whining for attention. So instead, what they do is focus on behaving badly because they know it is the only way that they will get attention.Living with an aggressive dog is not easy. You might feel stressed, scared, or embarrassed by your dog's behavior. You are not alone in wanting to understand why your dog is acting aggressively.
Aggression does not always come from a lack of socialization, but undersocialized dogs are at increased risk of aggression. Other factors that may contribute to making a dog aggressive include: Breed, Genetics and Adverse Life Experience. Adverse life experiences may include being abused, but keep in mind that most shelter dogs are undersocialized, not abused. Any combination of these three factors, plus poor socialization, can create an aggressive dog.
Introduce your Dog
Going regularly to the dog park will make sure your puppy meets other dogs. This is the perfect opportunity to practice proper behavior. Daily dog walks will calm your furry friend.
Shouting Does Not Help Shouting at your dog will naturally invoke a stress reaction. This can result in two very contrary reactions. Firstly, some dogs will become so stressed out by this that they will bark even more at both yourself and other dogs or people. Others may learn that displaying their unease leads to a verbal scolding, so will instead adopt appear calm even when their stress levels are at an all-time high. In the worst case scenario, your dog can become prone to suddenly attacking other dogs seemingly out of the blue.
Do Not be Harsh! Disciplining your fluffy friend for being aggressive is essential. However, you should not be frightening. Try to remain calm in any situation where your dog shows aggression.
Take The Lead
When Introducing Dogs Ultimately the key is for you to feel comfortable that your dog is going to be relaxed around others. Many owners become extremely frustrated that no matter how much they try, the mere sight of a distant dog is going to send their pet into a barking fit. So a tried and tested technique is for you to take the lead. Owners come up with all kinds of names for this so for this example we will opt for "cheery times!". The moment another dog is sighted, make sure you become especially chirpy and playful with your dog. Offer treats, adopt a cheery voice and scrub or pat their favorite spots. When the dog sees that you are totally chilled out and happy about the other dog's presence. He will in time, adopt a similar attitude.
Dog's Triggers Is it other dogs? Men with beards? Loud children? If you know what sets your pup off, it can shed some light on the training or socialization department. It is also important to recognize how aggressive they become when one of these triggers sets them off.
Train your dog
with a muzzle You may feel that muzzling your dog is cruel, but the reality is that aggressive dogs bite and owners are not safe in this case.
The Passer-By One variety of this technique is "the passer-by". It involves tying your dog securely to a post - this may not be suitable if the dog is not used to it and standing beside. A training partner and their dog should be waiting out of sight around a corner. About 30 yards or so ought to be fine. After a couple of minutes time them to emerge slowly and immediately start "cheery times!" with your dog and giving them treats. The other pair should keep their distance and just pass out of sight. Over time, gradually bring them closer together until eventually, the other dog will be able to pass right by without raising a reaction. It can take months to reach this stage but proximity training is an essential component to calming any dogs aggressive tendencies.
Change Your Behavior If you have not done it already, it is vital to change your behavior. Dogs see their owners as families, which is why they become so protective. If your dog senses you are nervous or scared, it will imitate your behavior and will take your anxiety as a sign that a threat is coming. When you see your dog act happy and apprehensively, give your dog a sense of support and confidence.
Have a Routine All dog owners should have a walking routine. A routine will calm your dog and help him socialize more easily. Take your furry friend to growl classes Little assistance while learning how to socialize an aggressive dog is proven to be very useful. Find classes that can teach your fluffy friend how to interact with others of its kind.
Support Social Activities Introducing your dog to new activities will help a lot in teaching him to be calm. Do not rush into anything; take it one step at a time. One social activity each week is enough to notice positive changes. This will help your dog to see the experience he could be having and show him how a proper behavior looks like.
Get Professional Help Sometimes, your attempt to fix your dog behavior will fail. If you do not know what to do next, getting professional advice could be the solution you need. It is recommendable to consult with a professional, primarily if your furry friend used to be calm before. No owner should like having to take their dog to Aggression Training, yet there is a good deal of evidence that specialist training groups can work wonders for aggressive dogs. The idea behind this is to provide your dog with a more immersive experience where he can interact with a large number of other dogs on a regular basis. It can be stressful at first. But over time, your dog will become more familiar with others around him. Just be careful to make sure your dog does not become overwhelmed by the whole experience. And if he does start acting up, take him away for a break and let him calm down. Your dog will come to understand that other dogs need not pose any threat. But once again it is impossible to set any general timeline on how long that may take.
There are 4 stages to this which need to be planned out in advance and religiously stuck to. Treats are only ever awarded when the dog exhibits good behavior:
Stage 1 - Allow a month for the dog to learn that treats are now a reward and not a privilege. They are never to be given for the sake of it - only when it is demonstrating consistently good behavior. Some trainers refer to this stage as shaping.
Stage 2 - The next stage is to try and desensitize the stress that the dog experiences when close to others. Usually, this is done by standing a good distance away from another - on the leash of course, and rewarding with treats for every yard or so that they get closer without demonstrating aggressive tendencies. Depending on your dog, this can take days or months of practice. But the objective is for them to become not just used to the other dog, but to associate this as a form of good behavior that you will reward.
Stage 3 - When you are at the stage where you can essentially walk up very close to another dog using only a couple of treats, it is time to attempt counter conditioning. Essentially this means pairing up in the company with a by now familiar other dog & owner and going for a walk. Keep a distance to begin with and take it easy, but make this a regular routine - ideally daily. Award treats only when your dogs are very close to each other, taking particular care the first few times you try it.
Stage 4 - Continue training your dog to obey other commands. Seeing as many aggressive dogs tend to also be generally disobedient, further training will help to reinforce that good behavior equals rewards. These may be verbal cues such as "sit" or more advanced instructions. But even dogs who learn the principles quickly will still likely be prone to the occasional outburst. So using non-physical behavior such as turning your back or stopping still during a walk. Trust me, it will get the message over in time. And remember, never lose your cool and resort to yanking the leash or shouting.
INCREASING YOUR SAFETY AND REDUCING THE RISK OF DOG's BITE This information is proudly presented by WWW.ASPCA.ORG
To reduce the number of injuries from dog bites, adults and children should be educated about bite prevention, and dog owners should practice responsible dog ownership. Understanding dog body language is a key way to help avoid being bitten. Know the signs that dogs give to indicate that they are feeling anxious, afraid, threatened or aggressive.
An aggressive dog may try to make himself look bigger. His ears may be up and forward, the fur on his back and tail may stand on end or puff out, and his tail may be straight up - it may even wag. He may have a stiff, straight-legged stance and be moving toward or staring directly at what he thinks is an approaching threat. He may also bare her teeth, growl, lunge or bark. Continued approach toward a dog showing this body language could result in a bite.
An anxious or scared dog may try to make herself look smaller. He may shrink to the ground in a crouch, lower his head, repeatedly lick his lips, put his tail between his legs, flatten his ears back and yawn. He may look away to avoid direct eye contact. He may stay very still or roll on his back and expose his stomach. Alternatively, he may try to turn away or slowly move away from what he thinks is an approaching threat. If he can not retreat, he may feel she has no other alternative but to defensively growl, snarl or even bite.
Many dogs can show a mixture of these body postures. Which indicating that they feel conflicted. Remember to avoid any dog showing any of signs of fear, aggression or anxiety - no matter what else the dog is doing. It is important to realize that a wagging tail or a crouching body does not always mean friendliness.
What is the "One Bite Rule" for dog bites? The so-called "one bite rule" for dog bites holds people liable for injuries caused by their pets if they knew or should have known of the dog's dangerous tendencies. The one bite rule is named after the most important piece of evidence in dog bite cases. If a dog has bitten someone in the past, it puts the owner on notice of the dog's dangerous tendencies. Once the owner is on notice, they will be held liable for subsequent bites. They should have foreseen them happening and taken precautions to avoid them. The one bite rule is different from a strict liability rule for dog bites because it requires proof that the owner did something wrong. Strict liability rules for dog bites hold the owner liable, even if they took every precaution necessary.
Dog bites are no laughing matter! Dog bite laws can vary greatly depending on the local jurisdiction. It is important that you research the laws in your area, so you know what to expect. The following conditions typically apply in dog bite cases:
You will need to show proof of your dog's rabies vaccination history
A quarantine period may be required. The period will likely be longer if the rabies vaccination is not current
Depending on the situation and your dog's history, it is possible for your dog to be designated a "dangerous dog."
You may have to comply with specific laws regarding the handling of your dog
Laws may require that your dog is euthanized if your dog is considered "dangerous," if the injury was very serious, or if a fatality occurred. Also, you could be held legally responsible and face criminal charges.
A Center for Disease Control study reports that every year there are more than 4 million reported dog bites in the United States alone. While many of these do not require professional medical attention, there are certainly cases that result in serious injury or illness if the dog passes along germs from the bite. Professionals often use Dr. Ian Dunbar's Dog Bite Scale to categorize bites into six different types with varying degrees of seriousness. For dog bite victims and their loved ones, it is important to know what category their bite falls into.
Level One When a dog snaps at the air in front of a human or another dog, that is a level one bite. This type of bite actually has no contact with the skin, but is rather a warning from the biting dog. A level one snap like this often occurs when a dog is put into a situation where it is frightened or cornered and wants the human or dog causing this distress to back away.
Level Two At a level two bite, a dog's teeth will make contact with a person's skin and leave some redness or light bruising but does not break the skin. These bites, like level one, are a way for a dog to warn that there might be a more serious reaction coming if their antagonizer does not back away and de-escalate the situation. While this sort of bite causes very limited physical injury with essentially zero chance of germ passage, they can still cause trauma and instill lifelong fear in victims, especially young children. 81% of all dog bites fall under the level one or two categories.
Level Three A level three bite is when things start to become more serious. In this type of bite, the dog's teeth break the victim's skin and leave bloody marks behind. There are two subcategories within level three to differentiate between single bites and multiple bites, but if these bites are shallower than the length of the dog's canine teeth, it falls into level three. These bites, while painful and traumatic, are not usually serious as far as physical injury goes. However, they can transmit germs and diseases. As a result, it is best to seek medical attention after any dog bite that breaks the skin to ensure there is no chance of illness or infection.
Level Four In level four, a dog bites much harder, clamping down and going past the length of the canines, causing serious wounds and severe bruising. Sometimes the dog will clamp down and shake their head, causing increased tears in the victim's skin. These bites are aggressive as the dog will be using most if not all of their strength. At this level, one of these bites could even kill a child.
Level Five Level five is simply an escalation of level four, with the victim suffering multiple bites of this extremely aggressive variety. This could easily put someone in the hospital and require extensive stitches or surgery. Dogs who bite like this are extremely dangerous and while any bites that break the skin should be reported to authorities, a level five should absolutely be documented as such a dog could very well attack again.
Level Six Dog bites can kill, and when this occurs it is considered a level six bite. These dogs are obviously extremely lethal and proper measures should be taken to ensure there are no other victims. While level six bites are frightening and serious, one can take a little comfort in knowing that over a thirteen-year period there were only 433 deaths attributed to dog bites. While this may seem like a large number, that is less than a tenth of one percent of all dog bites. According to the National Safety Council, a person's odds of dying from a dog bite are 1 in 112,400.
You are playing with your dog, and somehow, between growls and tail wags, it can happen. Those canine teeth can bite or scratch. Or alternatively, you could be walking down a street and an unknown mutt can attack without warning. Either way, there are steps you need to take right away to treat the wound and reduce the risk of infection. You will need professional medical attention the same day.
