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Homemade Dog Tail Protector ! 500+ Do It Yourself for Dog Projects & Crafts Healthy, Natural, Organic Homemade Natural Dog Flea & Tick Remedies Homemade DIY Recipes for Dog Treats Homemade Healthy Dog Food Recipes Homemade Goodies for Dog & Puppy: Guides, Information, Patterns & Examples Homemade DIY DogHouse Plans & Patterns DIY Car Dog Restraint, Led Collar & Zipper How to Sew Dog Dress, Clothing & Apparel DIY Dog Bowl, Treats Dispenser & Feeder Homemade DIY Dog Travel Accessories How to Make Dog Training Clicker How to Make Dog Muzzle Homemade DIY Dog Beds & Covers DIY Dog Waste & Clean Up Bags Quick & Easy Dog Homemade Toothpaste Homemade Dog Recipes for Kong Toy DIY Homemade Blind Dog Toys DIY Homemade Dog & Puppy Puzzles Homemade DIY Wheelchair for Paralysed Dog How To Make a Homemade Dog Diaper How to Build a Great Dog Park DIY Homemade Dog Ice Sledding Snowmobile How to Make Dog Rump for Auto Homemade DIY Dog & Puppy Toys How to Build Homemade Dog Pool How to Make Missing Dog Flyer Build DIY Dog Crate & Cover Homemade Dog First Aid Kit Homemade Dog Backpack & Carrier How to Make Dog E-Collar Free Self-Made Dog Dress Pattern Homemade Dog Ear Cleaning Solution DIY Dog Odor/Smell Remover DIY Dog Memorial Stone DIY Homemade Dog Window Seat Homemade Dog Paw Wax & Balm How to Build DIY Dog Kennel How to Make a Healthy Dog Ice Cream Homemade Dog Taste Deterrent Homemade Dog Mosquito Repeller Homemade DIY Dog Boots DIY Dog Running Treadmill Homemade Doghouse Heater Homemade Dog Pajamas Homemade Dog Shampoo Homemade Dog Perfume Homemade Dog Toys DIY Dog Bandana Dog Anubis Helmet DIY Dog Stairs Dog Crafts
Your dog's paws and nose can become dry and cracked when exposed to the elements. Apply this wax salve to the bottom of your dog's paw pads or on her nose to soothe the dryness. The oils will be absorbed into the pad to create a layer of protection.
2 tbsp. natural beeswax 2 tbsp. olive or coconut oil 5 drops vitamin E (for extra protection)
Melt the beeswax in a double boiler on the stove or, if using a microwave, in a shallow pan atop a water bath. Add oil when fully melted. Stir. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.
Snow, ice and salt can be very painful when it becomes lodged between paw pads. Instead of stopping frequently to wipe off my dog's feet, We have discovered a safe way to protect paws from cold weather elements. I just apply a coating of homemade dog paw wax before venturing outdoors for a stroll in the snow. This allows us to take longer walks without dealing with the hassle of cold, sensitive or icy paws. Best of all, the natural ingredients make it safe to use on dog's that suffer from allergies. This natural recipe for dry, cracked dog paws is simple to make and takes virtually no time at all. The hardest part is gathering all of the ingredients together.
While you may not initially have all the items in your kitchen, purchasing them and making your own is more economical than buying a commercial brand of dog paw wax. Pet owners whose dogs frequently lick at their paws won't have to worry about them consuming this all-natural remedy. My beagle will eat almost anything, so making my own non-toxic balm seemed like the smartest option. In addition to preventing damaged or chapped dog paws, this moisturizing salve also helps to soften a dog's paw pads. Although some people dress their dog in cute boots or socks to keep paws warm, my beagle is definitely not a fashionista. Dressing him in any type of clothing is like trying to bathe a cat. This easy-to-use canine paw wax works great to protect paws from snow, ice and chemicals, allowing both me and my pet to enjoy a safe, stress-free walk without the doggie boots.