A dog's front teeth will grab and compress your tissue, and their smaller teeth can also tear your skin. The result is an open, jagged wound. If the wound becomes infected, it is often severe. Roughly 50% of dog bites introduce bacteria, including staphylococcus, streptococcus and pasteurella, as well as capnocytophaga. Unvaccinated and feral dogs can also potentially carry and transfer rabies, so your doctor will want to know details about the dog that bit you. If a dog bites you, take these steps right away:
1. Wash the wound. Use mild soap, and run warm tap water over it for five to 10 minutes
2. Slow the bleeding with a clean cloth.
3. Apply over the counter antibiotic cream if you have it
4. Wrap the wound in a sterile bandage
5. Keep the wound bandaged and see your doctor
6. Change the bandage several times a day once your doctor has examined the wound
7. Watch for signs of infection, including redness, swelling, increased pain and fever.
Knowing what to do after a dog bite can be critical to your health and any legal action you may need to take. Important first steps after a dog bite include the following:
Medical Care Especially for puncture wounds and more serious injuries, it is important to seek medical attention right away. Some dogs are not vaccinated against rabies, and puncture wounds are prone to infection. If at all possible, take pictures of your wounds before they are treated in order to more accurately document the harm done.
Exchange Information Like the aftermath of a car accident, you should exchange information with the dog's owner or caretaker so you can easily contact them after the incident, in part to verify the dog's vaccination history. This information should include the person's name, address, and contact information.
Witnesses Whether you were bitten or your dog bit someone else, be sure to get contact information for anyone who witnessed the incident. If there is a need for a lawsuit or an insurance claim, eye witness accounts can provide a more accurate picture of what happened.
Animal Control Filing a report with your local animal control agency helps to prevent future dog bites, and their investigation into the incident may help your own case.
Documenting a Dog Bite In addition to the first steps outlined above, documentation is also a key component of what to do after a dog bite. First, document any injuries associate with the bite, including visible injuries and the effects of those injuries, such as pain, decreased mobility, and inability to perform certain functions. This documentation can be in the form of photos, journal entries, medical records, and other written records. Additionally, soon after the incident, write down the events and circumstances surrounding the bite with as much detail as you can remember.
Since you may be dealing with an insurance company or a lawsuit, it is a good idea to document any correspondence you have with others, including witnesses, other parties, and the insurance company itself. In addition, keep records of expenses you incur as a result of the dog bite, such as medical bills, lost wages, and travel costs. The more documentation you have regarding the incident, the easier it will be to assess the amount of compensation you deserve for your injuries.
How do I gather Evidence? When you are first attacked by the dog, it is important to seek medical attention. This will give you the treatment and medical attention you need to heal properly. Also, it will provide documentation for your injuries, which will cause proof of the injury. Information on the dog's history is needed as well. It would be best to seek this from the owner. This information should not only include their behavioral patterns, but also medical history, such as rabies shot history. For these cases, an attorney can be of assistance when gathering information about the dog.
How do I report Dog's Bite? Once you have seen a medical professional about your dog bite injuries, you can report your dog bite. Contact your local police department or animal control agency to report the incident if the dog was behaving strangely or if you do not know if the dog has been vaccinated for rabies. You can contact the dog owner if you knew the dog to ask about the dog's current rabies vaccination. You will need the owner's name, address, phone number, the name of the dog's veterinarian who gave the dog the rabies vaccine, and the rabies vaccine license number. Remember that any dog, even your own, can bite. It is important to protect yourself and read your dog's body language. By following the tips above, you can reduce your risk of getting bitten by suffering an injury.
Contacting a Dog Bite Attorney Because dog bites are such a common occurrence, there are attorneys with extensive experience handling dog bite insurance claims, settlements, and lawsuits. These attorneys are usually well-versed in arriving at an accurate amount of compensation a dog bite victim should receive. These amounts often involve detailed calculations for lost income and earning potential, pain and suffering, and other expenses. They also have experience assessing a client's likelihood for success based on their state's dog bite laws and the outcomes of similar cases they have seen. Lastly, a dog bite attorney can be instrumental in dealing with the other party's insurance company and negotiating a settlement. While the insurance company has plenty of experience getting people to accept low settlement offers, a dog bite attorney is very familiar with the tactics used by insurance companies and other lawyers, and knows the best arguments and evidence to use to obtain a fair settlement.
Explore Your Legal Options with a Lawyer Knowing what to do after a dog bite can help you obtain the care you need and the legal outcome you deserve. However, it can still be difficult to know the state laws that apply to your situation, the types of compensation you should receive, and the likelihood of achieving a fair settlement. To increase your chances of a successful personal injury lawsuit, it's best to consult with an experienced personal injury attorney in your area.
What to Do if Your Puppy Bites You? At a certain stage, puppies bite. It is what they do, first when they are teething, and then later as they try to establish dominance. The important thing to remember is that a puppy does not bite you because it hates you. It bites you because you are there, it feels something soft, and it has teeth. Sometimes, a puppy may even break the skin but, again, the important thing to remember is that this is just a stage of the puppy's growth. In order to deal with it, remember two things. The first is to remain calm. A nip from a puppy may hurt, but the less you react to it, the less importance your puppy will attach to it. Second, in order to break your puppy of this habit, you need to learn the signs of when she is about to nip, then correct her with a quick pinch on the scruff just before she decides to do it. This will redirect her from her instinct to bite, and eventually teach her not to do so. If you do get nipped, most likely it's a superficial scratch.
How to Stop Puppy Biting?
Teach your puppy bite inhibition Learning how to moderate the force of a bite is very important for all dogs. There may come a time when they are in pain or fearful, and they put their mouth on you or someone else. But if they have learned bite inhibition, they understand that they should not bite down hard. Puppies naturally nip at each other while playing. If they bite too hard on their mother or littermate, the other dog will likely make a loud yelp sound, warning the puppy, "Hey, that hurt!". Depending on the dog, you can teach this, as well, by making a high-pitched "ow!" sound if they bite you. Beware though, because, for some puppies, this actually gets them even more worked up and likely to bite. In this case, it is better to turn quietly around, walk away, or gently put the pup into their crate for a few minutes to calm down. If they do back off, be sure to reward your dog with a treat and some verbal praise.
Teach your puppy that biting means "game over" If your puppy bites you while playing, that means playtime is over, with no exceptions. Yelling at or physically punishing your puppy, as strange as it sounds, is also a type of reward. It teaches them that biting gets some kind of response from you, which is known as negative reinforcement. This can also make them fearful of being handled. Instead, teach them that biting will get them nothing. It's actually a calming signal and a minor form of attention withdrawal, and be careful not to roughhouse with your young pup in ways that only encourage them to lose control and bite you.
Give your puppy an alternative item to chew It's a good idea to keep a puppy chew toy at hand at all times, so you can anticipate biting behavior and substitute the toy for your hand or furniture. Doing so will let pups know what is OK to bite or chew. If they start nibbling at your fingers or toes while you are playing, offer a toy instead. Again, if they continue to nip, stop the play session immediately. If you have been training your puppy to sit, you might also redirect them by asking them to sit and rewarding with a toy.
Prevent the pounce If your puppy is pouncing on your legs or feet as you walk, a common playful puppy behavior - hold a high value treat next to your leg as you walk, to help the puppy learn to walk nicely alongside you. This same tactic is used when teaching a puppy to walk on a leash.
Put them in a timeout Gently put your puppy in their crate to give them a chance to calm down and prevent them from biting. It is very important to make sure that they do not learn to associate the crate with punishment, so be calm. Once the pup calms down, you can let them out.
Offer quiet time or a potty break Sometimes a biting puppy is really an over-tired puppy, and they need to be put in a quiet space or crate to take a nap. Other times, they may need a potty break, or may just be hungry or thirsty.
Help use up some energy When the puppy keeps biting, even after you substitute a toy several times, he may just need to burn up some physical or mental energy. Take them in the yard and watch them run around.
Reinforce behaviors you desire We sometimes forget that when our puppy is calm and quiet, we should reinforce that with a "good dog" or a piece of kibble or a pat. You will help them learn what behaviors you are looking for through positive reinforcement.
Never hit your dog! Never, ever hit or otherwise physically punish your dog. If your pet seems to be biting out of aggression, speak to a veterinarian or dog trainer about ways to manage that behavior.
What to Do if Your Dog Bites You? Follow the general procedures, and then look at the causes of the bite. If it happened during a dog fight, then it was most likely accidental, your dog was in an aggressive zone and you were in the wrong place, so it was nothing personal, and you probably do not have to worry about your dog suddenly biting you again. Do not discipline your dog long after the fact. He won't connect discipline now with what he did in the past, so it will just confuse her.
If he does remember biting you, he may show signs of submission afterwards - ears, tail, and head down. Practice no talk, no touch, and no eye contact for a while and remain calm. If your dog suddenly nips at you for no apparent reason, consult your veterinarian first. This may be a sign of pain or a hidden injury, which your vet can diagnose. If there are no obvious medical causes, then you have to look at what happened leading up to the bite. For example, did you suddenly sit too close to him on the couch, try to take away a favorite toy, or get too near the food bowl while he was eating? In those cases, you need to work with your dog to eliminate budding aggression by establishing rules, boundaries, and limitations, consulting with a professional trainer if necessary.
Most pet parents do not enjoy dogs who bite, chew and mouth their hands, limbs or clothing during play and interaction. The jaws of an adult dog can cause significantly more pain than puppy teeth, and adult dogs can inadvertently cause injury while mouthing. Mouthing is often more difficult to suppress in adult dogs because adults are not as sensitive to our reactions as puppies are, and they are usually more difficult to control physically because of their size. Adult dogs who mouth people probably never learned not to do so during puppyhood. It is likely that their human parents did not teach them how to be gentle or to chew toys instead.
Is It Playful Mouthing or Aggressive Behavior? Most mouthing is normal dog behavior. But some dogs bite out of fear or frustration, and this type of biting can indicate problems with aggression. It is sometimes difficult to tell the difference between normal play mouthing and mouthing that precedes aggressive behavior. In most cases, a playful dog will have a relaxed body and face.
His muzzle might look wrinkled, but you won't see a lot of tension in his facial muscles. Playful mouthing is usually less painful than more serious, aggressive biting. Most of the time, an aggressive dog's body will look stiff. He may wrinkle his muzzle and pull back his lips to expose his teeth. Serious, aggressive bites are usually quicker and more painful than those delivered during play. If you suspect that your dog's biting fits the description of aggressive behavior, please consult a qualified professional.
How to Minimize Your Dog's Mouthing & Nipping? Dogs spend a great deal of time playing, chewing and investigating objects. They also enjoy playing with people, of course. Puppies chew on our fingers and toes, and they investigate people's bodies with their mouths and teeth. This kind of behavior may seem cute when your dog is seven weeks old, but it's not so endearing when he is two or three years old and much bigger! It's important to help your dog learn to curb his mouthy behavior. There are various ways to teach this lesson, some better than others. The ultimate goal is to train your dog to stop mouthing and biting people altogether. However, the first and most important objective is to teach him that people have very sensitive skin, so he must be very gentle when using his mouth during play.
Bite Inhibition: Teach Your Dog to Be Gentle Bite inhibition refers to a dog's ability to control the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who has not learned bite inhibition with people does not recognize the sensitivity of human skin, so he bites too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers believe that a dog who has learned to use his mouth gently when interacting with people will be less likely to bite hard and break skin if he ever bites someone in a situation apart from play like when he's afraid or in pain. Young dogs usually learn bite inhibition during play with other dogs. If you watch a group of dogs playing, you will see plenty of chasing, pouncing and wrestling. Dogs also bite each other all over. Every now and then, a dog will bite his playmate too hard. The victim of the painful bite yelps and usually stops playing. The offender is often taken aback by the yelp and also stops playing for a moment.
When you play with your dog, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you are hurt, and let your hand go limp. This should startle your dog and cause him to stop mouthing you, at least momentarily. If yelping seems to have no effect, you can say "Too bad!" or "You blew it!" in a stern voice instead. Praise your dog for stopping or for licking you. Then resume play. If your dog bites you hard again, yelp again. Repeat these steps no more than three times within a 15-minute period.
If you find that yelping alone does not work, you can switch to a timeout procedure. Timeouts are often effective for curbing mouthy behavior in adolescent and adult dogs. When your dog delivers a hard bite, yelp loudly. Then, when he startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Either ignore him for 10 to 20 seconds or, if he starts mouthing on you again, get up and move away for 10 to 20 seconds. If necessary, leave the room.
After the short timeout, return to your dog and encourage him to play with you again. It's important to teach him that gentle play continues, but painful play stops. Play with your dog until he bites hard again. When he does, repeat the sequence above. When your dog is not delivering really hard bites anymore, you can tighten up your rules a little. Require your dog to be even gentler.
Yelp and stop play in response to moderately hard bites. Persist with this process of yelping and then ignoring your dog or giving him a timeout for his hardest bites. As those disappear, do the same for his next hardest bites, and so on, until your dog can play with your hands very gently, controlling the force of his mouthing so that you feel little or no pressure at all.
KEEP IN MIND: Avoid waving your fingers or toes in your dog's face or slapping the sides of his face to entice him to play. Doing these things can actually encourage your dog to bite your hands and feet. Do not discourage your dog from playing with you in general. Play builds a strong bond between a dog and his human family. You want to teach your dog to play gently rather than not at all. Avoid jerking your hands or feet away from your dog when he mouths. Jerky movements might seem like a game to your dog and encourage him to jump forward and grab at you. It is much more effective to let your hands or feet go limp so that they are not much fun to play with.
Slapping or hitting dogs for playful mouthing can cause them to bite harder. They usually react by playing more aggressively. Physical punishment can also make your dog afraid of you and it can even cause real aggression. Avoid scruff shaking, whacking your dog on the nose, sticking your fingers down his throat and all other punishments that might hurt or scare him.
Does your puppy bite? If so, you will need to quickly break this cycle without breaking your puppy's spirit. The good news is that there are lots of things you can do to signal that biting needs to stop, all while reinforcing positive behavior in your puppy. Once you train your puppy not to bite, you can move on to more fun things, like teaching him tricks. Biting is part of a puppy's normal play behavior, but it is important that the puppy understands that teeth on human skin are not allowed. When the puppy bites, squeal and let your hand go limp so that the game ends and the fun stops. Only restart the game once the pup has backed off and is looking sorry.
React consistently to bites Every time your puppy bites, say "NO!" in a firm voice. Then just walk away and ignore the puppy. Social isolation and time outs can be an effective form of punishment for a pack animal. You can also yelp when your puppy bites too hard. It might seem silly but puppies in a litter will cry out if a sibling accidentally bites too hard. Yelping when your puppy lays teeth on your will give feedback to very young puppies about what is acceptable playing and what isn't. Teach children not to shriek, run or flap their hands because this will engage the puppy's natural prey instincts and add to the problem. Children should remain calm and keep their hands closed and close to their bodies.
Use a taste deterrent to keep your puppy from biting Before you start playing with your puppy, spray a taste deterrent on areas of your body and clothes that your puppy likes to play rough with. When your puppy starts biting you, stop moving and wait for him to react to the taste deterrent. Once your puppy stops biting, praise him and continue playing. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water to get the material off your hands. Taste deterrents include: "Bitter Apple," "Vicks Vapor Rub," or white vinegar. Use these on your hands to make them taste unpleasant. Contrary to a previous post, please note that tea tree oil can cause temporary paralysis in dogs, use products that are tested as safe for dogs.
Redirect your puppy's attention using teething toys When he has calmed down, gently talk to him and stroke him. Keep your hand away from his mouth. Start playing again and avoid getting the puppy excited. This time, use toys instead of your hands to get your puppy engaged. Start playing fetch, so that you are tossing toys away from you and using the puppy's prey drive for positive fun. Playing with toys can be used as a training reward or break and keeps your hands away from the puppy's teeth. Some trainers suggest playing tug-of-war with your puppy. The puppy learns that the game is fun, but is also controlled by you, the human at the other end of the toy. The fun will stop if the rules of the game are not honored, keeping everyone safe.
Play safely while you supervise training Never play roughly with a puppy that bites. Rough play will only encourage this behavior and strongly establish it in the puppy's mind. Never use your hands as toys. You should also closely watch children playing around or with the puppy. Kids are not equipped to train a puppy and injuries can happen. Do not let children play tug with the puppy unless an adult is present, the puppy fully understands the rules, and only if the puppy's size does not pose a risk to the child during the game.
Use a water spray bottle in severe cases In cases where biting is exceptionally strong or persistent, keep a water spray bottle handy. Accompany your firm "NO!" with a squirt of water in puppy's face to interrupt the behavior. Take care to set the nozzle to spray and not jet. You just want to startle the puppy, not harm him. Be aware that the puppy will associate the water spray with you, and this could make him wary of you at other times. Never threaten the puppy with the squirt bottle or create fear. You also do not want to create a situation where the puppy only behaves if the squirt bottle is in your hand.
Reward good behavior Always praise good behavior with lots of gentle love and cuddles. Use rewards effectively to reinforce good behavior. For example, if your dog successfully responds to your request to drop a toy, say, "yes!," or "good boy!" Verbal rewards work well when you are playing and may have your hands full of toys. Remember, you are now the puppy's parent. It is your responsibility to encourage him to become a happy, healthy, well-adjusted family member.
2. Learning About Puppy Biting
Understand how puppies usually learn about biting It's normal for puppies to bite as they develop and grow. Usually, they learn about not biting from other members of their pack, including adult dogs. Puppies learn by playing with other pack mates about when to avoid causing serious damaging through biting. If puppies don't learn to control or stop biting, the other dogs will punish the puppy more severely, possibly by biting the puppy to cause injury. If the puppy does learn easily from his pack mates, they will become more forceful and clear about biting behavior until the puppy behaves in a manner acceptable to other members of its pack.
Realize the importance of teaching your dog not to bite If you allow puppy biting, it may get out of control and your puppy will not learn to control his bite. This can lead to serious behavioral issues when your puppy reaches adulthood. If you suspect your puppy is biting out of fear or anger, talk with an animal behavioral therapist, who may be able to help. It is not acceptable for puppies to bite people, or other animals, unless they are in true physical danger and need to defend themselves.
Take safety precautions if your puppy bites If you are starting a training program with the help of a qualified trainer, consider muzzling your puppy with a basket muzzle. Your puppy will quickly learn to stop nipping or biting with the help of the muzzle, but muzzling is not recommended if you don't have a clear understanding of the training approach and goals. If the muzzle is not introduced and used properly, your puppy can actually become more dangerous to people, especially those trying to put the muzzle on the puppy. Rewarding the puppy by giving it a treat after wearing the muzzle can help the dog associate the muzzle with something good. This makes it less likely to be wary of you or aggressive, and it makes the whole process easier for both you and the dog. Never leave children unattended and unsupervised with dogs, even ones that seem "safe". You may need to isolate the dog and / or crate him when a knowledgeable adult cannot be present.
3. Expert Pro Tips
Use your attention as a training tool. The most basic way to reward your puppy for not biting is simply by allowing them to continue to play with you. Conversely, you can punish a puppy that's taking things too far by removing access to you as a playmate.
Communicate these limits through your body language, energy, and verbal communication. This will mimic the natural way puppies would be ostracized if they played too rough within their litter.
Dogs learn best when we show them what to do instead of what not to do. For instance, try smoothing a little peanut butter on the back of your hand. Present it to the dog, and if they lick instead of using their teeth, mark that as correct with a clicker or a verbal indicator, then give them a treat.
Build on the previous exercise by adding a command. Once that's consistent, remove the peanut butter and treat for licking, then put a verbal word to the action, like "kisses." Now you have something the dog can do instead of biting.
Help your puppy socialize as much as possible. Let your puppy meet other dogs and lots of people in a positive environment. Introduce him to all sorts of new experiences while he is still very young. Enroll the puppy obedience training classes early on and reinforce his place within the family structure.
If a puppy is removed from its mother too early, he probably has not learned when biting has gone too far.
Your puppy's adult teeth will start to erupt around four months - 16 weeks or so, of age. For this reason, you should manage puppy biting before this age since adult teeth will cause more harm to human skin.
Even small breed puppies can cause damage. Do not ignore puppy biting when you have a small breed dog by thinking that it does not matter because they are small. Large or small, this behavior needs to be stopped early on. This will prevent even more serious biting later on.
If you are looking for a great way to deal with puppy mouthing and biting in a controlled setting, consider letting your dog attend supervised puppy "preschool" play times.
If you use a spray bottle, your puppy may become frightened of any squirting sounds and / or water.
If you notice real aggression in your pup, consult your veterinarian, who will check if there is a medical reason for your pup's behavior. Your vet may also recommend your pup sees an animal behavior therapist.
There are many techniques available for managing biting because not all dogs or people respond to the same method. If you or other members of your family are in physical danger or fearful of the puppy, seek the help of an experienced Certified Dog Trainer or Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist - a veterinary specialist immediately. The longer the behavior continues unchecked, the greater the chance of escalation and injury.
Be careful when you spray your pet. If it is a blast of water instead of a misty spray, it could really hurt your puppy and aggravate him further.
Big dogs can be quite intimidating to people in your family as well as people your dog meets outside on walks or at neighborhood parks. Teaching your big dog not to bite from an early age is imperative for the safety of you and your family as well as those around you, but also for the safety of your dog. The size of a large breed dog can be enough to intimidate people, especially those who are fearful of dogs. If your dog is allowed to bite and nibble as a puppy, when he turns into an adult and is more powerful, those little puppy bites with the sharp teeth can become something serious.
Any dog who has bitten more than once runs the risk of being in trouble with the law. So this is an important training for your dog, especially because he is a large breed. You can teach your dog some simple commands such as "no bite" or "gentle" once he is in training. It is much easier to train a puppy not to bite to than it is an adult a dog who is already aggressive. But with a little extra work, you can turn an aggressive dog around as well. Training your dog not to bite when you have food or when he takes food from your hand is a great place to start with this particular task. Also, teaching your dog not to bite during playtime will remind him not to bite when others play with him or when other animals play with him. This kind of training is important for large breeds because of their size and their strength.
GETTING STARTED Training your dog not to bite people or even objects can start with giving him treats from your fingers. These treats should be small so he has to work hard to not bite your hand since that's what he will see when you offer the treat. You can also use toys, teaching your dog when it is okay to playfully be aggressive and when it's not okay to be so aggressive or to keep fighting while playing. Keep your training sessions short but take advantage of every opportunity to remind your dog not to bite even if it's not a scheduled training session.
The Rough Play Method
1. Good Behavior Do not encourage any rough play or poor behavior from your dog. Do encourage good behavior. When your dog is playing nicely with you, not nipping and not biting, offer him treats every so often during play time.
2. Toys Always use toys when you are playing with your big dog so he doesn't confuse hands or arms for something he is allowed to chew on such as a toy. Especially when your big dog is a puppy, he needs to chew and bite on something while teething. However, don't encourage biting on anything except a toy so as he grows older and stronger he knows what is acceptable to bite.