DOG PAW WAX RECIPE
Paw Wax Ingredients 4 tsp. beeswax 4 tbsp. coconut oil 2 tbsp. shea butter 2 oz. avocado or almond oil 1/2 tsp. vitamin E 20 drops of peppermint essential oil (optional)
Use your imagination with paw wax tins, jars or molds to hold your creation. I like to keep some at home in a mason jar for neighborhood walks, and I also have a convenient tin which is ideal for carrying along to the park or on a winter hiking getaway. You can even find decorative holiday tins to fill with homemade dog paw wax for all your canine-loving friends. Use this recipe to fill several 1-oz. tins or pour it all in a larger container for everyday use.
COOKING INSTRUCTIONS In a small pan, melt the beeswax, oils and shea butter over a low heat. Stir mixture frequently to blend oils. When thoroughly melted, transfer liquid into chosen container. After wax has hardened, seal tin or jar and decorate if desired. You want to be sure the mixture is fully cooled and dry before sealing. Forget to do this and you may end up with a funky residue underneath your container lid. Though it is optional, I prefer to add peppermint oil to my recipe. It has a nice, fresh smell and is also an anti-inflammatory and analgesic agent. You can always select a different oil for your dog paw balm, just check to be sure that it's safe for canines. To optimize the benefits of your homemade dog paw wax, be sure to keep the hair between your dog's toes trimmed. Long hair between the pads tends to collect ice and other harmful objects more readily. I can always tell when my beagle's fur is getting too long because he will lick between his paw pads. For those who don't have the time or inclination to make their own paw protection wax, Musher's dog paw wax is the next best alternative. This is the brand I used before I began making my own. Although it does cost more, it is non-allergenic and doesn't contain any harmful ingredients. Whatever method you choose, your dog will tolerate the cold better and appreciate the extra pampering.
If none of the commercially available dog packs strikes your fancy or if they're too expensive, try putting together your own using the pattern and directions provided here. Many dog owners love hiking with their pets but carrying enough gear for you and your dog can get heavy.
Thus, many owners purchase backpacks for their dogs and allow them to carry small items such as collapsible water bowls and food. Dogs are happy to have an additional job - they just need to become used to the backpack when it is empty and gradually build up to carrying items on a long walk. These packs can be made relatively easily.
1. Purchase a child's backpack or two equally sized bumbags or small carrying bags as well as additional nylon straps to serve as the foundation for the backpack. Some dogs will do better with a pack on their back, while some may prefer evenly sized packs on each side of the back.
2. If you chose a child's backpack, first size the pack with the arm straps, placing it on your dog just like you would a child. If you chose two evenly sized carrying bags, decide how they would best sit on the dog, considering its range of movement and the height of the bags from the ground.
3. Measure and fit the nylon strips. If you chose a child's backpack, you need to add a strap that will go across the dog's stomach and secure the pack. Some children's packs include these straps. If not, measure across the dog's belly and sew on the strap with a clasp. If you chose the two packs, you will need two or three nylon straps across the dog's back, each sewn to the two packs and two straps underneath your dog's belly, to secure the packs. The two underneath the belly will need clasps sewn on. Space the straps evenly to ensure the best comfort for your dog.
4. Practice allowing the dog to carry an empty pack around the house. Let it get used to the feel and weight on walks before adding additional weight. Gradually, increase the amount of weight and distance until your dog is ready to hike.
Dog packs are insanely overpriced. A dog pack is basically two fanny packs attached to a dog harness. Why not make your own? You can reuse existing material instead of making something new. This pack is greener, cheaper and totally awesome.
1. You can use ANY purse/backpack in ANY SIZE that is sturdy enough to hold itself up. I simply used this because I already had it at home though I plan to make a larger one.
2. This item is meant to be NO SEW. You have the option to use a large industrial needle and thread where I instead drilled holes and used twisty ties. I wanted to create this animal friendly as small animals can ingest thread and get sick/die from it. I also wanted it to be something anyone could make and shorten the time down by using twisty ties, which it does a lot!
Step 1: Gathering Materials Here's what you will need to complete this project:
1. A sturdy purse/backback. 2. Chicken wire, galvanized wire, mesh wire 3. Wire cutters. 4. Materal. 5.Scissors. 6.Twisty ties. 7. A drill 8.Permanent marker. 9. Yarn/ribbon/thread. 10. Backpack straps. Skip if you are using a backpack.
You may not have all of these things, but you should be able to find an old purse/backpack at a thrift store or maybe from a friend. You can use old clothing for the material just cut it up. The backpack straps can be cut off an old backpack found at home or at thrift shop.