3. Excited Play When your dog, whether a puppy or an adult large breed, gets overly excited at play, immediately stop the play session. Be sure to tell others who are playing with your dog to stop as well when the dog is too excited to control himself.
4. Direct Contact Do not play with your dog without using a toy. Owners who have trouble with large dogs biting will often use their hands around the dog's mouth during play. Do not allow direct contact between your body and your dog's body during playtime. Always use a toy for your dog to play and mouth.
5. A Time Out Give your dog a time out of sorts, once his behavior becomes excited and rough. Have him lay down on his bed with a chew toy away from people so he can calm down, still chew, and play quietly.
6. Other Dogs While you are teaching your dog not to bite, keep his time with other dogs limited to short play sessions and to only one or two dogs rather than a large group of dogs.
The Gentle Command Method
1. Tempt Stand in front of your dog and try to tempt him with a treat in your hand.
2. Eager When your dog goes for the treat, say the command "gentle", and give him the treat.
3. Nip If your dog nips at your fingers or bites your hands trying to get the treat out of your hand, go back and say "ah ah." Repeat your command keyword "gentle" and try to give him the treat again.
4. Treat You don't want to tease your dog by not giving him the treat, so the second time, give him the treat even if he nips your hand. However, try to drop it before he gets his mouth on your hand.
5. Repeat Repeat the steps above until you can hand your dog a treat very gently without him nibbling at your fingers.
6. In Play Once your dog understands the command "gentle" by learning it through earning treat from your hand without biting, begin to use the commands during playtime. Play with your dog and anytime he puts his mouth on your skin or your clothing, use the command word "gentle" to slow him down and remind him not to bite.
7. Practice Continue to practice the "gentle" command anytime your dog needs to be reminded that biting is not okay. This could be in situations where food is involved, where play is involved, where children or other people near your dog are involved, or with other animals. Anytime your dog hears the word "gentle", he should know to back up and not use his mouth for biting.
The Dog's Empathy Method
1. Rough Play Create a situation with your dog so that you are playing rough together. Do not include any toys in your rough playing just use your hands.
2. Yelp When your dog mouths your hands, continue to play with him, allowing him to gently have his mouth on your hands. If he bites, yell out a high-pitched yelp. This sound should mimic a hurt animal.
3. Limp Limb After you have yelped loudly, let your hand or arm hang limp for your dog to observe.
4. Dog's Attention This yelp should get your dog's attention. He should stop biting and potentially even stop mouthing your limp hand or arm and stop and look at you.
5. Ignore After you have gotten your dog's attention or he has stepped away from you or at least pulled his mouth back away from your hand or arm that he bit, ignore him for a moment. He may not chew and may even begin to lick your arm.
6. Praise If he stays away from you or only offers you sweet loving licks to help you with your pain, offer him some verbal praise.
7. Repeat Repeat this method several times until your dog understands that you can play rough together if he can not bite. This works well for large dogs who are around children, which will be around the dog's face quite often. Do not practice this with children or with anyone who may think this is how your dog plays, such as your children.
HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DOG NOT TO BITE A LEASH This information is proudly presented by WWW.3LOSTDOGS.COM
The problem: When you take your puppy for a walk, he constantly chomps on the leash, treating it like a tug toy. You'd prefer it if he'd just walk along nicely, sniffing bushes and peeing on fire hydrants like a civilized dog. Walking "nicely" on leash can be a huge challenge for a puppy. You see, puppies bite stuff. It is just kind of what they do. They love to chomp anything they can get their razor-sharp little teefies on, especially things that moves. Hands, pant legs, your poor old cat, etc.
So of course leashes make enticing moving targets as well. They may also bite the leash out of frustration. They are still getting used to the unnatural, uncomfortable sensation of having their movement restricted. They want to run and explore and wreak havoc like any good puppy, but they are held back by this annoying thing around their neck. In this case, just taking some time to patiently leash-train him may solve the problem entirely. There are three parts to this plan:
1. Decide what you want the pup to actually do Whenever you are trying to stop an unwanted behavior, you have to come up with a new behavior you want to replace it. You concentrate on training the new behavior, and the old "bad" behavior goes away. In this case, the behavior you want is that when the leash is clipped to the collar, he ignores the leash and walks with you, trotting merrily along, peeing on fire hydrants or whatever.
2. Prevent the biting from getting rewarded It is possible you have accidentally been rewarding the biting all this time. It takes two to tug. When the pup grabs the leash, our impulse is to try to pull it away, or push the puppy off it. This is great fun for a puppy, because now you are playing an exciting game of tug-of-war! In her little puppy imagination, you are teammates tearing apart that leash like wolves tearing apart a hunk of moose carcass.
3. Reward the crap out of the behavior you want Make sure all walking without biting gets rewarded. You can use treats, but you might have better results using a tug toy. Because a reward can be whatever the dog wants in that moment. When your pup grabs the leash, he is telling you what he wants: to play tug! You can teach him that by walking nicely on leash, he will get to play.
Step 1: Introduce an acceptable tug toy You do not need or want to get rid of the tugging behavior completely. Tug-of-war is a fantastic game to play with energetic puppies. It burns off energy and gives you something fun to do together, which builds a strong bond. You just need to provide rules about what objects are and are not acceptable to play with. Get a long dog toy, like a knotted rope, a fleece tug, which is what all the cool agility trainers use, or a skinny stuffed animal, like a Loofa dog. I found this ridiculous four-foot tall squeaky baboon that would be perfect. The longer the toy, the better, because:
A) You will be playing tug while you walk the pup. With a long toy you don't have to bend over.
B) The more toy between you and those scary little jaws means less chance of a revved-up pup redirecting her grip onto your hand.
Teach the pup that this is the object she has permission to go nuts over. Channel your inner wolf and play some rousing games of tug. Drag the toy on the ground, encouraging her to chase it. Get down on the floor with her. You get the idea. She needs to learn that playing with this toy is a blast. Introduce a new cue, one that means he is allowed to grab the toy. While you play, every time she starts to go for the toy, say "get it!" and praise when she does.
Step 2: Start training and rewarding good leash behavior in your living room In the living room? Whaa? Why would you do that when the problem is that the puppy goes nuts on walks? This is a crucial piece of the problem-solving puzzle that often gets missed: you have to train the dog before you start working in the problem situation. You are essentially teaching your pup a new trick. To learn a new trick, a dog needs a calm environment where he can focus. Once he understands the "trick", you can start using it in higher-stress situations. You probably would not wait until your little kid was having a meltdown at a birthday party, surrounded by toys and candy and bouncy castles and screaming preschoolers, to introduce the concept of "please" and "thank you." You'd have at least a lesson or two in basic manners beforehand. Same idea with a puppy. You can't wait until your pup is on a walk, jumping and biting and generally being a little hellion, to introduce the concept of polite leash manners.You will need:
The pup when he is in a relatively calm mood
A leash and a container of really good, soft treats chopped into tiny pieces
Hold the leash in your hand, do not attach it to the dog yet. In a calm, boring fashion so as not to entice him to attack, dangle the leash a foot in front of him - if he automatically attacks it, you probably need to start with it further away. For as long as he is not going after it, praise and offer treats. You are rewarding the absence of biting, so you can offer a treat for: sniffing the leash, looking at it, looking away, looking at you, staring into space, etc. There is a good video demonstration of this exercise here.
At this first training session, make sure your puppy is successful. Set the situation up so that the puppy's "kill the moving object" instincts are not triggered. You do this by behaving pretty much the opposite of how you did when you were trying to get him to play with the tug toy - remain calm, move slowly, move the leash slowly. After three minutes, end the session. Get the tug toy and play a game. Over the next couple sessions, gradually make it harder. Move the leash more, drag it on the ground, wave it around. If the puppy bites the leash:
Immediately drop the leash, and gently hold him by the collar or harness. Stay still. Be boring. Wait for her to drop the leash. When she does, let go, praise and treat. When you can get through a three-minute session without him going after the leash, you are ready to move on the the next step.
Step 3: Puppy on leash in the living room Attach the leash to the puppy. Walk him across the room while talking excitedly or making funny noises to keep his attention. As long as he is not biting the leash, offer a treat every step. And if he bites the leash, drop it and take his collar. Over a couple of sessions, gradually increase the number of steps between treats. When you can walk briskly in a circle around the room without him biting, it is time for the next step - adding the tug toy!
Step 4: Reward with tug You might wonder why we introduced the tug toy at the beginning, but did not train with it until now. That is because the tug toy creates excitement and riles the pup up, which makes it harder for her to concentrate on what you are teaching. With the nice calm treat training, we have created a bit of understanding: walking and ignoring the leash makes good things happen, biting the leash makes good things stop. Now it is time to put that understanding to the test, by increasing the difficulty level of this little game. Start with the pup off-leash. The tug toy in one hand and the leash in the other. Wave the leash in front of the pup's face. When he ignores it, praise and tell him to get the tug. Play an enthusiastic but short game, about thirty seconds. Take the toy away and reset. Do three to ten reps of this, depending on your puppy's attention span. Always stop before she gets bored and wanders off. Next, puppy is on leash. Walk him in a circle around the room, then reward with the tug toy.
Step 5: Take it to the streets Well, before you take it to the streets, take it to the kitchen, the upstairs hallway, the backyard, the front yard, etc. It is all about that sweet generalization. But THEN take it to the streets, wandering your neighborhood like an actual walk. You are finally ready to do the exercises in the big exciting real world. Now, depending on how intense and bitey your puppy is, you might need to repeat steps 1-4 out here, or just step four. Out in the world, your pup might lose interest in treats or the tug toy, wanting instead to run around or sniff things. That's fine. Use the running around and sniffing as rewards for walking without biting. As long as he does not bite, he gets to do those things. If he bites the leash, uh oh! Fun times are over. You drop the leash, hold the collar and be boring for a while.
What is Dog Bite Infection? Domestic animals, like dogs and cats, are responsible for most animal bites. While dogs cause more bite injuries, cat bites are more likely to become infected. According to the American Academy of Pediatrics, infection occurs in about 10 - 15 % of dog bites and up to 50 percent of cat bites. One reason that animal bites often lead to infection is that bites often occur on the fingers or hands. These areas are where the body may have a harder time fighting infection.
Also, the bacteria often come from the dog's mouth or may be present on the human's skin. The infections are often caused by these bacteria penetrating the skin. As the bacteria multiply, the body's immune response causes common symptoms of infection. Swelling and inflammation are two examples. Animal bite infections are serious and can even be life-threatening if left untreated. Animal bites that do not break the skin are not at risk for infection. Scrapes or scratches that just graze the skin's surface have a minimal risk of infection. Cuts or lacerations have a higher risk of infection. Puncture wounds caused by cats are considered to have the highest risk of infection.
Symptoms of a dog bite infection can include: Swelling and redness around the wound Pain that lasts longer than 24 hours Drainage from the wound Difficulty moving the affected part of the body A warm feeling around the wound
Signs that the infection may have spread to other parts of the body include: Fever Shaking Night sweats
COMPLICATIONS You should seek immediate medical treatment if: Symptoms worsen
Symptoms do not improve
Symptoms return after going away
New symptoms appear.
You should also contact your doctor immediately if the animal that bit you starts showing symptoms of illness. Potential complications of animal bite infections include tetanus and rabies.
Capnocytophaga If people have a Capnocytophaga infection from a dog bite, they may have the following symptoms: Blistering around the wound
Redness, Swelling, and Pain around the wound Oozing from the wound Fever Vomiting and Diarrhea Headaches Joint Pain
Symptoms can appear between 1 and 14 days after a dog bite. The following factors can increase a person's risk of infection: Excessive alcohol use Not having a spleen The presence of health conditions that affect the immune system Taking medications that can damage cells, such as chemotherapy
Without treatment, complications of Capnocytophaga infection can include: Kidney Failure Heart Attack Gangrene
A doctor will prescribe antibiotics to treat a Capnocytophaga infection.
Sepsis Untreated animal bites can sometimes lead to sepsis. Sepsis is a severe reaction to infection, and it can be life threatening. Signs of sepsis include: High or Low Body Temperature
Extreme Daytime Sleepiness
Severe Pain or Discomfort
If a person suspects that they have sepsis, they should seek immediate medical attention. A doctor will treat sepsis with antibiotics and intravenous fluids.
Rabies People can get rabies if a dog that has rabies bites them. The first symptoms of rabies are:
A Headache, Fever, and other Flu-like Symptoms
An Itching or Prickling feeling around the bite
Rabies is fatal if a person does not receive treatment. People should see their doctor straight away if they think that the dog that bit them might have rabies. Postexposure rabies vaccination can treat the infection.
Tetanus A dog bite can cause tetanus bacteria to enter the body. Symptoms of tetanus include: Cramping in the Jaw
Muscle Spasms, usually in the Stomach
Tetanus is a serious infection. People with any symptoms of tetanus need immediate medical attention. They will require medications, such as antibiotics, as well as a tetanus vaccine.
Pasteurella Pasteurella is a bacterial organism that is often found in the mouths of cats and in some dogs. A child or adult who is bitten by an animal with this bacterium can develop a skin infection called cellulitis. Symptoms of cellulitis often appear within 24 hours after exposure to the infection. Common symptoms include:
Swelling, Redness, Warmth or Tenderness of the skin
Discharge of Pus
Enlarged Nymph Nodes
Urinary Tract Infections
Other medical conditions, such as Pneumonia or Meningitis
Staph Infection A dog bite can also lead to other types of infections, such as staph infections, which are caused by staphylococcus bacteria, commonly found on the skin or in the nose of healthy people. Some of the symptoms of a staph infection include the following:
Boils on the Skin
Red and Swollen Skin
Drainage of Pus
Impetigo or other Skin Rash
Blisters on the skin with Oozing Fluid
MRSA Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus is a staph infection that can be spread by dogs even when the animal does not show symptoms. MRSA causes lung, skin and urinary tract infections, and may spread to the lungs or bloodstream leading to life-threatening infections.
Although you can provide first aid for a dog bite at home, it's very important to see a doctor, especially if an unfamiliar dog bit you, the bite is deep, you can't stop the bleeding, or there are any signs of infection - redness, swelling, warmth, pus. Dog bites can cause infections that need to be treated with antibiotics.
To care for a dog bite injury at home: Place a clean towel over the injury to stop any bleeding
Try to keep the injured area elevated
Wash the bite carefully with soap and water
Apply a sterile bandage to the wound
Apply antibiotic ointment to the injury every day to prevent infection
How are animal bite infections treated? The first step with an animal bite is to properly clean and assess the wound. This could help prevent infection in an animal bite. To properly clean an animal bite, take the following steps.
For a Minor Wound: Wash the area thoroughly with soap and water and Cover the area with a fresh, clean bandage.
For a deep wound, suspected rabies, or a wound showing symptoms of infection: Apply pressure to stop any bleeding using a clean cloth, Wash the area thoroughly with soap and water and Seek immediate medical attention to look for signs of infection.
If an infection develops, your doctor will prescribe antibiotics. A typical round of treatment will last five to 10 days. However, the length of your treatment may vary based on many factors, including: the type and the severity of the bite, existing health issues.
For infected bites, your doctor may recommend intravenous (IV) antibiotics until the infection clears. But most infected bites will only need oral antibiotics. Your doctor might also suggest a tetanus booster shot. This depends on how severe the bite is and your vaccination status. After performing blood tests to determine the extent of the infection, your doctor might need to stitch the wound. They may also ask you to return for a follow-up visit after 48 hours to monitor the wound. If left untreated, infection from animal bites could spread and cause serious medical problems. Infection generally develops within 24 to 48 hours.
When you visit the doctor, be prepared to answer a few questions, including: Do you know the owner of the dog?
If so, is the dog up to date on all vaccinations, including rabies?
Did the bite occur because the dog was provoked, or was the dog unprovoked?
What health conditions do you have? People with diabetes, liver disease, illnesses that suppress the immune system, and other health conditions may be at greater risk for a more severe infection.
How should dog bites be managed to reduce risk of infection? Meticulous cleaning with extensive irrigation with sterile normal saline is the cornerstone for post-exposure management of a bite to reduce the risk of infection. Some evidence suggests high-pressure irrigation may reduce bacterial counts more effectively than simple irrigation, although other recommendations suggest avoidance of high-pressure irrigation because of concern that infectious agents will be driven into deeper tissue locations.
Devitalized tissue should be debrided, and foreign material should be removed. Surgical exploration may be needed if extensive tissue damage has occurred. Bites on the hand and foot have a higher risk of infection, especially if the wound penetrates multiple tissue planes. Bite wounds of the face are associated with a lower risk of infection because of a rich vascular supply and perhaps because these wounds come to medical attention sooner than bites in other anatomic areas. Increasing time to medical attention is associated with increasing risk of infection.
The role of wound closure is controversial. Infectious Diseases Society of America guidelines state that primary closure is not routinely indicated following a dog bite, except for bites to the face. Other wounds may be approximated. Primary closure may increase the risk of infection, even when prophylactic antimicrobial therapy is administered.
A bite wound generally becomes colonized or infected with bacteria from the dog's mouth rather than by bacteria colonizing the victim's skin. Oftentimes, multiple bacteria including both aerobes and anaerobes can be isolated from the site of injury. Despite numerous studies, the role of presumptive antimicrobial therapy to prevent infection is not clear. Prophylactic therapy for three to five days appears to have some benefit in reducing infection if initiated within 12 to 24 hours after injury.
Antibiotic prophylaxis commonly is recommended for moderate to severe wounds of the face, hands - bites tend to involve the dominant hand, feet or genital area. Bites involving tendon, bone or joints and bites resulting in devitalized tissue generally are treated with antibiotic prophylaxis. All immunocompromised children are candidates for post-exposure prophylaxis following a dog bite. Capnocytophaga canimorsus is recognized to cause bacteremia and sepsis after a dog bite, especially in children with asplenia.
If wound prophylaxis is indicated, amoxicillin-clavulanate is recommended. For a child truly allergic to penicillin, trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole plus clindamycin may be used for oral therapy. Infected animal bite wounds should be treated with an empiric antimicrobial agent, such as amoxicillin-clavulanate, that is active against both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. For intravenous therapy, ampicillin-sulbactam or piperacillin-tazobactam may be used. If indicated, doxycycline can be administered orally or intravenously regardless of patient age. Aerobic and anaerobic cultures are recommended prior to antibiotic therapy if the bite appears infected or systemic signs of infection are present. Culture of wounds that appear uninfected is not recommended.
When examining the wound of a dog bite, it is important to determine the depth of penetration and injury to deeper structures. The risk of involvement of the joints, tendon or bone, range of motion of the involved limb, type of drainage, including purulence or malodor, nerve involvement, lymphangitic streaking, regional lymphadenopathy and the possibility of a foreign body such as a tooth. Wounds contaminated with soil may involve atypical mycobacteria or fungi. Vaccine considerations following a dog bite should include evaluation of need for tetanus prophylaxis. Dog bites generally are not considered to be tetanus prone unless they are contaminated with soil. If tetanus prophylaxis is indicated, an appropriate tetanus-containing vaccine (Tdap, DTaP, DT) should be administered based on the child's age and vaccination history. Tetanus immunoglobulin should be considered in a child who is incompletely vaccinated.
Tetanus toxoid should be administered to patients following a high-risk bite and without vaccination within 10 years. Tdap is preferred if this vaccine has not been given previously. A booster dose of tetanus toxoid vaccine should be administered for dirty wounds if more than five years has elapsed since the last dose and for clean wounds if more than 10 years. Assessment for rabies risk will determine the need for rabies immunoglobulin and the rabies vaccine series. Public health personnel in a state health department can assist in determining the need for post-exposure rabies prophylaxis. The potential for rabies infection is highest after a bat or carnivore bite or from a dog with uncertain rabies vaccination status that cannot be captured for adequate quarantine. Eikenella corrodens and group A streptococcal infections are rarely associated with dog bites. They are constituents of normal human mouth flora and often are associated with human bites. Most dog bites to young children occur in the home.
If your dog bites someone, you will probably find yourself worried and upset. Will there be legal ramifications? Could your dog be euthanized or taken away from you? After a dog bite occurs, your first reaction might be shock or panic. However, it is important to take swift action if a dog bite occurs. Dog bites are scary for everyone involved – the person who has been bitten, the dog owner and even the dog. If your dog happens to bite someone, remember that you are responsible to help the person who has been bitten and to remove your dog from the situation.
What should you do if the unfortunate happens?
Restrain your dog immediately
Separate your dog from the scene of the bite
Try to confine your dog in a safe place
Check on the bite victim's condition
Make sure that the wounds are washed with soap and water
Encourage the bite victim to seek professional medical advice to check on the seriousness of the wound and the risk of rabies or other infections
Call 911 if a response by paramedics is needed
Provide important information
Give the bite victim or others who are with the person at the time of the incident: your name, address and phone number, as well as information about your dog's most recent rabies vaccination
Obey local rules and laws regarding reporting of dog bites
Talk to your veterinarian for advice about dog behavior that will help prevent similar incidents in the future.
Contact Your Insurance Company. When your dog bites someone on your property, which may include your car, it is important that you reach out to your home or renter's insurance to alert them of the incident. Most insurance policies have coverage for medical expenses for injuries that took place on your property.
What to Do if Your Dog Bites a Child? In cases where the victim is a child, it's important to try and determine what the cause of the bite was. Even if you only saw the tail-end of what happened, it is somewhere to start. The reasoning for this is that if the bite was provoked, your dog may get off with a warning. Many children do not know how to handle dogs properly. They may pull on them, hit them, stand on them, and do other things that could cause the dog to eventually snap. And, since children can not read dog body language unless taught, they don't know the warning signs and cannot stop before they cross the dog's aggression threshold. Try to keep in mind that this is a high-stakes emotional situation - the parent of the child will probably be agitated and may lash out at you. Remember to maintain your composure, mom is feeling just as shaky and scared as you are, if not more. Always sequester your dog and seek medical attention first, as you would with any bite. Then, try to talk to the kiddo with their parent, of course about what happened if they are old enough. If they are not old enough to talk things through, wait until the parent has calmed down before discussing what happened. Pushing too hard could overwhelm them and reduce the likelihood of a positive resolution. If the bite was unprovoked and the dog snapped for an unrelated reason or went out of its way to bite the child, however, there will likely be further repercussions.
Caring for Your Dog After He's Bitten Someone In addition to dealing with the person who was bitten, you should take time to evaluate your dog's behavior during and after the event. Having an idea of why your dog crossed his threshold and bit someone is important. Try to remember how your dog's body language looked right before the bite.
Was he cowering low to the ground with his tail tucked and ears back?
Was he trying to guard a resource like a toy, food, or even his water bowl?
Was he giving warning signals like growling or snarling?