Step 2: Cut your wire and mark. 1. Cut your wire to the size you would like as the front of your backpack.
2. Place your wire on top of your purse/backpack and mark about a half inch in with your permanent marker to leave space for tieing. You want your hole to be at least half an inch smaller on each side than the wire you have cut.
Step 3: Cut your hole! Now that you have your bag marked it's time to cut your hole. I recommend making your first hole in the MIDDLE of where you have lined to cut. You can make this hole by sliding your scissors down to the base to make the cut. DO NOT MAKE A LARGE CUT! Only cut enough to make a small hole that you scissors can fit back into to cut along your lines.
Step 4: Insert wire and add twisty ties. It's time to insert your wire. You can do this in a multitude of ways, but I suggest that if you wire has sharp edges that you cover them. I did this by inserting my wire where a pocket used to be. It slid perfectly into place. However, you make not have as much luck with the bag that you have chosen. If you do not have this option you can cover the ends of your wire by cutting a long piece of material and wrapping it around the edges. You can also attach your wire to the front or back or your bag.
WARNING! Make sure all sharp edges are covered to protect your small animals!!!
Here's how to attach the wire:
1. Place your wire in position.
2. Drill small holes slightly above the opening of your hole.
3. Make sure you twisty ties tighten on THE INSIDE. Otherwise you will end up with a bulky look on the outside.
Step 5: The backpack straps. (Skip this step if you are already using a backpack). Since you have already learned how to poke/drill holes to attach the wiring this part should be pretty easy. Simply take your backpack straps and make two holes horizontally in the bottom of each end. Then make your holes in your purse and twisty tie the straps on!
Step 6: Covering up the twisty ties and getting loopy. Well now it seems like you are done, but you have got this ugly looking front for a pet carrier backpack and the material is just TOO THICK to sew anything onto. Glue won't work so well either as you would end up with a bumpy look.
1. Cut 4 strips of fabric to the measurements of your opening.
2. Place your first piece of fabric on top of the "mess" of twisty ties.
3. Get your yarn/ribbon/thread to tie on the fabric. Simply loop your yarn through and make a knot securing it.
4. Now we are ready to get loopy!
5. Start weaving your yarn around your piece of fabric until you get to the end. Knot off. Repeat 3 more times.
Step 7: Cut a piece of material. Last step! Just cut a small piece of fabric and insert it into your new pet carrier backpack! I did not attach mine because rats tend to pee on everything to mark their territory and I wanted to be able to take it out to wash it. NOTE: Make sure you get any left over materials of "fuzz" out of the purse/backpack so your pet doesn't ingest it.
Alright, well that's it! We are done. Here is your new small pet backpack carrier. For food or water you can bring a small bowl with you and a water bottle to pour water in it. Apples are a great source of food AND water for your small pet.
When their best furry friends can no longer walk because of an accident or old age, dog owners can suffer as much as their canine companions. Purchasing a wheelchair for your dog can cost $300 to $1,000. Fortunately, you can make one that's both easy on his body and your wallet.
SUPPLIES NEEDED PVC or steel pipe 90-degree angle fittings and T's Pipe glue Pipe cutter Welder (if using steel pipe) Harness rings (if using steel pipe) Dog harness Bicycle or baby carriage wheels Drill Dowels or bolts Pipe insulation Cloth bandage
Prepare to Build Measure the length of your dog's back, the height from the ground to the top of his shoulder, his chest girth, the distance from his chest to the floor and the distance from his groin to the floor, according to the article "Measuring Tips, Tricks, and Info," on the K-9 Cart Company website. Cut six pieces of pipe according to your dog's measurements: two side rails, two shorter pieces that will attach to the back of the side rails vertically and two rails that will connect the side pieces in the back.
Use 1/2" PVC pipe for small dogs, according to the "New Cart" video on the Home Healthcare: How to Make a Dog Wheelchair website. Use 5/8" steel pipe for large dogs, as shown in the article entitled, "Kid John's Large Dog Cart" on the Handicapped Pets website. Get two appropriate-sized wheels for your dog's chair, one for each side. Wheels range from 8 to 24 inches. Add a third wheel between the two rear wheels for additional support. Use a small canvas strap for a front harness and another around the girth for your small dog, as shown on the Home Healthcare video, or purchase a harness from a pet shop. Use multiple harnesses to give enough support to a large dog.