Was he acting completely normally?
These are questions that a trainer will ask you when evaluating your dog for behavior modification, so knowing how to answer ahead of time is helpful.
Your Role After a Dog Bite The dog bite victim may choose to press charges or file a civil suit against you. In either case, you should immediately hire an attorney. While you may or may not be legally ordered to cover the victim's medical expenses, it is a good idea to offer up front to pay. This shows the victim that you are accepting responsibility for your dog. It may even help you avoid a messy lawsuit. Above all, it is the ethical thing to do, even if you have an explanation for the dog bite. In reality, proving your dog was provoked or somehow justified will be difficult unless it can be proven that the victim was committing a crime. This simply may not be an argument that is not worth having.
If you are fortunate enough to get to keep your dog, it is your responsibility to prevent this type of thing from happening in the future. Take steps to prevent your dog from biting again. In most cases, a dog bite can be easily prevented by taking the proper safety measures. If you are able to determine what triggered the bite, try to keep your dog from getting into the same situation. Work with your dog to adjust its reaction to the trigger. It is absolutely essential to work on training and socialization with your dog as soon as possible after the bite. The best plan is to contact a professional trainer and possibly a veterinary behaviorist.
DO NOT PUNISH YOUR DOG FOR BITING! The most dangerous course of action for the dog and the human, is also the one taken by most uninformed owners of dogs who bite. Many people react to their dog's bite by physically and sometimes severely punishing the dog into submission. Some dog trainers even recommend this method, to be employed at the dog's first sign of aggression. A warning growl or snarl is met with a harsh verbal correction and a leash jerk, followed by more serious measures such as hanging or helicoptering if the dog continued to resist. While this method does manage to "whip" some dogs "into shape," others will escalate their resistance, fighting back until dog, human, or both, are seriously injured or even dead. You should NOT punish a dog for biting.
How can a dog owner be held responsible? A dog owner can be held responsible for their dog's action of biting another person. However, there are certain circumstances for these kinds of situations. A dog does not necessarily need to have a history of violence for the owner to be liable. If the dog bit someone "at large," which means that the dog was off the premises with no restraints and not in the owner's control, then the owner may be to blame. In contrast, if the victim was on the owner's property and the dog was controlled, then the injured party may need to prove negligence. By proving negligence, you may be able to seek damages for your injury. This can result in compensation for your medical bills.
If the dog was known to have a history of violent behavior, it is mostly assumed that the owner should have known about this behavior from their pet. The victim may have an easier case due to a previous history. However, if a victim willing trespasses on a property and the dog attacks, it may be harder to prove. If the victim is somehow responsible due to behavior that antagonized the dog or an attempt to commit a crime, then they may not be able to prove liability on behalf of the owner.
Bite inhibition is the single most important lesson a dog must learn. Adult dogs have teeth and jaws that can hurt and harm. All animals must learn to inhibit use of their weapons against their own kind, but domestic animals must learn to be gentle with all animals, especially people. Domestic dogs must learn to inhibit their biting toward all animals, especially toward other dogs and people. The narrow time window for developing a "soft mouth" begins to close at four and half months of age, about the time when the adult canine teeth first show. Providing your puppy with an ideal forum to learn bite inhibition is the most pressing reason to enroll him in puppy classes before he is eighteen weeks old.
Bite inhibition does not mean stopping the puppy from biting altogether. On the contrary, puppies must bite in order to learn bite inhibition. Bite inhibition means, learning to inhibit the force of the bites, so they no longer hurt or cause damage. Puppies bite and thank goodness they do. Puppy biting is a normal, natural, and necessary puppy behavior. For puppies that do not grow up with the benefit of regular interaction with other dogs and other animals, the responsibility of teaching bite inhibition lies with the owner.
Even when provoked to bite, a dog with well-established bite inhibition seldom breaks the skin. As long as a dog's bite causes little or no damage, behavioral rehabilitation is comparatively easy. But when your dog inflicts deep puncture wounds as an adult, rehabilitation is much more complicated, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. Good bite inhibition is the most important quality of any companion dog.
Human Bite Inhibition? No dog is perfectly behaved, but luckily, most dogs are pretty well-socialized and have pretty good bite inhibition. Most dogs are basically friendly, even though they may occasionally be fearful and wary of some people some of the time. Also, although many dogs have growled, lunged, snapped, or even nipped someone at some time in their lives, very few dogs have ever inflicted any appreciable damage. Perhaps a human analogy will help illustrate the crucial importance of bite inhibition. Few people can honestly say that they have never had a disagreement, never had an argument, or never laid a hand on someone in anger (especially when considering siblings, spouses, and children). However, very few people have ever hurt another person so badly that they had to be admitted to the hospital. Thus, most people freely admit that they are sometimes disagreeable, argumentative, and prone to physical violence. Even so, very few people have injured another person. Dogs are no different. Most dogs have several disagreements and arguments each day. Many dogs have been involved in full-contact fights at some time in their lives. But very, very few dogs have ever severely injured another dog or a person. This is the importance of bite inhibition.
Bite Inhibition with Other Dogs Dogfights offer a wonderful illustration of the effectiveness of solid bite inhibition. When dogs fight, it usually sounds like they are tying to kill each other, and it appears they forcibly bite each other over and over. However, when the dust settles and the dogs are examined, 99 percent of the time there are no puncture wounds whatsoever. Even though the fight was a frenzied flurry of activity and both dogs were extremely worked up, no harm was done because both dogs had exquisitely fine-tuned bite inhibition, acquired during puppyhood. Puppies teach each other bite inhibition when play-fighting, their number one favorite activity. Unless there are vaccinated adult dogs at home, your puppy must live within a temporary doggy social vacuum and dog-dog socialization must be postponed for a while. Until your puppy has acquired sufficient active immunity, it is too risky to allow him to socialize with dogs of dubious immunization history, or with dogs that have been in contact with the urine and feces of dogs potentially infected with parvovirus and other serious puppy diseases. There is no greater enjoyment than watching your dog-friendly adult dog enjoy playing with other dogs. Bite inhibition, however, cannot be put on hold.
Bite Inhibition with People Even if your puppy has a couple of canine buddies at home, you will still need to teach your puppy to inhibit the force and frequency of his bites toward people. Additionally, you must teach your puppy how to react when frightened or hurt by people. He should by all means yelp, but he should not bite and he should never bear down. Even if your dog is friendly and mouths gently, by five months of age at the very latest, he must be taught never to touch any person's body or clothing with his jaws unless requested. Whereas mouthing is essential for puppies and acceptable from a young adolescent dog, it would be utterly inappropriate for an older adolescent or adult dog to mouth visitors and strangers. It would be absolutely unacceptable for a six-month-old dog to approach a child and take hold of her arm, no matter how gentle, friendly, and playful the dog's intentions. It would frighten the living daylights out of the child, to say nothing of her parents.
Out of Control Play Sessions Some owners, especially adult males, adolescent males, and boys, quickly let play-mouthing sessions get out of control. This is why many dog-training texts recommend not indulging in games such as play-fighting or tug-of-war. The whole point about playing these games is to improve your control. And if you play these games by the rules, you will soon have excellent control over your puppy's mouthing behavior, vocal output, energy level, and activity. However, if you do not play by the rules, you will soon have an adult dog that is dangerously out of control.
Practice "Off," "Sit," and "Settle Down" many times during your puppy's play sessions, and you will soon have an easily controllable adult dog, one that has learned to listen to you no matter how excited and worked up he may be. Do not play with your pup without frequent interruptions. Have short timeouts at least every fifteen seconds or so to check that you are in control and can easily and quickly get the puppy to let go, calm down, and settle down. The more you practice, the more control you will have.
Puppies with Soft Mouths Many gundog breeds, especially Spaniels, have extremely soft mouths as puppies and therefore receive limited feedback that their jaws can hurt. If a puppy does not frequently mouth, bite, and does not occasionally bite hard, this is serious. The puppy must learn his limits, and he can only learn his limits by exceeding them during development and receiving the appropriate feedback. Again, the solution lies with puppy classes and off-leash play sessions with other puppies.
Puppies That Don't Bite Shy dogs seldom socialize or play with other dogs or strangers. Hence they do not play-bite, nor do they learn to reduce the force of their bites. The classic case history describes a dog that didn't mouth or bite much as a pup and never bit anyone as an adult, until an unfamiliar child tripped and fell on the dog while he was gnawing on a bone. Not only did the dog bite, but his first bite left deep puncture wounds because he had developed no bite inhibition. With shy puppies, socialization is of paramount importance and time is of the essence. Similarly, some Asian breeds have an extremely high degree of fidelity toward their owners, and, consequently, tend to be fairly standoffish with other dogs or human strangers. Some restrict their mouthing and biting to members of the family, and some simply do not mouth at all. Hence, they never learn to inhibit the force of their jaws. Non-biting puppies must be socialized immediately.
Did your dog make the cut? All these dogs are ranked by their bite force which is measured in Pounds per Square Inch or PSI. This is not a reflection of any single animal and should only be taken as a scientific study.
What is PSI? PSI is a unit made to calculate the pressure released upon any given point. The full meaning of psi is "Pound per Square Inch" or "Pound-force per Square Inch". PSI is a measured result of all the pressure applied over one square inch of a pound. It is a very commonly used system and is easy to understand for even some of the most scientifically challenged people. To understand this a little better, take a tire for example. The average tire's pressure generally falls around 32 psi or pounds per square inch. PSI is the scientific method used to explain the force that a dog is able to put forth through their bites. This list documents the twelve strongest dogs based on the psi system.Meanwhile, the PSI that the jaws of animals will make use of is normally average.
However, the pressure may vary based on - What gets bitten, Feelings of the dog - its mood, The dog itself. If compared, while humans make use of an average bite force that ranges from 120-140 PSI, the Nike crocodile's bite force is 5,000 PSI. Well, the bite force of the average dog is placed around 230-250 PSI even though some of these dogs have more strength. Measuring the exact bite force of dogs gets very complicated.
What Dog has the Strongest Bite?
1. Kangal Dog with the Strongest Bite! Bite Force - 743 PSI Kangals are guard dogs originating from Sivas City in Turkey. They are the strongest dogs in the world and hold the crown for the top bite. These dogs have been used as guard dogs to protect sheep and other flocks against bigger predators such as wolves, jackals, and bears. They are known for their loyalty, protectiveness, and for their gentleness towards children and other animals. This breed is not the best when it comes to strangers due to their protective nature. This means that taking them out for a walk can be a little troubling at times. As with all breeds, be sure to give them proper socialization at a young age to keep them used to meet new people. Luckily, this only adds to the amazing job they can do when involved with the police force or as a home protector. This dog breed can easily take down any medium-sized predator in minutes with their strong muscles and agility. They have great amounts of strength and when talking about bite force, they have the highest pressure per square inch currently recorded. According to the many research tests available, evidence points to the Kangal as having the strongest dog bite in the world.
2. American Bandogge - 730 PSI Just one look at this big boy and you will know it's a dog not to mess up with. If you think its burly frame is fearful enough to behold, wait till you learn how much pain its jaw can inflict! The Bandog has a bite strength of 730 PSI, which is strong enough to tear a limb and haunt you with scars. The American Bandogge is not a standardized breed recognized by the American Kennel Club or any major canine organization. Simply known as "Bandog" since the Middle Ages, it is used to refer to any muscular and heavily built crossbreed whose parents fall underneath the Molosser category, particularly war dogs who participated the Holy Crusade. Bandogs were developed with the sole purpose of serving as a formidable guardian. The term "Bandog" was derived from the fact that strong metal chains were used to bind this ferocious beast. The exact origins of the Bandog remains a moot point but one thing is for sure, this dog has man and beast stopping capabilities!