Build the Wheelchair Connect the side rails to the back vertical pieces using the 90-degree angles. Attach the back horizontal rails to the vertical rails using the T's, as shown on the Home Healthcare video. Drill a hole the bottom corners of the frame and attach one wheel on each side using 3/8" dowels, or larger bolts for a big-dog chair. Glue it together once you are sure your dog is comfortable. Add additional frames for dogs that require extra support. Wrap the back rails in water pipe insulation, and cover them with a cloth bandage for comfort. Wrap the harness over the PVC and attach with adhesive, snaps or safety pins, for small dogs. Weld metal harness rings to the bottom of the side railings and wrap the harness straps around them, for large dogs. Put your dog in the wheelchair and watch him go!
Tips & Warnings! Overlap two different sizes of pipe so that the smaller pipe slides back and forth inside the larger pipe for easy adjusting. Experiment with wheel placement relative to the dog's hind legs for the best support possible. Never try to support a dog's weight on a single chest harness.
This multipurpose sled is a fun way to exercise high-energy dogs in the winter, have a friend tote you around behind a snowmobile, proper safety gear encouraged, or just have the coolest sled at the slope. All you need is a pair of ski's, some supplies, and some ingenuity. Problem: I recently adopted a second Husky, and our budget is tight. The dogs are confined to our small apartment and we do not have 24/7 access to a fenced in area. I need fun a way for them to get out and burn off some extra energy during the winter months.
RECOMMENDED MATERIALS & TOOLS
This project took me about two weeks of trial and error to complete. I spent about $85 total in materials. Most of which I got at Home Depot. When I was looking to purchase a new traditional dog sled, the average price I was finding was around the $300-$350 mark (shipping included). This is a great option for beginners who are looking to get into dog sledding, without breaking the bank.
Dog beds are a must in every room so Lucy can snooze and lounge around wherever she wants. But it is so hard to find a stylish dog bed cover that coordinates with my own decor. We have had this Orvis bean bag bed for years. I'm talking over a decade! A few months ago it got a little tiny hole in the cover, most likely from Lucy rearranging it to the perfect spot it's a process! and over time that little hole got bigger and bigger. Finally I decided to figure out how to make a stylish dog bed cover for it since the insides were still in good condition.
Most sewing projects begin at my favorite local fabric store, Loom. I go in looking for a button or ribbon, and I leave with yards of various fabrics and ideas for new projects! That's exactly what happened this time. I had no intention of buying dog bed fabric that day, but they had this beautiful palm leaf print in a durable outdoor fabric and I couldn't resist! I always have sewing odds and ends at home, so when I went digging around I found cording to make piping, lime green leopard print cotton and a chunky silver zipper, fun accents for the palm leaf print! Keep reading to see how I put it all together in just 1 night.
Dog pajamas are fun to make and provide a dog with extra warmth during cold weather. In materials ranging from cozy thermal knits to plush fleece, PJs can be tailored to your pooch's preferences and even adorned with decorative appliques or embroidery. Put your dog's comfort first and have fun with the style, playing with bright colors or dreamy prints.
Measure the pet for whom you will create an outfit. Get the width and length of the body of the dog. Not all dogs feel comfortable wearing clothing on their back legs, so consider whether you are making a jumpsuit style piece or a versatile nightshirt without any restriction of the legs. If the outfit will cover the legs of the dog, measure the width and length of the dog's legs. You may also purchase a sewing pattern for pet clothes at a craft or sewing store.
Go to a craft or sewing store to find fabric. Pick a soft fabric that will be comfortable against your dog's skin. Purchase fabric based on a pattern size or the measurements of your pet. Get a bit of extra fabric to ensure you will have enough material even if sewing mistakes occur. Also, purchase thread that matches the color of the fabric.
Organize all items needed near the sewing machine so your project goes smoothly. Test the sewing machine on a scrap of fabric to ensure it is working properly.