3. Cane Corso - 700 PSI Second on our list is Italy's most valued canine, the Cane Corso. This large and imposing dog is the descendant of the great canines of Roman antiquity. In the recent past, dogs of this breed served as catch dogs in rural areas. They were also employed as sentries and attack dogs by carters, night watchmen, and tax collectors. The Cane Corso's most prominent feature is its large and imposing head. It also flaunts a lustrous short coat that is either jet black or fawn in color. The Cane Corso has an atrocious bite force of 700 PSI. Hence, this puma-like dog is a fearless opponent to anyone who poses a threat to his master. Although the Cane Corso packs a considerable bite strength, these dogs are obedient and affectionate to their family members once they display a definite preference. They are quite intelligent and eager to learn, which makes them practically easy to train. However, their strong prey drive and overprotectiveness should concern you if you have pocket pets or if you always seem to have frequent visitors at home.
4. Dogue De Bordeaux - 556 PSI Next up is the oldest Molosser-type hailing from Bordeaux, the port city in southwestern France. The Dogue De Bordeaux, also known as the French Mastiff and Bordeaux Mastiff, has been around since the 14th century. Fanciers of this breed made sure to preserve the line pure in future generations. In the distant past, these dogs were assigned to various capacities involving brute strength. They pull carts, haul heavy objects, guard livestock, and watch over the mansions of the nobles they serve. Today, the Dogue De Bordeaux is best known as a laidback companion who snores and drools a lot. Inside the home, these dogs are calm and quiet. Likewise, they are quite tolerant of kids, unlike other mastiffs. As long as you won't hurt or threaten this dog, there is no reason for him to demonstrate his bite strength of 556 PSI. The Dogue De Bordeaux has a powerful build and a monstrous skull, which is claimed as the largest in the canine world. So, it comes as no surprise that its jaw packs a lot of punch.
5. Tosa Inu - 556 PSI The Tosa Inu is the product of crossbreeding European dogs with the purpose of creating the fiercest canine gladiator. Tosa breeding was at its peak between 1924 and 1933. Back then there were roughly 5, 000 breeders in Japan who aspired to create an impregnable hybrid. It has a bite strength of 556 PSI but unless you are a thief, you won't have to worry about getting your arm lacerated. Like a samurai, these dogs are honest, dignified, and loyal. Tosa Inus can easily cope with a variety of activities as long as they receive proper training and good leadership. However, the Tosa Inu is often presented as a wild menacing dog due to its dark history. Many countries, including Australia, Denmark, Germany, Norway, and Malaysia, have currently banned the ownership of the said breed.
6. English Mastiff - 556 PSI English Mastiffs are a larger breed of dog. These dogs tend to be calm and very powerful when needed. The ancestors of the Mastiffs are the "Molossus", who were noted as being ferocious and talented war dogs. Today English Mastiffs are very calm and gentle dogs. Despite this dog being giant in stature, they are an extremely gentle breed who will even watch over your children with caring and grace. This dog is also noted to be one of the largest dog breeds in the world and can be a bit of a lazy partner at times. They do not require as much play as some of the other breeds on this list, but they do require a huge portion of food to keep them going daily. Their bite force is enormous and they have one of the highest "bite forces" recorded in dog breeds with 556 pound per square inch. With this enormous about of bite force, the breed can easily break any bone in your body.
7. Presa Canario - 540 PSI This majestic dog hails from the beautiful Canary Islands and is a far cry from the gentle, dainty canary. The Perro de Presa Canario, simply known as Dogo Canario, is considered as one of the most lethal canines. In fact, it has been linked to numerous fatal attacks to date. The Dogo Canario is a historical war dog and were also used in dog fighting before it was illegalized in the 1940s. This bad boy shows off a heavy, rectangular body and a massive head. It can slam its powerful jaw shut with 540 PSI thus, causing serious injury or even death due to hemorrhage. Dogo Canarios are still prominently aggressive. So, it comes as no surprise that this breed is outlawed in many countries. Regardless, the Dogo Canario is much loved in its native land. They have proven themselves an exemplary guard dog and a lovely family member. Do take note that this dog is not ideal for the average family. They need a big yard to play, regular mental stimulation, and most of all, an unyielding Alpha. If your dog thinks he is a better Alpha than you, he is more than willing to take the role.
8. Dogo Argentino - 500 PSI The Dogo Argentino was developed in Argentina for the purpose of creating a dog that would exhibit tenacity in hunting as well as an unshakeable resolve in protecting its owner. It descended from the Cordobra Fighting Dog along with other vigorous breeds. With a bite strength of 500 PSI, quick reflexes, and a heavy stature, the Dogo Argentino is unsurprisingly feared by many. These dogs can take on wild boars and buffalos with ease. They are also quite neat. True, the Dogo Argentinos are inherently aggressive but they do not snap without a reason. With early socialization and obedience training, these dogs can be a wonderful addition to the family, a relentless guardian, and a skilled hunter that will bring you dinner.
9. Wolfdog - 406 PSI This dog is a hybrid between a wolf and a domestic dog. Due to this, keeping them can be slightly more dangerous than keeping your average dog. They also can be a bit harder to come by when looking for a breeder to purchase one from. The physical characteristics can also be a little unpredictable due to the complicated process of mating dogs with feral wolves. Even when the wolf is not completely feral, there currently is no completely domesticated wolf to breed from. That being said, these dogs have a pack mentality and can be extremely loyal.
10. Leonberger - 399 PSI The Leonberger hails from the city of Leonberg in Baden-Württemberg, Germany hence, the breed's name. They were bred to resemble lions but truth be told, these dogs look more like cuddly teddy bears, do not they? Despite their enormous size, Leonbergers are as gentle as they are adorable! These giants are prized by their playfulness, nimble wits, and leniency towards small children and the elderly. Families who have owned a Leonberger mentioned how this breed thrives in close-knit families and also gets along well with other pets. They are also quite sensitive, which makes them ideal therapy dogs. Although the Leonberger may have a big heart, it is best not to push this gentle giant to its limits. When angered, it can unleash a bite force of 399 PSI. These dogs are also aggressive chewers and excessive barkers. And although they love children, it is wise that you supervise playtime with these dogs as their size can easily knock down a toddler.
11. Akita Inu - 350-400 PSI Does the name Hachiko ring a bell? Hachiko was the Akita Inu that waited at the Shibuya Train Station for 10 long years to see his master return. The dog's story caught media attention and was later adapted into films and storybooks. The Akita Inu is showered with love and admiration not only by the Japanese but also by the entire world because of the stout heart and working spirit they possess. While this breed has a couple of commendable traits, the potential is there for this dog to attack with deadly consequences. The Akita Inu can slam its scissor-like jaw shut with up to 400 PSI and you really could not force the dog to open its mouth until it decides to let go. Its sheer size alone is a reason why this breed is feared by some. Despite having an irresistibly cute fox-like face and fluffy coat, some find the Akita Inu intimidating due to its strong striking physique. The Akita Inu, in general, do not have the tendency to bite although they can be stubborn at times. As expected of a brave and loyal dog, they only attack other humans and animals if their family members are in danger. Their territorial personality makes these dogs prone to defend their human family, even if it costs them their lives.
12. Rottweiler - 328 PSI Rottweilers are a toughened breed of dogs. Originally, they were bred to help with work such as pulling carts and guarding the homestead. They were one of the first dog breeds formally adopted by the police, which still help out in the force today. They are medium in size with a great build and amazing amounts of strength. They are very agile and have high levels of endurance to keep them going. They are also commonly used in many different search and rescue missions by the police and military. This breed is a wonderful combination of strength, intelligence, and endurance. Rottweilers are considered to be fearless, good-natured companions that can beat out just about any breed with their good behavior. This breed is also very alert and can go into defense mode in a matter of seconds when threatened by danger. This dog is used in police operations due to their confidence and powerful build. The bite force in an average Rottweiler is 328 pounds per square inch. That is more than double the weight of this dog's breed.
13. Siberian Husky - 320 PSI Huskies are delightful pets! They will always be a sled dog by heart so you need to provide them with a huge playground and energy-depleting activities. Otherwise, they will run around your house like a lunatic or cause a community meltdown with their loud howling. Aside from being annoyingly playful at times, there is nothing negative to say about this breed. But do take note that these gentle, happy go lucky dogs have a tremendous bite force of 320 PSI. So, it is quite a relief that they only inherited the lupine facial features of their wild and menacing ancestors, not their temperament.
14. African Wild Dog - 317 PSI Unlike most of the other dogs included in this list, this breed falls under the rare category of being a "cape hunting dog." This means that this breed is seen as a type of ultimate hunter. This dog breed is a relative of the Sub-Saharan Dog and it is one of the largest dogs in this particular family. They are also known for being hypercarnivorous meaning that at least 70% of their diet is made up of meat. It is also worth noting that according to the IUCA, this breed is considered an endangered species. African Wild Dogs are very social animals and tend to live in packs. They even have been observed to have social hierarchies for bothmales and females within the pack. This breed tends to be a great hunting dog by nature. You can estimate this animal's competitive hunting nature by comparing them to wild animals such as hyenas. This animal is very agile at catching their prey and is only topped in game by bigger threats such as the lion. One of the breed's favorite types of prey is the antelope, which they can easily catch as they can be found in large numbers throughout the Sahara. Of course, living in the wild combined with many years of evolution has made their jaw very strong. Their amount of bite force is enough to break any bone in a deer.
15. American Bulldog - 305 PSI American Bull Dogs are a strong and powerful breed of dog. They tend to be well built with muscular body types and sport a large head with strong neck muscles. These dogs make great family pets and can adapt to your home's daily life rather easily. They tend to care for their owners and will form strong bonds to anyone they are in regular contact with. While this breed is a cuddler, they are very strong and confident in their abilities. One thing you may want to watch out for is their reaction to strangers. While this dog can be very loving at home, the breed tends to regularly not be trusting of new people. This, of course, can be overcome by regular social interaction in their puppy hood. Also, be warned that this breed can get a bit destructive if not given proper playtime and exercise daily. This breed has quite a bit of power behind them when needed and won't hesitate to confront any attackers if they are truly threatened. Their build topped with the agility of the breed makes them a force to be reckoned with for all intruders that may try to enter your home. They are powerful not just with body stature, but also with their jaw strength.
16. Doberman - 245 PSI Dobermans are a medium to a large sized dog which are very popular as a domestic house pet. This breed came to be around during the late 19th Century when a tax collector from Germany named "Karl Friedrich Louis Dobermann" developed the breed. Doberman dog breeds are highly intelligent, alert, and strong by nature. This extremely loyal breed will stick beside their owner no matter the circumstances, and because of this has become a favorite among owners looking for a dog to protect their home and family. Dobermans are very adaptive and when trained they behave gently with little kids and adults alike. They are very muscular in build and have an athletic body type, which gives them extra points in defense. While many Doberman have tails, you can find a significant number in the breed that have knobs or are generally lacking in the tail department. These dogs are extremely strong and have the build and intelligence to prove it. Their jaw is a bone-breaker and this is why they are also used by many different police forces as guard dogs.