Cut out the fabric for the dog pajamas with a pattern or according to the measurements of your pet. Then, turn the fabric inside out and pin the two main pieces for the body of the outfit together with straight pins. Sew the body of the outfit together; when done sewing, carefully remove all of the straight pins.
Sew the legs of the pajamas if they will be used with the outfit. First, turn the fabric inside out and hold the seam shut with straight pins. Then, sew the seam for the leg and remove all of the straight pins. Attach the leg to the body of the outfit with sewing snaps. Continue on until you have sewn all four legs for the outfit. Attach all of the legs to the outfit with snaps. Iron the pajamas to eliminate wrinkles and to soften the fabric.
DOG PAJAMAS SEWING GUIDE Dressing your dog may seem unnecessary, but some dogs actually benefit from warm items such as pajamas. Small, short-haired breeds and elderly, sick dogs often need pajamas in the winter time to ward off the chills. Making dog pajamas from old baby clothes is a simple, cost-effective way to keep your canine companion warm and dry.
Determine what size baby clothes will fit your dog. Small breeds, such as Chihuahuas and Yorkshire terriers, should fit into 0-3 month clothes. Larger dogs, including Italian greyhounds and whippets will need larger outfits. If you are unsure of what size to buy, measure around your dog's neck, from her neck to the base of her tail, and around her chest and then compare these measurements to the baby pajamas for a proper fit.
Slip the pajamas over the dog, with the zipper or buttons running along the dog's belly. Slide her feet through the arm and leg holes, and fasten the pajamas. Draw a small "X" over her tail, and remove the pajamas.
Cut a small circle around the "X" with a pair of sharp scissors. The hole should be just big enough to pull the dog's tail through, so start with a small hole and enlarge it slowly if necessary.
Snip off the feet of the pajamas. This allows your dog's feet to come in contact with the ground, providing a more secure walking surface. If the sleeves have hand guards on them, cut them off to prevent your dog from snagging a toenail as she walks.
Put the pajamas back on the dog to check for proper fit. Slide the tail gently through the hole and place each foot through the proper opening. Button the pajamas up and reward the dog with a treat for being so patient. If your dog fights or tries to tear off the garment, pet and praise her when she ignores the pajamas. It will take time, but eventually she will forget she's even wearing them. Wash your dog's pajamas frequently to ward off excess odors. Use a gentle or pet-safe detergent to prevent skin irritation.
Items you will need
Long-sleeved baby pajamas Marker Scissors Dog treats :)
SICKS & STONES DOG BOOTS Buying or fabricating boots is the easy part. Getting them to stay on... in extremely wet conditions. The key to application is the tape. I use two different kinds of tape: duct tape and cloth athletic tape. Stay away from the bargain bin and buy the best tape you can find. It's not worth saving a few bucks when a roll will last most of a season. Industrial grade duct tape seems to work best and I like grey better than other colors.
With boots and tape at hand, you are ready to begin. First, tear off a length of cloth tape long enough to go around the dog's leg twice, about 6 inches. Wrap this tape just under the accessory pad on the front paws and about 3' up the leg on the back. You will tape to this layer, thereby avoiding pulling the dog's hair out when you remove the boots. The athletic tape should be snug enough to establish a good bond with the hair, but not so tight that it restricts circulation. My rule of thumb is to wrap lightly enough that a round toothpick can be easily inserted, then removed between the tape and the dog's leg.
Next, cut a length of duct tape long enough to go around the leg at least 3 times and tear it lengthwise into two strips of equal width. You will use one half-width strip for each boot. Slip the boot over the foot and position it with the top of the boot about below the top of the cloth tape. Fold the front flap of the boot forward out of the way and make one wrap around the leg and the back flap. Move the front flap back into position and continue wrapping. When you get to the end of the tape, fold over about to make it easier to remove.
Finally, cut a length of duct tape long enough to go around the leg 1-1/2 times. Wrap this even with the top of the cloth tape and you're through. Once you and your dog get accustomed to the drill, you will be able to boot up in less than 5 minutes. Boots should be removed as soon as the dog is finished for the day.
Step 1 - wrap cloth tape around dog's leg, not too tight
Step 2 - Use strip of duct tape to secure boot. Wrap once around back flap and leg, then wrap remaining tape around front and back flaps.
Step 3 - Fold over the last 1/4" of tape to aid in removal.
Step 4 - Wrap full width duct tape around the whole thing.
10 MINUTE DOG BOOTS
Step 1: Materials and tools
1. You will need several feet of a suitable material, I used black fleece which sells locally for about $6 per meter.
2. I used 4 - 2 inch circles of suede that I had from a previous project. Any durable material will work from canvas to cloth backed vinyl, Just make sure that it will not be slippery in the snow and on the ice.
3. Approximately 4 - 6 inch strips of double sided Velcro. I have found that this offers the best retention of the boot.
You will also need a sewing machine capable of sewing light leather and Velcro. Only if you have chosen these materials. You may have to use canvas or denim of your machine cannot handle the materials.
Standard sewing scissors and heavy duty thread are also required.
A pencil and a regular sheet of paper are also needed.
Step 2: Create the Pattern
It is best to have the boots fit your dogs feet snugly but not tightly. To do this you will have to trace one of yours dogs feet. The front foot is usually the easiest to trace. After the trace is complete you will need to draw a rough outline which is greater than the size of the foot. This is shown in the third and forth pictures. The total length of the boot is just short of the your dogs rear leg joint. In my dog's case that is about 6 inches. The top part of the boot has a slight flare outward, this helps in putting the boot on your dog. Using scissors you will now cut the pattern out from the full sheet.
Step 3: Prepare the Materials
The pattern in only half of the boot, you will need to fold your material and place the pattern along the fold near the "toe" end of the boot ans shown in the first picture. Carefully cat the pattern out of the material creating a "bow-tie" shape. You will need to do this for each boot that your dog needs. Mine needed 4.
You will need to create a wear pad for the bottom of the boot for both traction and boot life. The wear pad should be about the same size as the dog's foot, It can be larger but this is not necessary. I used an old roll of electrical tape as a pattern to cut out the circles of suede material, Again I did this 4 times. Lastly you will need to cut 4 pieces of the Velcro material that is a least 2 times the width if the narrow part of the pattern about 1 inch below the flare at the top.
Mine were about 6 inches in length. This is to fasten the boot. The last picture is the layout before sewing.
Since the paw protectors are relatively small, they may fall off in deep snow, not to be found until spring. They also have a tendency to twist while on the hound's foot. If you find this annoying, try making full winter boots. The ones pictured here have a decorative fur trim to really make a fashion statement. Each set of winter boots takes 30 to 60 minutes to make, depending upon materials and embellishments.
To make the winter boots, follow the paw protector instructions, but make the shapes for the front feet 12-1/2" tall (rather than 7-1/2"). For best results, use two strips of hook and loop tape: one 4-1/2" from the toe - so it is just above the first joint, and one 7" from the toe, so it is just above the second joint. For the back paws, the shapes should be 16-1/2" tall with the hook and loop tape 4-1/2" and 12"from the toe.
DIY HOMEMADE DOG POOLS This material proudly presented by WWW.HEALTHYPAWS PETINSURANCE.COM
Build a DIY Dog Pool to Keep Pups Cool The dog days of summer are here, and with them comes scorching heat through most of the country. To avoid heat stroke in dogs, always provide your pup with a way to cool off. Ice packs, homemade paw-sicles, and cooling swamp vests are all effective ways of cooling down. For a more permanent solution, consider installing a dog pool! A dog-friendly backyard is easier and cheaper than most pet parents imagine, especially if you're a DIY guru. Depending on the design of your yard and aesthetic preferences, the cost and size of a dog pool can vary widely. Check out our top picks for DIY dog pools, or head over to our Pinterest for more ideas!
1. Cinder Block Pool The easiest of the self-created dog pools, all you need is a plastic kiddie pool, the hard plastic, not an inflatable one and some cinder blocks of your choosing. Dig down relative to the depth of your plastic pool, then increase the area's diameter to include your cinder block border. Arrange the blocks in a decorative pattern and fill crevices with sand or dog-friendly ground cover plants.
Cost: $200 (150 blocks) + $10 (45 * 13" pool) + $8 (paver sand) = $214 for your very own dog swimming pool!