17. German Shepherd - 238 PSI The German Shepherd ranks as one of the most commonly found domestic dogs in the world. In countries like the United States of America, the German Shepherd ranks as the second most popular dog breed. This breed was initiallybred as a working class dog in Germany. They are highly intelligent dogs and can often be found being used in roles where rescue missions are being carried out by the local police force or even the military at times. These dogs are hard working, easy to train, and can easily adapt to a new environment. Shepherds are known to be very gentle in nature and extremely calm around children or in family settings. They also make wonderful guard dogs due to their intelligence, loyalty, and overall strength. While these dogs are generally passive, they can become defensive if they or their families are put in danger. Their biteis strong enough to break any bone in the human body or to confront any other animal that may threaten them.
18. Great Dane - 238 PSI The Great Dane, also referred to as the “Apollo of Dogs,” will surely intimidate you with its imposing size. This dog can take up your couch, bed, and the rear seat of your car. However, this elegant and well-muscled canine has a heart as big as he is! Great Danes are sensitive creatures. Their patient, sweet, and loving disposition is an irony to their gargantuan size. These dogs can thrive when they are in contact with their family members. Otherwise, they become mentally unstable and aggressive to boot.
19. American Pit Bull - 235 PSI American Pit Bulls are a medium size dog that can hit between 30 to 90 lbs in weight by the time they are adults. They are a powerful, muscular, and strong breed that is popular throughout the U.S.A. In fact, they currently own the honor of being the strongest dog in their size category. The American Pit Bull was initially bred to guard livestock and watch over them in the event of an attack by predators. While this breed has had a bad rap in recent years, their nature can generally be translated to that of being an overgrown child. These dogs are extremely gentle to those they guard and will only turn vicious in the face of a threat to their families. That being said, this breed will give their own life in defense of those it cares about and is an extremely loyal partner to anyone who is willing to take one into their home. Pit Bulls are a very athletic breed of dog and require you to exercise with them daily. If you miss playing time, do not be too surprised to find some up-turned couch cushions when you return home the next day. They have a wide face with a powerful jaw which is their main defense. They can easily break many hard to damage things if they desired.
20. Labrador Retriever - 230 PSI America's favorite dog for three consecutive decades is the Labrador Retriever. It comes as no surprise as they are energetic, outgoing, goofy, and simply affectionate. But according to Animal Friends, the family favorite is also a culprit of canine attacks and they all seem to dislike delivery workers. Labradors are notable for their soft mouths. They were originally bred as sporting dogs whose special talent includes retrieving their master's game unharmed or unmarked. Later on, they were employed to operate various tasks as they are quite intelligent, gentle, and eager to learn. Aggression, however, has not exited from this breed's genes, only suppressed. True, Labradors rarely cause fatal harm to their victims but you cannot deny that these dogs pack a powerful punch.
21. Dutch Shepherd - 224 PSI Dutch Shepherds are sheep herding dogs, originally used by farmers to keep check of their flocks. The breed is originally from the Netherlands where they were primarily bred as a working-class pet. This particular breed is not too choosey or demanding in nature and has the ability to easily adapt to different habitats around the world. They have similarities to the Belgian Shepherd as well as the German Shepherd in their nature. Dutch Shepherds are said to be one of the most active dog breeds out there. More than anything they love to be involved with their family and sink into play time with your kids. This breed is also known for being very calm, but due to their working-class origins will need plenty of daily exercises to wear them out! This breed is commonly used by police and other security agencies as well, due to their powerful jaw and outstanding intelligence compared to other breeds. They are calm and gentle until danger finds them or their loved ones.
22. Alano Espaniol - 227 PSI Being really big dogs, they come from a line of bull baiting dogs in Europe. They were once the battle dogs off the Middle East. Very serious and reserved, they are not loud and always in your face. They love being at the top and can actually be obedient its owners. They are energetic and acts best with an emergency owner too. Cautious of strangers, they desire a powerful leader of the pack. This leader will be trained to avoid being dangerous. They do better as outside dogs than being inside.
23. Boxer - 230 PSI This breed does have a powerful bite. Originally bred to hunt, the Boxer was essentially "designed" to have power in the jaw. In effect, the head itself was perfected to allow the dog to be a successful hunter. The wide, undershot jaw was thought to give the dog strength to lock onto prey and hold it in place as his humans worked their way over. It is thought that the wide nose and open nostrils were features bred in to allow a Boxer to breathe easier while his mouth was locked into his prey.
24. Chow Chow - 220 PSI This breed of dog originally hailed from northern China. They were bred to be a general purpose working dog and despite their fluffy appearance have overseen the safety of livestock for years. Some records have even indicated that this dog might have helped support Mongolian armies in battle. This dog is built quite sturdily and even has a double coat to protect it from bad weather. These dogs do have a tendency to be aggressive or over-protective as adults, so they will require proper socialization when young. This dog can be a good choice for smaller living arrangements such as in an apartment due to the fact that they have lower amounts of energy than most breeds.
25. Malinois Dog - 195 PSI Malinois is a medium breed of dog that is also known as "Belgian Shepherds". They originated in the French city of Malines, hence the given name of the breed. This breed is recognized for its amazing sense of smell. They are commonly used as detection dogs to help detect explosives and narcotics that otherwise may go unnoticed by most human senses. These dogs are easy to train by nature and have a very high level of intelligence. If you choose to bring one home to your family, expect them to be extremely playful and able to calmly handle your children. This breed was originally bred to become working dogs and this has stayed true to their nature over the years. Many police agencies in the world are using Malinois within their squads still today. In fact, you can find these dogs working everywhere from the United States Secret Service to the Royal Australian Air Force, they are helping to find dangerous explosives and uncover illegal drugs. This breed is very powerful and built to be strong. They also have an impressively strong jaw. An average adult Malinois has a bite force of 195 psi. This means when they bite, 195 pounds of pressure is applied to each square inch. That is more than enough to break one of your bones in one try.
Any bad behavior can be corrected, but it takes time, commitment, patience, understanding and leadership. Depending on the type of aggression, a professional may be needed. Aggression could be indicating an underlying medical issue, and pain can cause a dog to be aggressive. Aggression is one of the most common behavior problems that we see in dogs, and also one of the most alarming. It's always scary when your dog growls at you over his food bowl, tries to bite a visitor in your home, or barks and lunges at other dogs on walks. Unfortunately, there are a number of commonly-held beliefs about aggressive behavior in dogs that are outdated, misleading, or just plain wrong, this can make things very confusing if you have an aggressive dog and aren't sure what to do! Read on for some surprising facts on what really causes aggression and how to effectively treat it.
MYTH: A "good" dog should never growl or snap! As humans, it's easy for us to assume that our dogs should never be aggressive under any circumstances and if they are, it means something is terribly wrong with the dog. But the truth is, growling, snarling, and snapping are all normal ways for dogs to communicate with each other and settle conflicts. Expecting your dog to never do any of these things, no matter what happens, is a bit like expecting a person to go through life without ever having a single disagreement or argument with someone else – not very realistic, in either case! Dogs may growl or snap at each other over resources like toys, chew items, or favored resting places, which can be perfectly normal as long as there are no injuries. Sometimes there are also social conflicts between dogs in the same household, which may be resolved by growling or aggressive posturing. It's more concerning when this behavior is directed towards humans, but can still be reasonable and not a sign of a behavior problem under some circumstances, such as if the dog is injured or in pain, or suddenly startled by something.
MYTH: Most dog aggression is caused by dominance It's a common misconception that when dogs are aggressive towards humans, it's because the dog is trying to be "dominant" and needs to be shown who's boss. This idea was originally based on an outdated behavioral model of interactions between captive wolves, and has since been widely discredited. We now know that social status plays virtually no role in human-directed aggression or any other behavior issue that we see in pet dogs. Instead, most aggressive behavior towards humans is motivated by fear or anxiety. Barking, growling, or even biting is your dog's way of trying to defend itself against something scary or uncomfortable, such as being approached by a stranger, getting a nail trim, or having a valued item taken away. Effective treatment for aggression issues is based on teaching the dog to be comfortable in these situations by using positive reinforcement. Confrontational, dominance-based training techniques such as leash corrections and alpha rolls tend to increase the dog's anxiety and make the problem worse.
MYTH: Dogs with aggression issues need more obedience training Many dog owners assume that if their dog is growling or trying to bite, an obedience class is the best option to try and improve this behavior. It might surprise you to know that many dogs with aggression issues are very well-trained and know lots of obedience commands, but it doesn't make any difference in their aggressive behavior at all. This is because aggression has nothing to do with whether your dog knows how to sit, or lie down, or heel on command - it's an emotional problem, not a training issue. Of course, this doesn't mean that you shouldn't train your dog! Obedience training has many benefits, including helping you build a better relationship with your dog and giving the dog structure in its day-to-day routine. But if your dog is acting aggressive towards you, other people, or other dogs, you should be aware that a basic obedience class is not going to solve the underlying problem. An appointment with a veterinary behaviorist for an evaluation and personalized treatment plan would be a much more effective option.
MYTH: Neutering your dog is the best way to treat or prevent aggression Another common misconception is that testosterone fuels aggressive behavior, and therefore neutering male dogs is a good "quick fix" for aggression problems. In fact, studies have shown that neutering has no effect on most types of aggression in dogs, except for certain types of dog-to-dog aggression - male dogs who don't like other intact males. There are many other health and behavioral benefits to neutering, including eliminating the risk of testicular cancer, reduced risk of prostate issues such as cysts, infections, and prostatic enlargement, and a decreased tendency to urine mark and roam in search of females. These are all very valid reasons that many owners choose to neuter, so by all means, if you have a male dog, you should consider it. Just don't expect it to solve your dog's aggression issues, as it probably won't make much difference.
MYTH: Dogs should always be punished for growling or biting Many owners assume that punishment is necessary to deal with aggressive behavior and unfortunately, poorly educated trainers may also perpetuate this myth by recommending harsh techniques like leash corrections, verbal scolding, "alpha rolls", and even the use of shock collars to punish dogs for unwanted displays of aggression. But in fact, studies have repeatedly shown that these methods are ineffective and often make the problem worse. Remember that growling, snapping, and even biting are your dog's way of communicating that it feels anxious or uncomfortable. Punishing dogs for this behavior does nothing to teach them what we want, and tends to increase their frustration and anxiety, which makes things worse over time, and places the trainer or dog owner at risk of being bitten. Instead, effective treatment for aggression uses positive reinforcement and careful management to set the dog up for success.
MYTH: Once a dog has bitten, euthanasia is the only option Sadly, it's a common belief that once a dog has bitten someone, it can never be trusted again. In fact, aggression is often a very treatable problem with professional help, smart management, and a good training plan, many dogs who have bitten people or other dogs in the past can go on to live safe and happy lives. Every case is different, so it's important to consult with a professional for an in-person evaluation if your dog has bitten someone or you have concerns that this might happen. A veterinary behaviorist can help you determine what is causing the aggression, give a realistic prognosis and risk assessment, and put together a detailed treatment plan to address the problem.
Widely accepted categories of aggression include: Defensive fear-related aggression
Possession aggression resource-guarding
Note - that there is no category for "abuse-related" aggression. Abuse can be one of several causes of fear-related or defensive aggression, but is much less common than the fear-related aggression that results from undersocialization.
YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN
All images on DOGICA® pages used only as illustrations. Find the author of any image with TINEYE
All materials on DOGICA® pages respectfully belong to its legal rights owners
DOGICA® respects your privacy and does not collect any personal data cookies and does not sell any of your private data, but 3rd Party cookies could be collected by various installed here widgets.
The information contained in or provided through DOGICA® site is intended for general consumer understanding and education only and is not intended to be and is not a substitute for professional advice. Use of this site and any information contained on or provided through this site is at your own risk and any information contained on or provided through this site is provided on an "as is" basis without any representations or warranties or pay.