2. Bone-Shaped Pool Unfortunately, both the pool and deck shown are pre-made products, sold by One Dog One Bone. Pet parents with carpentry skills will find the pool's cypress-wood deck no problem to recreate. Even those who purchase the ready-made deck will find it requires a little DIY to bold the sides together and plenty more to stain the wood. One Dog One Bone's original deck is made of cypress, but any wood cut to length will do, the DIY dog pool shown uses cedar.
Cost to DIY: $75 (cedar lumber) + $30 (deck sealant/stain) + $399 (bone pool) = $504 to DIY this bone-shaped dog pool.
3. Fire Hydrant Water Feature Many of the DIY dog pools use the pre-made bone-shaped pool, but it's no sweat to swap in a traditional round or rectangular pool, and may even save you time cutting lumber! A similar fire hydrant water feature is available through Dog-On-It-Parks, misting water for a cool $1,102. For the DIY pet parent, fire hydrants are available on eBay from $150 to 200. The project is so popular that eBay released its own handy guide to making a fire hydrant fountain for pets. From here, the process is simple, consult one of the numerous guides on how to make a fountain.
Cost: $150 (fire hydrant) + $50 (pump kit) = $200 for this dog pool decoration.
4. HOMEMADE DOG POOL
HOW TO BUILD DOG PARK This information is proudly presented by WWW.DOGICA.COM
Start Walkin' and Talkin' The best way to start a dog park or run in your neighborhood is to go out and talk to people who have dogs in hand. If they are out walking their dogs, chances are they would enjoy the chance to discuss a dog run in the community with you. Don't be shy; ask if they would like to join a committee. Grab a few people - you don't need a lot, just 5 or 10 folks who are passionate and set up a time to meet at someone's house to discuss the next step.
Next Step: Where Should It Be? You and your new group will need to ascertain a spot for the dog park. Most small dog parks are no bigger than an acre. Once you have nominated a site, it helps to let the community know of your plans. Just in case your newly picked spot interferes with a neighbor's rose garden. It also helps to get petitions signed. Try posting notices about the proposed dog park in pet stores, grooming shops, animal clinics and grocery stores. Write or email local newspapers to see if they could do a small story about the idea to gain more public awareness. After a while, you should have enough names to submit a letter and all of your signed petitions to your local parks and recreations department. You will need to write a clear outline about the need for the dog park. It helps if you focus more on how the park will benefit the community as a whole instead of how it will benefit the dogs. The parks department will then be able to tell you if the area you have selected is available to you and your group, or they may suggest another area for you to consider.
Who Pays? Once the area is designated as a place to support a dog park, you will need to seek funds to build and prepare it. Funds can either be acquired through your local government or by private contributions. Either way, your city will probably insist you have the following amenities to make the park safe and usable:
A fence with double-gated entry and exit Nearby parking Handicap accessible Water fountains for both dogs and owners Seating Shaded areas Poop bag dispensers Trash cans
Scooping the Poop You will want to immediately organize a dog park council or group to help maintain and monitor the park. The city will also need to know who to call in the event there are issues or other concerns from neighbors or other members of the community. This council will also be responsible for developing the rules of the park, cleaning up after hours, mowing the grass, mending fences, etc. You'll also be responsible for setting up meetings with your city officials to assess the park's success and what needs to be improved.
Is It Worth It? After reading all of this, you are probably asking yourself if all this effort is really worth it so that a bunch of mutts can run around for an hour everyday. The answer is "Of course!" Dogs need a lot of exercise and a dog park is the perfect place to let them roam free and find playmates. It's also a perfect place for you to relax, read a book and know that your dog isn't going anywhere. And, in case you need further convincing, a dog park is also a great place to meet new people and make new friends. So, go on out there and form a committee today. Your dog will thank you for it later!
ANUBIS STARGATE HELMET: DIY HOMEMADE GUIDE This article is proudly presented by WWW.GANGEEK STYLE.COM
DIY toys are suitable for individuals who are looking to cut extra costs by making use of what can be found around the house to design and create dog toys. Apart from being cheaper, DIY is also an amazing way to recycle old materials instead of throwing them away. All in all, there are several toy designs for blind dogs that you can be able to design just by sitting down for a few minutes. Also, with DIY you can always decide to get a little bit creative without exhausting your resources or straining your budget. All in all, here are some DIY Toy designs that you should know.
Jiggle balls Apart from purchasing toys for your visually impaired dog, you can alternatively decide to create your homemade toys that will in turn allow you to save a little bit of money. One such toy is the Jiggle Ball which is usually designed in a manner that it can produce noise. When designing the jiggle ball, you will be required to poke a small hall into an old tennis ball. Through the hall, you will insert a small and simple metal ball.
So as to keep the dog interested, you can also insert a few treats through the hole. For the visually impaired dogs and puppies, the scent emitted by the treat inside the ball will allow them to find the toy effectively without straining too much. Finally, you will be expected to reseal the openings with some stitches so that the jiggle ball will not come out very easily.
Sock Ball Toy Sock Ball Toys are also very easy to design and are suitable for all kinds of dogs. When designing a sock ball toy, you will be required to take an old sock then stuff it, with a tennis ball. But before, stuffing the ball inside the socks, you should ensure the socks is clean because your pet is going to have the toy in his or her mouth most of the time. Also, the scent of socks might confuse the dog, and he or she may start to chew other socks or shoes that may be in the house. After inserting the ball into the socks, you can then decide to get creative with the design since you will be designing this socks for a visually impaired dog. You can decide to insert treats into the socks, or you can also insert a jiggle ball inside the sock ball.
PATTERNS FOR DOG COSTUMES, APPAREL & CLOTHES This article is proudly presented by
FREE DOG DRESS PATTERN HOW TO MAKE DOG CLOTHES This article is proudly presented by JENNY KITCHENS
This free dog dress pattern was originally designed for a Chihuahua, but can be modified to fit larger breeds. See Jenny Kitchens' Etsy store for her dog dresses at her website listed below.
Materials and Tools: DOWNLOAD DOG DRESS SKIRT PATTERN DOWNLOAD DOG DRESS BODY PATTERN Soft measuring tape 1/2-yard soft cotton patterned fabric - amount of fabric will vary depending on dog's size 1/2-yard lightweight standard interfacing 4" to 5" strip of 1" wide white sewable Velcro Decorative buttons, Bows or Appliques Thread Fabric shears Pins
1. Resize the pattern. This part may be difficult if your dog is not extra small, but there are some ways around it. The dress pattern was originally designed to fit a Chihuahua with a 14-1/2" chest. If you print the current pattern at full size, 100 percent, it will fit a dog with a 12-14 inch chest. Note: For a dog much larger than this, the skirt pattern piece won't fit on a standard 8-1/2" x 11" page. For a dog with a chest larger than 12 inches neither piece will fit on a page.
Options: Take the printed pattern to a print shop and ask them to resize it on larger paper OR Download the images to your computer and open them in a graphics or photo editor. Resize the patterns to the proper size. Increase the size of each pattern piece accordingly.
2. Cut two fabric pieces on the fold for the skirt pattern. Cut two fabric pieces on the fold for the bodice pattern. Bodice pieces should be two inches larger than the dog's chest.
3. Place the two bodice pieces right sides together with interfacing on the bottom. Sew along the lines indicated using a 1/2" seam. Note: Do not sew the bottom edge where no lines are present. Leave it open so that you can turn the bodice right side out to attach the skirt.
4. Once the bodice is sewn together, clip each corner where the neck and the waist meet to ensure that the seam will lay flat once it is top-stitched.
5. Turn the bodice right side out, making sure that the corners are square (a dull pointed object such as a chopstick can be used).
6. Place the two skirt pieces right-sides-together and sew along the lines indicated. Do not sew the top edge where no lines are present; this is the gather line.
7. The skirt has a hemline and a gather line. Hem the skirt first along the dotted line using a 1/2-inch seam.
8. Using scissors, clip along the bottom edge of the skirt every 1/2-inch before turning it right side out.
9. Next, sew the gather line, but do not gather the last inch on both sides. Gather it just enough so that it fits into the bodice.
10. Attach the bodice to the skirt. To hide the seams on the inside of the dress, pin your gathered skirt between the two layers and sew in place.
11. Embellish with buttons, bows or appliques. Tip: It is recommended that you topstitch the dress once it's completed for a more finished look
12. Attach two 2-1/2" pieces of Velcro by sewing them onto the neck and waist pieces of the bodice